Amne Machin
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Amne Machin, Anyi Machen, or Anyê Maqên ("Grandfather Pomra") is the highest peak of a mountain range of the same name in the southeast of
Qinghai province Qinghai (; alternately romanized as Tsinghai, Ch'inghai), also known as Kokonor, is a landlocked province in the northwest of the People's Republic of China. It is the fourth largest province of China by area and has the third smallest pop ...
, China. It is revered in
Tibetan Buddhism Tibetan Buddhism (also referred to as Indo-Tibetan Buddhism, Lamaism, Lamaistic Buddhism, Himalayan Buddhism, and Northern Buddhism) is the form of Buddhism practiced in Tibet and Bhutan, where it is the dominant religion. It is also in majo ...
as the home of the chief indigenous deity of
Amdo Amdo ( am˥˥.to˥˥ ) is one of the three traditional Tibetan regions, the others being U-Tsang in the west and Kham in the east. Ngari (including former Guge kingdom) in the north-west was incorporated into Ü-Tsang. Amdo is also the bi ...
, Machen Pomra.


Geography

The entire Amne Machin range is an eastern extension of the
Kunlun Mountains The Kunlun Mountains ( zh, s=昆仑山, t=崑崙山, p=Kūnlún Shān, ; ug, كۇئېنلۇن تاغ تىزمىسى / قۇرۇم تاغ تىزمىسى ) constitute one of the longest mountain chains in Asia, extending for more than . In the bro ...
, a major mountain system of Asia. The Amne Machin range runs in the general northwest-to-southeast direction in eastern Qinghai (
Golog Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture Golog (Golok or Guoluo) Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture (; ) is an autonomous prefecture occupying the southeastern corner of Qinghai province, People's Republic of China. The prefecture has an area of and its seat is located in Maqên County. Du ...
and the adjacent areas of the
Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, formerly known as Tsolho Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture (; ), is an autonomous prefecture of Northeastern Qinghai Province in Western China. The prefecture has an area of and its seat is located in Gonghe C ...
) and the southwestern corner of
Gansu Gansu (, ; alternately romanized as Kansu) is a province in Northwest China. Its capital and largest city is Lanzhou, in the southeast part of the province. The seventh-largest administrative district by area at , Gansu lies between the Tibe ...
's Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. The existence of the ridge results in one of the great bends of the
Yellow River The Yellow River or Huang He (Chinese: , Mandarin: ''Huáng hé'' ) is the second-longest river in China, after the Yangtze River, and the sixth-longest river system in the world at the estimated length of . Originating in the Bayan Ha ...
. The river first flows for several hundreds of kilometers toward the east and southeast, along the south-western side of the Amne Machin Range. In so doing it crosses the entire length of Golog Prefecture, and reaches the borders of Gansu and Sichuan. Then the river turns almost 180 degrees to the left, passing to the northeastern side of the Amne Machin, and flows toward the northwest for 200–300 km through several prefectures of the northeastern Qinghai. The Amne Machin Peak (the highest point of the range) is located in
Maqên County Maqên or Maqin County is a county of Qinghai Province, China. It is under the administration of Golog Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. Name The county is named for Anyê Maqên, the Tibetan name for a revered local mountain. Administrative div ...
of Golog Prefecture. Its elevation is estimated to . It is ranked number 23 in height among the mountain peaks of China. A part of the range around its highest peak has been declared a section of the Sanjiangyuan ("Sources of Three Rivers") National Nature Reserve.


History

The mountain was known to the ancient Chinese as Mount Jishi (, , ''Jīshíshān''). The
Northern Wei Wei (), known in historiography as the Northern Wei (), Tuoba Wei (), Yuan Wei () and Later Wei (), was founded by the Tuoba (Tabgach) clan of the Xianbei. The first of the Northern dynasties, it ruled northern China from 386 to 535 during t ...
-era commentary on the Han-era ''River Classic'' stated that the mountain was the site where
Yu the Great Yu the Great (大禹) was a legendary king in ancient China who was famed for his introduction of flood control, his establishment of the Xia dynasty which inaugurated dynastic rule in China, and his upright moral character. He figures promine ...
tamed the
Yellow River The Yellow River or Huang He (Chinese: , Mandarin: ''Huáng hé'' ) is the second-longest river in China, after the Yangtze River, and the sixth-longest river system in the world at the estimated length of . Originating in the Bayan Ha ...
and that it was considered part of
Longxi Commandery Longxi Commandery ( Chinese:  trad. , simp. , ''Lǒngxījùn'') was a commandery of imperial China in present-day Gansu, named due to its location west of Mount Long (the southern portion of Mount Liupan). Qin dynasty Establish ...
, located 1740 li () from Kunlun Mountain and 5000 li () from the
Luo Luo may refer to: Luo peoples and languages *Luo peoples, an ethno-linguistic group of eastern and central Africa **Luo people of Kenya and Tanzania or Joluo, an ethnic group in western Kenya, eastern Uganda, and northern Tanzania. *** Luoland, th ...
. The massif had long been considered a sacred mountain and a place of pilgrimage, when before the Communist takeover up to 10,000 Golok people would make the 120-mile
circumambulation Circumambulation (from Latin ''circum'' around and ''ambulātus ''to walk) is the act of moving around a sacred object or idol. Circumambulation of temples or deity images is an integral part of Hindu and Buddhist devotional practice (known in S ...
of the mountain each year. The first European to describe the mountain was the British explorer Brigadier-General
George Pereira Brigadier General George Edward Pereira, (26 January 1865 – 20 October 1923) was a British Army officer, writer, diplomatist, and explorer in Central Asia, Tibet and Western China. Early life and family George Pereira was descended from an old ...
on his expedition on foot from Peking to Lhasa of 1921–2, sometimes reckoned one of the great geographical discoveries of the twentieth century. Pereira, who saw Amne Machin from about 70 miles away, thought its "height must be at least 25,000 feet ,600 m and might be anything; it dwarfed all other mountains near it." However, the massif remained unclimbed until 1960. The Amne Machin mountains had been overflown by a few American pilots who overestimated the elevation to 30,000 feet (9,100 m). A 1930 article of the
National Geographic ''National Geographic'' (formerly the ''National Geographic Magazine'', sometimes branded as NAT GEO) is a popular American monthly magazine published by National Geographic Partners. Known for its photojournalism, it is one of the most widel ...
estimated the peak elevation to 28,000 feet ,500 maccording to the report of
Joseph Rock Joseph Francis Charles Rock (1884 – 1962) was an Austrian-American botanist, List of explorers, explorer, geographer, linguistics, linguist, ethnographer and photographer. Life Josef Franz Karl Rock was born in Vienna, Austria, the son of a s ...
, an American botanist and explorer who, despite death threats from the Golog Tibetans, had ventured to within 80 km of the mountain. For a while, the mountains were considered as a possible place for a peak higher than
Mount Everest Mount Everest (; Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation (snow hei ...
. While Rock only downgraded his estimate publicly in 1956 to "not much more than 21,000 feet", he did give a detailed description of the peaks: By 1980 Anyi Machen had been resurveyed at .John Town
Amne Machin: a closer look
/ref>


Climbing history

In 1960, a Chinese expedition climbed the mountain, but it was demonstrated in 1980 that this expedition climbed Amne Machin II (Roche's ''Chenrezig'', 6,268 m), 7 km SSE from the highest summit. In 1981, Amne Machin I (''Dradullunshog'') was reached near-simultaneously by three groups, each of which had been led to believe they were the first and only ones to obtain a permit from the Chinese government. A Japanese expedition approached the summit from the south and put Giichiro Watanabe, Yoshio Yamamoto and Katsumi Miyake on top on May 22, 1981, and five other expedition members 3 days later. Within three weeks, the American climbers
Galen Rowell Galen Avery Rowell (August 23, 1940 – August 11, 2002) was a wilderness photographer, adventure photojournalist and mountaineer. Born in Oakland, California, he became a full-time photographer in 1972. Early life and education Rowell was in ...
, Harold Knutsen and Kim Schmitz made an Alpine-style ascent over the East ridge of the NE summit to reach the main summit on June 9. They did not see any evidence of an earlier ascent.Galen Rowell
On and Around Anyemaqen
American Alpine Journal 24, p. 88 (1982)
The very next day Siegfried Hupfauer, Hans Gaschbauer, Franz Lämmerhofer, Gerhard Schmatz and Peter Vogler of an Austro-German expedition reached the summit as well. They had followed the Japanese route and the 3000 feet of fixed rope they encountered en route convinced them that the Japanese had been the first to summit.Siegfried Hupfauer
Anyemaqen, 1981, Third Ascent
American Alpine Journal 25, p. 292 (1983)
The mountain remained busy that summer, as Kim Schmitz returned to the summit with two Canadian clients on June 12, another Japanese party summited in August, and in September an Australian team climbed the impressive NE face and descended over the 6 km long unclimbed NNE ridge.


In popular culture

* "Beyond the Great Snow Mountains", ''The Collected Short Stories of Louis L'Amour, Vol. 4, Part 1: Adventure Stories.''


References


Citations


Sources

* Pereira, Cecil. "Peking to Lhasa (From the Diaries of the Late Brig.-Gen. George Pereira)" ''The Geographical Journal'', Vol. 64, No. 2 (Aug., 1924), pp. 97–117. The elevation estimate is on p. 104. * ''Lamaist Sites of the Amny Machen Region'' (Golog), in: Andreas Gruschke: ''The Cultural Monuments of Tibet’s Outer Provinces: Amdo - Volume 1. The Qinghai Part of Amdo.'' Bangkok, 2001, pp. 73–90. * Sir Francis Younghusband and George Pereira, ''Peking to Lhasa; The Narrative of Journeys in the Chinese Empire Made by the Late Brigadier-General George Pereira'' (London: Constable and Company, 1925).


Further reading

* Leonard Clark ''The Marching Wind'' (New York Funk and Wagnalls, 1954)


External links


Time magazine from 1948 about the Amne Machin mountains

Life magazine article from 1949 about Amne Machin.

Galen A. Rowell, ''On and Around Anyemaqen''

Google map satellite view of the Amne Machin mountains
{{Authority control Mountain ranges of China Sacred mountains Mountains of Qinghai Six-thousanders of the Kunlun