A trench coat or trenchcoat is a variety of coat made of
waterproof heavy-duty fabric,
originally developed for British Army officers before the
First World War
World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was List of wars and anthropogenic disasters by death toll, one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, ...
, and becoming popular while used in the
trenches.
Originally made from
gabardine, a
worsted wool fabric
waterproofed using
lanolin before weaving, the traditional colour of a trench coat was
khaki.
Traditionally trench coats are
double-breasted with 10 front buttons, wide lapels, a storm flap, and pockets that button-close.
The coat is belted at the waist with a self-belt, with
raglan sleeves ending in cuff straps around the wrists that also buckle, to keep water from running down the forearm when using binoculars in the rain. The coat often has epaulets that button-close, which were functional in a military context.
The trench coat was typically worn as a
windbreaker
A windbreaker, or a windcheater, is a thin fabric jacket designed to resist wind chill and light rain, making it a lighter version of the jacket. It is usually of lightweight construction and characteristically made of a synthetic material. ...
or as a rain jacket, and not for sole protection from the cold in winter. Although many come with removable wool liners for additional warmth, they are usually not as warm as an overcoat. Period advertisements from the First World War reveal that the trench coat was sized to wear over the
British Warm, to offer water protection when the temperature was cold enough to require the heavier coat, which explains the traditionally generous sizing of trench coats. Makers in recent years have resized trench coats downwards to conform more closely to overcoat sizing, as two coats would rarely be worn together today.
Popularised by film stars such as
Humphrey Bogart, and
Peter Sellers in the
Pink Panther
''The Pink Panther'' is an American media franchise primarily focusing on a series of comedy-mystery films featuring an inept French police detective, Inspector Jacques Clouseau. The franchise began with the release of the classic film ''The Pi ...
films, the trench coat has become a fashion staple, available in many colours, through brands such as
Burberry.
History
First World War
The trench coat was developed as an alternative to the heavy
serge Serge may refer to:
*Serge (fabric), a type of twill fabric
*Serge (llama) (born 2005), a llama in the Cirque Franco-Italien and internet meme
*Serge (name), a masculine given name (includes a list of people with this name)
*Serge (post), a hitchi ...
greatcoat
A greatcoat, also known as a watchcoat, is a large overcoat that is typically made of wool designed for warmth and protection against the weather. Its collar and cuffs can be turned out to protect the face and hands from cold and rain, and the ...
s worn by British and French soldiers in the
First World War
World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was List of wars and anthropogenic disasters by death toll, one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, ...
. Invention of the trench coat is claimed by two British luxury clothing manufacturers,
Burberry and
Aquascutum
Aquascutum was a British-based luxury goods, luxury clothing manufacturer and retailer. It is currently owned by Shandong Ruyi.
History
Aquascutum was established in 1851, the year of the Great Exhibition, when tailor and entrepreneur John Emar ...
, with Aquascutum's claim dating back to the 1850s.
Thomas Burberry
Thomas Burberry (27 August 1835 – 4 April 1926) was an English gentlemen's outfitter, and the founder of international chain Burberry, one of Britain's largest branded clothing businesses. He is also known as the inventor of gabardine.
Early l ...
had invented
gabardine fabric in 1879 and submitted a design for a
British Army
The British Army is the principal land warfare force of the United Kingdom, a part of the British Armed Forces along with the Royal Navy and the Royal Air Force. , the British Army comprises 79,380 regular full-time personnel, 4,090 Gurkha ...
officer's raincoat to the
War Office in 1901.
The trench coat became an optional item of dress in the British Army, and was obtained by private purchase by officers and Warrant Officers Class I who were under no obligation to own them.
No other ranks were permitted to wear them. Another optional item was the British Warm, a wool coat similar to the greatcoat that was shorter in length, also worn by British officers and Warrant Officers Class I as an optional piece.
During the First World War, the design of the trench coat was modified to include epaulettes and
D-ring
A D-ring is a D-shaped metal ring used primarily as a lashing point in a tie-down system. Depending on their function D-rings may vary in composition, geometry, weight, finish, and load capacity. They may be screwed or welded in place, or attach ...
s. The shoulder straps were for the attachment of epaulettes or other rank insignia; the D-ring was originally used for attaching map cases, swords, or other equipment to the belt, and there is a popular myth that it was for the attachment of hand grenades.
This latter design was dubbed "trench coat" by the soldiers in the front line. Many trench coats had large pockets for maps, and cleverly placed flaps and vents to deal with the odour associated with earlier rubber coats.
A range of waterproof coats was designed and sold during wartime that incorporated War Office requirements with traditional aspects of leisurewear. What became known as the "trench coat" combined the features of a military waterproof cape and the regulation greatcoat designed for British officers.
Many
veterans returning to civilian life kept the coats, which became fashionable for both men and women.
Second World War
During the
Second World War
World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposi ...
, officers of the United Kingdom continued to use the trench coat on the battlefield in inclement weather. Other nations also developed trench coat style jackets, notably the
United States
The United States of America (U.S.A. or USA), commonly known as the United States (U.S. or US) or America, is a country Continental United States, primarily located in North America. It consists of 50 U.S. state, states, a Washington, D.C., ...
and the
Soviet Union
The Soviet Union,. officially the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics. (USSR),. was a transcontinental country that spanned much of Eurasia from 1922 to 1991. A flagship communist state, it was nominally a federal union of fifteen nationa ...
, and other armies of continental Europe such as
Belgium
Belgium, ; french: Belgique ; german: Belgien officially the Kingdom of Belgium, is a country in Northwestern Europe. The country is bordered by the Netherlands to the north, Germany to the east, Luxembourg to the southeast, France to ...
,
France
France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of Overseas France, overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic Ocean, Atlantic, Pacific Ocean, Pac ...
,
Germany
Germany,, officially the Federal Republic of Germany, is a country in Central Europe. It is the second most populous country in Europe after Russia, and the most populous member state of the European Union. Germany is situated betwee ...
,
Greece
Greece,, or , romanized: ', officially the Hellenic Republic, is a country in Southeast Europe. It is situated on the southern tip of the Balkans, and is located at the crossroads of Europe, Asia, and Africa. Greece shares land borders wi ...
, the
Netherlands
)
, anthem = ( en, "William of Nassau")
, image_map =
, map_caption =
, subdivision_type = Sovereign state
, subdivision_name = Kingdom of the Netherlands
, established_title = Before independence
, established_date = Spanish Netherl ...
,
Poland
Poland, officially the Republic of Poland, is a country in Central Europe. It is divided into 16 administrative provinces called voivodeships, covering an area of . Poland has a population of over 38 million and is the fifth-most populou ...
(and are often seen in war zone photographs in the 1939-40 era, even worn by troops on the attack), although as the war progressed, in the field shorter "field jackets" became more popular, including garments such as the
Denison smock
The Denison smock was a coverall jacket issued to Special Operations Executive (SOE) agents, the Parachute Regiment, the Glider Pilot Regiment, Air Landing Regiments, Air Observation Post Squadrons, Commando units, and other Commonwealth air ...
used by
British commandos,
paratroopers, and
snipers and the
M1941/
M1943 field jackets used by the
US Army. These garments were shorter and more practical than the trench coat, and as such they allowed the wearer to be more mobile.
Later
Trench coats have remained fashionable in the decades following the Second World War. Their original role as part of an army officer's uniform lent the trench coat a businesslike respectability, although many prefer to tie the belt in front (rather than use the buckle) to project a more casual look than strict military dress.
Humphrey Bogart's
Rick Blaine from ''
Casablanca'' and
Peter Sellers'
Inspector Clouseau wore the trench coat in the public eye. Often, a
fedora or an
ushanka (during colder weather) was also worn. In the 1960s, radical intellectuals wore trench coats over black
turtleneck sweater
A polo neck, roll-neck (United Kingdom, South Africa), turtleneck (United States, Canada), or skivvy ( Australia, New Zealand, United States) is a garment—usually a sweater—with a close-fitting collar that folds over and covers the ...
s, while some
Mods wore trench coats as fashionable overcoats, as an alternative to the
fishtail parka or
Crombie.
Streakers and
flashers often prefer trench coats since they conceal the wearers’ lack of undergarments and can be opened quickly when the exhibitionists are ready to expose themselves.
While similar, the
heavy metal and
Goth fashion trend of black oilcloth
dusters are incorrectly referred to as trench coats. Early media reports of the 1999
Columbine High School massacre initially associated the perpetrators (
Eric Harris and Dylan Klebold
Eric David Harris (April 9, 1981 – April 20, 1999) and Dylan Bennet Klebold (; September 11, 1981 – April 20, 1999) were an American mass murder duo who perpetrated the Columbine High School massacre on April 20, 1999. Harris and Klebol ...
) with members of the "
Trenchcoat Mafia", a group of outliers who allegedly wore conspicuous black Australian oilcloth dusters. In the copycat
W. R. Myers High School shooting days later, it was rumoured the shooter had worn a trench coat. In the wake of these incidents, many public schools in the US forbade students from wearing trench coats, both because of their cultural associations and on the grounds that they could be used to conceal weapons.
Popular culture
*''
Doctor Who'' involved trench coats being worn by
the Doctor during their
fourth,
war,
thirteenth, and
fourteenth incarnations. One was also worn by
Sacha Dhawan's version of
the Master when posing as a Nazi on the episode ''
Spyfall''. Some were also worn by their companion
Sarah Jane Smith
Sarah Jane Smith is a fictional character played by Elisabeth Sladen in the long-running BBC Television science fiction on television, science fiction series ''Doctor Who'' and two of Doctor Who spin-offs, its spin-offs. Sarah Jane is a dogged in ...
in
The Sarah Jane Adventures, and also by
Amy Pond in the episode ''
Vincent and the Doctor'' and
Tegan Jovanka
Tegan Jovanka is a fictional character played by Janet Fielding in the long-running British science fiction television series ''Doctor Who''. An Australian airline stewardess and a native of Brisbane who was a companion of the Fourth and Fifth ...
in the episode ''
The Power of the Doctor
"The Power of the Doctor" is the third and final of the 2022 specials of the British science fiction television programme ''Doctor Who'', and was broadcast on BBC One on 23 October 2022. The episode was ordered for the occasion of the 100th anni ...
''.
*Trenchcoats were worn by
the title character of
Sherlock.
*The movie version of the ''
Harry Potter'' franchise featured trench coats worn by
Hermione Granger.
*The
Marvel Cinematic Universe
The Marvel Cinematic Universe (MCU) is an American media franchise and shared universe centered on a series of superhero films produced by Marvel Studios. The films are based on characters that appear in American comic books published ...
features
Colonel
Colonel (abbreviated as Col., Col or COL) is a senior military officer rank used in many countries. It is also used in some police forces and paramilitary organizations.
In the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, a colonel was typically in charge ...
Nick Fury wearing a single-breasted trench coat of black leather. The film ''
Captain America: The First Avenger'' features
Obergruppenführer/
Lieutenant General
Lieutenant general (Lt Gen, LTG and similar) is a three-star military rank (NATO code OF-8) used in many countries. The rank traces its origins to the Middle Ages, where the title of lieutenant general was held by the second-in-command on th ...
Johann Schmidt wearing black leather trench coats during
World War 2.
* A brown trench coat is worn by the demonic hero
Hellboy
Hellboy is a fictional superhero created by writer-artist Mike Mignola. The character first appeared in ''San Diego Comic-Con Comics'' #2 (August 1993), and has since appeared in various eponymous miniseries, one-shots and intercompany crossover ...
.
* Trench coats were worn by
Captain Blackadder,
Lieutenant George,
Baldrick, Captain
Darling,
General
A general officer is an officer of high rank in the armies, and in some nations' air forces, space forces, and marines or naval infantry.
In some usages the term "general officer" refers to a rank above colonel."general, adj. and n.". O ...
Melchett,
Squadron Leader Lord Flashheart, and
The Red Baron.
* ''
Transformers: Age of Extinction'' and ''
Transformers: The Last Knight'' features Crosshairs, a cocky Autobot
paratrooper and
sniper wearing a green trench coat which enables him to fly with help from
parachutes.
* ''
X-Men Origins: Wolverine'' features
Sabretooth wearing a black trench coat.
* Two versions of
the Joker wore purple trench coats on ''
The Dark Knight'' and ''
Suicide Squad''.
* In the 1989 teen movie
Say Anything..., main character Lloyd Dobler (played by
John Cusack) famously wore a brown trench coat.
See also
*
Coat (clothing)
*
War Doctor
The War Doctor is an incarnation of the Doctor, the protagonist of the BBC science fiction television programme ''Doctor Who''. He was portrayed by the English actor John Hurt. Although he precedes Christopher Eccleston's Ninth Doctor in the ...
*
Fourth Doctor
*
Thirteenth Doctor
*
World War 1
*
World War 2
*
The Cold War
References
External links
*
{{DEFAULTSORT:Trench Coat
Coats (clothing)
History of clothing (Western fashion)
History of fashion