Stockings (also known as hose, especially in a historical context) are close-fitting, variously elastic
garment
Clothing (also known as clothes, apparel, and attire) are items worn on the body. Typically, clothing is made of fabrics or textiles, but over time it has included garments made from animal skin and other thin sheets of materials and natural ...
s covering the leg from the foot up to the knee or possibly part or all of the
thigh
In human anatomy, the thigh is the area between the hip ( pelvis) and the knee. Anatomically, it is part of the lower limb.
The single bone in the thigh is called the femur. This bone is very thick and strong (due to the high proportion of ...
. Stockings vary in color, design, and
transparency. Today, stockings are primarily worn for fashion and
aesthetics
Aesthetics, or esthetics, is a branch of philosophy that deals with the nature of beauty and taste, as well as the philosophy of art (its own area of philosophy that comes out of aesthetics). It examines aesthetic values, often expressed t ...
, usually in association with mid-length or short
skirt
A skirt is the lower part of a dress or a separate outer garment that covers a person from the waist downwards.
At its simplest, a skirt can be a draped garment made out of a single piece of fabric (such as pareos). However, most skirts ar ...
s.
History
Historically, even though the word ''sock'' is at least as ancient in origin, what men normally wore were often referred to as stockings, probably especially when referring to longer hose. The word ''stock'' used to refer to the bottom "stump" part of the body, and by
analogy the word was used to refer to the one-piece covering of the lower trunk and limbs of the 15th century—essentially
tights
Tights are a kind of cloth garment, most often sheathing the body from the waist to the toe tips with a tight fit, hence the name. They come in absolute opaque, opaque, sheer and fishnet styles — or a combination, such as the original concep ...
consisting of the ''upper-stocks'' (later to be worn separately as knee breeches) and ''nether-stocks'' (later to be worn separately as ''stockings''). (See
Hose.)
Before the 1590s, stockings were made of woven cloth. The first
knitting machines were for making stockings. The stockings themselves were made of cotton,
linen,
wool
Wool is the textile fibre obtained from sheep and other mammals, especially goats, rabbits, and camelids. The term may also refer to inorganic materials, such as mineral wool and glass wool, that have properties similar to animal wool. ...
or
silk
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from the ...
. A polished cotton called
lisle was common, as were those made in the town of
Balbriggan.
Before the 1920s, stockings, if worn, were worn for warmth. In the 1920s, as
hemline
The hemline is the line formed by the lower edge of a garment, such as a skirt, dress or coat, measured from the floor.
The hemline is perhaps the most variable style line in fashion, changing shape and ranging in height from hip-high to floor- ...
s of dresses rose and central heating was not widespread, women began to wear flesh-colored stockings to cover their exposed legs. Those stockings were sheer, first made of silk or
rayon (then known as "artificial silk") and after 1940 of
nylon
Nylon is a generic designation for a family of synthetic polymers composed of polyamides ( repeating units linked by amide links).The polyamides may be aliphatic or semi-aromatic.
Nylon is a silk-like thermoplastic, generally made from pe ...
.
The introduction of nylon in 1939 by chemical company
DuPont began a high demand for stockings in the United States with up to 4 million pairs being purchased in one day.
Nylon stockings were cheap, durable, and sheer compared to their cotton and silk counterparts. When America entered
World War II
World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposing ...
, DuPont ceased production of nylon stockings and retooled their factories to produce parachutes, airplane cords, and rope. This led to a shortage and the creation of a
black market for stockings. At the end of the war DuPont announced that the company would return to producing stockings, but could not meet demand. This led to a series of disturbances in American stores known as the
nylon riots
The nylon riots were a series of disturbances at American stores created by a nylon stocking shortage.
Background
Nylon was first introduced by DuPont around 1939 and was in extremely high demand in the United States, with up to 4 million pairs of ...
until DuPont was able to increase production.
A precursor of
pantyhose
Pantyhose, called sheer tights, or tights, are close-fitting legwear covering the wearer's body from the waist to the toes. Mostly considered to be a garment for women and girls, pantyhose first appeared on store shelves in 1959 for the advert ...
made an appearance in the 1940s and 1950s, when film and theater productions had stockings sewn to the briefs of actresses and dancers, according to actress-singer-dancer
Ann Miller and seen in popular films such as
''Daddy Long Legs''. Today, stockings are commonly made using
knitted
Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile, or fabric. It is used to create many types of garments. Knitting may be done by hand or by machine.
Knitting creates stitches: loops of yarn in a row, either flat or i ...
wool, silk, cotton or nylon (see
hosiery
Hosiery, also referred to as legwear, describes garments worn directly on the feet and legs. The term originated as the collective term for products of which a maker or seller is termed a hosier; and those products are also known generically as ...
). The introduction of commercial pantyhose in 1959 gave an alternative to stockings, and the use of stockings declined dramatically. A main reason for this was the trend towards higher hemlines on dresses (see
minidress
A miniskirt (sometimes hyphenated as mini-skirt, separated as mini skirt, or sometimes shortened to simply mini) is a skirt with its hemline well above the knees, generally at mid-thigh level, normally no longer than below the buttocks; and a ...
). In 1970, U.S. sales of pantyhose exceeded stockings for the first time, and has remained this way ever since. Beginning in 1987, sales of pantyhose started a slight decline due to the newly invented hold-ups, but still remain the most sold kind of hosiery.
Benefits and drawbacks
Stockings are still sometimes preferred to
pantyhose
Pantyhose, called sheer tights, or tights, are close-fitting legwear covering the wearer's body from the waist to the toes. Mostly considered to be a garment for women and girls, pantyhose first appeared on store shelves in 1959 for the advert ...
in North American English, for a number of reasons. These may include the perception that stockings, and the associated use of
garter
A garter is an article of clothing comprising a narrow band of fabric fastened about the leg to keep up stockings. In the eighteenth to twentieth centuries, they were tied just below the knee, where the leg is most slender, to keep the stocking f ...
s,
lace
Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is divided into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted o ...
, high fashion,
appliqué
Appliqué is ornamental needlework in which pieces or patches of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern. It is commonly used as decoration, especially on garments. The technique ...
and the exposure of the thigh, are more aesthetically pleasing, or sexually attractive and alluring than pantyhose.
Both nylon stockings and pantyhose in being sheer share the advantage of being quick-drying compared to trousers. Spare pairs are also easy to carry if they are ruined. If laddered they can be replaced 'one at a time' which provides a cost advantage over tights.
However, stockings have a drawback in colder weather, because more skin is exposed to the cold compared to pantyhose. Also, pantyhose do not require garters or garter belts.
Support
Stockings can be held up in one of three ways:
# A
garter belt
A garter is an article of clothing comprising a narrow band of fabric fastened about the leg to keep up stockings. In the eighteenth to twentieth centuries, they were tied just below the knee, where the leg is most slender, to keep the stocking f ...
(
AmE #REDIRECT AME
{{redirect category shell, {{R from other capitalisation{{R from ambiguous page ...
), or suspender belt or suspenders (
BrE), is the second most common way of holding up stockings. It is a piece of
underwear
Undergarments, underclothing, or underwear are items of clothing worn beneath outer clothes, usually in direct contact with the skin, although they may comprise more than a single layer. They serve to keep outer garments from being soiled o ...
worn around the waist like a belt but under clothing which has "suspenders" or "stays" that clip to the tops of the stockings.
#
Hold-ups
Hold-ups or stay-ups (in the United States also referred to as thigh-high stockings or simply thigh highs) are stockings with an elasticized band at the top, designed to hold the stockings up when worn, without the use of a garter belt or gar ...
are the most common means of support. The inside of the top of the stockings has a band (typically
silicone) of elastic or highly tractive material that resists slipping down the thigh.
# A
garter
A garter is an article of clothing comprising a narrow band of fabric fastened about the leg to keep up stockings. In the eighteenth to twentieth centuries, they were tied just below the knee, where the leg is most slender, to keep the stocking f ...
is the least common means of support. It is slipped over the top of the stocking to hold the stocking by essentially clamping it to the leg. These are the garters typically worn by a bride at her wedding. They have similar advantages and disadvantages to "stay-ups".
Terminology
In modern usage, ''stocking'' specifically refers to the form of hosiery configured as two pieces, one for each leg (except for American and
Australian English, where the term can also be a synonym for pantyhose). The terms ''hold-ups'' and ''thigh highs'' refer to stockings that stay up through the use of built-in elastic, while the word ''stockings'' is the general term or refers to the kind of stockings that need a suspender belt (garter belt, in
American English
American English, sometimes called United States English or U.S. English, is the set of varieties of the English language native to the United States. English is the most widely spoken language in the United States and in most circumstances i ...
), and are quite distinct from
tights
Tights are a kind of cloth garment, most often sheathing the body from the waist to the toe tips with a tight fit, hence the name. They come in absolute opaque, opaque, sheer and fishnet styles — or a combination, such as the original concep ...
or pantyhose (American English).
Other terms used with stockings include:
* Cuban heel: A stocking with a heel made with folded over and sewn reinforcement.
* Demi-toe: Stockings which have a reinforced toe with half the coverage on top as on the bottom. This results in a reinforcement that covers only the tip of the toes as opposed to the whole toe. These can be with or without a reinforced heel.
*
Denier: The lower the denier number the sheerer the garment. Stockings knitted with a higher denier tend to be less sheer but more durable.
*
Fishnet
In the field of textiles, fishnet is hosiery with an open, diamond-shaped knit; it is most often used as a material for stockings, tights, gloves or bodystockings. Fishnet is available in a multitude of colors, although it is most often sporte ...
: Knitted stockings with a very wide open knit resembling a
fish net
A fishing net is a net used for fishing. Nets are devices made from fibers woven in a grid-like structure. Some fishing nets are also called fish traps, for example fyke nets. Fishing nets are usually meshes formed by knotting a relatively ...
.
* Fencenet: Similar to fishnet, but with a much wider pattern. These are sometimes worn over another pair of stockings or pantyhose, such as matte or opaque, with a contrasting colour. Sometimes referred to as whalenets.
*
Football stockings: typically made out of heavy cotton or a thick, durable synthetic fabric that reaches the knee.
[''A Brief History of Football Kit Design in England and Scotland''
by Dave Moo]
/ref>
* Fully fashioned stockings, Full Fashioned: Fully fashioned stockings are knitted flat, the material is then cut and the two sides are then united by a seam up the back. Fully fashioned stockings were the most popular style until the 1960s.
* Hold-ups
Hold-ups or stay-ups (in the United States also referred to as thigh-high stockings or simply thigh highs) are stockings with an elasticized band at the top, designed to hold the stockings up when worn, without the use of a garter belt or gar ...
(British English) or Stay-ups: Stockings that are held up by sewn-in elasticated bands (quite often a wide lace top band). In the US they are referred to as thigh-highs.
* Knee highs: Stockings that terminate at or just barely below the knee. Also known as half-stockings, trouser socks, or socks.
* Matte: Stockings which have a dull or non-lustre finish.
* Mock seam: A false seam sewn into the back of a seamless stocking.
* Nude heel: Stockings without reinforcement in the heel area.
* Opaque: Stockings made of yarn which give them a heavier appearance (usually 40 denier or greater).
* Point heel: in a Fully Fashioned stocking it is a heel in which the reinforced part ends in a triangle shape.
* RHT: Abbreviation of reinforced heel and toe.
* Open-toed: Stockings that stop at the base of the toe with a piece that goes between the first and second toes to hold them down. They can be worn with some open-toed shoes, especially to show off pedicured toes.
* Sandalfoot: Stockings with a nude toe, meaning no heavier yarn in the toe than is in the leg. They are intended to be worn with sandal or open-toe shoes.
* Seamed: Stockings manufactured in the old Full-Fashioned manner with a seam running up the back of the leg. In the past they were manufactured by cutting the fabric and then sewing it together.
* Seamless: Stockings knit in one operation on circular machines (one continuous operation) so that no seaming is required up the back.
* Sheers: Stockings generally of a 15 to 20 denier.
* Stocking Feet: Shoeless feet covered by stockings or socks.
* Suspender belt (British English
British English (BrE, en-GB, or BE) is, according to Lexico, Oxford Dictionaries, "English language, English as used in Great Britain, as distinct from that used elsewhere". More narrowly, it can refer specifically to the English language in ...
) or Garter belt
A garter is an article of clothing comprising a narrow band of fabric fastened about the leg to keep up stockings. In the eighteenth to twentieth centuries, they were tied just below the knee, where the leg is most slender, to keep the stocking f ...
(American English): a belt with straps to keep stockings (not hold-ups) on place: usually they have 4 straps, but may have also 6 or 8.
* Ultra sheer: A fine denier fiber which gives the ultimate in sheerness. Usually 10 denier.
* Welt: A fabric knitted separately and machine-sewn to the top of a stocking. Knit in a heavier denier yarn and folded double to give strength for supporter fastening.
See also
* Bodystocking
* Fully fashioned stockings
Fully fashioned stockings (FFS), are stockings with characteristic reinforcements on the heel and top, a so-called keyhole at the back of the top, and a stitched back seam in between. They are made to be worn with a garter belt and are today consid ...
* Hold-ups
Hold-ups or stay-ups (in the United States also referred to as thigh-high stockings or simply thigh highs) are stockings with an elasticized band at the top, designed to hold the stockings up when worn, without the use of a garter belt or gar ...
* Leggings
Leggings are several types of leg attire that have varied through the years. Modern usage from the 1960s onwards has come to refer to elastic close-fitting high-rise garments worn over the legs typically by women, such as leg warmers or tights ...
* Nylon riots
The nylon riots were a series of disturbances at American stores created by a nylon stocking shortage.
Background
Nylon was first introduced by DuPont around 1939 and was in extremely high demand in the United States, with up to 4 million pairs of ...
* Pantyhose
Pantyhose, called sheer tights, or tights, are close-fitting legwear covering the wearer's body from the waist to the toes. Mostly considered to be a garment for women and girls, pantyhose first appeared on store shelves in 1959 for the advert ...
* Sock
* Stocking fetishism
* Tabi
are traditional Japanese socks worn with thonged footwear such as zori, dating back to the 15th century.
History
Japanese are usually understood today to be a kind of split-toed sock that is not meant to be worn alone outdoors, much like r ...
* Tights
Tights are a kind of cloth garment, most often sheathing the body from the waist to the toe tips with a tight fit, hence the name. They come in absolute opaque, opaque, sheer and fishnet styles — or a combination, such as the original concep ...
* Zettai ryōiki
References
*
Further reading
* Cox, Caroline (2000). ''Lingerie: a lexicon of style''. Scriptum Editions. .
External links
History of Nylon Stockings
Stockings in the collection of the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa
Images of hosiery in the collection of the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa
Database of hosiery factories, companies and trademarks
{{Authority control
Medieval European costume
History of clothing
Hosiery
Lingerie
Socks