Ball gown
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A ball gown, ballgown or gown is a type of
evening gown An evening gown, evening dress or gown is a long dress usually worn at formal occasions. The drop ranges from Ballerina skirt, ballerina (mid-calf to just above the ankles), Tea length, tea (above the ankles), to Skirt length, full-length. S ...
worn to a ball or a formal event. Most versions are cut off the shoulder with a low
décolletage Cleavage is the narrow depression or hollow between the breasts of a woman. The superior portion of cleavage may be accentuated by clothing such as a low-cut neckline that exposes the division, and often the term is used to describe the low nec ...
, exposed arms, and long
bouffant A bouffant ( ) is a type of puffy, rounded hairstyle characterized by hair raised high on the head and usually covering the ears or hanging down on the sides. Etymology The word ''bouffant'' has its etymological origin in the French word ''bouf ...
styled skirts. Such gowns are typically worn with opera-length white gloves, vintage jewelry or couture, and a stole (a formal shawl in expensive fabric),
cape A cape is a clothing accessory or a sleeveless outer garment of any length that hangs loosely and connects either at the neck or shoulders. They usually cover the back, shoulders, and arms. They come in a variety of styles and have been used th ...
, or
cloak A cloak is a type of loose garment worn over clothing, mostly but not always as outerwear for outdoor wear, which serves the same purpose as an overcoat and protects the wearer from the weather. It may form part of a uniform. People in many d ...
in lieu of a coat. Where "
state decoration A state decoration is an object, such as a medal or the insignia of an Order (distinction), order, that is awarded by a sovereign state to honor the recipient. The term includes civil awards and decorations, as well as military awards and decorat ...
s" are to be worn, they are on a bow pinned to the chest, and married women wear a
tiara A tiara (, ) is a head ornament adorned with jewels. Its origins date back to ancient Greco-Roman world. In the late 18th century, the tiara came into fashion in Europe as a prestigious piece of jewelry to be worn by women at formal occasions ...
if they have one. Although synthetic fabrics are now sometimes used, the most common fabrics are
satin A satin weave is a type of Textile, fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back; it is not durable, as it tends to snag. It is one of three fundamen ...
,
silk Silk is a natural fiber, natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be weaving, woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is most commonly produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoon (silk), c ...
,
taffeta Taffeta (archaically spelled taffety or taffata) is a crisp, smooth, plain woven fabric made from silk, nylon, cuprammonium rayons, acetate, or polyester. The word came into Middle English via Old French and Old Italian, which borrowed the Pers ...
and
velvet Velvet is a type of woven fabric with a dense, even pile (textile), pile that gives it a distinctive soft feel. Historically, velvet was typically made from silk. Modern velvet can be made from silk, linen, cotton, wool, synthetic fibers, silk ...
with trimmings of
lace Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is split into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted o ...
,
pearls A pearl is a hard, glistening object produced within the soft tissue (specifically the mantle (mollusc), mantle) of a living Exoskeleton, shelled mollusk or another animal, such as fossil conulariids. Just like the shell of a mollusk, a pear ...
,
sequins A sequin ( ) is a small, typically shiny, generally disk-shaped ornament. Sequins are also referred to as paillettes, spangles, or ''diamanté'' (also spelled ''diamante''). Although the words sequins, paillettes, lentejuelas, and spangles can ...
,
embroidery Embroidery is the art of decorating Textile, fabric or other materials using a Sewing needle, needle to stitch Yarn, thread or yarn. It is one of the oldest forms of Textile arts, textile art, with origins dating back thousands of years across ...
, ruffles, ribbons, rosettes and
ruching In knitting, a gather draws stitches closer together within a row of knitting. Common methods include: * In binding, a yarn loop is passed over 2 or more stitches in the same row (usually adjacent to the binding loop); also known as a ''pullover ...
.


History


1850s

In previous years, the same type of dress might have been called an evening dress, having very similar features; low-cut neckline, a tight bodice, a large skirt and (sometimes) bare arms. The ball gown at this time had similar features, a full skirt supported by a
petticoat A petticoat or underskirt is an article of clothing, a type of undergarment worn under a skirt or a dress. Its precise meaning varies over centuries and between countries. According to the ''Oxford English Dictionary'', in current British E ...
, a tight waist achieved by a
corset A corset /ˈkɔːrsɪt/ is a support garment worn to constrict the torso into the desired shape and Posture correction, posture. They are traditionally constructed out of fabric with boning made of Baleen, whalebone or steel, a stiff panel in th ...
or
bodice A bodice () is an article of clothing traditionally for women and girls, covering the torso from the neck to the waist. The term typically refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the 18th century, or to the ...
with a stay to keep the subject upright and with perfect posture, off the shoulder style and with bare arms. In the coming years, the introduction of the sewing machine changed the dress market. Middle-class people could now produce their own dresses and with more quality and efficiency than before when they were made by hand. Upper class members of society might still have had their dresses made by a designer but with the turn around time decreased. Around this time was also the introduction of chemical dyes. This dramatically changed the range of colors that dresses could be produced in. This time was encompassed within the Romantic period, which coincided with the Victorian era. During this time the crinoline was introduced as well as demure sleeves, which puffed up around the arm.


1860–1864

Skirts had developed an overall bell shape but with extra fullness at the back.


1865–1867

Skirts lost their front shape and were altered to lay more flat against the body while the sides and back gained fullness with pleating techniques. Oftentimes a long train was attached to the back of the skirt.


1868–1878

For the next 10 years the fullness in the back of the skirts increased further with the use of the
bustle A bustle is a padded undergarment or wire frame used to add fullness, or support the drapery, at the back of women's dresses in the mid-to-late 19th century. Bustles are worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skir ...
.


1878–1884

The bustle went out of style because it was not needed anymore for the fullness in the back of the dress. The material instead was gathered and fell down the back which ended with a long train.


1890–1900

The hourglass shape emerged which was known for a narrow waist. It was achieved by having a cone-shaped skirt that was narrow at the waist and gained fullness near the bottom. After the end of World War II, in 1947,
Christian Dior Christian Ernest Dior (; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer and founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, Dior, Christian Dior SE. His fashion house is known all around the world, having gained promi ...
introduced his "New Look" of nipped-in waistlines and full skirts.


1950s

Previously, ball gowns were worn for private events and parties, but in the mid-20th century, private events turned into public ones. As the century progressed, traditional events became less important while ones like charity events took their place. In 21st century culture, galas and red carpet events are showcases for extravagant gowns to be in the public eye. In Britain, when
Elizabeth II Elizabeth II (Elizabeth Alexandra Mary; 21 April 19268 September 2022) was Queen of the United Kingdom and other Commonwealth realms from 6 February 1952 until Death and state funeral of Elizabeth II, her death in 2022. ...
terminated formal court events in 1957, the more public events, like a charity ball, arose in popularity because they were open to anyone who could afford to buy a ticket. Designer dresses were typically part of a designer's collection, having them altered for the wearer. Designers need to know where a dress will be worn to avoid two people from matching. But if the original wearer decides to wear the dress to another event afterwards, the possibility of matching is increased. In modern times, designers must understand that their pieces of work will be criticized and also praised as a result of the internet and paparazzi.


Gallery

File:Modification de la taile1872 1877 1880.gif, The gown on the far right is an accurate representation of one that would be worn in 1880. File:Illustrated fashion catalogue - summer, 1890 (1890) (14597303469).jpg, "Hourglass" shape of 1890 File:Christian Dior Dress.jpg,
Christian Dior Christian Ernest Dior (; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer and founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, Dior, Christian Dior SE. His fashion house is known all around the world, having gained promi ...
ball gown and evening glove, 1954, at the Indianapolis Museum of Art File:Buenos Aires - Eva Perón de gala en fundación del Teatro Colón.jpeg,
Eva Perón María Eva Duarte de Perón (; ; 7 May 1919 – 26 July 1952), better known as Eva Perón or by the nickname Evita (), was an Argentine politician, activist, actress, and philanthropist who served as First Lady of Argentina from June 1946 until ...
wearing a gown by Christian Dior, 1950 File:Two Jean Dessès evening gowns, 1951.jpg, Two Jean Dessès ball gowns, 1951


Culture

The first forms of the 21st century term “
debutante ball A debutante, also spelled débutante ( ; from , ), or deb is a young woman of aristocratic or upper-class family background who has reached maturity and is presented to society at a formal "debut" ( , ; ) or possibly debutante ball. Original ...
” or “
cotillion The cotillion (also cotillon or French country dance) is a social dance, popular in 18th-century Europe and North America. Originally for four couples in square formation, it was a courtly version of an English country dance, the forerunner ...
” emerged in the mid 19th century with what was called a “coming out ball”. These events were meant to show off the women who were now of marriageable age. Traditionally the debutantes will wear all white, but with varying styles of dress. While the style of dress can vary, strapless and sleeveless variations are popular and are typically worn with white long gloves and can be accessorized with bouquets, and sometimes a fan. For most of the 19th century, a headdress with veiling was a popular style as well as a full train attached at the waist and in later years it would attach to the shoulders. File:Debutantes having a dress rehearsal, February 2009.jpg File:Debutante-dress.jpg File:Agnes Melanie Dickson as a debutante, ca. 1890 (9306366314).jpg The traditional ideals of the debutante ball vary based on location in the United States. The debutantes in
New Orleans New Orleans (commonly known as NOLA or The Big Easy among other nicknames) is a Consolidated city-county, consolidated city-parish located along the Mississippi River in the U.S. state of Louisiana. With a population of 383,997 at the 2020 ...
could be seen wearing jeweled crowns and dresses with Medici collars with elongated trains.
Texas Texas ( , ; or ) is the most populous U.S. state, state in the South Central United States, South Central region of the United States. It borders Louisiana to the east, Arkansas to the northeast, Oklahoma to the north, New Mexico to the we ...
has variations within its various regions. In Laredo, middle class debutantes wear beaded suede garments. In San Antonio, the dresses are of elaborate colors and covered in beads of different designs. The beads add extensive weight having some dresses weigh in at about 75 lbs. Another coming of age event is the
quinceañera In Mexico, Mexican and other Latin American cultures, it is customary to celebrate a girl's 15th birthday. In Spanish language, Spanish, the girl celebrating her 15th birthday is called a ; in English language, English, primarily in the Unite ...
, an event in Latin American cultures when a girl turns 15. Their gowns are often very brightly colored and resemble traditional ball gowns with very full ruffled or ruched skirts. File:Quinceañera. Santa Fe (14369403262).jpg File:Quinceañeras 2011 - Pasarela (5580591293).jpg File:Pasarela de las "Quinceañeras del Bicentenario" (4458414368).jpg File:Quinceañera. Santa Fe (14184259179).jpg, Quinceanera photo from Santa Fe, New Mexico


First Ladies Collection

In 1912, Helen Taft along with collection founders Cassie Mason Myers Julian-James, Rose Gouverneur Hoes, and the Smithsonian Institution started the “First Ladies Collection.” It is customary for the first lady of the United States to donate the dress she wears to the inauguration ball but it is not required. Every first lady is represented in the collection although they are not all inaugural dresses. Taft started this tradition when she donated her dress that she wore during her husband's inauguration. Typically the dresses were added to the collection after the president in question had left office but in 1955 the public uproar to see
Mamie Eisenhower Mary Geneva "Mamie" Eisenhower (; November 14, 1896 – November 1, 1979) was First Lady of the United States from 1953 to 1961 as the wife of President Dwight D. Eisenhower. Born in Boone, Iowa, she was raised in a wealthy household in Colo ...
's inaugural dress was so strong that the Smithsonian changed their policy and added her dress immediately, not waiting until her husband left office. File:Smithsonian National Museum of American History - Helen Tafts Inaugural Ball Gown (3425448486).jpg, Helen Taft's ball gown File:Smithsonian National Museum of American History - Mamie Eisenhowers Evening Gown (3425451492).jpg,
Mamie Eisenhower Mary Geneva "Mamie" Eisenhower (; November 14, 1896 – November 1, 1979) was First Lady of the United States from 1953 to 1961 as the wife of President Dwight D. Eisenhower. Born in Boone, Iowa, she was raised in a wealthy household in Colo ...
's ball gown File:Hearth Truth red dresses.jpg


See also

*
Ball (dance) A ball is a formal dance event often characterised by a banquet followed by a social dance. Ball dancing emerged from formal dances during the Middle Ages and carried on through different iterations throughout succeeding centuries, such as th ...
*
Ballerina skirt A ballerina skirt, also referred to as a Juliet skirt or a romance skirt, is a full skirt that is worn by ballet dancers and is composed of multiple layers of fabric. Ballet dancers wear the longer version of the skirt, while for fashion purposes ...
*
Crinoline A crinoline is a stiff or structured petticoat designed to hold out a skirt, popular at various times since the mid-19th century. Originally, crinoline described a stiff fabric made of horsehair ("crin") and cotton or linen which was used to ...
* Clothing terminology * Dress codes


References


Further reading

* {{Clothing 19th-century fashion 20th-century fashion 21st-century fashion Dancewear Gowns Balls (dance party)