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Whataroa is a small township in southern Westland on the West Coast of New Zealand's
South Island The South Island ( , 'the waters of Pounamu, Greenstone') is the largest of the three major islands of New Zealand by surface area, the others being the smaller but more populous North Island and Stewart Island. It is bordered to the north by ...
. It is located on alluvial flats to the west of the
Whataroa River The Whataroa River, sometimes the Wataroa River, is a river in the southern West Coast, New Zealand, West Coast region of New Zealand's South Island. Its source is below Hochstetter Dome in the Southern Alps and it flows north and northwest, ...
. passes through Whataroa on its route from
Ross Ross may refer to: People and fictional characters * Ross (name), including a list of people and fictional characters with the surname or given name Ross, as well as the meaning * Clan Ross, a Highland Scottish clan Places Antarctica * Ross Sea ...
to
Franz Josef / Waiau Franz Josef (officially Franz Josef / Waiau) is a small town in the West Coast region of the South Island of New Zealand. Whataroa is to the north-east, and the township of Fox Glacier is to the south-west. The Waiho River runs from the Fra ...
.
Hari Hari Hari Hari (sometimes spelled Harihari) is a small rural settlement in the south west of the West Coast region of New Zealand's South Island. It is slightly inland from the Tasman Sea and the Saltwater Lagoon and is situated between the Wanga ...
is to the north-east, and Franz Josef is 32 km to the south-west. The population of Whataroa and its surrounding area was 288 in the 2013 census, a decrease of 117 from 2006. Whataroa is located in an agricultural area where dairying is the primary activity. The town contains establishments such as a school, two churches, and a dairy and tearooms. Whataroa is the base for tours of the nearby
Waitangiroto Nature Reserve The Waitangiroto Nature Reserve is a protected area of near Whataroa, in the West Coast Region, West Coast of New Zealand. The reserve consists of lowland kahikatea swamp forest either side of the Waitangiroto River. It is notable as the site o ...
, the location of the only breeding colony of kōtuku or white heron ('' Ardea alba modesta'') in New Zealand.


Name

The
Māori Māori or Maori can refer to: Relating to the Māori people * Māori people of New Zealand, or members of that group * Māori language, the language of the Māori people of New Zealand * Māori culture * Cook Islanders, the Māori people of the Co ...
name of the area was Matainui, still preserved in the Matainui Creek which passes through the town. A post office was built in what is now the centre of the settlement in the 1930s and named the Matainui P.O. but when it was moved to a new building the locals petitioned for it to be renamed "Wataroa" (spelled thus), after the nearby river and flats. Wataroa was the standard spelling of the settlement's name for many years, and is still a common pronunciation by locals. The post office was changed to the official name "Whataroa" in 1951. The Māori word means an elevated stage, and denotes "long or tall".


History

The history of Whataroa is tied to the gold rush settlement of
Ōkārito Ōkārito is a small coastal settlement on the west Coast, New Zealand, West Coast of New Zealand's South Island, southwest of Hokitika, and from . It is built at the southern end of the Ōkārito Lagoon at the mouth of the Ōkārito River. Th ...
on the coast, which boomed in 1865–66. Ōkārito was the third-largest port in Westland at the time, supplying other coastal gold-mining settlements, and the inland camps at Waiho and the Forks. By the end of the 1860s most claims had been worked out, and the district's population had dropped from 4500 to 650. Surveyors had explored the Whataroa area around 1860, and Gerhard Mueller spent three months exploring the inland area in 1866, venturing to Lake Rotokino with his Māori guides and becoming the first European to see the white heron nesting colony on the Waitangiroto River. In the 1870s Harry Friend, a butcher from Ōkārito, began running cattle on the Whataroa flats to supply the gold miners. The area between the
Whataroa River The Whataroa River, sometimes the Wataroa River, is a river in the southern West Coast, New Zealand, West Coast region of New Zealand's South Island. Its source is below Hochstetter Dome in the Southern Alps and it flows north and northwest, ...
and the Waitangitāhuna (called the Waitangi or Waitangitaona at the time) was
tōtara ''Podocarpus totara'' (), commonly known as the , is a species of Podocarpus, podocarp tree endemism, endemic to New Zealand. It grows throughout the North Island, South Island and rarely on Stewart Island, Stewart Island / Rakiura in lowland, ...
forest, swampland, and
pakihi Pakihi or pākihi is a vegetation association unique to the West Coast of the South Island of New Zealand, characterised by flat boggy land with infertile, waterlogged soil on which only rushes, ferns, moss, and mānuka grow. Name The Māo ...
clearings, all suitable for grazing. More cattle farmers followed, and an inland track was cleared past the Forks and
Lake Wahapo Lake Wahapo () is a small glacial lake in South Westland, New Zealand, within the Westland Tai Poutini National Park and near the township of Whataroa. It was a traditional mahinga kai (food-gathering place) for local Māori people, Māori. State ...
to the interior. Up to about 1900 the flat land was common grazing for sheep, horse, and cattle, and the settlers cooperated to muster stock in rugged scrub country. The first telephone line to the Whataroa post office was connected in 1897, and by 1900 a new road north across Mt Hercules was built, which created a outlet for farm produce in addition to the port at Ōkārito. Flax mills were set up, and several sawmills operated to clear
rimu ''Dacrydium cupressinum'', commonly known as rimu, is a species of tree in the family Podocarpaceae. It is a dioecious evergreen conifer, reaching heights of up to , and can have a stout trunk (botany), trunk up to in diameter. It is endemis ...
and silver pine; Paynter Sawmills continued to operate as a significant employer in the town until the late 20th century. A 1904 visit by the prime minister,
Richard Seddon Richard John Seddon (22 June 1845 – 10 June 1906) was a New Zealand politician who served as the 15th premier (prime minister) of New Zealand from 1893 until his death. In office for thirteen years, he is to date New Zealand's longest-ser ...
, led to the construction of the Whataroa Bridge in 1907–08, at a cost of £11,000. Opening in 1909, it essentially ended the need for Ōkārito as a port. Early settler Henry Burrough subdivided his land in 1913, and many farmers arrived. Dairying was briefly popular, with a cheese and butter factory being built, but this declined when the settlement turned to raising beef cattle. The first cattle sale had happened in 1912 and in 1915 the South Western Saleyards Company was formed. Cattle farming and twice-yearly stock sales were to play a large role in Whataroa, both as an industry and a social event, with cattle being driven from as far south as the Cascade River in a two-week journey via the Haast-Paringa Cattle Track. After the opening of the road connecting Haast with Otago over the
Haast Pass Haast Pass / Tioripatea is a mountain pass in the Southern Alps of the South Island of New Zealand. Māori used the pass in pre-European times. The pass takes its name from Julius von Haast, a 19th-century explorer who also served as provinci ...
on 12 November 1960, it was possible to use trucks to take stock south to
Cromwell Oliver Cromwell (25 April 15993 September 1658) was an English statesman, politician and soldier, widely regarded as one of the most important figures in British history. He came to prominence during the Wars of the Three Kingdoms, initially a ...
, and the last mob of cattle was driven north to Whataroa in 1961. In the 1930s a new post office was built in what is now the centre of town, at the junction of Main South and Flat roads. Much later it moved to a modern post office building opposite the school. A drapery and butcher shop were built in the 1920s, and a pub named ''The Better 'Ole'' opened. The first resident doctor arrived in 1928, and at Te Taho, north of Whataroa, the district nurse Mabel Gunn registered her husband's house as a maternity hospital. It served most of South Westland, and after a visit by the Minister of Health
Mabel Howard Mabel Bowden Howard (18 April 1894 – 23 June 1972) was a well-known New Zealand trade unionist and politician. She was the first woman secretary of a predominantly male union (the Canterbury General Labourers' Union). She was a Member of Parl ...
a five-bed hospital was built in Whataroa in 1953, for which Mabel Gunn was matron for a decade. In 1937 the Arnold family set up a garage in the former dairy factory with a single truck, and built a new garage in 1945, setting up a freight and transport company that became one of the largest on the West Coast, before merging with Ross Transport in 1972 to become Trans West. At one point the garage supplied electricity for the township, which had no public supply. In the 1930s one proposal was to take water from
Lake Mapourika Lake Mapourika is located on the West Coast of New Zealand's South Island. It lies north of Franz Josef Glacier, and the out-flowing Ōkārito River drains it into the Ōkārito Lagoon. It is the 3rd largest of the West Coast lakes, a glaci ...
for a hydroelectric station, but this was too costly. In the early 1950s the Westland County Council investigated the possibility of a generator at the outfall of
Lake Wahapo Lake Wahapo () is a small glacial lake in South Westland, New Zealand, within the Westland Tai Poutini National Park and near the township of Whataroa. It was a traditional mahinga kai (food-gathering place) for local Māori people, Māori. State ...
into the Okarito River to supply Whataroa. A 1957 town meeting instigated the process, and the Okarito Forks Power Station (later renamed Wahapo) was constructed in 1960, putting out 280 kW. Soon after the district was connected to the national electricity grid. The Wahapo Power Station was rebuilt in 1991 to increase its output to 3000 kW. After 1945 clearing and draining of the Whataroa flats accelerated, with better farm machinery, top-dressing of fertiliser, and flood control. A telephone exchange,
Bank of New Zealand Bank of New Zealand (BNZ) is one of New Zealand's Big Four (banking)#New Zealand, big four banks. It has been operating since October 1861, and since 1992 has been owned by National Australia Bank (NAB), retaining local governance with a New Z ...
, RSA Hall, and War Memorial rooms were built. A 1959 report noted Whataroa was "primarily a cattle and sheep grazing area, there being only a limited amount of dairying," but from the 1960s there was a swing back towards dairying as the main land use, as tankers were able to easily transport milk up the highway to the milk powder factory in
Hokitika Hokitika is a town in the West Coast region of New Zealand's South Island, south of Greymouth, and close to the mouth of the Hokitika River. It is the seat and largest town in the Westland District. The town's estimated population is as of ...
. Cattle sales continued however, with South Western Saleyards conducting five autumn sales each year of 900–1000 cattle each. New bridges were built across the Whataroa and Waitangitāhuna Rivers; the latter river changed course dramatically in 1967, its upper reach flowing into Lake Wahapo which reduced the flow of the lower river and the danger from flooding; stop banks were built in the 1980s to make this change permanent. Sawmilling also played an important role in the town economy, with Paynter's Mill felling native forest and so, as a writer in 1979 noted, "under threat from the attention of the environmentalists". In 2019, the Whataroa Community Hall, nearly a century old, was refurbished using a $200,000 grant from Development West Coast.


Geography

A 1959 survey described the Whataroa region as 14,000 acres of alluvial flats between the Whataroa and Waitangi-tona (Whatangitāhuna) Rivers, 8 miles long and 2–4 miles wide. In addition there were 7,500 acres of rough grazing flats, 3,000 acres of alluvial fans east of the Whataroa, and 2,000 acres of wetland available to drain. The report concluded:
The soils of this area are generally shallow, friable, sandy, and gravelly loams resting on gravels and sands, the original cover of which was mainly totara, but contain many low-lying wet and underdrained areas merging into shallow wet swamps with remains of kahikatea bush, The whole area is cleared and occupied but pastures generally are not very good, large areas being badly infested with rushes.
Whataroa sits close to the Alpine Fault, an active geological fault that runs almost the whole length of the South Island and forms the boundary between the
Pacific The Pacific Ocean is the largest and deepest of Earth's five oceanic divisions. It extends from the Arctic Ocean in the north to the Southern Ocean, or, depending on the definition, to Antarctica in the south, and is bounded by the cont ...
and Indo-Australian Plates. The fault passes about to the southeast of Whataroa, crossing State Highway 6 a few hundred metres west of the Whataroa River bridge. In 2017, scientists reported that they had drilled into the Alpine Fault near Whataroa and found a high
geothermal gradient Geothermal gradient is the rate of change in temperature with respect to increasing depth in Earth's interior. As a general rule, the crust temperature rises with depth due to the heat flow from the much hotter mantle; away from tectonic plat ...
that was, according to one of the lead researchers, Virginia Toy, "likely to be unique globally". Water with a temperature of was found at a depth of , whereas water at that temperature would typically occur at depths of more than . The project's lead scientist, Rupert Sutherland, said that the find "could be commercially very significant for New Zealand".


Waitangiroto Nature Reserve

The Waitangiroto Nature Reserve is a protected area near Whataroa. The reserve consists of lowland
kahikatea ''Dacrycarpus dacrydioides'', commonly known as kahikatea (from Māori language, Māori) and white pine, is a Pinophyta, coniferous tree endemism, endemic to New Zealand. A Podocarpaceae, podocarp, it is New Zealand's tallest tree, gaining hei ...
swamp forest either side of the Waitangiroto River. It is notable as the site of the only breeding colony of kōtuku or white heron ('' Ardea alba modesta'') in New Zealand. The breeding colony is a visitor attraction, but access to the entire nature reserve is by permit only. The colony is often incorrectly called the "Okarito" white heron colony, despite
Ōkārito Ōkārito is a small coastal settlement on the west Coast, New Zealand, West Coast of New Zealand's South Island, southwest of Hokitika, and from . It is built at the southern end of the Ōkārito Lagoon at the mouth of the Ōkārito River. Th ...
being some distance further south. White Heron Sanctuary Tours in Whataroa is the only company with a permit to take tourists to the white heron colony. The company was founded in 1987 by the fifth-generation Arnold family of Whataroa. During the breeding season of mid-September to February visitors are taken in a minibus to the edge of the reserve and walk through native bush to a viewing
hide Hide or hides may refer to: Common uses * Hide (skin), the cured skin of an animal * Bird hide, a structure for observing birds and other wildlife without causing disturbance * Gamekeeper's hide or hunting hide or hunting blind, a structure to hi ...
, where they can observe the colony. Other birds can also be seen in the reserve alongside the kōtuku, including
royal spoonbill The royal spoonbill (''Platalea regia''), also known as the black-billed spoonbill, occurs in intertidal flats and shallows of fresh and saltwater wetlands in Australia, New Zealand, Indonesia, Papua New Guinea, and the Solomon Islands. (In New ...
and the little shag. The Arnold family assists the
Department of Conservation Department may refer to: * Departmentalization, division of a larger organization into parts with specific responsibility Government and military *Department (administrative division), a geographical and administrative division within a country, ...
with predator control around the nature reserve.


Churches


Our Lady of the Woods

Our Lady of the Woods is a Catholic church located at 7 Whataroa Flat Road, Whataroa, within the South Westland parish of Our Lady of the Woods.
Mass Mass is an Intrinsic and extrinsic properties, intrinsic property of a physical body, body. It was traditionally believed to be related to the physical quantity, quantity of matter in a body, until the discovery of the atom and particle physi ...
is held at Our Lady of the Woods twice monthly, on the first and third Sundays. In the 1880s there were three established Catholic congregations in the parish of South Westland, which was run out of Ross, with a priest undertaking the long journey by horseback to Okarito,
Gillespies Beach Gillespies Beach is a black sand beach and settlement on the West Coast, New Zealand, West Coast of New Zealand's South Island, west of Fox Glacier (town), Fox Glacier township by road. It is bounded by Westland Tai Poutini National Park to the ...
, and Whataroa at least annually. Father Bogue of St Patrick's church in
Ross Ross may refer to: People and fictional characters * Ross (name), including a list of people and fictional characters with the surname or given name Ross, as well as the meaning * Clan Ross, a Highland Scottish clan Places Antarctica * Ross Sea ...
organised the building of a church on the main road of Whataroa in 1907, on land donated by John Butler and Duncan Scalley. The declining population of Okarito and Gillespies Beach made the churches there redundant, and in 1920 Father John Riordan had to rescue the altar and furnishings from the Gillespies Beach church from cattle that had forced the door and taken shelter. A new parish centred on Whataroa was established in 1934, the priest being Father James Quinn. The site for the present church and presbytery was donated by Mrs Butler, whose husband had gifted the site for the previous church. The Bishop of Christchurch,
Matthew Brodie Matthew Joseph Brodie (1871 – 11 October 1943) was the second Catholic bishop of Christchurch, New Zealand. He was appointed by Pope Benedict XV on 27 November 1915 and died in office on 11 October 1943. He was the first New Zealander by birth ...
, laid the foundation stone on 22 April 1934, and the church was blessed and dedicated later that year, on 30 September, by Bishop Brodie.


St Luke's

St Luke's Church is an Anglican church in the parish of Ross and South Westland, north of Our Lady of the Woods on Whataroa Flat Road. In 1916 funds were raised for a new Anglican church, incorporating materials from the disused Goldsborough church. The church was sufficiently finished at the next annual visit to the West Coast of Bishop Julius for him to dedicate it on 10 July 1919. Completed at a cost of £190, the church includes a three-light memorial stained-glass window behind the altar, donated by Henry Burrough and his sister in memory of their brother Joseph who died while serving in France during World War I; originally in the east wall, the window was moved at the suggestion of Bishop Julius to be sheltered from the prevailing winds. The first couple married in the church were district nurse Mabel Baker and farmer Frank Gunn on 17 May 1921. A bell was hung in 1923, and removed to a free-standing tower in 1945, when the vestry was lined and buttresses added to either side of the building.


Education

The first school in the area opened on 1 July 1879 with 12 pupils on the main road north of the Waitangi (Waitangitāhuna) River. The two-room Waitangi School was used for community activities, including dances.The population of the area was quite low, and the school closed in 1912. School rooms had been operating in the rear of the Forks Hotel since about 1909, and various other household schools operated: one from 1900 at the Adamson residence (Rotikino School) and from 1916 at the Chinn's residence, until the building of the Whataroa School in 1916. The district schools celebrated their centenary in 1979 and their 125th jubilee in 2004. A small school at Te Taho closed in 1947, with pupils then bussing to Whataroa. Wataroa School, as it was named, was originally sited on the corner of Purcell's Road, and in the 1920s with a roll of 44 and one teacher was moved to the present site. A two-roomed structure was built and a second teacher appointed. By the 1950s the teaching staff had risen to four and the school was renamed to "Whataroa School". In 1962 the old two-roomed building was rebuilt with two classrooms, a staff room, and an office, and in 1965 accommodation was built for women teachers. Today Whataroa School is a coeducational full primary school (years 1–8), with a decile rating of 7 and a roll of as at . In the 1970s the school expanded with a dental clinic, pool, and a library in a prefabricated building next to the main school. In 1975 a library was added to the main block, with around 1000 books. It became the Whataroa School Community Library in June 1991; previously there had been a community library stored in a cupboard in the church hall. Whataroa was the first Westland community to merge its community and school libraries in this way.


Events

Sports and competitive wood-chopping events were held regularly in the town centre from the earliest days, as well as the annual Whataroa Races. Whataroa hosts the South Westland A&P Show annually in February. Founded in 1951, events include equestrian competitions, dairy cattle judging, dog trials, trade displays and various family entertainment. An influx of farmers led to the establishment of the South Westland Rugby Union in 1933. The Woodham Shield is an annual rugby competition in which Whataroa and neighboring towns, Franz- Fox- Haast, Hari Hari and
Ross Ross may refer to: People and fictional characters * Ross (name), including a list of people and fictional characters with the surname or given name Ross, as well as the meaning * Clan Ross, a Highland Scottish clan Places Antarctica * Ross Sea ...
, compete against each other for possession of the shield.Shield stays in Whataroa
. Greymouth Star
Also founded in 1933 was the short-lived Wataroa Aero Club, which was finally wound up in 1953 and its land handed over for a public domain; memorial gates were installed to honour Constable Ted Best, a founder of the club who was killed in the Stanley Graham shooting.


References


External links


Whataroa Community Association websiteSouth Westland A&P ShowWhataroa School
{{Westland District Westland District Populated places in the West Coast Region