Ahvaz ( fa, اهواز, Ahvâz ) is a city in the southwest of Iran and the capital of Khuzestan province. Ahvaz's population is about 1,300,000 and its built-up area with the nearby town of Sheybani is home to 1,136,989 inhabitants. It is home to Persians, Arabs, Bakhtiari people, Bakhtiaris, Dezfulis, Shushtaris, and others. Languages spoken in the area include Persian language, Persian and Arabic, as well as dialects of Luri language, Luri (Bakhtiari dialect, Bakhtiari), Dezfuli dialect, Dezfuli, Shushtari dialect, Shushtari, and others. One of the 2 navigable rivers of Iran alongside the Arvand Rud (Shatt al-Arab), the Karun, passes through the middle of the city. Ahvaz has a long history, dating back to the Achaemenid period. In ancient times, the city was one of the main centers of the Academy of Gondishapur.

Etymology

The word Ahvaz is a Persianized form of the Arabic "Ahwaz," which, in turn, is derived from an older Persian word. The Dehkhoda Dictionary specifically defines the "Suq-al-Ahvaz" as "Market of the Khuzis", where "Suq" is the Elamite word for market, and "Ahvaz" is a broken plural () of the form "af'āl" () of the word "Huz" or "هوز", which itself comes from the Persian ''Huz'', from Achaemenid inscriptions where the term first appears. Thus, "Ahvaz" in Persian means "the Huz-i people", which refers to the Khuzi original inhabitants of Khūzestān. The name of the region appears in medieval Syriac language, Syriac sources as ', literally meaning "land of the Huzis". The term "Huz", meanwhile, is the Old Persian rendition of Suz (Susa-Susiana), the native Elamite name of the region. See Origin of the name Khuzestan and Elam#Etymology for more details.

History

Ancient history

Ahwaz is the analog of "Avaz" and "Avaja" which appear in Achaemenid emperor Darius's epigraph. This word also appears in the Naqsh-Rostam inscription as "Khaja" or "Khooja". First named ''Ōhrmazd-Ardašēr'' (Persian: ''Hormozd ardeshir''), Ahvaz was built near the beginning of the Sassanid Empire, Sassanid dynasty on what historians believe to have been the site of the old city of ''Taryana'', a notable city under the Persian Achaemenid Empire, Achaemenid dynasty, or the city of Aginis referred to in Greek sources where Nearchus and his fleet entered the Pafitigris. The city was founded either by Ardashir I in 230 (cf. ''Encyclopædia Iranica'', al-Muqaddasi, et al.) or (according to the Middle Persian ''Šahrestānīhā ī Ērānšahr (shahrestān hā-ye Irānshahr)'') by his grandson Hormizd I; the city’s name either combined Ardashir's name with the Zoroastrian name for God, ''Ahura Mazda, Ōhrmazd'', or Hormizd's name with that of his grandfather. It became the seat of the province, and was also referred to as ''Hūmšēr''. During the Sassanid era, an irrigation system and several dams were constructed, and the city prospered. Examples of Sassanid-era dams are ''Band-e Bala-rud'', ''Band-e Mizan'', ''Band-e Borj Ayar'' and ''Band-e Khak''. The city replaced Susa, the ancient capital of Susiana, as the capital of what was then called Khuzestān. The city had two sections; the nobles of the city lived in one part while the other was inhabited by merchants. When Arabs invaded the area in 640, the part of the city home to the nobility was demolished but the ''Hūj-ī-stānwāčār'' "Market of Khūz State", the merchant area, remained intact. The city was therefore renamed ''Sūq al-Ahwāz'', "Market of the ''Khuz''", a semi-literal translation of the Persian name of this quarter - ''Ahwāz'' being the Arabic broken plural of ''Hûz'', taken from the ancient Persian term for the native Elamite peoples, ''Hūja'' (remaining in medieval ''khūzīg'' "of the ''Khuzh''" and modern ''Khuzestān'' "Khuz State", as noted by Dehkhoda dictionary).

Medieval history

During the Umayyad and Abbasid eras, Ahwaz flourished as a center for the cultivation of sugarcane and as the home of many well-known scholars. It is discussed by such respected medieval historians and geographers as ibn Hawqal, Muhammad ibn Jarir al-Tabari, Tabari, Istakhri, al-Muqaddasi, Ya'qubi, Ali al-Masudi, Masudi, and Hamdollah Mostowfi, Mostowfi Qazvini. Nearby stood the Academy of Gundishapur, where the modern-day teaching hospital is said to have been first established. Ahwaz was devastated in the Mongol Empire, Mongol invasions of the 13th and 14th centuries and subsequently declined into a village. The dam and irrigation channels, no longer maintained, eroded and finally collapsed early in the 19th century. During this time Ahwaz was primarily inhabited by the original Khuzhis and a small number of Sabians. Although most Arab migrants fled the city, a few stayed. Some minor cultivation continued, while all evidence of sugarcane plantations is still going on in Haft Teppe area in north of Ahwaz, although ruins of sugarcane mills from the medieval era remained in existence. Several ruins of water mills also still remain in Shush, Iran, Shush and Shushtar.

Modern history

The seat of the province has, for the most of its history, been in its northern reaches, first at Susa (Shush, Iran, Shush) and then at Shushtar. During a short spell in the Sasanian Empire, Sasanian era, the capital of the province was moved to its geographical center, where the river town of Hormuz-Ardashir (modern Ahwaz). However, later in the Sasanian time and throughout the Islamic era, the provincial seat returned and stayed at Shushtar, until the late Qajar period. With the increase in the international sea commerce arriving on the shores of Khuzestan, Ahwaz became a more suitable location for the provincial capital. The River Karun is navigable all the way to Ahwaz (above which, the Karun flows through rapids). The town was thus refurbished by the order of the Qajar king, Naser al-Din Shah and renamed after him, Nâseri. Shushtar quickly declined, while Ahwaz/Nâseri prospered to the present day. In the 19th century, "Ahwaz was no more than a small borough inhabited mainly by Sabians, Sabeans (1,500 to 2,000 inhabitants according to Ainsworth in 1835; 700 according to Curzon in 1890)." In the 1880s, under Qajar dynasty, Qajar rule, the Karun River was dredged and re-opened to commerce. A newly built railway crossed the Karun at Ahwaz. The city again became a commercial crossroads, linking river and rail traffic. The construction of the Suez Canal further stimulated trade. A port city was built near the old village of Ahvaz, and named ''Bandar-e-Naseri'' in honor of Nassereddin Shah Qajar. Oil was found near Ahwaz in the early 20th century, and the city once again grew and prospered as a result of this newfound wealth. From 1897 to 1925, the city of Ahwaz was in the hands of heshmatoddoleh Ghajar, who acted as governor and Sarhang Reza Gholi Khane Arghoon commander of Ghajari's army based in Khuzestan. Khaz'al al-Ka'bi, Sheikh Khaz'al was recognized by Mozaffar ad-Din Shah Qajar as hereditary ruler of Emirate of Arabistan, Mohammerah, Sardar Asad Bakhtiari as the most powerful leader of Khuzestan's Bakhtiari people, Bakhtiaries. He had power and authority over most regions of Khuzestan, such as Dezful, Shushtar, Izeh, even Ahwaz and Amir mojahede bakhtiari in Ramhormoz and Behbahan. At this time, the newly founded Ahwaz was named ''Nâseri'' in honour to its founder Nassereddin Shah Qajar. Afterwards, during the Pahlavi dynasty, Pahlavi period, it resumed its old name, ''Ahwaz''. The government of the Khūzestān Province was transferred there from Shushtar, Shûshtar in 1926. The Trans-Iranian Railway reached Ahwaz in 1929 and by World War II, Ahwaz had become the principal built-up area of the interior of Khūzestān. Professional segregation remained well marked between various groups in that period still feebly integrated: Persian people, Persians, sub-groupings of Persians and Arabs. Natives of the Eşfahān Province, Isfahan region held an important place in retail trade, owners of cafes and hotels and as craftsmen. Iraq attempted to annex Khūzestān and Ahwaz in 1980, resulting in the Iran–Iraq War (1980–1988). Ahwaz was close to the front lines and suffered badly during the war. Iraq had pressed its claims to Khūzestān. Iraq had hoped to exacerbate ethnic tensions and win over popular support for the invaders. Most accounts say that the Arabs of Khuzestan, Iranian Arab inhabitants resisted the Iraqis rather than welcome them as liberators. However, some Iranian Arabs claim that as a minority they face discrimination from the central government; they agitate for the right to preserve their cultural and linguistic distinction and more provincial autonomy. See ''Politics of Khuzestan, Politics of Khūzestān''. In 1989, the ''Foolad Ahwaz'' steel facility was built close to the town. This company is best known for its company-sponsored Football (soccer), football club, Foolad F.C., which was the champion of Iran's Premier Football League in 2005. Ahvaztashrifat2

In 2005 the city witnessed a Ahwaz Bombings, series of bomb explosions. Many government sources relate these events to developments in Iraq, accusing foreign governments of organizing and funding Arab separatist groups. The Arab Struggle Movement for the Liberation of Ahwaz claimed credit for several of the bombings, including four bombs on 12 June 2005, that killed 8 people. Gunmen killed at least 29 people in Ahvaz military parade attack, an attack on a crowd watching a military parade on 22 September 2018.

Bridges

There are 9 bridges over the Karun river.

Pol-e Siah, Pol-e Siah (Black Bridge)

Black Bridge, also known as Victory Bridge, is the first bridge over of Ahvaz. The bridge was used in World War II, WWII to supply Allies of World War II, Allies in Soviet Union and it had a vast impact in Allies victory.

White Bridge (Iran), White Bridge

White Bridge (Persian language, Persian: پل سفید), is an arch bridge completed on the 21st of September 1936 and inaugurated on the 6th of November 1936. The bridge remains a symbol of the city still today. The other 7 bridges are : Third bridge, Naderi bridge, Fifth bridge, Sixth bridge, Seventh bridge (also named ''Dialogue among civilizations bridge''), Cable bridge, and Ninth bridge.

Location and roads

Ahwaz is located 100 km north-east of Abadan, Iran, Abadan and is accessible via following routes in addition of a single runway airport: *Tehran-Khorramshahr national railway * Iran First Level Road 39

Ahvaz-Abadan, Iran, Abadan expressway (145 km) * Iran First Level Road 37

Ahvaz-Andimeshk (152 km) expressway * Road5

Ahvaz-Bandar Imam Khomeini freeway (175 km). Ahwaz, being the largest city in the province, consists of two distinctive districts: the newer part of Ahwaz which is the administrative and industrial center, which is built on the right bank of the Karun, Karun river while residential areas are found in the old section of the city, on the left bank.

Climate

Ahwaz has a subtropical hot desert climate (Köppen climate classification ''BWh'') with long, hot summers and cool, short winters. Summer temperatures are regularly at least sometimes exceeding with many sandstorms and duststorms common during the summer period. However, in winters, the minimum temperature can fall to around . Winters in Ahvaz have no snow. The average annual rainfall is around 230 mm. On June 29, 2017, the temperature reached . Furthermore, the dew point peaked at which is unusually humid for the usual dry heat. Despite the fact that it has never snowed in Ahvaz, it has fallen down to before.

People

According to the 2016 census, the city had an estimated population of 1.1 million people.

Languages

Based on a survey taken by the Iranian ministry of culture in 2010, the most common languages in Ahvaz are Persian (44.8%), Arabic (35.7%), and Bakhtiari (15.8%). Many Ahvazis are bilingual, speaking both Persian language, Persian and one of the following languages/Dialects. The indigenous inhabitants of Ahvaz speak Persian dialects in Khuzestan, Khuzestani Persian dialect that is unique to Khuzestan, and rooted in old Persian and Elamite languages. The Arabic spoken in Ahvaz is a variety of Khuzestani Arabic. Another part of Ahvazis speak Bakhtiari dialect of Luri language. Neo-Mandaic, Modern Mandaic (or ''Mandaee'') language is also spoken among the Mandaeans of Ahvaz. It is a descendant of the Classical Mandaic language that has been partially influenced by Khuzestani Persian.

Pollution

In 2011, the World Health Organization ranked Ahvaz as the world's most air-polluted city. The reason Ahvaz is so polluted is because of its oil industry. The pollution can be very dangerous, causing different types of diseases, and can harmful to plants.

Transportation

Airport

Ahvaz International Airport (IATA airport code, IATA: AWZ, ICAO airport code, ICAO: OIAW) (Persian language, Persian: فرودگاه بین‌المللی اهواز) is an airport serving the city of Ahvaz, Iran.

Railway

Ahvaz railway station, Ahwaz railway station (''Persian language, Persian:'' ايستگاه راه آهن اهواز, ''Istgah-e Rah Ahan-e Ahvaz'') is located in Ahvaz, Khuzestan Province. * Ahwaz is accessible via freeways from Isfahan and Shiraz, and roadways to Tehran. *Ahvaz Metro, A metro urban railway system is being built by the Ahvaz urban railway. The system is planned to have a total of four lines. Line 1 will be a 23 km underground line with 24 stations.Ahwaz Urban & Suburban Railway Organization
(in Persian)

Sport

Traditionally, Khuzestan province has been a major soccer hub in Iran. The city has two existing sport complexes: Takhti Stadium (Ahwaz), Takhti Stadium and the newly constructed Ghadir Stadium. There are several other smaller complexes for martial arts, swimming pools and gymnasiums. Also, a new privately owned New Foolad Stadium, stadium is currently under construction by Foolad F.C. in Ahvaz.

Football

Association football, Football is a major part of the city's culture. The abundant enthusiasm has made Ahvaz home to three Iranian major Association football, Football clubs: Foolad F.C., Foolad, Esteghlal Meli-Sanati Khuzestan F.C., Esteghlal Khuzestan are currently playing in the Persian Gulf Pro League, and Esteghlal Ahvaz F.C., Esteghlal Ahvaz is playing in Azadegan League. Foolad have won the league on two occasions, the 2013–2014 season and the 2004–2005 season. Esteghlal Ahvaz finished runners–up in the league in the 2006–2007 season. In 2016, Esteghlal Khuzestan F.C., Esteghlal Khuzestan won the league for the first time. A number of other teams such as Foolad Khuzestan B F.C., Foolad B the second team of Foolad and Karun Khuzestan F.C., Karun Khuzestan play in the Iran Football's 2nd Division, 2nd Division.

Futsal

Ahvaz has also two teams in the Iranian Futsal Super League, which are Sherkat Melli Haffari Iran FSC and Gaz Khozestan FSC.

Colleges and universities

Ahvaz is also known for its universities as well as its role in commerce and industry. Ahvaz institutes of higher learning include: * Ahvaz Jundishapur University of Medical Sciences * Petroleum University of Technology * Shahid Chamran University of Ahvaz * Islamic Azad University, Ahvaz Branch *Islamic Azad University - Science & Research Branch, Khuzestan *Institute for Higher Education ACECR Khouzestan *Payame Noor University of Ahvaz *Amiralmoemenin University *Rahnama Institute of Higher Education

Notable people

* Ahmad Mahmoud, Persian novelist * Ali Sajadi Hoseini, filmmaker * Ali Shamkhani, Iranian Minister of Defense (1997–2005) * Amir Taheri, Iranian conservative author * Ezzat Negahban, patriarch of modern Iranian archaeology * Hamed Haddadi, NBA basketball player * Hamid Dabashi, intellectual historian, cultural and literary critic * Hamid Zangeneh, economist, author, and activist * Hossein Kaebi, national football player * Hossein Karimi (bodybuilder), Hossein Karimi, bodybuilder * Jabbar Choheili, Mandaean priest * Jalal Kameli Mofrad, national football player * Manuchehr Shahrokhi, Professor of Finance, California State University; Editor, Global Finance Journal; Executive Director, Global Finance Association-Conference * Meamar, Iranian artist * Mehdi Yarrahi, Iranian Musician * Mehrangiz Kar, human rights activist * Mohammad Ali Mousavi Jazayeri, former Wali-Faqih representative in Khuzestan, former Ahwaz Friday Imam * Mohammad Hossein Adeli, Iranian economist and diplomat * Mohammad-Reza Eskandari, Iran's former Minister of Agriculture * Muhammad ibn Falah, theologian * Parviz Abnar, Iranian Sound recordist * Patrick Monahan (comedian), Patrick Monahan, Irish Iranian comedian * Saleh Hosseini, Translator, Critic, Professor of English Literature * Siavash Ghomayshi, Musician, Singer and Songwriter * Sousan S. Altaie, PhD Scientific Policy Advisor, OIVD CDRH, FDA

Gallery

File:Molanasq.jpg, Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Rumi, Rumi statue File:Eighth Bridge.jpg, The 8th Bridge (Qadir) File:AhwazWhiteBridge.jpg, The White Bridge File:Ahvaz White Bridge1.jpg, White Bridge over Karun river

References

External links

Foolad Ahvaz Football Club
{{Authority control Ardashir I Cities in Khuzestan Province Iranian provincial capitals Populated places in Ahvaz County