Charles André Mare (1885–1932), or André-Charles Mare, was a French painter and textile designer, and co-founder of the Company of French Art (''la Compagnie des Arts Français'') in 1919. He was a designer of colorful textiles, and was one of the founders of the

Art Deco Art Deco, short for the French ''Arts Décoratifs'', and sometimes just called Deco, is a style of visual arts, architecture, and product design, that first appeared in France in the 1910s (just before World War I), and flourished in the Unit ...

movement. As a soldier in the French Army in

World War I World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was List of wars and anthropogenic disasters by death toll, one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, ...

, Mare led the development of

military camouflage Military camouflage is the use of camouflage by an armed force to protect personnel and equipment from observation by enemy forces. In practice, this means applying colour and materials to military equipment of all kinds, including vehicles, ...

, painting artillery using Cubism techniques to deceive the eye. His ink and watercolour painting ''Le canon de 280 camouflé'' (The Camouflaged 280 Gun) shows the close interplay of abstract art and military application at that time. He authored the book ''Cubisme et Camouflage'', 1914–1918. Mare sketched and painted scenes based on his experiences in World War I. His works include: ''American Troops Marching Through the Arch of Triumph'', 1930, and ''The Funeral of Marshal Foch'', 1931. After the war Mare combined his talents with the skills of architect Louis Sue and became a leader in the

movement. He designed pavilions, textiles and furnishings for the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris in 1925. and interiors of residences and the French ocean liners. A common feature of his work was the stylized rose, in garlands or bouquets.

Early life

Mare was born in

Argentan Argentan () is a commune and the seat of two cantons and of an arrondissement in the Orne department in northwestern France. Argentan is located NE of Rennes, ENE of the Mont Saint-Michel, SE of Cherbourg, SSE of Caen, SW of Rouen and N ...

, in Normandy. His childhood friends included the painter Fernand Léger. The young Mare had a passion for drawing, and decided to go to Paris to study art and design. In 1904, he enrolled at the School of Decorative Arts, and also took courses at the

Académie Julian The Académie Julian () was a private art school for painting and sculpture founded in Paris, France, in 1867 by French painter and teacher Rodolphe Julian (1839–1907) that was active from 1868 through 1968. It remained famous for the number ...

. In 1906, he showed his paintings and designs at the Salon des indépendants. In the following years, he participated in the Salon d'Automne, where he showed works along with those of his friends

Roger de La Fresnaye Roger de La Fresnaye (; 11 July 1885 – 27 November 1925) was a French Cubist painter. Early years and education La Fresnaye was born in Le Mans where his father, an officer in the French army, was temporarily stationed. The La Fresnayes were ...

, André Dunoyer de Segonzac,

Maurice Marinot Maurice Marinot (born 20 March 1882 in Troyes, France, died 1960, Troyes) was a French artist. He was a painter considered a member of Les Fauves, and then a major artist in glass. Marinot's father was a bonnet maker. Maurice did poorly in schoo ...

and

Marcel Duchamp Henri-Robert-Marcel Duchamp (, , ; 28 July 1887 – 2 October 1968) was a French painter, sculptor, chess player, and writer whose work is associated with Cubism, Dada, and conceptual art. Duchamp is commonly regarded, along with Pablo Picasso ...

. His designs in 1911 included very elaborate and stylized floral patterns for textiles, breaking away from traditional and Art Nouveau models. Guillaume Apollinaire commented on his skill in designing furniture. At the 1912 Salon d'Automne he and

Raymond Duchamp-Villon Raymond Duchamp-Villon (5 November 1876 – 9 October 1918) was a French sculptor. Life and art Duchamp-Villon was born Pierre-Maurice-Raymond Duchamp in Damville, Eure, in the Normandy region of France, the second son of Eugène and Lucie Duch ...

Jean Metzinger Jean Dominique Antony Metzinger (; 24 June 1883 – 3 November 1956) was a major 20th-century French painter, theorist, writer, critic and poet, who along with Albert Gleizes wrote the first theoretical work on Cubism. His earliest works, from 1 ...

, Albert Gleizes, Marie Laurencin, Fernand Léger and

collaborated in the design of the ''

La Maison Cubiste ''La Maison Cubiste'' (''The Cubist House''), also called ''Projet d'hôtel'', was an architectural installation in the ''Art Décoratif'' section of the 1912 Paris ''Salon d'Automne'' which presented a Cubist vision of architecture and design. Cr ...

'', an architectural installation designed to display cubist paintings. Mare designed the colorful wallpaper, which featured stylized roses and floral patterns, along with upholstery, furniture and carpets with similar motifs. It was a distinct break from traditional decor, and became a prototype for

interior design. The installation attracted considerable attention, and some scandal, in the press.

War and camouflage

During the

First World War World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was List of wars and anthropogenic disasters by death toll, one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, ...

, Mare worked on

camouflage Camouflage is the use of any combination of materials, coloration, or illumination for concealment, either by making animals or objects hard to see, or by disguising them as something else. Examples include the leopard's spotted coat, the b ...

for the French army, in a section of

camoufleurs A camoufleur or camouflage officer is a person who designed and implemented military camouflage in one of the world wars of the twentieth century. The term originally meant a person serving in a First World War French military camouflage unit. In ...

created by Lucien-Victor Guirand de Scevola and directed by his friend Dunoyer de Segonzac. He also worked for the British and Italian armies with his friend Fernand Léger and other painters including Forain,

Charles Camoin Charles Camoin (; 23 September 1879 – 20 May 1965) was a French expressionist landscape painter associated with the Fauves. ''Les Fauves: A Sourcebook'', by Russell T. Clement, p. 2, web: -->&lpg=PA2 Google Books Born in Marseille, Franc ...

Charles Dufresne Georges-Charles Dufresne (23 November 1876, Millemont - 8 August 1938, La Seyne-sur-Mer) was a French painter, engraver, sculptor and decorator. Biography He came from a family of sailors and fishermen that originated in Granville. He lef ...

, Villon, and Marcoussis; and with the sculptors Henri Bouchard and Charles Despiau—and with stage designers from the theatre. Mare applied the principles of

disruptive coloration Disruptive coloration (also known as disruptive camouflage or disruptive patterning) is a form of camouflage that works by breaking up the outlines of an animal, soldier or military vehicle with a strongly contrasting pattern. It is often co ...

camouflage using forms derived from Cubism: bands of colour juxtaposed to prevent the eye from recognizing the shape of a gun barrel, for example. Colours are chosen to overlap with those of the surrounding landscape. At that time, Mare painted ten of his many watercolour sketchbooks in Cubist style. His sketched designs include hollow camouflaged armoured trees for use as observation posts. In 1916 Mare was badly wounded by shrapnel from a shell on the front in Picardy while helping to set up an observation post. On 10 August 1916 Mare was awarded the

Military Cross The Military Cross (MC) is the third-level (second-level pre-1993) military decoration awarded to officers and (since 1993) other ranks of the British Armed Forces, and formerly awarded to officers of other Commonwealth countries. The MC ...

by King

George V George V (George Frederick Ernest Albert; 3 June 1865 – 20 January 1936) was King of the United Kingdom and the British Dominions, and Emperor of India, from 6 May 1910 until his death in 1936. Born during the reign of his grandmother ...

of the United Kingdom.

Art Deco

At the end of the War, Mare returned quickly to his artistic work. In 1919, he was commissioned, along with

Louis Süe Louis Süe (14 July 1875 – 7 August 1968) was a French painter, architect, designer and decorator. He and André Mare co-founded the ''Compagnie des arts français'', which produced Art Deco furniture and interior decorations for wealthy customer ...

and Gustave Louis Jaulmes, to design the decorations for the Champs-Élysées and the Arc-de-Triomphe to celebrate the first Bastille Day after the war. In 1919 he also joined with Lous Süe to create the ''Compagnie des Arts Française'', an interior design firm. He began producing designs for wallpapers, upholstery and other fabrics with his signature designs of baskets and wreaths of roses. Mare and Süe worked together for eight years, making some fifty different architectural ensembles, including interiors for the French Embassies in Warsaw and Washington, for the house of perfume manufacturer

Jean Patou Jean Patou (; 27 September 1887 – 8 March 1936) was a French fashion designer, and founder of the Jean Patou brand. Early life Patou was born in Paris, France in 1887. Patou's family's business was tanning and furs. Patou worked with his ...

, and the grand salon of the ocean liner Ile-de-France. They were also invited by the composer

Maurice Ravel Joseph Maurice Ravel (7 March 1875 – 28 December 1937) was a French composer, pianist and conductor. He is often associated with Impressionism along with his elder contemporary Claude Debussy, although both composers rejected the term. In ...

to design sets and costumes for his new ballet, ''L'Heure Espanol'', at the

Paris Opera The Paris Opera (, ) is the primary opera and ballet company of France. It was founded in 1669 by Louis XIV as the , and shortly thereafter was placed under the leadership of Jean-Baptiste Lully and officially renamed the , but continued to be ...

. In 1926, André Mare was made a knight of the French Legion of Honour for his services to the decorative arts. In 1921, Mare and Süe published a manifesto called ''Architectures'', with illustrations by artists including

Paul Vera Paul Vera (1882–1957) was a French painter, designer and pioneer of the Art Deco style. He is known for his collaboration on garden designs with his brother André Vera. Life Paul Vera was born in Paris in 1882. His father was Gustave Lėon Ver ...

, Marie Laurencin, and

, and text by Paul Valéry. They declared that their objective was to create ensembles which were "serious, logical, and welcoming." The Dining Room for Paul Girod (1920–21), (now in the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris) was typical of the Mare and Süe Art Deco style; it featured exquisite craftsmanship and extremely expensive materials; the walls were covered with rosewood and

mahogany Mahogany is a straight- grained, reddish-brown timber of three tropical hardwood species of the genus '' Swietenia'', indigenous to the AmericasBridgewater, Samuel (2012). ''A Natural History of Belize: Inside the Maya Forest''. Austin: U ...

, and the lighting fixtures were set in a ceiling decorated with gold leaf. On the upper portion of the walls, Bas-reliefs in gilded stucco by

illustrated "Summer" and "Autumn". The room also featured a fountain and faucets with sculptural decoration of gilded bronze. However, in his later years, his health, damaged during the war, began to fail. In 1927 André Mare decided to leave the ''Compagnie des Arts Français'' for health reasons, and instead devoted himself exclusively to painting. In 1930, he painted a large panel: ''The Funeral of Marshal Foch'' with landscapes inspired by his native Normandy. In November 1932, he died of tuberculosis, a result of serious mustard gas poisoning in the war. He is buried in the small cemetery of Lignerits in the Auge. In October–November 1933, a large body of his works was shown in the 23rd exhibition of the

Société Normande de Peinture Moderne The Société Normande de Peinture Moderne, also known as ''Société de Peinture Moderne'', or alternatively, ''Normand Society of Modern Painting'', was a collective of eminent painters, sculptors, poets, musicians and critics associated with P ...

in the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rouen.''L'Esprit français'', October 10, 1933, No. 85, page 216. File:"Abundance" Textile MET DP293540.jpg, Textile design ''Abundance'' by André Mare, (1911),

Metropolitan Museum of Art The Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York City, colloquially "the Met", is the largest art museum in the Americas. Its permanent collection contains over two million works, divided among 17 curatorial departments. The main building at 1000 ...

File:La Maison Cubiste, Le Salon Bourgeois, Salon d'Automne, 1912, Paris.jpg, ''Le Salon Bourgeois'', designed by André Mare in ''

'' in the decorative arts section of the

Salon d'Automne The Salon d'Automne (; en, Autumn Salon), or Société du Salon d'automne, is an art exhibition held annually in Paris, France. Since 2011, it is held on the Champs-Élysées, between the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais, in mid-October. The ...

, 1912, Paris. File:"Draperies" Textile MET DP293587.jpg, Rose Pattern Textiles designed by Mare (c. 1919), Metropolitan Museum of Art File:André mare per compaignie des arts français, paravento les faune, parigi, 1920 ca..JPG, Paravent ''Les Faunes'' (c. 1920), Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris File:Rose Mousse MET DP105936.jpg, Rose Mousse pattern for upholstery, cotton and silk (1920), Metropolitan Museum of Art File:Buffet by Compagnie des Arts Francais (1920-21).jpg, Buffet by Mare and Suë made for Pierre Girod (1920–21), of mahogany, walnut, marble, and gilded bronze File:Paquebot Ile de France-Grand Salon de 1re classe.jpg, Grand Salon of the

SS Île de France SS ''Île de France'' was a French ocean liner that was built in Saint-Nazaire for the Compagnie Générale Transatlantique (or CGT, also known as the "French Line"). The ship was named after the region around Paris known as " L'Ile de France", ...

(1927)

Selected works in French museums

* ''La Dactylo'' (1922), oil on canvas, . * ''Intérieur de l'abbatiale à Bernay'', oil on canvas, Musée des beaux-arts de Bernay. * ''Satan. Esquisse de chevaux dans une écurie'' (1926), oil on canvas, Musée des beaux-arts de Bernay. * ''Le Jockey'' (1928), oil on canvas, Musée des beaux-arts de Bernay. * ''Vue de Caen. Le Port St-Jean et St-Pierre'' (1931), oil on canvas, Musée des beaux-arts de Bernay. * ''Le Haras du Pin'' (1924), oil on canvas, Musée d'art moderne de Troyes. * ''L'Étalon'' (1928), oil on canvas, Musée d'art moderne de Troyes. * ''Carnets de guerre'', (1914–1918), watercolour notebooks, Archives nationales (France). * ''Salle à manger Art Déco'', (1920–1921), furniture, textiles and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris.

Bibliography

* * Léger, Fernand, ''Lettres à Charlotte et André Mare (1906–1932)'', correspondance présentée par Tristan Rondeau et préfacée par Michel Onfray. Textes d’introduction de Laurence Graffin, Jean-Christophe Orticoni, ''Yves'' Chevrefils Desbiolles et Benoît Noël, Sainte-Marguerite-des-Loges, Éditions BVR, 2019 *Mare, A. ''Cubisme et Camouflage, 1914–1918''. Musee municipal des Beaux-Arts, Bernay, 1998. (in French) * Mare, A. et Sue, L. ''André Mare et la Compagnie des Arts Français''. L'Ancienne Douane, Strasbourg, 1971. (in French) * Duncan, Alistair, ''Art déco'', Thames and Hudson, London (1988), (in French)

References

External links

Textile Designers

Works by André Mare, Agence photographique de la réunion des Musées nationaux
{{DEFAULTSORT:Mare, Andre 1885 births 1932 deaths 19th-century deaths from tuberculosis 20th-century French painters 20th-century French male artists Camoufleurs Chevaliers of the Légion d'honneur Cubist artists French male painters People from Argentan French military personnel of World War I Tuberculosis deaths in France