Brooks Falls
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Brooks Falls is a waterfall located within
Katmai National Park and Preserve Katmai National Park and Preserve is an American national park and preserve in southwest Alaska, notable for the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes and for its brown bears. The park and preserve encompass , which is between the sizes of Connecticut ...
in Alaska. Located on the Brooks River a mile and a half (2.4 km) from
Brooks Lake Brooks Lake is a lake in Wright County, in the U.S. state of Minnesota. Brooks Lake was named for a pioneer settler. See also *List of lakes in Minnesota This is a list of lakes of Minnesota. Although promoted as the "Land of 10,000 Lakes", ...
and an equal distance from Naknek Lake, the falls are famous for watching
salmon Salmon () is the common name for several commercially important species of euryhaline ray-finned fish from the family Salmonidae, which are native to tributaries of the North Atlantic (genus '' Salmo'') and North Pacific (genus '' Onco ...
leap over the 6 foot (1.8 m) falls to get to their Brooks Lake spawning grounds. Consequently, large populations of
brown bears The Brown Bears are the sports teams that represent Brown University, an American university located in Providence, Rhode Island. The Bears are part of the Ivy League conference. Brown's mascot is Bruno. Both the men's and women's teams share th ...
are attracted to feed on the spawning salmon. Brown bears usually congregate at the falls in July through early September, and many well-known photos of bears have been taken there. July witnesses the greatest concentrations of bears of any month at the falls; up to 25 bears have been seen at one time at Brooks Falls in that month. In September, a smaller number of bears (maximum about 18 at one time) can be seen at the falls to feast on the later salmon runs.


History

Before the 1950s, when
Brooks Camp Brooks Camp is a visitor attraction and archeological site in Katmai National Park and Preserve, noted for its opportunities for visitors to observe Alaskan brown bears catching fish in the falls of the Brooks River during salmon spawning season. ...
was opened, there were fewer bears at the falls than there are today, and no more than 6-7 bears could be observed at one time. Since hunting was allowed, bear numbers were lower and salmon and sport fishing was the primary attraction to the falls. Now, with hunting banned and viewing controlled, bear numbers have boomed to quadruple their former number. The site's archaeological human remnants date back some 9,000 years, some of the oldest human remains in North America. Since the site is not far from the
Bering Land Bridge Beringia is defined today as the land and maritime area bounded on the west by the Lena River in Russia; on the east by the Mackenzie River in Canada; on the north by 72 degrees north latitude in the Chukchi Sea; and on the south by the tip of ...
, it is quite possible that some of the first humans from Russia made villages here. Native Americans still continue to harvest food caches and live their own ways of life at a site not far from the falls known as the
Old Savonoski Site The Old Savonoski Site is the former site of a native village in Lake and Peninsula Borough, Alaska, that was buried by ash in the June 1912 eruption of the Novarupta Volcano. The site is located near the confluence of the Savonoski and Ukak R ...
. Despite all the old artifacts near the falls, most attention continues to focus on the bears and salmon; it is regular to find up to ten bears at the falls at one time. As many as 43 bears have been sighted at the falls in a single day.


Fish Ladder and Weir

In 1921, Kidawik Creek was renamed Brooks River, and Toms Lake renamed Brooks Lake. A controversial "stream improvement" was implemented in 1920 by the
United States Bureau of Fisheries United may refer to: Places * United, Pennsylvania, an unincorporated community * United, West Virginia, an unincorporated community Arts and entertainment Films * ''United'' (2003 film), a Norwegian film * ''United'' (2011 film), a BBC Two fi ...
, when they cut a 10 foot gap on the south bank of the river, which was widened to 15 feet the next year. Between 1948 and 1950, the bureau, by then reorganized into the
United States Department of the Interior The United States Department of the Interior (DOI) is one of the executive departments of the U.S. federal government headquartered at the Main Interior Building, located at 1849 C Street NW in Washington, D.C. It is responsible for the ma ...
′s Fish and Wildlife Service (later the
United States Fish and Wildlife Service The United States Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS or FWS) is an agency within the United States Department of the Interior dedicated to the management of fish, wildlife, and natural habitats. The mission of the agency is "working with othe ...
), built a
fish ladder A fish ladder, also known as a fishway, fish pass, fish steps, or fish cannon is a structure on or around artificial and natural barriers (such as dams, locks and waterfalls) to facilitate diadromous fishes' natural migration as well as move ...
in the gap as part of its "landscape improvements." In 1974, the NPS closed the ladder and in 1986, placed sandbags to block salmon access. The
Alaska Department of Fish and Game The Alaska Department of Fish and Game (ADF&G) is a department within the government of Alaska. ADF&G's mission is to protect, maintain, and improve the fish, game, and aquatic plant resources of the state, and manage their use and development in ...
opposed a 1987 NPS proposal to dismantle the ladder, and the structure remains, though not used. Similarly, a seasonal
weir A weir or low head dam is a barrier across the width of a river that alters the flow characteristics of water and usually results in a change in the height of the river level. Weirs are also used to control the flow of water for outlets of l ...
for counting salmon was constructed in 1940 by the bureau, across the outlet of Brooks Lake at Brooks River. This was replaced by a permanent one in 1952. The bureau, renamed the
National Marine Fisheries Service The National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS), informally known as NOAA Fisheries, is a United States federal agency within the U.S. Department of Commerce's National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) that is responsible for the stew ...
, transferred ownership of the weir to the NPS in 1978.


See also

*
Upward Sun River site The Upward Sun River site, or Xaasaa Na’, is a Late Pleistocene archaeological site associated with the Paleo-Arctic tradition, located in the Tanana River Valley, Alaska. Dated to around 11,500 BP, Upward Sun River is the site of the oldest ...

EXPLORE.org livecam
August 2021


References


External links



{{coord, 58.555, -155.791, type:landmark_region:US-AK, display=title Geography of Lake and Peninsula Borough, Alaska Katmai National Park and Preserve Tourist attractions in Lake and Peninsula Borough, Alaska Waterfalls of Alaska Oldest human remains in the Americas