Bjeshkët e Nemuna
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The Accursed Mountains ( sq, Bjeshkët e Nemuna; sh-Cyrl-Latn, Проклетије, Prokletije, ; both translated as "Cursed Mountains"), also known as the Albanian Alps ( sq, Alpet Shqiptare), are a mountain group in the western part of the
Balkans The Balkans ( ), also known as the Balkan Peninsula, is a geographical area in southeastern Europe with various geographical and historical definitions. The region takes its name from the Balkan Mountains that stretch throughout the who ...
. It is the southernmost subrange of the Dinaric Alps range (Dinarides), extending from northern
Albania Albania ( ; sq, Shqipëri or ), or , also or . officially the Republic of Albania ( sq, Republika e Shqipërisë), is a country in Southeastern Europe. It is located on the Adriatic and Ionian Seas within the Mediterranean Sea and share ...
to southern
Kosovo Kosovo ( sq, Kosova or ; sr-Cyrl, Косово ), officially the Republic of Kosovo ( sq, Republika e Kosovës, links=no; sr, Република Косово, Republika Kosovo, links=no), is a international recognition of Kosovo, partiall ...
and northeastern
Montenegro ) , image_map = Europe-Montenegro.svg , map_caption = , image_map2 = , capital = Podgorica , coordinates = , largest_city = capital , official_languages = ...
. Maja Jezercë, standing at , is the highest point of the Accursed Mountains and of all Dinaric Alps, and the fifth highest peak in Albania. The highest peak in Montenegro, Zla Kolata at and the second-highest in Kosovo,
Gjeravica Gjeravica or Đeravica ( sq, Gjeravica; sr-cyr, Ђеравица) is the second-highest mountain peak in the Accursed Mountains mountain range and the Dinaric Alps chain, after Maja Jezercë. It is the second-highest mountain in Kosovo,. It has ...
at are also part of the range. One of the southernmost glacial masses in Europe was discovered in the Albanian part of the range in 2009.


Name

Ptolemy Claudius Ptolemy (; grc-gre, Πτολεμαῖος, ; la, Claudius Ptolemaeus; AD) was a mathematician, astronomer, astrologer, geographer, and music theorist, who wrote about a dozen scientific treatises, three of which were of importanc ...
mentioned , which has been connected to the Accursed Mountains. Bertiscus lives on artificially in the form ''bertiscae'' in the scientific names for endemic species that have their '' locus classicus'' in the mountains, such as '' Valeriana bertiscae'', '' Crepis bertiscae'' and '' Iris bertiscae''. Both in
Serbo-Croatian Serbo-Croatian () – also called Serbo-Croat (), Serbo-Croat-Bosnian (SCB), Bosnian-Croatian-Serbian (BCS), and Bosnian-Croatian-Montenegrin-Serbian (BCMS) – is a South Slavic language and the primary language of Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia an ...
() and in Albanian mean "the accursed (mountains)", possibly because they are perceived as insurmountable and wild. The mountain range is also known as the , meaning "Albanian Alps".


Location and relief

The Accursed Mountains, the southernmost part of the Dinaric Alps, stretch more than from Lake Skadar along the Montenegrin–Albanian border in the southwest to
Kosovo Kosovo ( sq, Kosova or ; sr-Cyrl, Косово ), officially the Republic of Kosovo ( sq, Republika e Kosovës, links=no; sr, Република Косово, Republika Kosovo, links=no), is a international recognition of Kosovo, partiall ...
in the northeast. These points are at 42°45' and 42°15' N in the Mediterranean zone of the western
Balkan Peninsula The Balkans ( ), also known as the Balkan Peninsula, is a geographical area in southeastern Europe with various geographical and historical definitions. The region takes its name from the Balkan Mountains that stretch throughout the who ...
. Akademia e Shkencave e RPSSH: ''Fjalor enciklopedik shqiptar'', Tirana 1985 und ''Gjeografia fizike e Shqipërisë'', Tirana 1990 The southern boundary of the Accursed Mountains is found at the river Drin and its tributary Valbona. In a broader sense the Accursed Mountains also include the mountain ranges to Mitrovica with the Hajla and Mokna massifs. Some authors, however, see the
river Lim The Lim (Serbian Cyrillic: Лим, ) is a river that flows through Montenegro, Serbia and Bosnia and Herzegovina and is long.
as the northern boundary of the Accursed Mountains in geological terms. From Lake Skadar, the mountains stretch northeast along the Cem river then curve slightly to the east in the direction of Gjervica summit above the western Kosovo (450m) basin. From here, the Accursed Mountains turn northwards over the Bogićevića massif and Čakor pass and continue with another row of mountains. The Accursed Mountains finish in the area of upper Ibar River valley near Mitrovica, just after the Suva Planina () massif that encircles Dukagjin basin from the north and northwest. The Accursed Mountains are ethnographically and sociologically diverse with many tribes living in the region as sheep herders. Names of various Albanian tribes ( Hoti, Gruda, Kelmendi, Kastrati, Dukagjini, Shkreli,
Shala Shala (Šala) was a Mesopotamian goddess of weather and grain and the wife of the weather god Adad. It is assumed that she originated in northern Mesopotamia and that her name might have Hurrian origin. She was worshiped especially in Karkar ...
, Nikaj, Krasniqi, Gashi,
Kuci KUCI (88.9 FM) is a college radio station broadcasting a variety format. Licensed to Irvine, California, United States, the station serves the Orange County area. The station is currently owned by Regents of the University of California and i ...
and Rugova) refer to their geographical locations within the range.


Geology

The Accursed Mountains are a typical Dinaric karst high mountain range with a pronounced steep topography and glacial features. Maximum relief differences of are found in the Valbona, Grbaja and Ropojani and Cem valleys. Overhanging walls and ridges forming pointed peaks are typical of the western and central Accursed Mountains. The eastern mountains are less rugged with lower relief. The valleys show characteristic effects of Pleistocene glaciation. Most of the area was modified by glacial activity with karstic areas in the western parts. The range was formed by the folding resulting from the collision of the African and
Eurasian Eurasia (, ) is the largest continental area on Earth, comprising all of Europe and Asia. Primarily in the Northern and Eastern Hemispheres, it spans from the British Isles and the Iberian Peninsula in the west to the Japanese archipela ...
plates. Nowhere in the Balkans have glaciers left so much evidence of erosion. After the
Alps The Alps () ; german: Alpen ; it, Alpi ; rm, Alps ; sl, Alpe . are the highest and most extensive mountain range system that lies entirely in Europe, stretching approximately across seven Alpine countries (from west to east): France, Sw ...
, these mountains are the most glaciated in Europe south of the
Scandinavia Scandinavia; Sámi languages: /. ( ) is a subregion in Northern Europe, with strong historical, cultural, and linguistic ties between its constituent peoples. In English usage, ''Scandinavia'' most commonly refers to Denmark, Norway, and S ...
n ice sheet. They have very steep limestone slopes with abundant karst features. The Accursed Mountains are a large, rugged, pathless range. It is one of the rare mountain ranges in Europe that has not been explored entirely. In some areas, the Accursed Mountains run almost parallel with the Šar Mountains in
North Macedonia North Macedonia, ; sq, Maqedonia e Veriut, (Macedonia before February 2019), officially the Republic of North Macedonia,, is a country in Southeast Europe. It gained independence in 1991 as one of the successor states of Socialist Feder ...
, Albania and Kosovo. This tectonic crash produced the unusual zig-zag shape of the range and also their curving from the dominant Dinaric northwestern – southeastern direction toward the northeastern one. In the western and central parts of the range the composition of the mountains is of mainly uniform with
Mesozoic The Mesozoic Era ( ), also called the Age of Reptiles, the Age of Conifers, and colloquially as the Age of the Dinosaurs is the second-to-last era of Earth's geological history, lasting from about , comprising the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretace ...
limestones and dolomites of the
Jurassic The Jurassic ( ) is a geologic period and stratigraphic system that spanned from the end of the Triassic Period million years ago (Mya) to the beginning of the Cretaceous Period, approximately Mya. The Jurassic constitutes the middle period of ...
and
Cretaceous The Cretaceous ( ) is a geological period that lasted from about 145 to 66 million years ago (Mya). It is the third and final period of the Mesozoic Era, as well as the longest. At around 79 million years, it is the longest geological period of ...
ages. In the eastern Accursed Mountains in addition to the limestone and dolomite series, there are rocks from the late Palaeozoic and
Triassic The Triassic ( ) is a geologic period and system which spans 50.6 million years from the end of the Permian Period 251.902 million years ago ( Mya), to the beginning of the Jurassic Period 201.36 Mya. The Triassic is the first and shortest per ...
periods, medium-Triassic volcanic rocks and Jurassic
metamorphic rock Metamorphic rocks arise from the transformation of existing rock to new types of rock in a process called metamorphism. The original rock (protolith) is subjected to temperatures greater than and, often, elevated pressure of or more, caus ...
s. The Kalktafel is cut deeply with valleys in a variety of rock blocks of the mountains north of Përroi i Thatë, the Biga e Gimajive south of it, the Jezerca block between Shala and Valbona valley, the massif of the Maja e Hekurave, the plateau of the Maja e Kolats north of Valbona and Shkëlzen northeast of Valbona. The valleys were formed by glaciers which created very steep walls and hollows up to deep. The south wall of the
Maja Harapit Maja Harapit ( sq, Maja e Harapit, or ''Maja e Arapit'') is a mountain in the Accursed Mountains range in the north of Albania. The mountain is high, with an high south wall the northwestern edge of a large basin, where it dominates as a promine ...
is high, making it the highest rock face on the Balkan Peninsula. Although some scientific research gives the Accursed Mountains the status of a separate mountain chain, in most other ways this chain is still considered the highest of all Dinaric areas, connected with the Dinaric mountain chain in terms of geology, morphology, and ethnography.


Massifs

The Accursed Mountains are made up of many large sections or mountain massifs/groups, all of which are connected to one another. These massifs include the Popluks group with a height of , the Shkurt group at , the Radohimës group at , the Zaborës e Krasniçës at , the Bjelic group at , the Karanfili-Brada group at , the Rabës group at , the Ershellit group at , the Kakinjes group at , the Shkëlzen group at , the
Bogićevica Rops Bogićevica ( sr-cyrl, Богићевица; sq, Bogiçevica / Bogiqevica) is a mountain area in the Accursed Mountains mountain range. It spreads over Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo. It is about long and wide. The mountain area has a numb ...
group at , the Horolac group at , the Kershi Kocaj group at , the Maja e Zezë group at , the Lumbardhit group at , the
Kopranik Kopranik (, ) is a mountain with a height of 2,460m in Kosovo. Kopranik is part of the Albanian Alps The Accursed Mountains ( sq, Bjeshkët e Nemuna; sh-Cyrl-Latn, Проклетије, Prokletije, ; both translated as "Cursed Mountains"), al ...
group at , the Strellc group at , the Gjeravica group at , the
Junik Junik ( sq, Junik, sq-definite, Juniku; sr, Јуник, Junik) is a town located in Junik Municipality in the Gjakova District in western Kosovo. According to the 2011 census, the town of Junik has 6,053 inhabitants, while the municipality ha ...
group at , the Starac-Qokorr group , the Hajla group at , the Stedim-Ahmica group at , the Zleb-Rusulija group at , the Mokna group at and the Suva Planina group at .


Canyons and valleys

Erosion during
glaciation A glacial period (alternatively glacial or glaciation) is an interval of time (thousands of years) within an ice age that is marked by colder temperatures and glacier advances. Interglacials, on the other hand, are periods of warmer climate bet ...
left many telltale features behind. Deep river canyons and flat valleys wind around the ridges of the mountains. The largest canyon is
Rugova Canyon Rugova Canyon or Rugova Gorge ( sq, Gryka e Rugovës; sr, Руговска клисура, Rugovska klisura, italic=yes) is a river canyon near Peja in Western Kosovo, in the Accursed Mountains, close to the border with Montenegro. With a leng ...
. It is situated in Kosovo and is long from the border with Montenegro to Peja and is deep. It has very steep vertical mountain slopes on both sides. Valleys common at lower altitudes are found at the alpine level, creating mountain passes and valley troughs, such as Buni Jezerce in Albania. Buni Jezerce means "Valley of the Lakes" and it contains six small glacial lakes, the biggest being called the Big lake of Buni Jezerce. Canyons in the Accursed Mountains *
Rugova Canyon Rugova Canyon or Rugova Gorge ( sq, Gryka e Rugovës; sr, Руговска клисура, Rugovska klisura, italic=yes) is a river canyon near Peja in Western Kosovo, in the Accursed Mountains, close to the border with Montenegro. With a leng ...
* Deçani Canyon * Gashi Canyon * Cemi Canyon Valleys in the Accursed Mountains * Vermosh Valley *
Valbona Valley Valbona can refer to: * The town of Valbona, Spain * Valbonë, a town in northern Albania * Valbonë (river) in Albania {{disambig, geo ...
* Thethi Valley * Ropojona Valley * Gerbja Valley * Buni Jezerce * Cemi i Nikçit Valley


Rivers and lakes

The Accursed Mountains include many of the important rivers of the southeastern part of the Western Balkans. Rivers in this range fall roughly into two main categories, those that flow into the Lim and those that enter the White Drin and meet the Black Drin downstream at the Drin confluence. The southern and eastern slopes of the Accursed Mountains fall into the latter category. The Tara and Lim rivers, two major sources of the Dinaric river system, originate on the northern borders of the Accursed Mountains. The Vërmosh originates in the northwest mountainous part in Montenegro, close to the border with Albania. As a tributary of the Drina it drains into the
Danube The Danube ( ; ) is a river that was once a long-standing frontier of the Roman Empire and today connects 10 European countries, running through their territories or being a border. Originating in Germany, the Danube flows southeast for , pa ...
and then into the
Black Sea The Black Sea is a marginal mediterranean sea of the Atlantic Ocean lying between Europe and Asia, east of the Balkans, south of the East European Plain, west of the Caucasus, and north of Anatolia. It is bounded by Bulgaria, Georgia, Rom ...
. The Lim flows through the Plav lake. The
Ibar Ibar may refer to: People * Ibar of Beggerin (died 500), Irish saint * Íbar of Killibar Beg, Irish saint * Hilmi Ibar (born 1947), Kosovar academic * José Ibar (born 1969), Cuban baseball player Places * Ibar District, a division of the Serbia ...
, which originates on the slopes of the Hajla, takes a similar route into the Danube via the West Morava in Serbia. In the southern Accursed Mountains, the Drin dominates. It drains most of the ranges with its tributaries and when measured from the source of the White Drin in Radavc to the mouth of the Drin near Lezha, it is long. However, not all of the Drin flows near or parallel to the Accursed Mountains. One Drin tributary is the Valbona, which drains into the
Adriatic Sea The Adriatic Sea () is a body of water separating the Italian Peninsula from the Balkan Peninsula. The Adriatic is the northernmost arm of the Mediterranean Sea, extending from the Strait of Otranto (where it connects to the Ionian Sea) to th ...
, and its eastern tributary the Gashi River. To the west of the mountains is the Cem, which drains the northwestern part of the Montenegrin-Albanian border area to the Adriatic. Water levels fluctuate because the karst topography drains the water underground. Some rivers or streams, such as Përroi i Thatë in Albania, dry out completely during the summer droughts. Although the Peja Bistrica in Kosovo is short, it is very powerful and carved the Rugova Canyon. There are about 20 small alpine lakes of glacial origin in the Accursed Mountains. Many lakes are in the Bogiçevica border area between Kosovo and Albania and the ''Buni i Jezercë'' trough near the Jezerca and Bojs peaks. Some lakes, such as Lake Liqenat in Kosovo and Hrid Lake in Montenegro, are tourist attractions. Hrid Lake is a clear example of a well-preserved glacial relief. In the Pleistocene period this was a collection area for ice that fell down over steps of rock from surrounding peaks, dragging with it heterogeneous material. Precipitation washed away smaller rocks, but larger ones remain on the southwestern and western lake shore. The lake is long, wide and about deep on average. In addition to precipitation, it receives water from sources near its shores. The largest lake is Lake Plav in Montenegro. The lake lies at an altitude of above sea level in the Plav valley, nestled between the Accursed Mountains and the Visitor range. Waterfalls are found in some parts of the range. The White Drin Waterfall in Kosovo reaches a height of . Because it is not far from Peja, it is easily accessible and frequented by many visitors. The Grunas Waterfall in Albania is high and is in the Theth National Park. The Ali Pasha natural springs in Montenegro near Gusinje are the premium attraction for the town.


Highest peaks

Peaks over * Maja Jezercë (; in Albania) *
Gjeravica Gjeravica or Đeravica ( sq, Gjeravica; sr-cyr, Ђеравица) is the second-highest mountain peak in the Accursed Mountains mountain range and the Dinaric Alps chain, after Maja Jezercë. It is the second-highest mountain in Kosovo,. It has ...
(; in Kosovo) *
Maja Grykat e Hapëta Maja Grykat e Hapëta is a mountain located in northern Albania in the Bjeshkët e Namuna. It is found to the southeast of Maja Jezercë, south of the upper Valbonë valley. It is one of the highest mountains in the mountain range at high. In f ...
(; in Albania) Peaks over *
Maja e Radohimës Radohima ( sq, Maja e Radohimës) is a mountain within the Albanian Alps in northern Albania. Radohima rises between the Shala and Cem Valley. The massif of the Radohima has several other peaks with Maja e Radohimës at being the highest peak o ...
(; in Albania) *
Maja e Popljuces Maja e Popljuces is a mountain in Albania in the Accursed Mountains range. It is high and it itself is surrounded by many peaks above . It is located just south of Maja Jezercë Jezerca Peak ( sq, Maja Jezercë) is the highest peak in the Din ...
(; in Albania) *
Maja Briaset Maja e Brijasit is a tall mountain located in the country of Albania. It is part of the Accursed Mountains range in the northern part of Albania Albania ( ; sq, Shqipëri or ), or , also or . officially the Republic of Albania ( sq, Repub ...
(; in Albania) * Maja e Hekurave (; in Albania) *
Rodi e Kollatës Rhodes (; el, Ρόδος , translit=Ródos ) is the largest and the historical capital of the Dodecanese islands of Greece. Administratively, the island forms a separate municipality within the Rhodes regional unit, which is part of the Sou ...
(; in Albania) * Maja e Shënikut (; in Albania) *
Maja Tat The Accursed Mountains ( sq, Bjeshkët e Nemuna; sh-Cyrl-Latn, Проклетије, Prokletije, ; both translated as "Cursed Mountains"), also known as the Albanian Alps ( sq, Alpet Shqiptare), are a mountain group in the western part of the ...
(; in Albania) * Gusan (; in Albania and Kosovo) * Zla Kolata/Kollata e Keqe (; in Albania and Montenegro) * Marijaš/Marijash (; in Kosovo) * Dobra Kolata/Kolata e Mirë (; in Albania and Montenegro) * Rosni Vrh/Maja e Rosit (; in Montenegro) * Žuti kamen/Guri i Kuq (; in Kosovo) *
Maja Visens Maja Visens is a mountain in northern Albania in the Accursed Mountains The Accursed Mountains ( sq, Bjeshkët e Nemuna; sh-Cyrl-Latn, Проклетије, Prokletije, ; both translated as "Cursed Mountains"), also known as the Albanian Alp ...
(; in Albania) *
Maja Kokervhake Maja Kokervhake is a mountain in northern Albania, in the Accursed Mountains The Accursed Mountains ( sq, Bjeshkët e Nemuna; sh-Cyrl-Latn, Проклетије, Prokletije, ; both translated as "Cursed Mountains"), also known as the Albania ...
(; in Albania) * Rops/Maja e Ropës (; in Kosovo) Peaks over * Maja Shkurt (; in Albania) *
Maja Reshkullit Maja Reshkullit is a mountain in Albania, about 4.5 km southeast of the village Nikç. Maja Reshkullit is part of the Radohima massif of the Accursed Mountains The Accursed Mountains ( sq, Bjeshkët e Nemuna; sh-Cyrl-Latn, Проклетиј ...
(; in Albania) * Maja e Malësores (; in Albania) * Karanfili (Veliki Vrh, Kremeni Vrh, Maja Gurt e Zjarmit) (; in Montenegro) * Maja e Ragamit (; in Albania) * Maja Bojs (; in Albania) * Koprivnik/Kopranik (; in Kosovo) * Maja Vukoces (; in Albania) * Veternik (; in Albania) * Shkëlzen (; in Albania) *
Maja e Thatë ) , photo_size = , elevation_m = 2406 , elevation_ref = , prominence_m = , prominence_ref = , listing = , range = Albanian Alps ...
(; in Albania) * Pasji Peak (; in Kosovo and Montenegro) *
Maja Bogiçaj Maja Bogiçaj ( sq, Maja Bogiçaj; sr, Богићaj, ''Bogićaj'') is a peak of the Accursed Mountains range. It is located on the border of Kosovo and Albania Albania ( ; sq, Shqipëri or ), or , also or . officially the Republic of Al ...
(; in Albania and Kosovo) * Hajla (; in Kosovo and Montenegro) Peaks under * Rusulija () * Streoc () * Tromeđa () * Žljeb () * Maja e Kakisë () * Liqenat () * Rrasa e Zogut () * Hajla e Vëranocit () *
Junik Junik ( sq, Junik, sq-definite, Juniku; sr, Јуник, Junik) is a town located in Junik Municipality in the Gjakova District in western Kosovo. According to the 2011 census, the town of Junik has 6,053 inhabitants, while the municipality ha ...
() * Maja Stogut (; in Albania) * Maja e Elbunit () * Deçan Mountain () *
Maja Harapit Maja Harapit ( sq, Maja e Harapit, or ''Maja e Arapit'') is a mountain in the Accursed Mountains range in the north of Albania. The mountain is high, with an high south wall the northwestern edge of a large basin, where it dominates as a promine ...
() *
Maja Trojan Maja Trojan or Trojan ( sq, Maja Trojan or ''Trojan'', Serbian/ Montenegrin: ''Trojan'') is a mountain in the Accursed Mountains range on the border of Albania and Montenegro. Situated 7 km west of the village Gusinje Gusinje ( cyrl, Гусињ ...
() * Pogled () * Maja Dramadol () * Beleg () * Maja e Ershellit () * Maja e Vjelakut () * Hajla e Shkrelit () * Maja e Madhe () * Maja e Grebenit () * Lice Mountain () * Maja e Veleçikut ()


Climate

The Accursed Mountains are on the whole the wettest area of Europe. In the village of Boga in the valley, precipitation is per year, and otherwise per year is normal. At higher elevations snow is found even in summer, except in very dry years.


Glaciation

There are at least five active glaciers that probably formed during the late
Holocene The Holocene ( ) is the current geological epoch. It began approximately 11,650 cal years Before Present (), after the Last Glacial Period, which concluded with the Holocene glacial retreat. The Holocene and the preceding Pleistocene togeth ...
period, and some inactive glaciers between 1,980 and 2,420 meters high. The trough valleys of Ropojani, Grbaja and Valbona were carved by kilometres of glaciers during the last ice age. Detailed geomorphological mapping was used to reconstruct the positions of former glaciers. The longest glacier of Ropojana had a length of and a surface area of ; others include Valbona glacier at and , Grbaja Glacier at and and Bogićevića Glacier at and. In addition about 20 small lakes of glacial origin are found as described above, among them the lake group Buni i Jezerce to the north side of Jezerca, the Ridsko Lake, Lake Bukumisko and Rikavacko Lake. A recent report from geographers at the
University of Manchester The University of Manchester is a public university, public research university in Manchester, England. The main campus is south of Manchester city centre, Manchester City Centre on Wilmslow Road, Oxford Road. The university owns and operates majo ...
details the discovery of four previously unknown glaciers in the Albanian part of the mountain range at 1980–2100 m high, found in the area close to Maja e Jezerces. The glaciers, the largest of which is currently the size of six football pitches, vary in size every year according to the amount of winter snowfall and temperatures during the following summer. Their average total surface area is . Glacier-climate modeling suggests that these glaciers require annual accumulation of between (rainfall equivalent) to balance melting, which would correspond to between of snow. A significant proportion of this accumulation is likely to be sourced from windblown snow and, in particular, avalanching snow. It is estimated that the total accumulation needed to balance melting is potentially up to twice the amount accumulated from direct precipitation. The presence of these glaciers, the southernmost in Europe, at altitudes well below the regional snow line highlights the importance of local controls on glacier development. The geographers think at least eight glaciers were present in neighbouring mountains during the 19th century, correlating with the culmination of the Little Ice Age in the European Alps.


Flora

The vegetation of the Accursed Mountains is among the richest on the Balkan Peninsula and one of the main central European regions for
flora Flora is all the plant life present in a particular region or time, generally the naturally occurring ( indigenous) native plants. Sometimes bacteria and fungi are also referred to as flora, as in the terms '' gut flora'' or '' skin flora''. ...
. To date, 1,611 wild plants have been described in the Albanian part alone.Marash Rakaj
''Floristic and chorological news from north Albania''
in: ''Botanica Serbica'', 33 (2), Institute of Botany and Botanical Garden Jevremovac, Belgrad 2009, Seiten 177–183
50 flora species are
endemic Endemism is the state of a species being found in a single defined geographic location, such as an island, state, nation, country or other defined zone; organisms that are indigenous to a place are not endemic to it if they are also found else ...
, sub-endemic and
endangered An endangered species is a species that is very likely to become extinct in the near future, either worldwide or in a particular political jurisdiction. Endangered species may be at risk due to factors such as habitat loss, poaching and in ...
plant species. The southern edge of mountains have a sub-Mediterranean character. Various evergreen bushes are found in the deepest valleys of the canyons and sunny slopes, and in the higher valleys deciduous Shibljak shrubs are common. In the mountains over 100 medicinal herbs are found, including species of the genus Primula, Satureja and Sideritis. Because of its altitude and its favored habitat, the range is one of the centers of arcto-alpine relict flora of the Balkan Peninsula. Out of 77 arcto-alpine species of former glacial flora on the Balkan Peninsula, a little over 50 species can be found in the Accursed Mountains. The levels of vegetation in the Accursed Mountains meet the
alpine Alpine may refer to any mountainous region. It may also refer to: Places Europe * Alps, a European mountain range ** Alpine states, which overlap with the European range Australia * Alpine, New South Wales, a Northern Village * Alpine National P ...
level, from upland valleys through the montane mountain stage on forest-free alpine and subalpine mats and subnivale tundra caused by permafrost in vast heaps of rubble with raw soils. A real snow level is not widely spread, although in the high altitudes snow and fern fields can also keep during the summer on four very small glaciers at high altitudes, the highest one found in the shade of Jezerca.
Beech Beech (''Fagus'') is a genus of deciduous trees in the family Fagaceae, native to temperate Europe, Asia, and North America. Recent classifications recognize 10 to 13 species in two distinct subgenera, ''Engleriana'' and ''Fagus''. The ''Engl ...
, fir and silicate spruce forests dominate the mountain areas. Rarely, however, the Northern Europe species are found, typically the Scots pine ('' Pinus sylvestris''). The drought-resistant Mediterranean-sized black pine ('' Pinus nigra'') is also common. Aspens (''Populus tremula'') grow in damp sites alongside
mountain maple ''Acer spicatum'', the mountain maple, dwarf maple, moose maple, or white maple, is a species of maple native to northeastern North America from Saskatchewan to Newfoundland, and south to Pennsylvania. It also grows at high elevations in the sout ...
(''Acer pseudoplatanus'') and Norway spruce ('' Picea abies''). The Accursed Mountains are one of the southernmost areas where spruce grow in Europe. The "combat zones" of the forest are formed with dense thickets of mountain pine (''Pinus mugos)''. Conifers like the snakeskin pine ('' Pinus heldreichii'') are on
carbonate A carbonate is a salt of carbonic acid (H2CO3), characterized by the presence of the carbonate ion, a polyatomic ion with the formula . The word ''carbonate'' may also refer to a carbonate ester, an organic compound containing the carbonate ...
rocks and the Macedonian pine (''
Pinus peuce ''Pinus peuce'' (Macedonian pine or Balkan pine) ( Serbo-Croatian/ Macedonian: молика, molika; Bulgarian: бяла мура, Byala mura) is a species of pine native to the mountains of Macedonia, Bulgaria, Albania, Montenegro, Kosovo, the ...
'') of silicates are typical elements of the endemic Balkan flora. A cushion-sedge and blue grass lawn of (''Seslerion juncifoliae'') grows in alpine areas and, on shallow limestone soils, ''Oxytropidion dinaricae'', to which the alpine grass krumm grows as in the
Alps The Alps () ; german: Alpen ; it, Alpi ; rm, Alps ; sl, Alpe . are the highest and most extensive mountain range system that lies entirely in Europe, stretching approximately across seven Alpine countries (from west to east): France, Sw ...
. Other plants include Alpine aster ''
Aster alpinus ''Aster alpinus'', the alpine aster or blue alpine daisy, is a species of flowering plant in the family Asteraceae, native to the mountains of Europe (including the Alps), with a subspecies native to Canada and the United States. This herbaceou ...
'', edelweiss '' Leontopodium alpinum'' and white mountain avens '' Dryas octopetala''. These plants are atypical alpine plants specially adapted to the short growing season, UV radiation, cold and thin soils. The flora in the rocky areas of the Accursed Mountains are particularly noteworthy, because they are rare rich and endemic species, including the
Tertiary Tertiary ( ) is a widely used but obsolete term for the geologic period from 66 million to 2.6 million years ago. The period began with the demise of the non-avian dinosaurs in the Cretaceous–Paleogene extinction event, at the start ...
relic ''Amphoricarpos neumayeri''. Many species of flora are either
endemic Endemism is the state of a species being found in a single defined geographic location, such as an island, state, nation, country or other defined zone; organisms that are indigenous to a place are not endemic to it if they are also found else ...
or are mainly found in the Accursed Mountains. A plantain plant ''Plantaginaceae'' is found in the central Accursed Mountains as a variant of the alpine Wulfenie, but 700 km away it does not grow. ''Petasites doerfleri'' is only found on the Jezerca peaks, and the Albanian lily ''Lilium albanicum'' and ''Viola ducagjinica'' are only found at the top of the Maja Radohimës slope.Petrit Imeraj, Joost Smets, in: Gilian Gloyer: ''Albania Bradt Travel Guide'', Bucks 2006 (zweite Ausgabe), Also noteworthy is the ''Viola vilaensis Hayek''. ''Viola chelmea'' belong to a violet species that occur on the Montenegrin-Albanian border area, especially at the lake Bukumirsko Jezero at 2,100 meters, and are only found on
Asia Minor Anatolia, tr, Anadolu Yarımadası), and the Anatolian plateau, also known as Asia Minor, is a large peninsula in Western Asia and the westernmost protrusion of the Asian continent. It constitutes the major part of modern-day Turkey. The re ...
and the Balkans where they can grow due to woody, robust rhizome, cleistogamous flowers, and a lack of foothills. The Accursed Mountains are also the only European area where the Tertiary relic ''Forsythia europaea'' grow.


Fauna

Large mammal species that have long been extinct in other regions are found here, such as the Eurasian brown bear,
grey wolf The wolf (''Canis lupus''; : wolves), also known as the gray wolf or grey wolf, is a large canine native to Eurasia and North America. More than thirty subspecies of ''Canis lupus'' have been recognized, and gray wolves, as popularly u ...
, red fox,
European wildcat The European wildcat (''Felis silvestris'') is a small wildcat species native to continental Europe, Scotland, Turkey and the Caucasus. It inhabits forests from the Iberian Peninsula, Italy, Central and Eastern Europe to the Caucasus. Its ...
,
roe deer The roe deer (''Capreolus capreolus''), also known as the roe, western roe deer, or European roe, is a species of deer. The male of the species is sometimes referred to as a roebuck. The roe is a small deer, reddish and grey-brown, and well-adapt ...
, fallow deer,
red deer The red deer (''Cervus elaphus'') is one of the largest deer species. A male red deer is called a stag or hart, and a female is called a hind. The red deer inhabits most of Europe, the Caucasus Mountains region, Anatolia, Iran, and parts of ...
, wild boar and European otter.Wolfgang Fremuth (Herausgeber): ''Albania – Guide to its Natural Treasures'', Verlag Herwig Klemp, Tirana 2000, The highly endangered Balkan lynx, a subspecies of the Eurasian lynx, is mainly found in the Theth National Park where about roughly 20–50 individuals still roam, though poaching is still a large threat. Chamois are found throughout the high altitudes; about 720 chamois live between the borders of Kosovo and Montenegro. There is speculation that the mouflon roamed the Accursed Mountains until World War I, when it disappeared. Bird species include the
golden eagle The golden eagle (''Aquila chrysaetos'') is a bird of prey living in the Northern Hemisphere. It is the most widely distributed species of eagle. Like all eagles, it belongs to the family Accipitridae. They are one of the best-known bird ...
, snake eagle, honey buzzard, peregrine falcon,
capercaillie ''Tetrao'' is a genus of birds in the grouse subfamily known as capercaillies. They are some of the largest living grouse. Taxonomy The genus ''Tetrao'' was introduced in 1758 by the Swedish naturalist Carl Linnaeus in the tenth edition of hi ...
, rock partridge, scops owl,
Eurasian eagle owl The Eurasian eagle-owl (''Bubo bubo'') is a species of eagle-owl that resides in much of Eurasia. It is also called the Uhu and it is occasionally abbreviated to just the eagle-owl in Europe. It is one of the largest species of owl, and female ...
and the snow finch. So far 140 species of butterflies have been found, which makes the Accursed Mountains the richest area in Europe for butterflies. The rivers are home to a growing number of marble trout. Among the amphibians are the
alpine salamander The alpine salamander (''Salamandra atra'') is a black salamander that can be found in the French Alps, and through the mountainous range in Europe. It is a member of the genus '' salamandra''. Their species name, ''atra'', may be derived from the ...
(southernmost habitat), fire salamander,
yellow-bellied toad The yellow-bellied toad (''Bombina variegata'') belongs to the order Anura, the family Bombinatoridae, and the genus of fire-bellied toads. The toad is distributed mainly across western Europe as well as a handful of countries in eastern Europe ...
and fire-bellied toad . The rich herpetofauna include the fence lizard, green lizard, Greek tortoise and snakes such as the true vipers, including the venomous horned viper and adder. The Accursed Mountains have one endemic species of lizard, the Prokletije rock lizard or ''Dinarolacerta montenegrina'', named after the range.


Early climbing

British climbers Sleeman, Elmalie and Ellwood were the first to reach the summit of Maja Jezercë on 26 July 1929. Years later
Austrian Austrian may refer to: * Austrians, someone from Austria or of Austrian descent ** Someone who is considered an Austrian citizen, see Austrian nationality law * Austrian German dialect * Something associated with the country Austria, for example: ...
mountaineers also scaled the summit. Many explorers and scientists have visited the Accursed Mountains, collecting rocks and samples to display in museums. Before any of these expeditions, the highest peak of the range was believed to be Shkëlzen at high, followed by Maja Radohimës at . By early summer 1929 all the summits were measured by Italian geodetes.


National parks

There are four national parks in the Accursed Mountains — one each in Montenegro and Kosovo, and two in Albania. The Theth National Park in Albania was designated in 1966 and covers an area of along the Thethi River. The main attraction in the park is the Grunas Waterfall. The Valbona Valley National Park in Albania was also designated in 1996 and covers including the Valbona Valley and the Valbona River. This park is also referred to as the Gem of Albania. Kosovo, Albania, and Montenegro are planning to create another tri-state park in the area, that will be called the Balkans Peace Park. There are plans to create the enlarged Albanian Alps National Park in Albania, which would include areas of Vermosh, Thethi, Valbona and Gashi River in a massive area of . The park on the Kosovar side was established in 2012 with an area of , covering the high alpine areas as well as the Rugova Canyon and important rivers. The Montenegrin part of the mountain range was declared a national park in 2009, comprising an area of . A part of Maja e Ropës mountain was declared a floral mountain reserve in 1955, covering an area of of mainly Macedonian pine, pine and beech. In the same year the Kozhnjar area was declared a fauna reserve in particular to protect the chamois, covering an area of . Illegal deforestation is a major problem. To some extent even the national parks are affected. In dry summers forest fires are common. All the large mammals including wolves, chamois, foxes, badgers and wild boar are hunted without regard to national park boundaries.


Settlement, economy and transport

The Accursed Mountains are home to
Albanians The Albanians (; sq, Shqiptarët ) are an ethnic group and nation native to the Balkan Peninsula who share a common Albanian ancestry, culture, history and language. They primarily live in Albania, Kosovo, North Macedonia, Montenegro, Ser ...
, Montenegrins,
Serbs The Serbs ( sr-Cyr, Срби, Srbi, ) are the most numerous South Slavs, South Slavic ethnic group native to the Balkans in Southeastern Europe, who share a common Serbian Cultural heritage, ancestry, Culture of Serbia, culture, History of ...
and Bosniaks, but they are only very sparsely populated. At the edges there are some settlements: the Albanian
Koplik Koplik (also known as Koplik i Poshtëm) is a town and former municipality in the northwestern tip of Albania. At the 2015 local government reform, it became a subdivision, and the seat of the municipality Malësi e Madhe. It was the seat of the ...
and the Montenegrin Tuzi in the west near the Skadar Lake; Plav and Gusinje in of the northern valley of the upper Lim river in Montenegro and
Bajram Curri Bajram Curri (16 January 1862 – 29 March 1925) was an Albanian chieftain, politician and activist who struggled for the independence of Albania, later struggling for Kosovo's incorporation into it following the 1913 Treaty of London. He ...
, the main town of the district Tropoja, in the eastern part of the mountain range. Even the somewhat more distant, larger cities of Shkodra, Podgorica, Gjakova and Peja create their sphere of influence and are frequently visited by inhabitants of the highlands for errands, administrative procedures and market sales. In the mountains, villages only have up to a few hundred inhabitants. They are often scattered settlements without a clear core. Among the biggest are Tamara and Selca, both in the valley of the Cem and belonging to the community of the Kelmend. The community of eight villages – including Vermosh – comprises 6,600 inhabitants. Tamara is currently the only place in the central mountains with infrastructure such as a secondary school. Tamara and Vermosh share a maternity hospital. Until the collapse of communism there were such facilities, for example, in the Shala Valley. Many residents of the villages in the interior such as Boga, Theth or Valbona live there only in the summer months, as the villages are cut off for many weeks during winter. In addition to the seasonal migration, the whole mountain area is suffering from a severe " brain drain", as its income from agriculture is low. Many leave to seek work and a little more comfort in the region of Shkodra and Koplik, Tirana or abroad.Renate Ndarurinze: ''Albanien entdecken'', Trescher Verlag, Berlin 2006, As the year-round population dwindles as the terrain becomes less accessible, there are few state or local government employees such as teachers. Local income comes from agriculture, semi-illegal forestry and tourism. In a few places like Theth tourism has been revitalized by recreational hiking. With the help of GTZ, 40 private houses (also referred to as guest houses, or ''han'' in Albanian) have been transformed into tourist accommodations or B&Bs. In 2010 there were 130 beds available in total – 100 more than in 2007. Additionally, hiking trails have been marked and trails maps and travel guides published. In the period from 2006 to 2009, the number of tourists rose from 300 to around 7,500 per year. Unlike in the rest of Albania, the increase was due to foreign tourists. Lakes such as Plav and Hrid also receive many tourists during the summer months. In many villages there are small hydroelectric power plants that supply the village with electricity. Many villages were already settled by the 15th century, and some valleys have been inhabited since the
Stone Age The Stone Age was a broad prehistoric period during which stone was widely used to make tools with an edge, a point, or a percussion surface. The period lasted for roughly 3.4 million years, and ended between 4,000 BC and 2,000 BC, with ...
. At the end of communism, however, several thousand people emigrated and depopulated the area.


Transport in Albania

SH20 road crosses the Accursed Mountains in the Kelmend region of northwestern Albania, stretching from the eastern shore of
Lake Scutari Lake Skadar ( sh-Cyrl-Latn, Скадарско језеро, Skadarsko jezero, ; sq, Liqeni i Shkodrës, ) also called Lake Scutari, Lake Shkodër and Lake Shkodra lies on the border of Albania and Montenegro, and is the largest lake in Southern ...
at the Han i Hotit border crossing with Montenegro, to the first pass into the valley of Cem. It then leads to the source elevation of the Qafa e Predelecit after Vermosh, followed by another border crossing, ending at Gusinje. the SH20 stretch between Hani Hotit and Tamare has been paved and upgraded to European standards. From west to east, there is only the SH21 road recently paved from Koplik to Boga. The road from Qafa Thores leading to Theth has been recently paved with crash barriers and guard rails added, but is still steep, winding and narrow in places. From Theth, there is a bad track down to the Shala Valley Church and only a walking path along the river leads to Shkodra. SH22 road over the Qafa e Morinës at
Bajram Curri Bajram Curri (16 January 1862 – 29 March 1925) was an Albanian chieftain, politician and activist who struggled for the independence of Albania, later struggling for Kosovo's incorporation into it following the 1913 Treaty of London. He ...
after Gjakova has been reconstructed. In the past, the only route for crossing the border between Montenegro and Kosovo was via
Rugova Canyon Rugova Canyon or Rugova Gorge ( sq, Gryka e Rugovës; sr, Руговска клисура, Rugovska klisura, italic=yes) is a river canyon near Peja in Western Kosovo, in the Accursed Mountains, close to the border with Montenegro. With a leng ...
, which was very dangerous and steep. With the construction of the PejaRožaje highway the situation has greatly improved.Volker Grundmann: ''Albanien: Das komplette Reisehandbuch'', Unterwegs-Verlag, Singen 2008, In addition, SH42 road leading to Razem from SH21 has also been recently reconstructed. Historically, a caravan route between Podgorica and Plav crossed the mountains along the Lim and Cem rivers.Shala Valley Project – Final Report of the 2006 Field Season
James Pettifer: ''Albania & Kosovo – Blue Guide'', A & C Black, London 2001,


Notes


References


Further reading

*Boenzi Federico, Giovanni Palmentola: "Glacial Features and Snow-Line Trend During the Last Glacial Age in the Southern Apennines (Italy) and on Albanian and Greek Mountains", in: ''Journal of Geomorphology'', 41, 21–29, Berlin 1997. *Cook, Steve and Marash Rakaj. "Social Changes in the Albanian Alps During Communism". ''Middle States Geographer'' 28, 1995:84–90. * Jovan Cvijić : "Ice Age in Prokletije and Surrounding Mountains". The – Glass SKAN, XCI, Belgrade 1913th (Original: Cvijic, J. 1921: Ledeno doba u i Prokletijama okolnim planinama .- Glasnik Srpske Akad Kraljevske XCL, 1913, XCIII.) *Jovan Cvijić: ''Geomorphology I-II'', Belgrade 1924/26. * Edith Durham : ''High Albania'', London 1909 *Helmut Eberhart, Karl Kaser (Editor): ''Albania – Tribal Life between Tradition and Modernity'', Böhlau Verlag, Wien 1995, *
Rose Wilder Lane Rose Wilder Lane (December 5, 1886 – October 30, 1968) was an American journalist, travel writer, novelist, political theorist and daughter of American writer Laura Ingalls Wilder. Along with two other female writers, Ayn Rand and Isabel P ...
: ''Peaks of Shala'', Harper & Brothers: New York, 1923. *Milovan Milivojevića, Ljubomir Menkovića and Jelena Calic: "Pleistocene Glacial Relief of the Central Part of Mt Prokletije". In: ''Quaternary International'', v. 190, 1, 1 November 2008, 112–122 *
Franz Nopcsa Franz may refer to: People * Franz (given name) * Franz (surname) Places * Franz (crater), a lunar crater * Franz, Ontario, a railway junction and unorganized town in Canada * Franz Lake, in the state of Washington, United States – see Fran ...
: ''Geography and Geology of Northern Albania'', Institutum Regni Hungariae Geologicum, Budapest 1929 *Christian Zindel, Barbara House Amman: ''Hiking North Albania – Thethi and Kelmend'', Huber Verlag, Munich 2008,


External links


Academic


Prokletije on BirdLife

Peace parks of Prokletije

Montenegrin Prokletije


at summitpost.org
GTZ. ''Successful Cooperation – Sustainable Results: Examples from Europe, Caucasus and Central Asia'', Berlin, 2010


News articles

* * * (French) {{Authority control Dinaric Mountains mixed forests Mountain ranges of Albania Mountain ranges of Europe Mountain ranges of Kosovo Mountains of Montenegro National parks of Montenegro Two-thousanders of Albania Two-thousanders of Kosovo Two-thousanders of Montenegro Valbonë Valley National Park