Fashion in the 1890s in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by long elegant lines, tall collars, and the rise of

sportswear Sportswear or activewear is clothing, including footwear, worn for sport or physical exercise. Sport-specific clothing is worn for most sports and physical exercise, for practical, comfort or safety reasons. Typical sport-specific garments ...

. It was an era of great dress reforms led by the invention of the drop-frame safety bicycle, which allowed women the opportunity to ride bicycles more comfortably, and therefore, created the need for appropriate clothing. Another great influence on women's fashions of this era, particularly among those considered part of the

Aesthetic Movement Aestheticism (also the Aesthetic movement) was an art movement in the late 19th century which privileged the aesthetic value of literature, music and the arts over their socio-political functions. According to Aestheticism, art should be pro ...

in America, was the political and cultural climate. Because women were taking a more active role in their communities, in the political world, and in society as a whole, their dress reflected this change. The more freedom to experience life outside the home that women of the

Gilded Age In United States history, the Gilded Age was an era extending roughly from 1877 to 1900, which was sandwiched between the Reconstruction era and the Progressive Era. It was a time of rapid economic growth, especially in the Northern and Wes ...

acquired, the more freedom of movement was experienced in fashions as well. As the emphasis on athleticism influenced a change in garments which allowed for freedom of movement, the emphasis on less rigid gender roles influenced a change in dress which allowed for more self-expression, and a more natural silhouette of women's bodies were revealed. The 1890s brought the beginnings of a change in how fashion was presented as well. While illustrations still dominated

fashion magazines Fashion journalism is a component of fashion media, with a focus on writing and photojournalism. Fashion journalists write about fashion events, trends and have to cultivate and maintain a relationship with stylists and designers. A fashion journ ...

, printed fashion photographs first appeared in French magazine

La Mode Pratique La Mode Pratique was a weekly French fashion magazine founded by Caroline de Broutelles in 1891, and published until 1951 by Paris publisher Librairie Hachette et Cie. In 1892, it became the first magazine worldwide to feature fashion photogr ...

in 1892, where they would continue be a weekly feature.

Women's fashions

Fashionable women's clothing styles shed some of the extravagances of previous decades (so that skirts were neither

crinoline A crinoline is a stiff or structured petticoat designed to hold out a woman's skirt, popular at various times since the mid-19th century. Originally, crinoline described a stiff fabric made of horsehair ("crin") and cotton or linen which w ...

d as in the

1850s The 1850s (pronounced "eighteen-fifties") was a decade of the Gregorian calendar that began on January 1, 1850, and ended on December 31, 1859. It was a very turbulent decade, as wars such as the Crimean War, shifted and shook European politi ...

, nor protrudingly

bustle A bustle is a padded undergarment used to add fullness, or support the drapery, at the back of women's dresses in the mid-to-late 19th century. Bustles are worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skirt from dragging. ...

d in back as in the late

1860s The 1860s (pronounced "eighteen-sixties") was a decade of the Gregorian calendar that began on January 1, 1860, and ended on December 31, 1869. The decade was noted for featuring numerous major societal shifts in the Americas. In the United St ...

and mid- 1880s, nor tight as in the late

1870s The 1870s (pronounced "eighteen-seventies") was a decade of the Gregorian calendar that began on January 1, 1870, and ended on December 31, 1879. The trends of the previous decade continued into this one, as new empires, imperialism and militar ...

), but

corset A corset is a support garment commonly worn to hold and train the torso into a desired shape, traditionally a smaller waist or larger bottom, for aesthetic or medical purposes (either for the duration of wearing it or with a more lasting eff ...

ing continued unmitigated, or even slightly increased in severity. Early 1890s dresses consisted of a tight

bodice A bodice () is an article of clothing traditionally for women and girls, covering the torso from the neck to the waist. The term typically refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the 18th century, or to the ...

with the

skirt A skirt is the lower part of a dress or a separate outer garment that covers a person from the waist downwards. At its simplest, a skirt can be a draped garment made out of a single piece of fabric (such as pareos). However, most skirts ar ...

gathered at the waist and falling more naturally over the hips and undergarments than in previous years. Puffy leg-of-mutton sleeves (also known as ''gigot'' sleeves) made a comeback, growing bigger each year until reaching their largest size around 1895. During the mid-1890s, skirts took on an A-line silhouette that was almost bell-like. The late 1890s returned to tighter sleeves often with small puffs or ruffles capping the shoulder but fitted to the wrist. Skirts took on a trumpet shape, fitting more closely over the hip and flaring just above the knee. Corsets in the 1890s helped define the hourglass figure as immortalized by artist

Charles Dana Gibson Charles Dana Gibson (September 14, 1867 – December 23, 1944) was an American illustrator. He was best known for his creation of the Gibson Girl, an iconic representation of the beautiful and independent Euro-American woman at the turn of the ...

. In the very late 1890s, the corset elongated, giving the women a slight S-bend silhouette that would be popular well into the

Edwardian The Edwardian era or Edwardian period of British history spanned the reign of King Edward VII, 1901 to 1910 and is sometimes extended to the start of the First World War. The death of Queen Victoria in January 1901 marked the end of the Victori ...

era.

Sportswear and tailored fashions

Changing attitudes about acceptable activities for women also made sportswear popular for women, with such notable examples as the bicycling dress and the tennis dress. Unfussy,

tailor A tailor is a person who makes or alters clothing, particularly in men's clothing. The Oxford English Dictionary dates the term to the thirteenth century. History Although clothing construction goes back to prehistory, there is evidence of ...

ed clothes, adapted from the earlier theme of men's tailoring and simplicity of form, were worn for outdoor activities and traveling. The

shirtwaist From the early 19th century through the Edwardian period, the word ''waist'' was a term common in the United States for the bodice of a dress or for a blouse or woman's shirt. A shirtwaist was originally a separate blouse constructed like a shirt; ...

, a costume with a

or ''waist'' tailored like a man's shirt with a high collar, was adopted for informal daywear and became the uniform of working women. Walking suits featured ankle-length skirts with matching jackets. The notion of "rational dress" for women's health was a widely discussed topic in 1891, which led to the development of sports dress. This included ample skirts with a belted blouse for hockey. In addition,

cycling Cycling, also, when on a two-wheeled bicycle, called bicycling or biking, is the use of cycles for transport, recreation, exercise or sport. People engaged in cycling are referred to as "cyclists", "bicyclists", or "bikers". Apart from ...

became very popular and led to the development of "cycling costumes", which were shorter skirts or "

bloomers Bloomers, also called the bloomer, the Turkish dress, the American dress, or simply reform dress, are divided women's garments for the lower body. They were developed in the 19th century as a healthful and comfortable alternative to the heavy, ...

" which were Turkish trouser style outfits. By the 1890s, women bicyclists increasingly wore bloomers in public and in the company of men as well as other women. Bloomers seem to have been more commonly worn in Paris than in England or the United States and became quite popular and fashionable. In the United States, bloomers were more intended for exercise than fashion. The rise of American women's college sports in the 1890s created a need for more unencumbered movement than exercise skirts would allow. By the end of the decade, most colleges that admitted women had women's basketball teams, all outfitted in bloomers. Across the nation's campuses, baggy bloomers were paired with blouses to create the first women's gym uniforms. The

rainy daisy A rainy daisy is a style of walking skirt worn during the " Gay Nineties" (1890–1900). The skirts were trimmed to be 2–3 inches off the ground and were worn by members of the "Rainy Day Club". They were so-called because their shorter length mea ...

was a style of walking or sports skirt introduced during this decade, allegedly named after

Daisy Miller ''Daisy Miller'' is a novella by Henry James that first appeared in '' The Cornhill Magazine'' in June–July 1878, and in book form the following year. It portrays the courtship of the beautiful American girl Daisy Miller by Winterbourne, a s ...

, but also named for its practicality in wet weather, as the shorter hemlines did not soak up puddles of water. They were particularly useful for cycling, walking or sporting pursuits as the shorter hems were less likely to catch in the bicycle mechanisms or underfoot, and enabled freer movement. Swimwear was also developed, usually made of navy blue wool with a long tunic over full knickers. Afternoon dresses typical of the time period had high necks, wasp waists, puffed sleeves and bell-shaped skirts. Evening gowns had a squared decolletage, a wasp-waist cut and skirts with long trains.

Influence of aesthetic dress

The 1890s in both Europe and North America saw growing acceptance of artistic or aesthetic dress as mainstream fashion influenced by the philosophies of John Ruskin and William Morris. This was especially seen in the adoption of the uncorseted

tea gown A tea gown or tea-gown is a woman's dress for informal entertaining at home. These dresses, which became popular around the mid-19th century, are characterized by unstructured lines and light fabrics. Early tea gowns were a European development in ...

for at-home wear. In the United States during this period, ''Dress, the Jenness Miller Magazine'' (1887–1898

reported that tea gowns were being worn outside the home for the first time in fashionable summer resorts. Before women acquired a more prominent role outside the home, before they were involved in more community, cultural and political pursuits, a more traditionally Victorian, restrained, and what was considered modest dress dominated. As Mary Blanchard writes in her article in The American History Review, "Boundaries and the Victorian Body: Aesthetic Fashion in Gilded Age America," "Little noticed, but crucial, was a shift in attitudes toward women's fashion in the 1870s and 1880s, a countercultural shift taking place under the aegis of the Aesthetic Movement. At this time, some women used their bodies and their dress as public art forms not only to defy the moral implications of domesticity but to assume cultural agency in their society at large." (Blanchard, page 22)

Hairstyles and headgear

Hairstyles at the start of the decade were simply a carry-over from the 1880s styles that included curled or frizzled bangs over the forehead as well as hair swept to the top of the head, but after 1892, hairstyles became increasingly influenced by the

Gibson Girl The Gibson Girl was the personification of the feminine ideal of physical attractiveness as portrayed by the pen-and-ink illustrations of artist Charles Dana Gibson during a 20-year period that spanned the late 19th and early 20th centuries in th ...

. By the mid-1890s, hair had become looser and wavier and bangs gradually faded from high fashion. By the end of the decade, hair was often worn in a large mass with a bun at the top of the head, a style that would be predominant during the first decade of the 20th century.

Shoes

High tab front shoes with a large buckle had made a comeback in the 1870s and were again revived in the 1890s. This popular style of shoe had a few names such as "Cromwell," "Colonial," and "Molière". At this time materials such as suede, leather, lace and metal were used to fashion the shoe and decorate it. Suede was new to the market in 1890 and was available in a few pale shades.

Athletic wear

The shift toward functional fashion also affected women's athletic wear. Women in Paris began wearing bloomers when bicycling as early as 1893, while in England lower bicycle frames accommodated the dresses that women continued to wear for bicycling. Long floor length dresses gradually gave way to shorter hemlines and a more casual style of athletic clothing. Similarly, bathing suits also became shorter and less covered — yet another example of the beginnings of a shift in dress toward greater freedom and functionality.

Style gallery 1890–1896

Image:Serov Portrait of P Tchaokovskaia.jpg, 1 – 1890–1892 Image:Bathing suit MET 1975.227.6 F.jpg, 2 - 1890-1895 Image:1892 fashion plate.jpg, 3 – 1892 Image:Evening gowns 1892-3.jpg, 4 – 1892–93 Image:Philip Burne-Jones The Visitor.jpg, 5 – 1893 Image:Walking suites 1894 Delineator.jpg, 6 – 1894 File:Ernesto Tornquist, Rosa Altgelt y diez de sus trece hijos.jpg, 7 – 1895 Image:Bicycle suit punch 1895.jpg, 8 – 1895 Image:Natalie Barney in Fur Cape.jpg, 9 – 1896 Image:Charvet adv ht 1896.jpg, 10 - 1896 # Praskovia Tchaokovskaia wears a high-necked afternoon dress with puffed elbow-length sleeves and a fabric belt or sash, Russia, 1890–92. #

Bathing suit A swimsuit is an item of clothing designed to be worn by people engaging in a water-based activity or water sports, such as swimming, diving and surfing, or sun-orientated activities, such as sun bathing. Different types may be worn by men, wom ...

, 1890-1895, nautical fashion : navy color and sailor collar and sleeves # Afternoon dresses of 1892 have low waists and high necklines. Sleeves have a high, gathered sleeve-head and are fitted to the lower arm. Skirts are fuller in back than front. #

Evening gowns An evening gown, evening dress or gown is a long dress usually worn at formal occasions. The drop ranges from ballerina (mid-calf to just above the ankles), tea (above the ankles), to full-length. Such gowns are typically worn with evening g ...

of 1892–3 feature short or elbow-length full, puffed sleeves and floral trimmings. # City or traveling suit has full upper sleeves and back fullness in the skirt. # Walking suits of 1894 show shorter skirts and matching jackets with leg o' mutton sleeves. # Portrait photograph of Ernesto Tornquist and his family, . # ''Punch'' Cartoon of 1895 shows a fashionable bicycle suit. #

Natalie Barney Natalie Clifford Barney (October 31, 1876 – February 2, 1972) was an American writer who hosted a literary salon at her home in Paris that brought together French and international writers. She influenced other authors through her salon and a ...

in 1896 # Charvet advertising in 1896

Style gallery 1897–1899

Image:Carolos-Duran Mother and Children.jpg, 1 – 1897 Image:Sargent John Singer Catherine Vlasto.jpg, 2 – 1897 Image:Lady 1897.gif, 3 – 1897 Image:Badedragter for damer.jpg, 4 – 1898 Image:Gustav Klimt 058.jpg, 5 – 1898 Image:Charvet corsage.jpg, 6 - 1898 Image:Paris waist from Charvet.jpg, 7 - 1898 File:Hattmode våren 1898. Modeplansch. Fabrik för strå- och filthattar. Humlegårdsgatan No 17 - Nordiska Museet - NMA.0032515.jpg, 8 - 1898 Image:Ball gown MET 65.184.65a-b front CP4.jpg, 9 - 1898-1900 Image:Modeart1899.jpg, 10 – 1899 Image:Tea gown 1899.jpg, 11 – 1899 Image:Wiktor Elpidiforowitsch Borissow-Mussatow 002.jpg, 12 – 1899 # Madame Faydou wears her hair in a knot on top of her head. Her black dress and her daughter's grey dress (probably mourning attire) have fashionable leg o' mutton sleeves, 1897. # Catherine Vlasto wears a white dress with puffed elbow-length sleeves and ribbon bows. Her hair is parted in the center and poufed casually at her temples, 1897. # 1897 fashion plate shows an idealized form of the fashionable figure. The jacket has an asymmetrical closure and new, smaller sleeve puffs. # Bathing costumes of 1898 have nautical details such as sailor collars. # Dress of 1898 shows a short, wide puff at the shoulder over a long, tight sleeve. # Charvet corsage of 1898 shows a corsage by Charvet. It is a blouse of pink cambric finely plaited, and with a white cascade frill, also of cambric, down the center. # Shirt-waist from Charvet in 1898 shows a shirt-waist from Charvet. It has a group of tucks down either side of the front and back from the shoulders, and in addition has two deep horizontal tucks across the front. A broad box-pleat at the centre is edged with a tiny black frill, which is also carried around the basque. The sleeves are tucked in diagonal groups. #

Hats A hat is a head covering which is worn for various reasons, including protection against weather conditions, ceremonial reasons such as university graduation, religious reasons, safety, or as a fashion accessory. Hats which incorporate mech ...

from manufacturers spring collection #

Ball gown A ball gown, ballgown or gown is a type of evening gown worn to a ball or a formal event. Most versions are cut off the shoulder with a low décolletage, exposed arms, and long bouffant styled skirts. Such gowns are typically worn with an opera- ...

(1898-1900) designed by one of the finest French couturiers during the

Belle Époque The Belle Époque or La Belle Époque (; French for "Beautiful Epoch") is a period of French and European history, usually considered to begin around 1871–1880 and to end with the outbreak of World War I in 1914. Occurring during the era ...

, Jacques Doucet, with characteristics of the aesthetic dress movement : "simplistic in design, yet extravagant by the choice of materials used. The sheer overlayer is enhanced by the solid lamé underlayers and a sense of luxury is added by the hidden lace flounce at the hem."Ball gown
on Metropolitan Museum of Art. # 1899 fashion plate shows the narrow, gored skirt and more natural shoulder of the start of the 20th century (as well as the results of "S-bend" corseting). #

Tea Gown A tea gown or tea-gown is a woman's dress for informal entertaining at home. These dresses, which became popular around the mid-19th century, are characterized by unstructured lines and light fabrics. Early tea gowns were a European development in ...

of 1899 shows "Watteau back" and frothy trim. #

Two women ''Two Women'' ( it, La ciociara , rough literal translation "The Woman from Ciociaria") is a 1960 war drama film directed by Vittorio De Sica from a screenplay by Cesare Zavattini and De Sica, based on the novel of the same name by Alberto ...

in Watteau-backed tea gowns with high sashed waists, 1899.

Cartoons

Image:Bloomer-Club-cigars-satire-p-adv054.JPG, Cigar box art Image:Novelty in sleeves (Punch magazine cartoon 1895).jpg, Cartoon mocking sleeve designs suggesting that new styles could be modeled on cricket bats, hot air balloons, or tennis rackets. Image:Ellimans-Universal-Embrocation-Slough-1897-Ad.png, 1897 advertisement showing woman with unskirted garments for bicycle riding

Men's fashion

The overall silhouette of the 1890s was long, lean, and athletic. Hair was generally worn short, often with a pointed beard and generous moustache.

Coats, jackets, and trousers

By the 1890s, the sack coat (UK lounge coat) was fast replacing the

frock coat A frock coat is a formal men's coat characterised by a knee-length skirt cut all around the base just above the knee, popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s–1910s). It is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a centre vent at th ...

for most informal and semi-formal occasions. Three-piece suits ("

ditto suit A man's suit (clothing), suit of clothes, in the sense of a lounge or business or office suit, is a set of garments which are crafted from the same cloth. This article discusses the history of the lounge suit, often called a business suit when featu ...

s") consisting of a sack coat with matching

waistcoat A waistcoat ( UK and Commonwealth, or ; colloquially called a weskit), or vest ( US and Canada), is a sleeveless upper-body garment. It is usually worn over a dress shirt and necktie and below a coat as a part of most men's formal wear. ...

(U.S. ''vest'') and

trousers Trousers (British English), slacks, or pants are an item of clothing worn from the waist to anywhere between the knees and the ankles, covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth extending across both legs as in robes, skirts, and ...

were worn, as were matching coat and waistcoat with contrasting trousers. Contrasting waistcoats were popular, and could be made with or without collars and lapels. The usual style was single-breasted. The

blazer A blazer is a type of jacket resembling a suit jacket, but cut more casually. A blazer is generally distinguished from a sport coat as a more formal garment and tailored from solid colour fabrics. Blazers often have naval-style metal buttons ...

, a navy blue or brightly colored or striped

flannel Flannel is a soft woven fabric, of various fineness. Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but is now often made from either wool, cotton, or synthetic fiber. Flannel is commonly used to make tartan clothing, blankets, ...

coat cut like a sack coat with patch pockets and brass buttons, was worn for sports, sailing, and other casual activities. The

Norfolk jacket A Norfolk jacket is a loose, belted, single-breasted tweed jacket with box pleats on the back and front, with a belt or half-belt. It was originally designed as a shooting coat that did not bind when the elbow was raised to fire. Its origin is u ...

remained fashionable for shooting and rugged outdoor pursuits. It was made of sturdy tweed or similar fabric and featured paired box pleats over the chest and back, with a fabric belt. Worn with matching

breeches Breeches ( ) are an article of clothing covering the body from the waist down, with separate coverings for each leg, usually stopping just below the knee, though in some cases reaching to the ankles. Formerly a standard item of Western men's c ...

(or U.S. knickerbockers), it became the ''Norfolk suit'', suitable for bicycling or golf with knee-length stockings and low shoes, or for hunting with sturdy boots or shoes with leather

gaiters Gaiters are garments worn over the shoe and bottom of the pant or trouser leg, and used primarily as personal protective equipment; similar garments used primarily for display are spats. Originally, gaiters were made of leather or canvas. ...

. The cutaway

morning coat A tailcoat is a knee-length coat characterised by a rear section of the skirt, known as the ''tails'', with the front of the skirt cut away. The tailcoat shares its historical origins in clothes cut for convenient horse riding in the Early Mode ...

was still worn for formal day occasions in Europe and major cities elsewhere. The most formal evening dress remained a dark tail coat and trousers with a dark or light waistcoat. Evening wear was worn with a white bow tie and a shirt with a winged collar. The less formal

dinner jacket Black tie is a semi-formal Western dress code for evening events, originating in British and American conventions for attire in the 19th century. In British English, the dress code is often referred to synecdochically by its principal element ...

tuxedo Black tie is a semi-formal Western dress code for evening events, originating in British and American conventions for attire in the 19th century. In British English, the dress code is often referred to synecdochically by its principal element ...

, which featured a shawl collar with silk or satin facings, now generally had a single button. Dinner jackets were appropriate formal wear when "dressing for dinner" at home or at a men's club. The dinner jacket was worn with a white shirt and a dark tie. Knee-length topcoats, often with contrasting velvet or fur collars, and calf-length

overcoat An overcoat is a type of long coat intended to be worn as the outermost garment, which usually extends below the knee. Overcoats are most commonly used in winter when warmth is more important. They are sometimes confused with or referred to as ...

s were worn in winter.

Shirts and neckties

Shirt collars were turned over or pressed into "wings", and became taller through the decade. Dress shirts had stiff fronts, sometimes decorated with

shirt stud A shirt stud is a decorative fastener that fits onto a buttonhole on the front of a pleated shirt, or onto the starched bib of a stiff-front shirt. Such shirts have special buttonholes solely for shirt studs. A shirt stud may be fashioned from all ...

s and buttoned up the back. Striped shirts were popular for informal occasions. The usual

necktie A necktie, or simply a tie, is a piece of cloth worn for decorative purposes around the neck, resting under the shirt collar and knotted at the throat, and often draped down the chest. Variants include the ascot, bow, bolo, zipper tie, crav ...

was a four-in-hand or an

Ascot tie An ascot tie or ascot is a neckband with wide pointed wings, traditionally made of pale grey patterned silk. This wide tie is usually patterned, folded over, and fastened with a tie pin or tie clip. It is usually reserved for formal wear with mo ...

, made up as a neckband with wide wings attached and worn with a stickpin, but the 1890s also saw the return of the

bow tie The bow tie is a type of necktie. A modern bow tie is tied using a common shoelace knot, which is also called the bow knot for that reason. It consists of a ribbon of fabric tied around the collar of a shirt in a symmetrical manner so that t ...

(in various proportions) for day dress.

Accessories

As earlier in the century,

top hat A top hat (also called a high hat, a cylinder hat, or, informally, a topper) is a tall, flat-crowned hat for men traditionally associated with formal wear in Western dress codes, meaning white tie, morning dress, or frock coat. Traditional ...

s remained a requirement for upper class formal wear; bowlers and soft felt hats in a variety of shapes were worn for more casual occasions, and flat straw boaters were worn for yachting and at the seashore.

Style gallery

Image:Giovanni Boldini (1842-1931) - A Portrait of John Singer Sargent.jpg, 1 – c. 1890 Image:Giovanni Boldini (1842-1931) -John Singer Sargent(Standing).jpg, 2 – c. 1890 Image:Oscar Wilde 3.jpg, 3 – 1890s Image:Frederick Law Olmsted.jpg, 4 – 1895 Image:Du Maurier Spy.jpg, 5 – 1896 Image:Tissot self detail.jpg, 6 – 1898 File:William Beveridge at Balliol 1898, cropped.jpg, 7 - 1898 #

Painter Painting is the practice of applying paint, pigment, color or other medium to a solid surface (called the "matrix" or "support"). The medium is commonly applied to the base with a brush, but other implements, such as knives, sponges, and ...

John Singer Sargent John Singer Sargent (; January 12, 1856 – April 14, 1925) was an American expatriate artist, considered the "leading portrait painter of his generation" for his evocations of Edwardian-era luxury. He created roughly 900 oil paintings and more ...

in formal evening dress, c. 1890. # Another portrait of Sargent, in day dress: dark coat and waistcoat, dark red ascot, and tall collar, c. 1890. This picture shows the long, lean silhouette in fashion at this time. #

Oscar Wilde Oscar Fingal O'Flahertie Wills Wilde (16 October 185430 November 1900) was an Irish poet and playwright. After writing in different forms throughout the 1880s, he became one of the most popular playwrights in London in the early 1890s. He is ...

wears a

with a

pocket square A handkerchief (; also called a hankie or, historically, a handkercher or a ) is a form of a kerchief or bandanna, typically a hemmed square of thin fabric which can be carried in the pocket or handbag for personal hygiene purposes such as wip ...

, 1890s. #

Frederick Law Olmsted Frederick Law Olmsted (April 26, 1822August 28, 1903) was an American landscape architect, journalist, social critic, and public administrator. He is considered to be the father of landscape architecture in the USA. Olmsted was famous for co- ...

wears a tan topcoat over a gray suit, 1895. #

George du Maurier George Louis Palmella Busson du Maurier (6 March 1834 – 8 October 1896) was a Franco-British cartoonist and writer known for work in ''Punch'' and a Gothic novel ''Trilby'', featuring the character Svengali. His son was the actor Sir Gerald ...

wears a double-breasted waistcoat with a shawl collar under his sack coat, with grey trousers. He wears square-toed shoes with spats, 1896. # Country clothes:

James Tissot Jacques Joseph Tissot (; 15 October 1836 – 8 August 1902), anglicized as James Tissot (), was a French painter and illustrator. He was a successful painter of fashionable, modern scenes and society life in Paris before moving to London in 1871 ...

wears breeches and high boots with a reddish collared waistcoat and a brown coat. Even with this casual outdoor costume, he wears a tie, 1898. # College fashion includes a straw boater.

William Beveridge William Henry Beveridge, 1st Baron Beveridge, (5 March 1879 – 16 March 1963) was a British economist and Liberal politician who was a progressive and social reformer who played a central role in designing the British welfare state. His 1942 ...

at Balliol, 1898.

Children's fashion

File:Klas_van_Aagje_en_Jacob_Olie_Jacob_Olie_(max_res).jpg, Group of children, 1890 File:Dora by Kate Perugini.jpg, Girl with jump rope, 1892 Image:Chase William Merritt Ring Toss 1896.jpg, Girls, 1896 Image:TheLadiessWorldNovember1897page15.gif, Girls' fashions, 1897 Image:P S Krøyer 1897 - Døtrene Benzon.jpg, Girls, 1897 Image:Young girl I.jpg, A girl with a doll, 1898 File:Sigrid Juselius.jpg, Sigrid Juselius, 1898

Working clothes

File:XIT cowboys.jpg, Cowboys in Texas, 1891 File:Vallotton Die Kranke 1892 detail.png, Maid, 1892 Image:PUK1894p341.jpg, Townswoman and fisherwoman, 1894 Image:PUK1894page380rector_poor.jpg, Rector and drinker, 1894

Notes

Reforming Fashion 1850-1914

References

* Arnold, Janet: ''Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their Construction C.1860–1940'', Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977. * Ashelford, Jane: ''The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500–1914'', Abrams, 1996. * Blanchard, Mary. "The American History Review: Boundaries and the Victorian Body: Aesthetic Fashion in Gilded Age America," Oxford University Press, 1995. Vol. 100, No. 1, pp. 21-50 * Nunn, Joan: ''Fashion in Costume, 1200–2000,'' 2nd edition, A & C Black (Publishers) Ltd; Chicago: New Amsterdam Books, 2000. (Excerpts online a
The Victorian Web
* Payne, Blanche: ''History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the 20th century'', Harper & Row, 1965. No ISBN for this edition; ASIN B0006BMNFS * Norris, Herbert, and Oswald Curtis. ''19th Century Costume and Fashion'', Mineola, New York: Dover Publications, INC., 1998. 227–229. * Steele, Valerie: ''Paris Fashion: A Cultural History'', Second Edition. New York: Berg, 1998. 175–176. * Warner, Patricia. "When the girls came out to play: The birth of American sportswear" Amherst: University of Massachusetts Press, 2006. ,

Fashion Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. The term implies a look defined by the fash ...

1890s decade overviews Gilded Age