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Lhotse Shar
Lhotse Shar is a subsidiary mountain of Lhotse, at high. It was first climbed by Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter on 12 May 1970. Climbing routes and dangers Lhotse Shar is located far from the main summit's standard route of ascent via the South Col. As Lhotse's central summits are themselves extremely difficult climbs and make a traverse to the Shar along the main ridge impractical, most climbers instead opt for the most direct route of ascent, up Lhotse's south face. This exceptionally steep and hazardous route has been the site of many fatalities; indeed, of Lhotse's documented deaths as of 2021, a third (11 of 31) have occurred on Lhotse Shar. It has the highest fatality rate of all principal or secondary eight-thousander summits – for every two people who summit the mountain, one person dies attempting to. The mountain's extreme height further compounds the danger: At 8,383 meters above sea level, it is 292 meters (958 feet) higher than Annapurna I Main, the next-deadliest sum ...
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Eight-thousander
The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) recognises eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and, since 2012, the UIAA has been involved in a process to consider whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountains. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits are in the death zone. From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021). On a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is consistently Annapurna I (one death – climber or climber support – for ...
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Eight-thousanders Of The Himalayas
The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) recognises eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and, since 2012, the UIAA has been involved in a process to consider whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountains. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits are in the death zone. From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021). On a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is consistently Annapurna I (one death – climber or climber support – for eve ...
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Eiger Dreams
''Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men and Mountains'' is a non-fiction collection of articles and essays by Jon Krakauer on mountaineering and rock climbing. Eleven out of twelve of the chapters were initially published between 1982 and 1989 in the magazines '' Outside'', '' Smithsonian'', and ''New Age Journal''. Overview It concerns a variety of topics, from ascending the Eiger ''Nordwand'' in the Swiss Alps, Denali in Alaska or K2 in the Karakoram, to the well-known rock climber Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and ...s Jon Krakauer has met on his trips, such as John Gill, Adrian Popovich or the Burgess brothers Chapters of the book * "Eiger Dreams" * "Gill" * "Valdez Ice" * "On Being Tentbound" * "The Flyboys of Talkeetna" * "Club Denali" * "Chamonix" * "Canyon ...
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Ventures Among Men And Mountains
Venture may refer to: Arts and entertainment Music *The Ventures, an American instrumental rock band formed in 1958 *"A Venture", 1971 song by the band Yes *''Venture'', a 2010 EP by AJR Games * ''Venture'' (video game), a 1981 arcade game *''Venture'', a strategic card game by Sid Sackson Film * SS ''Venture'', a ship in ''King Kong'' and its 2005 remake * SS ''Venture'', an InGen-owned ship featured in '' The Lost World: Jurassic Park'' Other uses * ''Venture'' (TV series), a Canadian business television show Magazines * ''Venture Science Fiction'', defunct US science fiction magazine * ''Venture'' (magazine), a management magazine Business * Business venture * Venture (department store), a defunct discount department store operating across Australia * Venture Corporation, a Singapore firm * Venture Stores, a former retail chain Transportation * Chevrolet Venture, a General Motors minivan * Yamaha Venture, Yamaha touring motorcycles * Siemens Venture, fami ...
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Jon Krakauer
Jon Krakauer (born April 12, 1954) is an American writer and mountaineer. He is the author of bestselling non-fiction books—'' Into the Wild''; ''Into Thin Air''; ''Under the Banner of Heaven''; and '' Where Men Win Glory: The Odyssey of Pat Tillman''—as well as numerous magazine articles. He was a member of an ill-fated expedition to summit Mount Everest in 1996, one of the deadliest disasters in the history of climbing Everest. Early life Krakauer was born in Brookline, Massachusetts, as the third of five children of Carol Ann (née Jones) and Lewis Joseph Krakauer. His father was Jewish and his mother was a Unitarian, of Scandinavian descent. He was raised in Corvallis, Oregon. His father introduced the young Krakauer to mountaineering at the age of eight. His father was "relentlessly competitive and ambitious in the extreme" and placed high expectations on Krakauer, wishing for his son to attend Harvard Medical School and become a doctor. Krakauer wrote that this wa ...
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Le Monde
''Le Monde'' (; ) is a French daily afternoon newspaper. It is the main publication of Le Monde Group and reported an average circulation of 323,039 copies per issue in 2009, about 40,000 of which were sold abroad. It has had its own website since 19 December 1995, and is often the only French newspaper easily obtainable in non-French-speaking countries. It is considered one of the French newspapers of record, along with '' Libération'', and '' Le Figaro''. It should not be confused with the monthly publication '' Le Monde diplomatique'', of which ''Le Monde'' has 51% ownership, but which is editorially independent. A Reuters Institute poll in 2021 in France found that "''Le Monde'' is the most trusted national newspaper". ''Le Monde'' was founded by Hubert Beuve-Méry at the request of Charles de Gaulle (as Chairman of the Provisional Government of the French Republic) on 19 December 1944, shortly after the Liberation of Paris, and published continuously since its first ed ...
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Nicolas Jaeger
Nicolas Jaeger (20 October 1946 – 27 April 1980) was a French physician and alpinist. Early life Jaeger was born on 20 October 1946 in Boulogne-Billancourt, France, the son of photographer Janine Niépce. He made more than 100 solo ascents in the Mont Blanc massif, including more than a dozen first ascents. Career Jaeger became a mountain guide in 1975. On 15 October 1978, he participated in the first French ascent of Mount Everest. The team leader was Pierre Mazeaud. Other team members included Jean Afanassieff and Kurt Diemberger. Jaeger and Afanassieff were the first to climb and then ski down one of the 14 mountains on Earth higher than . From 27 July to 27 September 1979, he spent 60 days alone at altitude on Huascarán to study the effects of "super-acclimatisation" on himself. He published an account of his experience in ''Carnets de Solitude'' the same year. On 27 April 1980, Jaeger was seen for the last time at altitude during an attempted ascent of Lhotse ...
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Death Zone
In mountaineering, the death zone refers to altitudes above a certain point where the pressure of oxygen is insufficient to sustain human life for an extended time span. This point is generally tagged as , less than 356 millibars of atmospheric pressure). The concept was conceived in 1953 by Edouard Wyss-Dunant, a Swiss doctor, who called it the lethal zone. All 14 peaks above 8000 m in the death zone are located in the Himalaya and Karakoram of Asia. Many deaths in high-altitude mountaineering have been caused by the effects of the death zone, either directly by loss of vital functions or indirectly by wrong decisions made under stress, or physical weakening leading to accidents. An extended stay above without supplementary oxygen will result in deterioration of bodily functions and death. Physiological background The human body has optimal endurance below elevation. The concentration of oxygen (O2) in air is 20.9% so the partial pressure of O2 (PO2) at sea level is abo ...
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Annapurna
Annapurna (; ne, अन्नपूर्ण) is a mountain situated in the Annapurna mountain range of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal. It is the tenth highest mountain in the world at above sea level and is well known for the difficulty and danger involved in its ascent. Maurice Herzog led a French expedition to its summit through the north face in 1950, making it the first eight-thousand meter peak ever successfully climbed. The entire massif and surrounding area are protected within the Annapurna Conservation Area, the first and largest conservation area in Nepal. The Annapurna Conservation Area is home to several world-class treks, including Annapurna Sanctuary and Annapurna Circuit. For decades, Annapurna I Main held the highest fatality-to-summit rate of all principal eight-thousander summits; it has, however, seen great climbing successes in recent years, with the fatality rate falling from 32% to just under 20% from 2012 to 2022. This figure places it ...
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South Col
The South Col is a sharp-edged col between Mount Everest and Lhotse, the highest and fourth-highest mountains in the world, respectively. The South Col is typically swept by high winds, leaving it free of significant snow accumulation. Since 1950 (when Tibet was closed), most Everest expeditions have left from Nepal and gone via the southeast ridge and the South Col (instead of via the North Col). When climbers attempt to climb Everest from the southeast ridge in Nepal, their final camp (usually Camp IV) is situated on the South Col. The South Col was first reached on 12 May 1952 by Aubert, Lambert, and Flory of Edouard Wyss-Dunant's Swiss Mount Everest Expedition that failed to reach the summit. The following year, when Mount Everest was first climbed, Wilfrid Noyce and the Sherpa Annullu were the first climbers on the expedition to reach the col. According to John Hunt, the expedition leader: Once on the South Col, climbers have entered the death zone; altitude sickne ...
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Nepal
Nepal (; ne, नेपाल ), formerly the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal ( ne, सङ्घीय लोकतान्त्रिक गणतन्त्र नेपाल ), is a landlocked country in South Asia. It is mainly situated in the Himalayas, but also includes parts of the Indo-Gangetic Plain, bordering the Tibet Autonomous Region of China to the north, and India in the south, east, and west, while it is narrowly separated from Bangladesh by the Siliguri Corridor, and from Bhutan by the Indian state of Sikkim. Nepal has a diverse geography, including fertile plains, subalpine forested hills, and eight of the world's ten tallest mountains, including Mount Everest, the highest point on Earth. Nepal is a multi-ethnic, multi-lingual, multi-religious and multi-cultural state, with Nepali as the official language. Kathmandu is the nation's capital and the largest city. The name "Nepal" is first recorded in texts from the Vedic period of the I ...
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