The South Col is a sharp-edged
col between
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (; Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation (snow ...
and
Lhotse, the highest and fourth-highest mountains in the world, respectively. The South Col is typically swept by high winds, leaving it free of significant snow accumulation. Since 1950 (when Tibet was closed), most Everest expeditions have left from Nepal and gone via the southeast ridge and the South Col (instead of via the
North Col). When climbers attempt to climb Everest from the southeast ridge in
Nepal
Nepal (; ne, नेपाल ), formerly the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal ( ne,
सङ्घीय लोकतान्त्रिक गणतन्त्र नेपाल ), is a landlocked country in South Asia. It is ma ...
, their final camp (usually Camp IV) is situated on the South Col.

The South Col was first reached on 12 May 1952 by Aubert, Lambert, and Flory of
Edouard Wyss-Dunant's
Swiss Mount Everest Expedition that failed to reach the summit. The following year, when Mount Everest was first climbed,
Wilfrid Noyce
Wilfrid ( – 709 or 710) was an English bishop and saint. Born a Northumbrian noble, he entered religious life as a teenager and studied at Lindisfarne, at Canterbury, in Francia, and at Rome; he returned to Northumbria in about 660, an ...
and the
Sherpa Annullu were the first climbers on the expedition to reach the col. According to
John Hunt, the expedition leader:
Once on the South Col, climbers have entered the
death zone
In mountaineering, the death zone refers to altitudes above a certain point where the pressure of oxygen is insufficient to sustain human life for an extended time span. This point is generally tagged as , less than 356 millibars of atmospheric ...
;
altitude sickness
Altitude sickness, the mildest form being acute mountain sickness (AMS), is the harmful effect of high altitude, caused by rapid exposure to low amounts of oxygen at high elevation. People can respond to high altitude in different ways. Sympt ...
is a significant threat at this elevation and can easily prove fatal. It is also difficult to sleep, and most climbers' digestive systems have significantly slowed or completely stopped. This is because it is more efficient at this altitude for the body to use stored energy sources than to digest new food. Most climbers will begin using supplemental oxygen here and have a maximum of only two or three days for making summit bids. Clear weather and low winds are critical factors in deciding whether to make a summit attempt. If weather does not cooperate within these short few days, climbers are forced to descend, many all the way back down to
Base Camp. Climbers rarely get a second chance to return to the South Col in a specific expedition.
In 2005,
Didier Delsalle of France landed a
Eurocopter AS350
Airbus Helicopters SAS (formerly Eurocopter Group) is the helicopter manufacturing division of Airbus. It is the largest in the industry in terms of revenues and turbine helicopter deliveries. Its head office is located at Marseille Provence Ai ...
B3 helicopter on the South Col.
Two days later he made the first helicopter landing on the summit of Mount Everest, a feat he subsequently repeated.
In May 2019, the highest weather station in the world was installed at Everest, with one location at the South Col, and another on a place higher up on the peak known as "The Balcony" as well as some other stations and locations.
The weather stations are about tall and weigh .
On 21 July 2022, a maximum temperature of was registered at the South Col.
See also
*
Kangshung face
References
External links
Painting of the South Col
Mount Everest
Mountain passes of the Himalayas
Mountain passes of Nepal
Mountain passes of Tibet
Mountain passes of China
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