Charmeuse (), from the French word for female charmer, is a lightweight

fabric Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not ...

woven with a satin weave, in which the

warp Warp, warped or warping may refer to: Arts and entertainment Books and comics * WaRP Graphics, an alternative comics publisher * ''Warp'' (First Comics), comic book series published by First Comics based on the play ''Warp!'' * Warp (comics), a ...

threads cross over four or more of the backing (

weft Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the transverse weft (sometimes woof) is dra ...

) threads. These float threads give the front of the fabric a smooth, shiny finish, whereas the back has a dull finish. Charmeuse differs from plain satin in that charmeuse has a different ratio of float (face) threads, and is of a lighter weight. Charmeuse may be made of

silk Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from th ...

polyester Polyester is a category of polymers that contain the ester functional group in every repeat unit of their main chain. As a specific material, it most commonly refers to a type called polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Polyesters include natura ...

, or

rayon Rayon is a semi-synthetic fiber, made from natural sources of regenerated cellulose, such as wood and related agricultural products. It has the same molecular structure as cellulose. It is also called viscose. Many types and grades of viscose ...

. Charmeuse woven from blended fibers has also become more common. It is used in women's clothing such as

lingerie Lingerie (, , ) is a category of primarily women's clothing including undergarments (mainly brassieres), sleepwear, and lightweight robes. The choice of the word is often motivated by an intention to imply that the garments are alluring, fash ...

evening gowns An evening gown, evening dress or gown is a long dress usually worn at formal occasions. The drop ranges from ballerina (mid-calf to just above the ankles), tea (above the ankles), to full-length. Such gowns are typically worn with evening g ...

, and blouses, especially garments with a

bias Bias is a disproportionate weight ''in favor of'' or ''against'' an idea or thing, usually in a way that is closed-minded, prejudicial, or unfair. Biases can be innate or learned. People may develop biases for or against an individual, a group ...

cut. It is occasionally used in menswear.

Characteristics

Charmeuse is lightweight and drapes easily. It has a satin side, which is shiny, and a matte side, which is dull. It can be made of silk or a synthetic lookalike such as polyester. Silk charmeuse is more expensive and delicate but is softer and a better insulator. Polyester charmeuse has characteristics that are undesirable for sewing, including a tendency to pucker at the seams and fraying during cutting and handling. Polyester charmeuse is cheaper and can often withstand machine washing. It can be a challenging fabric to sew; it tends to be slippery and may be difficult to control through the presser foot of a

sewing machine A sewing machine is a machine used to sew fabric and materials together with Thread (yarn), thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies. ...

. Pins can make holes and marks in polyester charmeuse, so sharp dressmaker's pins, with a smooth taper to the point, are used when sewing charmeuse garments. A

sizing Sizing or size is a substance that is applied to, or incorporated into, other materials—especially papers and textiles—to act as a protective filler or glaze. Sizing is used in papermaking and textile manufacturing to change the absorptio ...

product may be sprayed on charmeuse before cutting.

History

A rudimentary charmeuse was first found to be made in China, dating back to 3630 BCE. It was originally made of silk and reserved for the upper class, but charmeuse eventually made its way to Europe and remained popular through the Middle Ages and the Renaissance period. The modern fabric that we associate with the name Charmeuse, however, was further developed in France by tailors and dressmakers.

Uses

The luster and delicate hand make charmeuse suited to lingerie, flowing evening gowns, and draped blouses. Bridal gowns sometimes use charmeuse. Because the fabric does not hold a shape well and tends to cling and hang against the body, it is not used for full, flared skirts. It is best suited to a more fluid, slinky bias cut. Its uses in menswear include the lining of

jacket A jacket is a garment for the upper body, usually extending below the hips. A jacket typically has sleeves, and fastens in the front or slightly on the side. A jacket is generally lighter, tighter-fitting, and less insulating than a coat, which ...

s and slacks,

handkerchief A handkerchief (; also called a hankie or, historically, a handkercher or a ) is a form of a kerchief or bandanna, typically a hemmed square of thin fabric which can be carried in the pocket or handbag for personal hygiene purposes such as wi ...

s, ties, and underwear such as charmeuse

boxer shorts Boxer shorts (also known as loose boxers or as simply boxers) are a type of undergarment typically worn by men. The term has been used in English since 1944 for all-around-elastic shorts, so named after the shorts worn by boxers, for whom unhind ...

. The look of charmeuse is prized for dressy garments, especially when cut on the bias, a technique used to create garments that flow well on the body. Charmeuse is also the required material for the outer layer of Olympic competition ski jumper suits.

References

6. Sewport Support Team (2021, Oct. 10). What is Charmeuse Fabric: Properties, How its Made and Where. Sewport. Retrieved on Oct. 21, 2021 from https://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/charmeuse-fabric Woven fabrics Satin {{Textile-stub