Shalwar Kameez
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Shalwar kameez (also salwar kameez and less commonly shalwar qameez) is a traditional combination dress worn by women, and in some regions by men, in
South Asia South Asia is the southern subregion of Asia, which is defined in both geographical and ethno-cultural terms. The region consists of the countries of Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka.;;;;;;;; ...
, and
Central Asia Central Asia, also known as Middle Asia, is a subregion, region of Asia that stretches from the Caspian Sea in the west to western China and Mongolia in the east, and from Afghanistan and Iran in the south to Russia in the north. It includes t ...
. ''Shalwars'' are
trousers Trousers (British English), slacks, or pants are an item of clothing worn from the waist to anywhere between the knees and the ankles, covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth extending across both legs as in robes, skirts, and dr ...
which are atypically wide at the waist but which narrow to a cuffed bottom. They are held up by a drawstring or elastic belt, which causes them to become pleated around the waist. The trousers can be wide and baggy, or they can be cut quite narrow, on the
bias Bias is a disproportionate weight ''in favor of'' or ''against'' an idea or thing, usually in a way that is closed-minded, prejudicial, or unfair. Biases can be innate or learned. People may develop biases for or against an individual, a group, ...
. Shalwars have been traditionally worn in a wide region which includes Eastern Europe, West Asia, Central Asia, and South Asia. The ''kameez'' is a long shirt or tunic. The side seams are left open below the waist-line (the opening known as the ''chaak''), which gives the wearer greater freedom of movement. The kameez is usually cut straight and flat; older kameez use traditional cuts; modern kameez are more likely to have European-inspired
set-in sleeve A sleeve ( ang, slīef, a word allied to ''slip'', cf. Dutch ) is the part of a garment that covers the arm, or through which the arm passes or slips. The sleeve is a characteristic of fashion seen in almost every country and time period, acro ...
s. The kameez may have a European-style collar, a Mandarin collar, or it may be collarless; in the latter case, its design as a women's garment is similar to a
kurta A ''kurta'' is a loose collarless shirt or tunic worn in many regions of South Asia, (subscription required) Quote: "A loose shirt or tunic worn by men and women." Quote: "Kurta: a loose shirt without a collar, worn by women and men from South ...
. The combination garment is sometimes called salwar kurta, salwar suit, or Punjabi suit. The shalwar and kameez were introduced into South Asia by arriving Muslims in the north in the 13th century: at first worn by Muslim women, their use gradually spread, making them a regional style, especially in the historical
Punjab Punjab (; Punjabi: پنجاب ; ਪੰਜਾਬ ; ; also romanised as ''Panjāb'' or ''Panj-Āb'') is a geopolitical, cultural, and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent, comprising ...
region. The shalwar-kameez is a widely-worn, and
national dress A folk costume (also regional costume, national costume, traditional garment, or traditional regalia) expresses an identity through costume, which is usually associated with a geographic area or a period of time in history. It can also indicat ...
, of Pakistan. It is also widely worn by men in Afghanistan, by women and some men in the Punjab region of India, from which it has been adopted by women throughout India, and more generally
South Asia South Asia is the southern subregion of Asia, which is defined in both geographical and ethno-cultural terms. The region consists of the countries of Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka.;;;;;;;; ...
. When women wear the shalwar-kameez in some regions, they usually wear a long scarf or shawl called a
dupatta The dupattā is a Hindu shawl traditionally worn by women in Indian subcontinent to cover the head and shoulders. The dupatta is currently used most commonly as part of the women's shalwar kameez outfit, and worn over the kurta and the gharara. ...
around the head or neck. In South Asia, the dupatta is also employed as a form of modesty—although it is made of delicate material, it obscures the upper body's contours by passing over the shoulders. For Muslim women, the dupatta is a less stringent alternative to the
chador A chādor ( Persian, ur, چادر, lit=tent), also variously spelled in English as chadah, chad(d)ar, chader, chud(d)ah, chadur, and naturalized as , is an outer garment or open cloak worn by many women in the Persian-influenced countries of I ...
or
burqa A burqa or a burka, or , and ur, , it is also transliterated as burkha, bourkha, burqua or burqu' or borgha' and is pronounced natively . It is generally pronounced in the local variety of Arabic or variety of Persian, which varies. Examp ...
(see
hijab In modern usage, hijab ( ar, حجاب, translit=ḥijāb, ) generally refers to headcoverings worn by Muslim women. Many Muslims believe it is obligatory for every female Muslim who has reached the age of puberty to wear a head covering. While ...
and
purdah Pardah or purdah (from Hindi-Urdu , , meaning "curtain") is a religious and social practice of female seclusion prevalent among some Muslim and Hindu communities. It takes two forms: physical segregation of the sexes and the requirement that wom ...
); for Sikh and Hindu women, the dupatta is useful when the head must be covered, as in a temple or the presence of elders. Everywhere in South Asia, modern versions of the attire have evolved; the shalwars are worn lower down on the waist, the kameez have shorter length, with higher splits, lower necklines and backlines, and with cropped sleeves or without sleeves.


Etymology and history

The English word "shalwar" derives ultimately from the
Persian language Persian (), also known by its endonym Farsi (, ', ), is a Western Iranian language belonging to the Iranian branch of the Indo-Iranian subdivision of the Indo-European languages. Persian is a pluricentric language predominantly spoken and ...
. According to the "Oxford English Dictionary": its etymology is: " < Urdu šalwār, Hindi salvār, < Persian šalwār." According to the ''Oxford Dictionary of English'', it is Originally From Persian šalwār." According to the ''
Random House Unabridged Dictionary ''Random House Webster's Unabridged Dictionary'' is a large American dictionary, first published in 1966 as ''The Random House Dictionary of the English Language: The Unabridged Edition''. Edited by Editor-in-chief Jess Stein, it contained 315,0 ...
'': "1880–85; < Hindi < Persian ''shalwār''". According to Steingass's ''A Comprehensive Persian-English Dictionary'', " شلوار shalwār, shulwār, Inner breeches, drawers reaching to the feet (the outer breeches being called tuṃbān); sailorsʼ or travellersʼ trousers. شلوار بند shalwār-band, Fastening of breeches." According to Shakespear's ''A dictionary of Hindustani and English''," شلوار shalwār Persian (or shilwār) s. m. Trousers." According to McGregor's ''Oxford Hindi English Dictionary'', "शलवार ''śalwār'' (Persian: ''śalwār'') Loose cotton trousers worn by women." The English word "kameez," derives from the
Arabic language Arabic (, ' ; , ' or ) is a Semitic language spoken primarily across the Arab world.Semitic languages: an international handbook / edited by Stefan Weninger; in collaboration with Geoffrey Khan, Michael P. Streck, Janet C. E.Watson; Walter ...
. According to the ''Oxford Dictionary of English'', "Kameez: A long tunic worn by many people from South Asia, typically with a salwar or
churidar Churidars, also churidar pyjamas, are tightly fitting trousers worn by both men and women in Indian Subcontinent. Churidars are a variant of the common shalwar pants. Shalwars are cut wide at the top and narrow at the ankle. Churidars narrow more ...
s. Origin: From Arabic ''qamīṣ'', perhaps from late Latin ''camisia'' (see chemise)" According to Wehr's ''A Dictionary of Modern Written Arabic'': " قميص ''qamīs'': shirt, dress, gown, covering, cover, case, wrap, envelope, jacket; plural: قمص ''qamus''" According to Steingass's ''A Comprehensive Persian-English Dictionary'', "Arabic قميص qamīṣ, A shirt, shift, or any kind of inner garment of linen; also a tunic, a surplice (of cotton, but not of wool); the membrane which surrounds the fœtus in the womb, amnion; pericardium; a galloping horse that shakes its rider." According to Platt's ''A Dictionary of Urdu, Classical Hindi, and English'', "Arabic قميص qamīṣ, vulg. qamīz, kamīj, s.m. A shirt; a shift; a chemise (cf. It. camicia; Port. camisa). According to McGregor's ''Oxford Hindi-English Dictionary'': "क़मीज़ ''qamīz'' (Arabic: ''qamīş'') a shirt". The English word combination "shalwar kameez," is an internationalism derived from the
Urdu language Urdu (;"Urdu"
''Random House Webster's Unabridged Dictionary''.
ur, , link=no, ) is an Indo-Aryan languages, In ...
; according to Patrizia Anesa, author of ''Lexical Innovation in World Englishes: Cross-fertilization and Evolving Paradigms'', "Salwar-kameez. ... may also be described as an internationalism given its origin (Urdu). This word-formation process is based on the combination of two elements which are two garments (baggy pants and a tunic or shirt) and constitute an outfit typical of South and Central Asia." Author Garland Cannon in "Problems in Studying Loans," in ''Proceedings of the 25th Annual Meeting of the Berkeley Linguistics Society'', says, "... the old Urdu ''shalwar-kameez'' 'women's loose-fitting trousers and long tunic' was first used in English by colonial residents on the Indian subcontinent. (page 332)" Quote: ''Shalwar-kameez'' is an old English loanword still used in Urdu to denote women's loose-fitting trousers and long tunic. Its reappearance by 1955 to denote roughly the same sense can raise the question of whether there is not simply a revival of a word once commonly used by British expatriates on the subcontinent, except that it is now extended to this attire as used in the West. (page 183)"


Description

The ''shalwar'' are loose
pajama Pajamas (American English, US) or pyjamas (English in the Commonwealth of Nations, Commonwealth) (), sometimes colloquially shortened to PJs, jammies, jam-jams, or in South Asia night suits, are several related types of clothing worn as night ...
-like
trousers Trousers (British English), slacks, or pants are an item of clothing worn from the waist to anywhere between the knees and the ankles, covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth extending across both legs as in robes, skirts, and dr ...
. The legs are wide at the top, and narrow at the ankle. The ''kameez'' is a long shirt or tunic, often seen with a Western-style collar; however, for female apparel, the term is now loosely applied to collarless or mandarin-collared
kurta A ''kurta'' is a loose collarless shirt or tunic worn in many regions of South Asia, (subscription required) Quote: "A loose shirt or tunic worn by men and women." Quote: "Kurta: a loose shirt without a collar, worn by women and men from South ...
s. The kameez might be worn with pajamas as well, either for fashion or comfort. Some kameez styles have side seams (known as the ''chaak''), left open below the waist-line, giving the wearer greater freedom of movement.


Styles

The kameez can be sewn straight and flat, in an "A" shape design or flowing like a dress; there are a variety of styles. Modern kameez styles are more likely to have European-inspired set-in sleeves. If the tailor's taste or skill is displayed, this will be seen in the shape of the neckline and the decoration of the kameez. The kameez may be cut with a deep neckline, sewn in diaphanous fabrics, or styled in cap-sleeve or sleeveless designs. There are many styles of shalwar: the Peshawari shalwar, Balochi shalwar, Sindhi choreno and Punjabi shalwar. Although various regions of the Indian subcontinent now wear the outfit in its various forms, the outfit was originally only popular on a wide scale in
Afghanistan Afghanistan, officially the Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan,; prs, امارت اسلامی افغانستان is a landlocked country located at the crossroads of Central Asia and South Asia. Referred to as the Heart of Asia, it is bordere ...
,
Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (; ps, خېبر پښتونخوا; Urdu, Hindko: خیبر پختونخوا) commonly abbreviated as KP or KPK, is one of the Administrative units of Pakistan, four provinces of Pakistan. Located in the Geography of Pakistan, ...
,
Balochistan Balochistan ( ; bal, بلۏچستان; also romanised as Baluchistan and Baluchestan) is a historical region in Western and South Asia, located in the Iranian plateau's far southeast and bordering the Indian Plate and the Arabian Sea coastline. ...
and the
Punjab region Punjab (; Punjabi Language, Punjabi: پنجاب ; ਪੰਜਾਬ ; ; also Romanization, romanised as ''Panjāb'' or ''Panj-Āb'') is a geopolitical, cultural, and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the northern part of the I ...
of Indian subcontinent.Condra, Jill (2013). ''Encyclopedia of National Dress: Traditional Clothing Around the World''

/ref> However, the shalwar kameez has now become popular across the Indian subcontinent.


Different forms

The following are some of the styles of shalwar kameez.


Anarkali suit

The shalwar kameez known as the Anarkali Salwar Suit, Anarkali suit is named after the court dancer from
Lahore Lahore ( ; pnb, ; ur, ) is the second most populous city in Pakistan after Karachi and 26th most populous city in the world, with a population of over 13 million. It is the capital of the province of Punjab where it is the largest city. ...
. This suit has a timeless style which has become very popular. It is made up of a long, frock-style top and features a slim fitted bottom. This style of suit links the Indian subcontinent with the women's
firaq partug Firaq partug is the traditional clothing of khyber Pakhtunkhwa but also worn in Balochistan, Pakistan and part of Afghanistan. The dress originally comes from ancient Scythians who were the ancestors of pashtuns. The styles vary according to regio ...
(frock and shalwar) of northwestern Pakistan and Afghanistan and to the traditional women's
clothing Clothing (also known as clothes, apparel, and attire) are items worn on the body. Typically, clothing is made of fabrics or textiles, but over time it has included garments made from animal skin and other thin sheets of materials and natural ...
of parts of
Central Asia Central Asia, also known as Middle Asia, is a subregion, region of Asia that stretches from the Caspian Sea in the west to western China and Mongolia in the east, and from Afghanistan and Iran in the south to Russia in the north. It includes t ...
. It also links to the Punjab region, where the Anarkali suit is similar to the anga and the Peshwaz worn in
Jammu Jammu is the winter capital of the Indian union territory of Jammu and Kashmir (union territory), Jammu and Kashmir. It is the headquarters and the largest city in Jammu district of the union territory. Lying on the banks of the river Tawi Ri ...
.


Afghanistan suits

The styles of shalwar kameez worn in Afghanistan include various styles of
khet partug Khetpartug ( ps, خت پړتوګ, ''khət paṛtūg'') ''khat partoog'', is a type of Pashtun clothing worn in Afghanistan and Pakistan. Origin Khetpartug is believed to have originated in Afghanistan. Design Khet The ''khet'' is the upper ...
,
perahan tunban ''Perahan tunban'' (Persian/ ps, پیراهن و تنبان, ''pērāhan wa tunbān''), also known as Peran o Tunban, is a garment worn by men in Afghanistan and in some parts of Pakistan. Design Traditional Perahan and Tunban The ''perahan'' (t ...
and
Firaq partug Firaq partug is the traditional clothing of khyber Pakhtunkhwa but also worn in Balochistan, Pakistan and part of Afghanistan. The dress originally comes from ancient Scythians who were the ancestors of pashtuns. The styles vary according to regio ...
worn by
Pashtuns Pashtuns (, , ; ps, پښتانه, ), also known as Pakhtuns or Pathans, are an Iranian ethnic group who are native to the geographic region of Pashtunistan in the present-day countries of Afghanistan and Pakistan. They were historically re ...
,
Tajiks Tajiks ( fa, تاجيک، تاجک, ''Tājīk, Tājek''; tg, Тоҷик) are a Persian-speaking Iranian ethnic group native to Central Asia, living primarily in Afghanistan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan. Tajiks are the largest ethnicity in Tajik ...
, and
Hazaras The Hazaras ( fa, , Həzārə; haz, , Āzərə) are an ethnic group and the principal component of the population of Afghanistan, native to, and primarily residing in the Hazaristan (Hazarajat) region in central Afghanistan and generally scatt ...
. The shalwar tends to be loose and rests above the ankles. File:Clothing worn by most Pashtun males.jpg, Perahan tunban worn by most Pashtun males in Afghanistan and Pakistan File:Afghan Uniformed Police officer Noor Haya talks with an elder outside the district center in Spin Boldak, Kandahar province, Afghanistan, Sept 110918-A-VB845-368.jpg, Man in Afghan clothing: perahan tunban File:Afghan children wearing traditional clothes in Kabul.jpg, Afghan children wearing traditional clothes in
Kabul Kabul (; ps, , ; , ) is the capital and largest city of Afghanistan. Located in the eastern half of the country, it is also a municipality, forming part of the Kabul Province; it is administratively divided into 22 municipal districts. Acco ...
File:Inside The Old Terminal Of Kabul International Airport.jpg, Men wearing perahan tunban, a form of shalwar kameez at
Kabul Airport , nativename-r = , image = Flightline at Kabul International Airport.jpeg , caption = The flightline at Kabul International Airport in January 2012 , IATA = KBL , ICAO = OAKB , ...
in Afghanistan


Peshawari shalwar suit

The traditional dress of
Peshawar Peshawar (; ps, پېښور ; hnd, ; ; ur, ) is the sixth most populous city in Pakistan, with a population of over 2.3 million. It is situated in the north-west of the country, close to the International border with Afghanistan. It is ...
and other parts of
Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (; ps, خېبر پښتونخوا; Urdu, Hindko: خیبر پختونخوا) commonly abbreviated as KP or KPK, is one of the Administrative units of Pakistan, four provinces of Pakistan. Located in the Geography of Pakistan, ...
, Pakistan, is the khalqa (gown) which opens at the front, or shirt which does not open at the front, and the Peshawari shalwar which is very loose down to the ankles. The Peshawari shalwar can be used with a number of upper garments and is part of the clothing of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa.


Balochi suits

The
clothing of Balochistan, Pakistan The clothing of the Baloch people consists of various styles of kameez and shalwar, turban, shoes and head scarfs. Men's Balochi suit The men's shalwar kameez consists of a very baggy shalwar{troser which uses large lengths of cloth. The kameez is ...
includes the shalwar kameez which when worn by males consists of a very baggy shalwar using large lengths of cloth. The kameez is also loose, and traditionally is long, with long sleeves. The present Balochi shalwar kameez replaced the earlier version which consisted of a robe to the ankles and a shalwar using cloth of up to 40 yards. The
Pashtuns Pashtuns (, , ; ps, پښتانه, ), also known as Pakhtuns or Pathans, are an Iranian ethnic group who are native to the geographic region of Pashtunistan in the present-day countries of Afghanistan and Pakistan. They were historically re ...
in northern Balochistan wear clothes similar to the styles worn in Afghanistan. File:Quetta.1867.JPG, Balochi male shalwar kameez, Quetta, 1867 File:Baluchistan01.jpg, Traditional Balochi suits File:Tribal Elders, April 1896.jpg, Tribal elders, April 1896 The female Balochi suit consists of the head scarf, long dress and a shalwar. File:Balochi traditional dress.jpg, Balochi traditional dress File:Baluchi dress (UBC 2013).jpg, Baluchi dress File:Balochi embroidery.png, Balochi embroidery File:Traditional Balouchi Dresses.JPG, Traditional Balochi dresses


Phiran, poots and shalwar

In
Kashmir Kashmir () is the northernmost geographical region of the Indian subcontinent. Until the mid-19th century, the term "Kashmir" denoted only the Kashmir Valley between the Great Himalayas and the Pir Panjal Range. Today, the term encompas ...
, the outfit consists of the phiran, poots and shalwar. File:A lady at srinagar.JPG, Left and right: phiran shalwar; centre: Punjabi suits File:Bihar girl in Kashmiri dress.jpg, Kashmiri phiran File:Traditinal winter dress of kashmir.jpg, A man from
Srinagar Srinagar (English: , ) is the largest city and the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir, India. It lies in the Kashmir Valley on the banks of the Jhelum River, a tributary of the Indus, and Dal and Anchar lakes. The city is known for its natu ...
wearing phiran File:Kashmiri Muslim women in traditional long Phiran 1870.jpg, Kashmiri women in traditional long phiran 1870 File:KashmirPundit1895BritishLibrary.jpg, Kashmiri Pandits in phiran and pajama File:Men in Kashmiri Phiran and Poots 1875.jpg, Men in Kashmiri phiran and poots, 1875


Punjabi suits

The traditional shalwar kameez worn in the Punjab region is cut differently to the styles worn in
Balochistan Balochistan ( ; bal, بلۏچستان; also romanised as Baluchistan and Baluchestan) is a historical region in Western and South Asia, located in the Iranian plateau's far southeast and bordering the Indian Plate and the Arabian Sea coastline. ...
and Afghanistan and is known as a "Punjabi suit" with the kameez being cut straight and flat with side slits (which is a local development as earlier forms of kameez did not have side slits). The shalwar is wide at the top but fits closely to the legs and is gathered at the ankles. The Punjabi shalwar is also cut straight and gathered at the ankles with a loose band reinforced with coarse material. In rural
Punjab Punjab (; Punjabi: پنجاب ; ਪੰਜਾਬ ; ; also romanised as ''Panjāb'' or ''Panj-Āb'') is a geopolitical, cultural, and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent, comprising ...
, the shalwar is still called the suthan, which is a different garment that was popular in previous centuries, alongside the
churidar Churidars, also churidar pyjamas, are tightly fitting trousers worn by both men and women in Indian Subcontinent. Churidars are a variant of the common shalwar pants. Shalwars are cut wide at the top and narrow at the ankle. Churidars narrow more ...
and kameez combination (which is still popular).Mohinder Singh Randhawa. (1960) Punjab: Itihas, Kala, Sahit, te Sabiachar aad.Bhasha Vibhag, Punjab, Patiala. In
Britain Britain most often refers to: * The United Kingdom, a sovereign state in Europe comprising the island of Great Britain, the north-eastern part of the island of Ireland and many smaller islands * Great Britain, the largest island in the United King ...
, British Asian women from the Punjab region of the Indian subcontinent have brought the dress to the mainstream, and even high-fashion, appeal. The Punjabi suit is popular in other regions of the Indian subcontinent, such as
Mumbai Mumbai (, ; also known as Bombay — the official name until 1995) is the capital city of the Indian state of Maharashtra and the ''de facto'' financial centre of India. According to the United Nations, as of 2018, Mumbai is the second- ...
and
Sindh Sindh (; ; ur, , ; historically romanized as Sind) is one of the four provinces of Pakistan. Located in the southeastern region of the country, Sindh is the third-largest province of Pakistan by land area and the second-largest province ...
. The popularity of Punjabi suits in India was extentuated during the 1960s through Hindi cinema. Punjabi suits are also popular among young women in
Bangladesh Bangladesh (}, ), officially the People's Republic of Bangladesh, is a country in South Asia. It is the eighth-most populous country in the world, with a population exceeding 165 million people in an area of . Bangladesh is among the mos ...
and are especially popular amongst school girls in India. The outfit is also popular in Afghanistan, where it is called the Punjabi. File:Jaipur-India n001.jpg, Punjabi Shalwar kameez File:Women of Puducherry.jpg, Women in Punjabi suits File:MissPooja2.jpg, Miss Pooja of the Punjab region in a Punjabi suit File:Shalvaar qamiz.JPG, Men's Punjabi Shalwaar qamiz File:Christian Girls Arriving at School, Jammu, ca.1875-ca.1940 (imp-cswc-GB-237-CSWC47-LS10-047).jpg, Girls arriving at school, Jammu, ca. 1875 - ca. 1940 File:Picket_Line_in_Pakistan.jpg, Women in ornate shalwars File:Rohi's Women Dress - Bahawalpur Museum.jpg, Rohi (Cholistan) woman's bandhani dress (Punjab, Pakistan) File:1st Punjabi Wikipedia Workshop-9.jpg, First Punjabi Wikipedia Workshop: women in Punjabi suits File:A-punjabi-kitchen.jpg, Women wearing traditional clothes in a Punjabi kitchen: 1899 Another common type of Punjabi shalwar kameez is the
Patiala salwar A Patiala salwar (also called a pattian walee salwar) (also pronounced as ''shalwar'' in Urdu) is a type of female trousers which has its roots in Patiala City in the Northern region of Punjab state in India. The King of Patiala in earlier ti ...
which has many folds and originates in the city of
Patiala Patiala () is a city in southeastern Punjab, India, Punjab, northwestern India. It is the fourth largest city in the state and is the administrative capital of Patiala district. Patiala is located around the ''Qila Mubarak, Patiala, Qila Mubarak ...
. Another style of the Punjabi suit is the use of the shalwar which hails from the
Pothohar The Pothohar Plateau ( ur, ) is a plateau in north-eastern Pakistan, located between Indus River and the Jhelum River, forming the northern part of Punjab. Geography Potohar Plateau is bounded on the east by the Jhelum River, on the west by the ...
region of
Punjab, Pakistan Punjab (; , ) is one of the four provinces of Pakistan. Located in central-eastern region of the country, Punjab is the second-largest province of Pakistan by land area and the largest province by population. It shares land borders with the ...
and is known as the Pothohari shalwar. The Pothohari shalwar retains the wideness of the older Punjabi suthan and also has some folds. The kameez is also wide. The head scarf is traditionally large, similar to the
chador A chādor ( Persian, ur, چادر, lit=tent), also variously spelled in English as chadah, chad(d)ar, chader, chud(d)ah, chadur, and naturalized as , is an outer garment or open cloak worn by many women in the Persian-influenced countries of I ...
or
phulkari Phulkari ( pa, ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀ) refers to the folk embroidery of the Punjab. Although Phulkari means floral work, the designs include not only flowers but also cover motifs and geometrical shapes. The main characteristics of Phulkari embr ...
that was used throughout the plains of the Punjab region.
Saraiki shalwar suits There are two types of Saraiki shalwar suits which originate in the southern area of Punjab, Pakistan. These are the Bahawalpuri shalwar suit and the Multani shalwar suit. The two main suits from that area. Bahawalpuri shalwar suit The Bahawalpuri ...
are Punjabi outfits which include the Bahawalpuri shalwar suit and the Multani shalwar suit. The Bahawalpuri shalwar originates from the
Bahawalpur Bahawalpur () is a city in the Punjab province of Pakistan. With inhabitants as of 2017, it is Pakistan's 11th most populous city. Founded in 1748, Bahawalpur was the capital of the former princely state of Bahawalpur, ruled by the Abbasi fa ...
region of
Punjab, Pakistan Punjab (; , ) is one of the four provinces of Pakistan. Located in central-eastern region of the country, Punjab is the second-largest province of Pakistan by land area and the largest province by population. It shares land borders with the ...
. The Bahawalpuri shalwar is very wide and baggy with many voluminous folds. The material traditionally used for the Bahawalpuri shalwar and suthan is known as Sufi which is a mixture of cotton warp mixed with silk weft and gold threads running down the material. The other name for these types of mixed cloth is shuja khani. The Bahawalpuri shalwar is worn with the Bahawalpur style kameez, the Punjabi kurta or chola. File:Nawab Muhammad Of Bawalpur 1868-1900.JPG, Nawab Muhammad of Bahawalpur (1868-1900) wearing a loose Bahawalpuri shalwar File:Prince Suba Sadiq Abbasi.JPG, Prince Suba Sadiq Abbasi, Bahawalpur File:Bed Sheets - Bahawalpur Museum.jpg, Bahawalpur kameez File:Nawab Sadiq Khan Fifth.JPG, Nawab Sadiq Khan Fifth (died 1966) in the Bahawalpuri shalwar The Multani shalwar, also known as the 'ghaire wali' or 'Saraiki ghaire wali' shalwar as it is very wide around the waist, originates from the
Multan Multan (; ) is a city in Punjab, Pakistan, on the bank of the Chenab River. Multan is Pakistan's seventh largest city as per the 2017 census, and the major cultural, religious and economic centre of southern Punjab. Multan is one of the List ...
area of the Punjab region. The style is similar to the Sindhi kancha shalwar as both are derivatives of the pantaloon shalwar worn in
Iraq Iraq,; ku, عێراق, translit=Êraq officially the Republic of Iraq, '; ku, کۆماری عێراق, translit=Komarî Êraq is a country in Western Asia. It is bordered by Turkey to Iraq–Turkey border, the north, Iran to Iran–Iraq ...
and adopted in these locations during the 7th century A.D. The Multani shalwar is very wide, baggy, and full, and has folds like the Punjabi suthan. The upper garments include the Punjabi kameez and the chola of the Punjab region. An older variety of shalwar kameez of the Punjab region is the Punjabi suthan and kurta suit. The Punjabi suthan is a local variation of the ancient svasthana tight fitting trousers which have been used in the Punjab region since the ancient period and were worn with the tunic called varbana which was tight fitting. The Punjabi suthan is arranged in plaits and uses large amounts of material (traditionally coloured cotton with vertical silk lines, called sussi) of up to 20 yards hanging in many folds. The suthan ends at the ankles with a tight band which distinguishes the suthan from a shalwar. The modern equivalent of the loose Punjabi suthan are the cowl pants and dhoti shalwars which have many folds. Some versions of the Punjabi suthan tighten from the knees down to the ankles (a remnant of the svasthana). If a tight band is not used, the ends of the suthan fit closely around the ankles. The
Jodhpuri A Jodhpuri suit or Bandhgala (lit. closed neck) suit, is a formal suit from India. It originated in the Jodhpur State, and was popularized during mid 19th - mid 20th century in India. It consists of a coat and trousers, sometimes accompanie ...
breeches devised during the 1870s by Sir Pratap Singh of Jodhpur offer a striking slim line resemblance to the centuries-old tight Punjabi suthan, although the
churidar Churidars, also churidar pyjamas, are tightly fitting trousers worn by both men and women in Indian Subcontinent. Churidars are a variant of the common shalwar pants. Shalwars are cut wide at the top and narrow at the ankle. Churidars narrow more ...
is cited as its source. The tight pantaloon style suthan was popular with the Indian Cavalry during the 19th and early 20th centurie; they were dyed in Multani mutti or mitti (clay/
fuller's earth Fuller's earth is any clay material that has the capability to decolorize oil or other liquids without the use of harsh chemical treatment. Fuller's earth typically consists of palygorskite (attapulgite) or bentonite. Modern uses of fuller's ea ...
), which gave the garments a yellow colour. The kurta is a remnant of the 11th-century female kurtaka which was a shirt extending to the middle of the body with side slits worn in parts of north India which has remained a traditional garment for women in Punjab, albeit longer than the kurtaka. The suthan was traditionally worn with a long kurta but can also be worn with a short kurti or frocks. Modern versions of the kurta can be knee length. The head scarf is also traditionally long but again, modern versions are shorter. File:Nihang Singh and Nihang Singhani.jpg, 19th-century Punjabi suthan suit worn by the lady on the right File:Pahari women kashmir3.jpg, Women in Punjabi suthan 1890 File:Market Place, Bikanir 1896. Woman on left in loose Punjabi suthan suit.jpg, Woman on left in loose Punjabi suthan suit File:Punjabi Sikh woman in Amritsar Punjabi suthan and short kurta 1874.jpg, Punjabi woman in Punjabi suthan and short kurta, 1874 File:GuptaDanceMusic02.jpg, Ancient svasthana and varbana outfit worn during the
Gupta Empire The Gupta Empire was an ancient Indian empire which existed from the early 4th century CE to late 6th century CE. At its zenith, from approximately 319 to 467 CE, it covered much of the Indian subcontinent. This period is considered as the Gol ...
, the basis of the Punjabi suthan suit File:Sepoys of 20th Punjab Infantry and Hunza Gun. 1893. Men in Punjabi tight from knees suthan.jpg, Men in tight Punjabi suthan, 1893 File:Bharatpore maharajah.jpg, The Nawab Muhammad Bahawal Khan Abbasi V Bahadur (1883–1907) of Bahawalpur State in suthan File:Bertrand Blanchard Acosta in jodhpurs and goggles.tif, Bertrand Blanchard Acosta in jodhpurs and goggles
The outfit in
Jammu Jammu is the winter capital of the Indian union territory of Jammu and Kashmir (union territory), Jammu and Kashmir. It is the headquarters and the largest city in Jammu district of the union territory. Lying on the banks of the river Tawi Ri ...
is the Dogri kurta and suthan. When the tight part of the suthan, up to the knees, has multiple close fitting folds, the suthan is referred to as Dogri pants or suthan, in Jammu, and churidar suthan in the Punjab region and some parts of
Himachal Pradesh Himachal Pradesh (; ; "Snow-laden Mountain Province") is a state in the northern part of India. Situated in the Western Himalayas, it is one of the thirteen mountain states and is characterized by an extreme landscape featuring several peaks ...
. File:Dogri play Bawa Jitto directed by Balwant Thakur Produced in 1986 and still going strong.jpg, Men and boys wearing a knee length variation of the Punjabi ghuttana and Dogri kurta. The full suthan is tight from the knees to the ankles, associated with the Punjab region. File:Punjab Hills 1895. Kulu woman in churidar suthan. Himachal Pradesh.jpg, Punjab Hills 1895, Kulu woman in churidar suthan,
Himachal Pradesh Himachal Pradesh (; ; "Snow-laden Mountain Province") is a state in the northern part of India. Situated in the Western Himalayas, it is one of the thirteen mountain states and is characterized by an extreme landscape featuring several peaks ...


Sindhi suits

The traditional Sindhi shalwar, also called kancha,Burton, Richard (1996) Sindh and the Races that Inhabit the Valley of the Indus: With Notices of the Topography and History of heProvinc

/ref> are wide pantaloons which are wide down the legs and are also wide at the ankles. The Sindhi shalwar is plaited at the waist. The kancha shalwar is traditionally worn with either the Sindhi cholo (blouse) by women, or a knee length robe which flares out, by men. File:Baloch Man in Sindhi traditional pantaloon style 1845.jpg, Man in Sindhi traditional Kancha shalwar. File:Muslim girl karachi1870.jpg, Girl from Karachi, Sindh, in a shalwar and blouse. c. 1870. Oriental and India Office Collection, British Library File:Man in Sindhi angerkho top (1845).jpg, Man in Sindhi long angerkho (1845) Image:Muslim_girl_sind1870.jpg, Woman, in Sind, British India, in Sindhi slim kancha shalwar The other styles of shalwar kameez are Sindhi dress#Sindhi Suthan and Sindhi cholo, female Sindhi suthan and cholo and male Sindhi suthan and angelo. Image:Hindu girl karachi.jpg, Sindhi girl from
Karachi Karachi (; ur, ; ; ) is the most populous city in Pakistan and 12th most populous city in the world, with a population of over 20 million. It is situated at the southern tip of the country along the Arabian Sea coast. It is the former cap ...
,
Sind Sindh (; ; ur, , ; historically romanized as Sind) is one of the four provinces of Pakistan. Located in the southeastern region of the country, Sindh is the third-largest province of Pakistan by land area and the second-largest province ...
, in Sindhi cholo and narrow suthan. c. 1870


See also

*
Central Asian clothing In Central Asian countries such as Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Tajikistan, and as well as Afghanistan the tunic and loose trousers ensemble forms part of traditional costume. Men will wear turbans or hats with their tunics and sirwals whilst women ...
*
Chemise A chemise or shift is a classic smock, or a modern type of women's undergarment or dress. Historically, a chemise was a simple garment worn next to the skin to protect clothing from sweat and body oils, the precursor to the modern shirts commonl ...
*
Chikankari ] Chikankari ( hi, चिकन की कढ़ाई, चिकनकारी) is a traditional embroidery style from Lucknow, India. Translated, the word means embroidery (thread or wire), and it is one of Lucknow's best known textile decorat ...
*
Churidar Churidars, also churidar pyjamas, are tightly fitting trousers worn by both men and women in Indian Subcontinent. Churidars are a variant of the common shalwar pants. Shalwars are cut wide at the top and narrow at the ankle. Churidars narrow more ...
*
Dhoti The dhoti, also known as veshti, vetti, dhuti, mardani, chaadra, dhotar, jaiñboh, panchey, is a type of sarong, tied in a manner that outwardly resembles "loose trousers". It is a lower garment forming part of the ethnic costume for men in the I ...
*
Dupatta The dupattā is a Hindu shawl traditionally worn by women in Indian subcontinent to cover the head and shoulders. The dupatta is currently used most commonly as part of the women's shalwar kameez outfit, and worn over the kurta and the gharara. ...
*
Gagra choli Ghagra choli (also known as lehenga choli and locally as chaniya choli) is a type of ethnic clothing for women from the Indian Subcontinent, notably in the Indian states of Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Haryana, P ...
*
Khet partug Khetpartug ( ps, خت پړتوګ, ''khət paṛtūg'') ''khat partoog'', is a type of Pashtun clothing worn in Afghanistan and Pakistan. Origin Khetpartug is believed to have originated in Afghanistan. Design Khet The ''khet'' is the upper ...
*
Kurta A ''kurta'' is a loose collarless shirt or tunic worn in many regions of South Asia, (subscription required) Quote: "A loose shirt or tunic worn by men and women." Quote: "Kurta: a loose shirt without a collar, worn by women and men from South ...
*
Pencil skirt A pencil skirt is a slim-fitting skirt with a straight, narrow cut. Generally the hem falls to, or is just below, the knee and is tailored for a close fit. It is named for its shape: long and slim like a pencil. Style The pencil skirt may be w ...
* Pencil suit *
Perahan tunban ''Perahan tunban'' (Persian/ ps, پیراهن و تنبان, ''pērāhan wa tunbān''), also known as Peran o Tunban, is a garment worn by men in Afghanistan and in some parts of Pakistan. Design Traditional Perahan and Tunban The ''perahan'' (t ...
* Kashmiri phiran and poots *
Qamis Shalwar kameez (also salwar kameez and less commonly shalwar qameez) is a traditional combination dress worn by women, and in some regions by men, in South Asia, and Central Asia. ''Shalwars'' are trousers which are atypically wide at the wa ...
*
Sari A sari (sometimes also saree or shari)The name of the garment in various regional languages include: * as, শাৰী, xārī, translit-std=ISO * bn, শাড়ি, śāṛi, translit-std=ISO * gu, સાડી, sāḍī, translit-std= ...
*
Sherwani Sherwani is a long-sleeved outer coat worn by men in South Asia. Like the Western frock coat it is fitted, with some waist suppression; it falls to below the knees and is buttoned down the front. It can be collarless, have a shirt-style collar, ...
*
Sirwal Sirwal, also sherwal, saroual, seroual, sarouel or serouelSmith, Robin (199''American Civil War Zouaves'', p. 52. Osprey PublishingAt Google Books. Retrieved 23 August 2013. ( ar, سِرْوَال (''sirwāl''), (''šalvâr'') ku, شه‌واڵ ...
* Turkish salvar


Notes


Explanatory notes


Citations


General and cited references

* * * .


External links


''Himal'': "The Salwar Revolution"



Fatima Jinnah wearing shalwar qameez
{{Pakistani clothing Afghan clothing Indian clothing Indian culture Pakistani clothing Suits (clothing) Tops (clothing) Trousers and shorts