Swansea Canal
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The Swansea Canal (
Welsh Welsh may refer to: Related to Wales * Welsh, of or about Wales * Welsh language, spoken in Wales * Welsh people, an ethnic group native to Wales Places * Welsh, Arkansas, U.S. * Welsh, Louisiana, U.S. * Welsh, Ohio, U.S. * Welsh Basin, during t ...
: ''Camlas Abertawe'') was a
canal Canals or artificial waterways are waterways or engineered channels built for drainage management (e.g. flood control and irrigation) or for conveyancing water transport vehicles (e.g. water taxi). They carry free, calm surface ...
constructed by the Swansea Canal Navigation Company between 1794 and 1798, running for from
Swansea Swansea ( ; ) is a coastal City status in the United Kingdom, city and the List of urban areas in the United Kingdom, second-largest city of Wales. It forms a Principal areas of Wales, principal area, officially known as the City and County of ...
to Hen Neuadd,
Abercraf Abercraf (also ; or Abercrave) is a village in Powys, Wales, in the community of Ystradgynlais and within the historic boundaries of the county of Brecknockshire. A distinct dialect of English is spoken in the village, as well as the Welsh lang ...
in
South Wales South Wales ( ) is a Regions of Wales, loosely defined region of Wales bordered by England to the east and mid Wales to the north. Generally considered to include the Historic counties of Wales, historic counties of Glamorgan and Monmouthshire ( ...
. It was steeply graded, and 36 locks were needed to enable it to rise over its length. The main cargos were coal, iron and steel, and the enterprise was profitable. Sold to the Great Western Railway in 1873, it continued to make a profit until 1895. A period of decline followed, with the last commercial traffic using the waterway in 1931. Subsequently, parts of it were closed and filled in under a succession of owners, but around remain in water. The Swansea Canal Society, formed in 1981, is actively involved in plans for its restoration.


Background

The canal was constructed to transport
coal Coal is a combustible black or brownish-black sedimentary rock, formed as rock strata called coal seams. Coal is mostly carbon with variable amounts of other Chemical element, elements, chiefly hydrogen, sulfur, oxygen, and nitrogen. Coal i ...
from the upper
Swansea Valley The Swansea Valley (; ) is one of the South Wales Valleys. It is the valley from the Brecon Beacons National Park to the sea at Swansea of the River Tawe in Wales. Administration of the area is divided between the City and County of Swansea, Nea ...
to
Swansea docks Swansea Docks is the collective name for several docks in Swansea, Wales, which are immediately south-east of Swansea city centre. In the mid-19th century, the port was exporting 60% of the world's copper from factories situated in the Tawe Val ...
for export, or for use in the early metallurgical industries in the Lower Swansea Valley. The period 1830-1840 saw the development of towns and villages around the canal:
Abercraf Abercraf (also ; or Abercrave) is a village in Powys, Wales, in the community of Ystradgynlais and within the historic boundaries of the county of Brecknockshire. A distinct dialect of English is spoken in the village, as well as the Welsh lang ...
, Clydach,
Penwyllt Penwyllt ( Welsh: "wild headland") is a hamlet located in the upper Swansea Valley in Powys, Wales, lying within the Brecon Beacons National Park. A former quarrying village, quicklime and silica brick production centre, its fortunes rose and f ...
,
Pontardawe Pontardawe () is a town and a community (Wales), community in the lower Swansea Valley (). it had a population of approximately 7,172 in the 2021 Census for Pontardawe Parish, and forms part of the county borough of Neath Port Talbot. On the opp ...
, Ynysmeudwy,
Ystalyfera Ystalyfera is a former industrial village and community in the upper Swansea Valley, on the River Tawe, about northeast of Swansea. It is an electoral ward and a community in the unitary authority of Neath Port Talbot, Wales, comprising a r ...
and
Ystradgynlais Ystradgynlais (; ) is a town in southwest Powys, Wales. It is located on the River Tawe, and was within the boundaries of the former county of Brecknockshire. The town has a high proportion of Welsh language-speakers. The community includes C ...
came into being as early industries developed at those locations. In 1817,
Fforest Fawr Fforest Fawr (, ) is an extensive upland area in the county of Powys, Wales. Formerly known as the Great Forest of Brecknock in English, it was a royal hunting area for several centuries but is now used primarily for sheep grazing, forestry, wate ...
(English: Great
Forest A forest is an ecosystem characterized by a dense ecological community, community of trees. Hundreds of definitions of forest are used throughout the world, incorporating factors such as tree density, tree height, land use, legal standing, ...
of
Brecon Brecon (; ; ), archaically known as Brecknock, is a market town in Powys, mid Wales. In 1841, it had a population of 5,701. The population in 2001 was 7,901, increasing to 8,250 at the 2011 census. Historically it was the county town of Breck ...
) was
enclosed Enclosure or inclosure is a term, used in English landownership, that refers to the appropriation of "waste" or "common land", enclosing it, and by doing so depriving commoners of their traditional rights of access and usage. Agreements to enc ...
and divided into fields. It covered an area of and was owned by the Crown, having originally been used for hunting by Norman lords. The Crown decided to sell it in 1812 to help fund the
Napoleonic Wars {{Infobox military conflict , conflict = Napoleonic Wars , partof = the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars , image = Napoleonic Wars (revision).jpg , caption = Left to right, top to bottom:Battl ...
, but local people with rights to graze sheep and cattle on the
common land Common land is collective land (sometimes only open to those whose nation governs the land) in which all persons have certain common rights, such as to allow their livestock to graze upon it, to collect wood, or to cut turf for fuel. A person ...
objected. were sold to cover the cost of the Enclosure Commission, and around one third of the total area was offered for sale in 1819. Some two-thirds of this land was bought by an industrialist and
London London is the Capital city, capital and List of urban areas in the United Kingdom, largest city of both England and the United Kingdom, with a population of in . London metropolitan area, Its wider metropolitan area is the largest in Wester ...
businessman called John Christie. Christie had already developed a
limestone Limestone is a type of carbonate rock, carbonate sedimentary rock which is the main source of the material Lime (material), lime. It is composed mostly of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different Polymorphism (materials science) ...
quarry A quarry is a type of open-pit mining, open-pit mine in which dimension stone, rock (geology), rock, construction aggregate, riprap, sand, gravel, or slate is excavated from the ground. The operation of quarries is regulated in some juri ...
at
Penwyllt Penwyllt ( Welsh: "wild headland") is a hamlet located in the upper Swansea Valley in Powys, Wales, lying within the Brecon Beacons National Park. A former quarrying village, quicklime and silica brick production centre, its fortunes rose and f ...
, and decided to develop
lime kiln A lime kiln is a kiln used for the calcination of limestone (calcium carbonate) to produce the form of lime called ''quicklime'' (calcium oxide). The chemical equation for this reaction is: CaCO3 + heat → CaO + CO2 This reaction can tak ...
s there as well. In 1820 he moved to
Brecon Brecon (; ; ), archaically known as Brecknock, is a market town in Powys, mid Wales. In 1841, it had a population of 5,701. The population in 2001 was 7,901, increasing to 8,250 at the 2011 census. Historically it was the county town of Breck ...
, and developed the
Brecon Forest Tramroad The Brecon Forest Tramroad is an early nineteenth century Tramway (industrial), tramroad, or rather a network of connecting tramroads or waggonways, which stretched across the hills of Fforest Fawr in the historic county of Brecknockshire (modern ...
. This network consisted eventually of over of tracks connecting the farms of
Sennybridge Sennybridge () is a village in Powys, Wales, in the historic county of Brecknockshire, situated some from Cardiff and from Swansea. It lies west of Brecon on the A40 trunk road to Llandovery, at the point where the Afon Senni flows into th ...
and Fforest Fawr (where Christie wanted to improve the land through application of lime), with the
charcoal Charcoal is a lightweight black carbon residue produced by strongly heating wood (or other animal and plant materials) in minimal oxygen to remove all water and volatile constituents. In the traditional version of this pyrolysis process, ca ...
burning centres and coal extraction below Fforest Fawr, with the lime kilns at
Penwyllt Penwyllt ( Welsh: "wild headland") is a hamlet located in the upper Swansea Valley in Powys, Wales, lying within the Brecon Beacons National Park. A former quarrying village, quicklime and silica brick production centre, its fortunes rose and f ...
and
ironworks An ironworks or iron works is an industrial plant where iron is smelted and where heavy iron and steel products are made. The term is both singular and plural, i.e. the singular of ''ironworks'' is ''ironworks''. Ironworks succeeded bloome ...
at
Ystradgynlais Ystradgynlais (; ) is a town in southwest Powys, Wales. It is located on the River Tawe, and was within the boundaries of the former county of Brecknockshire. The town has a high proportion of Welsh language-speakers. The community includes C ...
, and the Swansea Canal dock for other industries downstream. Before he could complete the system, he went
bankrupt Bankruptcy is a legal process through which people or other entities who cannot repay debts to creditors may seek relief from some or all of their debts. In most jurisdictions, bankruptcy is imposed by a court order, often initiated by the de ...
.


History

With the development of Swansea harbour from the 1760s, consideration was given as to how the rich mineral resources of the Tawe valley could be moved to the coast. In 1790, William Padley surveyed the valley for a possible canal route, and in 1791 the passing of the Neath Canal Act 1791 ( 31 Geo. 3. c.85) to authorise the nearby
Neath Canal The Neath and Tennant Canals are two independent but linked canals in South Wales that are usually regarded as a single canal. The Neath Canal was opened from Glynneath to Melincryddan, to the south of Neath, in 1795 and extended to Giant's Gr ...
resulted in calls for a public meeting. A meeting held on 5 April 1793 appointed the canal engineer
Thomas Sheasby Thomas Sheasby, Senior (c.1740–1799) was a British civil engineer and contractor. His early work involved bridge construction, after which he went on to build canals, including several in South Wales. He was imprisoned for a time when there ...
to conduct a survey. The plans were opposed by the
Duke of Beaufort Duke of Beaufort ( ) is a title in the Peerage of England. It was created by Charles II in 1682 for Henry Somerset, 3rd Marquess of Worcester, a descendant of Charles Somerset, 1st Earl of Worcester, legitimised son of Henry Beaufort, 3rd D ...
and other traders, who wanted the canal to terminate further up the river near Landore and Morriston, where they already had wharfs. Swansea Corporation favoured the route into Swansea, and offered to contribute towards its cost, whereupon the Duke, his son the
Marquess of Worcester A marquess (; ) is a nobleman of high hereditary rank in various European peerages and in those of some of their former colonies. The German-language equivalent is Markgraf (margrave). A woman with the rank of a marquess or the wife (or widow) ...
and the duke's agent withdrew their subscriptions. This action stirred others to subscribe, and £52,000 was raised almost immediately. Ultimately, a compromise was reached, with the canal terminating in Swansea, but the duke constructing of canal from Nant Rhydyfiliast to Nant Felin, on which he was allowed to charge tolls, which could not exceed the tolls charged by the canal company for use of the rest of the canal. The duke's section was called the Trewyddfa Canal, but was part of the main line. An act of Parliament authorising the construction, the ( 34 Geo. 3. c. 109), was passed on 23 May 1794, and the Swansea Canal Company were empowered to raise £60,000 by issuing shares, and a further £30,000 if required. They were also authorised to build tramways to any places within of the canal, and canal branches to places within . The new company took the unusual step of appointing all shareholders who held five or more shares to a steering committee, rather than electing a management committee, and of building the canal using direct labour, rather than appointing contractors. Charles Roberts was the engineer in charge of the project, and was assisted by Thomas Sheasby. The first section of the canal from Swansea to Godre'r-Graig was opened in 1796, and the whole length of was completed by October 1798. Civil engineering works included 36 locks and five aqueducts to carry the canal across major tributaries of the
River Tawe The River Tawe (; ) is a long river in South Wales. Its headwaters flow initially east from its source below Llyn y Fan Fawr south of Glasfynydd Forest, Moel Feity in the Black Mountain (range), Black Mountains, the westernmost range of the ...
, at Clydach,
Pontardawe Pontardawe () is a town and a community (Wales), community in the lower Swansea Valley (). it had a population of approximately 7,172 in the 2021 Census for Pontardawe Parish, and forms part of the county borough of Neath Port Talbot. On the opp ...
, Ynysmeudwy,
Ystalyfera Ystalyfera is a former industrial village and community in the upper Swansea Valley, on the River Tawe, about northeast of Swansea. It is an electoral ward and a community in the unitary authority of Neath Port Talbot, Wales, comprising a r ...
, and
Cwmgiedd Cwmgiedd is a small village beside the River Giedd within the community of Ystradgynlais, Powys, Wales. It lies 22.5 km (15 miles) north-east of Swansea and 253 km (157 miles) west of London. '' The Silent Village'', a 1943 British pr ...
. The locks on the main section were , but those on the Duke's section were only long, and this restricted the maximum length of boats. The locks raised the canal from near
sea level Mean sea level (MSL, often shortened to sea level) is an mean, average surface level of one or more among Earth's coastal Body of water, bodies of water from which heights such as elevation may be measured. The global MSL is a type of vertical ...
at Swansea through to reach Abercraf. At Swansea, wharfs were built alongside the river, where cargo could be transhipped into coasters. Unusually for such projects, the final cost was well within budget, with the project costing £51,602 up to mid-1798. The steering committee approach obviously worked well, as it was retained until the company was wound up. in 1804 proposals were made to extend the canal along the seafront from Swansea to
Mumbles Mumbles () is a headland sited on the western edge of Swansea Bay on the southern coast of Wales. Toponym Mumbles has been noted for its place names considered unusual, unusual place name. The headland is thought by some to have been named by ...
. The purpose was to transport limestone from the quarries at Oystermouth and coal from the Clyne Valley, and to develop Mumbles as a harbour and shipping port. Discussion of the plans played out in the pages of the Cambrian Newspaper, with opponents proposing that it made more sense to further develop facilities at Swansea. Although the idea was supported by Swansea Corporation, the canal company were not keen, and the extension was not built. Instead, the Oystermouth Railway or Tramroad Act 1804 ( 44 Geo. 3. c. lv) was obtained to authorise the construction of a tramway from Swansea to Oystermouth.


Operations

The boats were long, wide and carried 22
ton Ton is any of several units of measure of mass, volume or force. It has a long history and has acquired several meanings and uses. As a unit of mass, ''ton'' can mean: * the '' long ton'', which is * the ''tonne'', also called the ''metric ...
s of cargo when fully laden. The last
narrowboat A narrowboat is a particular type of Barge, canal boat, built to fit the narrow History of the British canal system, locks of the United Kingdom. The UK's canal system provided a nationwide transport network during the Industrial Revolution, b ...
built on this canal was 'Grace Darling' in 1918 at the Godre'r Graig boat yard. The opening of the canal caused an increase in industrial activity along the valley, with a number of manufacturing companies setting up works by its banks. Four short branch canals were constructed, and a network of tramways gradually linked mines and quarries to the canal. In 1804, 54,235 tons of coal and culm were carried, and profits were sufficient to enable a dividend of 3 per cent to be paid. Receipts and dividends rose steadily, reaching £10,522 and 14 per cent in 1840, while in 1860 they were £13,800 and 18 per cent. There are few records of how much traffic was carried, but estimates based on the amount of coal and culm shipped from Swansea Docks suggest around 386,000 tons in 1839. The opening of the
Tennant Canal The Neath and Tennant Canals are two independent but linked canals in South Wales that are usually regarded as a single canal. The Neath Canal was opened from Glynneath to Melincryddan, to the south of Neath, in 1795 and extended to Giant's Gr ...
to Swansea Docks in 1824 resulted in the Swansea Canal's riverside wharfs being improved, and tolls were reduced to maintain trade levels. The harbour facilities at Swansea were upgraded in 1852, when the River Tawe was diverted into a new channel to the east, and the original channel, which included the trans-shipment wharfs, became a floating harbour. A lock was constructed to give the canal boats direct access to the half-tide basin above the North Dock, and a loop of the canal was constructed along the edge of the new harbour.


Decline

The first suggestions that a railway should be constructed along the Tawe Valley, which would be in direct competition to the canal, were made in 1830. More serious railway proposals were made in 1845, when the canal company agreed to lease the canal to the Welsh Midland Railway for £4,264 per year, but the scheme foundered. Another scheme to lease the canal to the
Neath and Brecon Railway The Dulas Valley Mineral Railway was incorporated in 1862 to bring coal from the Onllwyn area north-east of Neath to the quays there, and in the following year was reconstituted as the Neath and Brecon Railway. The line was opened as far as Onllw ...
for £9,000 per year in 1864 also foundered. The 1860s were a hard time for the canal, as the steel industry gradually replaced the iron industry, and ironworks contracted or closed. In 1871, the company approached the
Great Western Railway The Great Western Railway (GWR) was a History of rail transport in Great Britain, British railway company that linked London with the southwest, west and West Midlands (region), West Midlands of England and most of Wales. It was founded in 1833, ...
, and negotiated a price of £107,666 for the main Swansea Canal, and £40,000 for the Duke of Beaufort's Trewyddfa Canal. The sale was authorised by the Great Western Railway (Swansea Canal) Act 1872 ( 35 & 36 Vict. c. clii) and took effect on 31 January 1873. Rather than run it down, the Great Western Railway ran the canal well, and it remained
profitable In economics, profit is the difference between revenue that an economic entity has received from its outputs and total costs of its inputs, also known as surplus value. It is equal to total revenue minus total cost, including both explicit an ...
until 1895, when losses were first reported, though it recovered a little between 1898 and 1902. The tonnage of coal carried on the canal was very high, with 385,000 tons transported down the canal to Swansea in 1888 alone. The last commercial cargo carried on the Swansea Canal was in 1931, when coal was conveyed from Clydach to
Swansea Swansea ( ; ) is a coastal City status in the United Kingdom, city and the List of urban areas in the United Kingdom, second-largest city of Wales. It forms a Principal areas of Wales, principal area, officially known as the City and County of ...
. Boats continued to operate on the canal after that date but only for maintenance work, with horse-drawn boats last recorded at Clydach in 1958. The canal was gradually abandoned, under the terms of a series of acts of Parliament, starting with the Great Western Railway (Swansea North Dock Abandonment) Act 1928 ( 18 & 19 Geo. 5. c. xxxiii) and the Great Western Railway Act 1931 ( 21 & 22 Geo. 5. c. lxi). The canal was nationalised in 1947 and became part of the
British Transport Commission The British Transport Commission (BTC) was created by Clement Attlee's post-war Labour government as a part of its nationalisation programme, to oversee railways, canals and road freight transport in Great Britain (Northern Ireland had the s ...
, whose British Transport Commission Act 1949 ( 12, 13 & 14 Geo. 6. c. xxix) and British Transport Commission Act 1957 ( 5 & 6 Eliz. 2. c. xxxiii) brought further closures. The remainder was closed under the terms of the British Transport Commission Act 1962 ( 10 & 11 Eliz. 2. c. xlii), when control of the canal passed to
British Waterways British Waterways, often shortened to BW, was a statutory corporation wholly owned by the government of the United Kingdom. It served as the navigation authority for the majority of canals and a number of rivers and docks in England, Scotlan ...
, who remained responsible for the maintenance of the waterway and its structures until 2012, when they were superseded by the
Canal and River Trust The Canal & River Trust (CRT), branded as in Wales, holds the guardianship of 2,000 miles of canals and rivers, together with reservoirs and a wide range of heritage buildings and structures, in England and Wales. Launched on 12 July 2012, the ...
, known in Wales as Glandŵr Cymru. Although navigation had ceased, the channel was maintained to provide a water supply to the
Mond Nickel Company The Mond Nickel Company Limited was a United Kingdom-based mining company, formed on September 20, 1900, licensed in Canada to carry on business in the province of Ontario, from October 16, 1900. The firm was founded by Ludwig Mond (1839–1909) ...
works at Clydach.


Present

In-filling of much of the canal has taken place in the past 50 years. The northern section was affected by the creation of the A4067 road around
Ystradgynlais Ystradgynlais (; ) is a town in southwest Powys, Wales. It is located on the River Tawe, and was within the boundaries of the former county of Brecknockshire. The town has a high proportion of Welsh language-speakers. The community includes C ...
, while the southern section below Clydach had been infilled by 1982, as part of the work associated with the A4067 dual carriageway. Just of the canal remains in water, from Clydach to
Pontardawe Pontardawe () is a town and a community (Wales), community in the lower Swansea Valley (). it had a population of approximately 7,172 in the 2021 Census for Pontardawe Parish, and forms part of the county borough of Neath Port Talbot. On the opp ...
where it is now a popular trail and is part of route 43 of the
National Cycle Network The National Cycle Network (NCN) was established to encourage cycling and walking throughout the United Kingdom, as well as for the purposes of bicycle touring. It was created by the charity Sustrans who were aided by a £42.5 million N ...
. In 1997 they applied to the Millennium Fund for money to advance their vision, but this was rejected when Associated British Ports indicated that they were against the proposal for a connecting link to the
Neath and Tennant Canal The Neath and Tennant Canals are two independent but linked canals in South Wales that are usually regarded as a single canal. The Neath Canal was opened from Glynneath to Melincryddan, to the south of Neath, in 1795 and extended to Giant's Gr ...
. The canal empties from an aqueduct into the
Lower Clydach River The Lower Clydach River is a river in South Wales which rises on the slopes of Mynydd y Betws west of Cwmgors and flows for around 10 km through Cwm Clydach to its confluence with the River Tawe at Clydach. It runs through the RSPB T ...
at the point where it joins the
River Tawe The River Tawe (; ) is a long river in South Wales. Its headwaters flow initially east from its source below Llyn y Fan Fawr south of Glasfynydd Forest, Moel Feity in the Black Mountain (range), Black Mountains, the westernmost range of the ...
. A project is underway to dredge the canal and to remove the
Japanese knotweed ''Reynoutria japonica'', synonyms ''Fallopia japonica'' and ''Polygonum cuspidatum'', is a species of herbaceous perennial plant in the knotweed and buckwheat family Polygonaceae. Common names include Japanese knotweed and Asian knotweed. It is ...
that grows extensively around the
Swansea Valley The Swansea Valley (; ) is one of the South Wales Valleys. It is the valley from the Brecon Beacons National Park to the sea at Swansea of the River Tawe in Wales. Administration of the area is divided between the City and County of Swansea, Nea ...
. The canal is an important
habitat In ecology, habitat refers to the array of resources, biotic factors that are present in an area, such as to support the survival and reproduction of a particular species. A species' habitat can be seen as the physical manifestation of its ...
for water
bird Birds are a group of warm-blooded vertebrates constituting the class (biology), class Aves (), characterised by feathers, toothless beaked jaws, the Oviparity, laying of Eggshell, hard-shelled eggs, a high Metabolism, metabolic rate, a fou ...
s and for
eel Eels are ray-finned fish belonging to the order Anguilliformes (), which consists of eight suborders, 20 families, 164 genera, and about 1000 species. Eels undergo considerable development from the early larval stage to the eventual adult stage ...
s. Local youngsters from Clydach often set up fishing off the banks of the canal to catch the eels. In 1981, the Swansea Canal Society was formed, and have been working towards restoration of the remaining sections of the canal. They has done much to improve the physical environment of the canal, and have proposed the development of a cruising route in conjunction with a restored Neath and Tennant Canal. On 23 October 1998, after heavy rainfall, water levels in the canal rose, and at Pontardawe, spilled over the towpath and down an embankment. The flow caused the bank to fail, and the breach caused extensive flooding. Thirty houses, some industrial units and town centre shops were affected, with the water up to deep in places. In early 2003, British Waterways produced a document entitled ''Waterways for Wales: Improved quality of life through the sustainable development of the Waterways of Wales''. The Welsh Assembly supported the aims of the document, recognising that restored canals stimulated economic regeneration in rural areas. They mentioned that the project to restore both the Swansea Canal and the Neath and Tennant would cost around £55 million. In early 2019, the canal received a grant of £320,000 from the Welsh Government's Rural Development programme. The grant was to fund the dredging of around of the canal from Trebanos to Coed Gwilym Park in Clydach. This section was already used by a canoe hire business, but the extra depth would allow it to be used by a trip boat, and as a destination for trail boats. Glandŵr Cymru was responsible for organising the dredging, with work due to start in the autumn of 2019. Conservation of a number of the structures along the canal would also be funded by the grant, which marks the first stage of a ten-year plan to market the canal as a heritage, visitor and leisure destination. The canal society were awarded £967,000 from the UK Government’s Shared Prosperity Fund in March 2024, to fund the restoration of Clydach Lock, which had been buried beneath a council depot since 1976, and of canal adjacent to the lock. Restoration of the lock was expected to be completed in April 2025.


Route


Northern section

The upper terminus of the Swansea Canal was a large basin situated to the west of Aber-craf, close to an 'S'-bend in the River Tawe. There was an iron works nearby, and two tramways linked it to limestone quarries near the summit of
Cribarth Cribarth (nicknamed the ''Sleeping Giant'') is a hill in the Brecon Beacons National Park, Powys, Wales, in the traditional county of Brecknockshire. The summit lies on the broken ridge at an elevation of at OS grid reference SN 831143. To its ...
, a hill to the north-east. There were 33 large quarries near the summit, and many smaller ones, which were served by of tramways. Differences in level were handled by 18
inclined planes An inclined plane, also known as a ramp, is a flat supporting surface tilted at an angle from the vertical direction, with one end higher than the other, used as an aid for raising or lowering a load. The inclined plane is one of the six clas ...
, built at various times between 1794, when the canal opened, and the 1890s, when quarrying ceased. The main line built by John Christie in the 1820s included four consecutive inclines. Early tramways were built to a gauge of , but this was later superseded by . The ''Rheola Arms'' public house was sandwiched between the basin and the river, and the ''Lamb and Flag Inn'' was located on the south bank of the river, just across a bridge. The canal headed south-west, to pass through the two Cae'r Bont Locks at Ynys-bydafau. There was a brickworks, some saw pits, and a lime kiln by the second lock,Ordnance Survey, 1:2500 map, 1878, 1904Ordnance Survey, 1:25,000 map, 2010 as well as a dock and dry dock, built by Christie in 1825. From the dock, a tramway crossed the river and ascended to
Mynydd y Drum Mynydd y Drum is a hill on the border between the county of Powys and Neath Port Talbot County Borough, south Wales. The summit of the hill is in Neath Port Talbot (formerly the county of Glamorgan) at 298m and lies towards the western end of a ...
by three inclined planes. Parts of it were originally the Gwaunclawdd Colliery tramroad, and although much of Mynydd y Drum has been stripped away by opencast mining, the entrance to the colliery survives. The modern A4067 road runs along the canal from the basin to just after the first lock, and then veers southwards to cross the river. The canal continues to the west of the river, passing through the first of the three Ynys Uchaf Locks, before it turned sharply to the west, where there were two more locks. The road recrosses the river and once more follows the course of the canal from the bend. Before reaching Ynys Isaf, there was a much wider section of canal. The two Ynys Isaf Locks were located to the south west of the hamlet, either side of the ''Ship Inn''. The first of several aqueducts carried the canal over the
River Giedd The River Giedd (Welsh: ) is a principal tributary of the River Tawe, Wales. The river runs within the county of Powys and lies almost wholly within the Brecon Beacons National Park (Parc Cenedlaethol Bannau Brycheiniog). This river is perhaps un ...
, where there were limekilns. Ystradgynlais Lock was near Bryn-y-groes, as the establishment of the town of
Ystradgynlais Ystradgynlais (; ) is a town in southwest Powys, Wales. It is located on the River Tawe, and was within the boundaries of the former county of Brecknockshire. The town has a high proportion of Welsh language-speakers. The community includes C ...
to the east of the river was a later development. There was another wider section, which by 1878 was already marked "Old Quarry", but had a coal stage associated with Pant-mawr Colliery by 1904. The ''Star Inn'' and the ''Ynys Cedwyn Arms'' were both located on the east bank. At Gorof there were two more locks, one to the north and the other to the south of the bridge. There was also a waterwheel by the second lock, one of 42 positioned along the canal. By 1904, a tramway from the Pant-mawr Colliery ran along the western bank of the canal, and crossed the head of the lower lock to reach railway sidings from the Ynyscedwyn Branch of the Midland Railway. There were two more locks further to the west at Pen-y-Gorof. The Ynyscedwyn Branch met the Ynyscedwyn Works Branch near the lower one, and crossed over its tail. The railway followed the course of the earlier Claypon's Tramway Extension, built by Joseph Claypon between 1832 and 1834. He had become the owner of the Brecon Forest Tramways in 1829, on the bankruptcy of Christie. It linked the Drum Colliery to Gurnos Wharf, and he intended to use locomotives on it, although locomotive working from end to end would not have been possible, because there was a large incline in the middle. This was powered, rather than being self-acting, as he wanted to develop traffic northwards from Gurnos onto the Brecon Forest Tramways. The double-track Ynysgedwyn incline is one of the most impressive structures of its type in south Wales which still survive, rising along its length. The gradient increases from 1 in 8 at its foot to 1 in 5 at its head, where there are the remains of an engine house. Just below the bridge where the tramway crossed the canal, a branch canal was built to serve the Ynysgedwyn Ironworks. It curves along the edge of a sportsground and playing field, and the former towing path is now a public footpath. Continuing to the south west, the main line of the canal then turned towards the south. The A4067 road leaves the canal briefly, to follow the track of the railway, and the canal is marked by a minor road and public footpath, until it reaches the roundabout on the B4599 Gurnos Road. A short length of the canal survives below the roundabout, where it crosses the River Twrch on an aqueduct. This was one of the first in Britain to be built using hydraulic mortar, and was restored in 1995, although it contains no water. There were two locks at Gurnos, one by a corn mill and the second by the railway station. The A4067 rejoins the canal bed below the station, and is flanked by Canal Terrace to the west. There was a small brickworks by the terrace, and the much larger Ystalyfera Iron and Tinplate Works a little further along the canal. This included a row of eleven
blast furnace A blast furnace is a type of metallurgical furnace used for smelting to produce industrial metals, generally pig iron, but also others such as lead or copper. ''Blast'' refers to the combustion air being supplied above atmospheric pressure. In a ...
s, making it the largest such installation in South Wales, and the tinplate works was the largest in the world. The canal passed to the west of the Tinplate Works, but the road passes along its eastern edge. From Ystalyfera to Godre'r-graig, the canal is virtually straight, but the road is offset slightly to the east. The road has made the channel narrower, but the remains of six of the seven locks are still visible, and there are other industrial buildings which were associated with the canal still in existence. The narrowed channel, which is wide, is owned by the Canal and River Trust, and acts as a feeder from the River Tawe. By Godre'r-graig, the canal turns to the west, but the road continues southwards. Around of the canal between the parting and Ynysmeudwy is owned by
Neath Port Talbot County Borough Council Neath Port Talbot County Borough Council (or simply Neath Port Talbot Council) is the local authority for the county borough of Neath Port Talbot, one of the 22 Principal areas of Wales, principal areas of Wales. The council was controlled by the ...
, and is managed as a nature reserve.


Middle section

Most of the next is in water, and some of it has been restored. After the unrestored Cilmaengwyn lock, the canal is crossed by the B4603 road and almost immediately crosses the Cwmdu Aqueduct. The minor bridge below the aqueduct was known as Pottery Bridge, for there was a pottery nearby from 1850.
China clay Kaolinite ( ; also called kaolin) is a clay mineral, with the chemical composition aluminium, Al2Silicon, Si2Oxygen, O5(hydroxide, OH)4. It is a layered silicate mineral, with one tetrahedron, tetrahedral sheet of silica () linked through oxygen ...
was brought up the canal by barge, and a wide variety of items were manufactured by the workforce, which consisted of 112 people at its peak. Many of the items made are now collectible. By 1898, its site was occupied by a tinplate works, which was served by a siding connecting to a railway on the far side of the river. Ynysmeudwy Upper and Lower Locks are below the bridge. By 1878, the lower lock was crossed by a railway connecting the Cwm-nant-du Collieries to a Patent Fuel Works, by the lock, and continuing over the river to join the railway line. The collieries were disused by 1898, and only a short section of the railway line remained, as the link over the lock and river had been removed. Next came a branch from the main line of the canal to the side of the river, with a dock at the end. A tramway connected the dock to the Waun-y-coed Colliery on the south bank of the river, and there were tramway connections to the Cwm-nant-llwyd Colliery to the south and another to the north-east. The branch is clearly visible from the bridge where the A road crosses, but there are no structures visible any longer of the dock itself and it is difficult to walk to this section due to the growth of brambles etc. The canal is navigable from Ynysmeudwy Lower Lock to
Pontardawe Pontardawe () is a town and a community (Wales), community in the lower Swansea Valley (). it had a population of approximately 7,172 in the 2021 Census for Pontardawe Parish, and forms part of the county borough of Neath Port Talbot. On the opp ...
, where further progress is blocked by Ynysgylennen Bridge, which has been lowered. The canal continues a little further, passing under Herbert Street Bridge and over Upper Clydach Aqueduct, before disappearing into a culvert. The culverted section once contained a dock and the two Pontardawe Locks. The Pontardawe Tin Plate Works was located immediately to the east of the canal between the locks, and by 1878 was served by railway sidings which crossed the river to reach the works. Approaching
Trebanos Trebanos () is a village in the Swansea Valley, Wales. With Craig Trebanos and a part of Pontardawe, it forms the Trebanos electoral ward in the Neath Port Talbot county borough. Controversy and opposition concerning the South Wales Gas Pip ...
, the canal re-emerges from its culvert, to reach Trebanos Lock and Green Lock. The Pheasant Bush Tin Works beside Trebanos Lock was disused by 1898. By Coedgwilym Park, the canal turns briefly to the west, to pass under the B4603 Pontardawe Road bridge, and then there was another short culverted section beneath a council depot, which was the location of a lock. You could walk around the council depot and the drop in level between each end was quite noticeable. John Evans, the man charged with demolishing the lock when the depot was being constructed in the 1970s, ignored instructions and deliberately left most of the lock undamaged, in the hope that one day it could be restored with the minimum of effort. The council depot has since been closed, and the towpath was reinstated through the site. The infilled section above the lock was reopened in late 2023, when the local MP Tonia Antoniazzi cut a rope to formally mark the completion of the work. Mark Evans, the director of the Canal and River Trust's Wales and South West division and the son of John Evans, was also present at the ceremony. Funding of £220,000 for the project came from the
Welsh Government The Welsh Government ( ) is the Executive (government), executive arm of the Welsh devolution, devolved government of Wales. The government consists of Cabinet secretary, cabinet secretaries and Minister of State, ministers. It is led by the F ...
's Brilliant Basics fund, which is used to finance small scale projects that will benefit tourism. Some work has been done to investigate the lock, and although the top of the lock walls were removed at the time the depot was built, what was left was carefully repointed, preserving the integrity of the lower walls. There was a short tramway from below the lock to Ynys-penllwch Graig-ola Colliery. Mond Lock was next, with the B4603 crossing the tail of the lock. Below the bridge is the Mond Nickel Works, set up in 1900 after the chemist Dr
Ludwig Mond Ludwig Mond FRS (7 March 1839 – 11 December 1909) was a German-born British chemist and industrialist. He discovered an important, previously unknown, class of compounds called metal carbonyls. Education and career Ludwig Mond was born in ...
discovered a process for producing pure
nickel Nickel is a chemical element; it has symbol Ni and atomic number 28. It is a silvery-white lustrous metal with a slight golden tinge. Nickel is a hard and ductile transition metal. Pure nickel is chemically reactive, but large pieces are slo ...
. Nickel ore was imported from Canada, and the site was chosen because there were supplies of
anthracite coal Anthracite, also known as hard coal and black coal, is a hard, compact variety of coal that has a submetallic lustre. It has the highest carbon content, the fewest impurities, and the highest energy density of all types of coal and is the highe ...
, water, transport links to Swansea, and an available labour force. The canal crosses the Lower Clydach River on an aqueduct, which discharges water into the river, and the watered section comes to an abrupt halt about further on.


Southern section

The next lock was located at Ynystawe in the industrial estate to the south-west of the current terminus. In 1879, it was surrounded by a gas works, a brick works, Clydach Foundry, a tinplate works, and a network of railway sidings radiating from near Cwm Clydach railway station. The canal turned to the south, to run beside the river, and then to the south-west, where it ran parallel to the
Swansea Vale Railway The Swansea Vale Railway (SVR) was a railway line connecting the port of Swansea in South Wales to industries and coalfields along the River Tawe on the northern margin of Swansea, by taking over a tramroad in 1846. It was extended to Brynamman ...
. The course of both is now marked by the A4067 road. Junction 45 on the
M4 motorway The M4, originally the London-South Wales Motorway, is the third longest motorway in the United Kingdom, running from west London to southwest Wales. The English section to the Severn Bridge was constructed between 1961 and 1971; the Welsh ele ...
is built over the route of the canal. At Tirpenry, the canal swerved to the west, while the railway passed along the eastern edge of the Midland Tinplate Works and the Morriston Tinplate Works. The A4067 follows the course of the railway at this point, but resumes following the bed of the canal a little further to the south. From this point southwards, the canal was surrounded by a large variety of industrial works around 1900. This included the Tir Penry chemical works and the Union chemical works; Morriston Pottery and Copper Pit, which was a coal pit; Forest spelter works and Morriston spelter works; Rose copper works, Plas Marl coal pit and Landore copper works; Millbrook iron works, Landore tinplate works and Landore Siemens steel works. A tramway crossed the canal to reach the Hafod copper works, a little further to the east of the canal. Next was Hafod phosphate works, where there was a lock with a dock just above it on the eastern bank, and Hafod nickel and cobalt works, where there was another lock, with dry docks on the western bank below it. The final section of the canal is marked by the location of Morfa Road, running beside the railway tracks that lead to Swansea's High Street railway station. To the east was the North Dock, and there was a network of wharfs and two more locks, one leading into the dock, with a final loop built to service the main part of the North Dock. The North Dock was closed in 1930, as a result of the development of new docks to the east of the Tawe, although the half-tide basin at its southern end remained in use until 1969.


Connections southwards

Restoration of the original route to Clydach would not be possible, but since the construction of
Swansea Barrage The Swansea barrage (or the Tawe barrage) is a structure near the mouth of the River Tawe in Swansea, Wales. It was completed in 1992, creating a marina which extended the leisure boat facilities already being offered by the former South Dock. ...
across Swansea Bay, water levels in the River Tawe are maintained at all states of the tide, and so it could be used to reach
Llansamlet Llansamlet is a suburban district and Community (Wales), community of Swansea, Wales, falling into the Llansamlet (electoral ward), Llansamlet ward. The area is centred on the A48 road (named Samlet Road and Clase Road in the area) and the M4 mot ...
, from where the
Nant-y-fendrod Nant-y-fendrod, often known simply as the Fendrod, is a small stream near Swansea in South Wales. It is a tributary of the River Tawe, and has two tributaries, the Nant Bran and the Nant-y-Ffin. It is long, and rises in the flood plain of the R ...
stream could be canalised to reach Fendrod Lake. The lake is to the east of the River Tawe, and from it, some of new canal and an aqueduct over the Tawe would be required to link up with the remains of the original canal. More recently, it has been suggested that a lock at Clydach might drop boats down into the River Tawe, which they would cross on the level to enter the new section of canal. This would link to the Nant-y-fendrod river and Fendrod Lake further down, before re-entering the river. Another lock would enable boats to reach the eastern docks in Swansea, from where a link to the
Tennant Canal The Neath and Tennant Canals are two independent but linked canals in South Wales that are usually regarded as a single canal. The Neath Canal was opened from Glynneath to Melincryddan, to the south of Neath, in 1795 and extended to Giant's Gr ...
would be accessible. Historically, some of the River Tawe were used by ships in the 18th and 19th centuries, serving the industries that were located along its banks. There are still signs of this at Landore, where a stone-built quay built between 1772 and 1774 provided access to deep water enabling coal to reach the Swansea valley prior to the construction of the canal. It is a
scheduled monument In the United Kingdom, a scheduled monument is a nationally important archaeological site or historic building, given protection against unauthorised change. The various pieces of legislation that legally protect heritage assets from damage, visu ...
. A little further downstream is Morfa Quay, dating from the mid-19th century, which was used to offload copper ore from Cornwall destined for the Morfa copper works on the west bank of the river. The river is semi-tidal up to the junction with the Nant-y-fendrod stream, as Swansea barrage is higher than high neap tides, but spring tides overtop the barrage, raising the water level. The river is already used by a trip boat, the ''Copper Jack'', which runs from Swansea Marina upstream almost to the confluence with the Nant-y-fendrod. It is the only large vessel that regularly navigates this section of the river, and does so despite the fact that navigation on this section is not encouraged. It was restricted to working below the rolling bridge at Morfa, as the bridge was deemed to be unsafe, but the bridge was removed for refurbishment around 2020, and when replaced, navigation was again possible above it. ''Copper Jack'' can carry up to 50 passengers, and in the early 2020s, an application for funding for a new pontoon was successful. This would allow passengers to disembark from the boat near the Liberty Stadium and Hafod-Morfa Copperworks. A total of £353,864 of grants was being administered by the Swansea Bay Fisheries Local Action Group. The pontoon was the largest of nine projects, with £215,551 allocated for its construction, and it was completed in October 2023. It is located next to the Hafod Morfa Copperworks site, and the project included constructing habitat for otters on the river. The route for the new canal along the Nant-y-fendrod to Clydach, and the route of a link from the Prince of Wales Dock to a basin at Crymlyn on the Tennant Canal have been safeguarded in the Swansea Local Development Plan. The link from Swansea to Clydach would consist of two sections. The lower section would be a canalisation of the Nant-y-fendrod, passsing through Fendrod or Enterprise Lake, and would be long. It would need four locks to be constructed, and four culverts carrying the Nant-y-fendrod under existing roads would need to be enlarged to accommodate boats. Beyond the upper end of the Nant-y-fendrod, a new section of canal would complete the link to Clydach. This would pass under the M4 motorway through an existing bridge that spans the River Tawe and Garth Road. It would include another seven locks, a fixed bridge, five lift bridges, and an aqueduct to carry the canal across the Tawe similar to the one installed on the Neath and Tennant Canal at Ynysbwllog. This link was costed at £18 million in 2002, and was estimated to cost around £30 million in 2020. The Swansea Canal can accommodate boats which are wide, slightly wider than standard British narrow boats, but since the link would be new, there are advantages in making it wide enough to allow boats such at ''Copper Jack'', which is wide, to travel as far as Clydach. To complete the link from the Tawe to the Neath and Tennant Canal, a new lock into the Prince of Wales Dock would be required, as the ship lock from the river into the dock has been closed. A flood lock would protect a new canal from fluctuations in the water level within the dock, and after passing under a railway line and Fabian Way, would ascend to the level of the Neath and Tennant Canal by a lock. The new channel would be long and there would be two bridges along its length. Estimated cost for the link in 2020 was £6 million, and again, the option to build it wide enough to allow boats such as ''Copper Jack'' to reach Crymlyn would provide increased opportunities for tourism.


Points of interest


See also

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Canals of the United Kingdom The canals of the United Kingdom are a major part of the network of inland waterways in the United Kingdom. They have a History of the British canal system, varied history, from use for irrigation and transport, through becoming the focus of the ...
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History of the British canal system The canal network of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, United Kingdom played a vital role in the Industrial Revolution. The UK was the first country to develop a nationwide canal network which, at its peak, expanded to nearly i ...


Bibliography

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References


External links


Swansea Canal Society registered charity

Canal and River Trust

Swansea Community Boat Trust

www.geograph.co.uk : photos of the Swansea Canal

BBC Wales feature on the canal
{{Coord, 51.73285, N, 3.83129, W, type:landmark_region:GB, display=title 1798 establishments in Wales Buildings and structures in Neath Port Talbot Transport in Swansea History of Swansea Canals in Wales Swansea Valley Canals opened in 1798