Shaun Tomson
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Shaun Tomson (born 21 August 1955) is a South African and American professional surfer and former world champion, environmentalist, actor, author, and businessman. He has been listed among the top 10 surfers of the century, and was the 1977 World Surfing Champion.


Early life and education

Tomson was born in
Durban Durban ( ; , from meaning "bay, lagoon") is the third-most populous city in South Africa, after Johannesburg and Cape Town, and the largest city in the Provinces of South Africa, province of KwaZulu-Natal. Situated on the east coast of South ...
, South Africa, and is Jewish. His mother, Marie (1930 - 2021), grew up in
Malta Malta, officially the Republic of Malta, is an island country in Southern Europe located in the Mediterranean Sea, between Sicily and North Africa. It consists of an archipelago south of Italy, east of Tunisia, and north of Libya. The two ...
, where she survived the Siege of Malta, bombing raids by the air and naval forces of
Fascist Italy Fascist Italy () is a term which is used in historiography to describe the Kingdom of Italy between 1922 and 1943, when Benito Mussolini and the National Fascist Party controlled the country, transforming it into a totalitarian dictatorship. Th ...
and
Nazi Germany Nazi Germany, officially known as the German Reich and later the Greater German Reich, was the German Reich, German state between 1933 and 1945, when Adolf Hitler and the Nazi Party controlled the country, transforming it into a Totalit ...
and was evacuated to South Africa. She later
converted to Judaism Conversion to Judaism ( or ) is the process by which non-Jews adopt the Jewish religion and become members of the Jewish ethnoreligious community. It thus resembles both conversion to other religions and naturalization. "Thus, by convertin ...
. His father Ernie (Chony) Tomchinsky (1930 - 1981), was born to Jewish parents, with Shaun's grandfather, Samuel Tomchinsky fleeing
pogroms A pogrom is a violent riot incited with the aim of massacring or expelling an ethnic or religious group, particularly Jews. The term entered the English language from Russian to describe late 19th- and early 20th-century attacks on Jews i ...
in the
Russian Empire The Russian Empire was an empire that spanned most of northern Eurasia from its establishment in November 1721 until the proclamation of the Russian Republic in September 1917. At its height in the late 19th century, it covered about , roughl ...
(present-day)
Latvia Latvia, officially the Republic of Latvia, is a country in the Baltic region of Northern Europe. It is one of the three Baltic states, along with Estonia to the north and Lithuania to the south. It borders Russia to the east and Belarus to t ...
in the early 1900s.THE OLD MAN OF THE SEA : Shaun Tomson Has Left His Homeland and Overcome One Fear of Surfing
''The Los Angeles Times''. 26 June 1985
Ernie was a world class swimmer, whose sporting career was cut short by a
shark attack A shark attack is an attack on a human by a shark. Every year, around 80 unprovoked attacks are reported worldwide. Despite their rarity, many people fear shark attacks after occasional serial attacks, such as the Jersey Shore shark attacks of ...
.Riding Life's Waves with Purpose, Meaning, Joy and Humility
''L'Chaim''. 11 March 2024
Shaun had his ''
Bar Mitzvah A ''bar mitzvah'' () or ''bat mitzvah'' () is a coming of age ritual in Judaism. According to Halakha, Jewish law, before children reach a certain age, the parents are responsible for their child's actions. Once Jewish children reach that age ...
'' at his familial shul, Temple David, a
Reform Reform refers to the improvement or amendment of what is wrong, corrupt, unsatisfactory, etc. The modern usage of the word emerged in the late 18th century and is believed to have originated from Christopher Wyvill's Association movement, which ...
congregation.Wise words to buoy you through life, encouraging a path of purpose, hope and faith
IOL. 5 December 2022
Tomson was educating in Durban, first attending Clifton Preparatory and then completing his high school education and matric at Carmel College, a Jewish High School. He later enrolled at
University of Natal The University of Natal was a university in the former South African province Natal which later became KwaZulu-Natal. The University of Natal no longer exists as a distinct legal entity, as it was incorporated into the University of KwaZulu- ...
, where he received a
Bachelor of Commerce A Bachelor of Commerce (BCom or B Com) is an undergraduate degree in commerce, accounting, mathematics, economics, and management-related subjects. The degree is mainly offered in Commonwealth nations. Structure Bachelor of Commerce The Bac ...
degree majoring in Business Finance. He graduated from
Northeastern University Northeastern University (NU or NEU) is a private university, private research university with its main campus in Boston, Massachusetts, United States. It was founded by the Boston Young Men's Christian Association in 1898 as an all-male instit ...
with a Master of Science in Leadership with a focus on social change. He learned to surf in the beachbreaks in and around Durban under the watchful eye of his father Ernie, and alongside older cousin Michael Tomson and brother Paul Tomson. As a Jewish athlete, he was inducted into the
International Jewish Sports Hall of Fame The International Jewish Sports Hall of Fame (IJSHOF) () is the international hall of fame for Jewish athletes and special contributors to the world of sport. The purpose of the IJSHOF is to honor Jewish individuals, worldwide, who have accompli ...
in 1995.


Career

Tomson went on to dominate amateur surfing competition in South Africa and began venturing over to
Hawaii Hawaii ( ; ) is an island U.S. state, state of the United States, in the Pacific Ocean about southwest of the U.S. mainland. One of the two Non-contiguous United States, non-contiguous U.S. states (along with Alaska), it is the only sta ...
in the late 1960s, courtesy of a ''bar mitzvah'' present from his father. It was on one of these trips that an awestruck 14-year-old Tomson witnessed first hand the so-called "Biggest Wave Ever Ridden" by Californian
Greg Noll Greg Noll (' Lawhead; February 11, 1937 – June 28, 2021) was an American pioneer of big wave surfing and a prominent longboard shaper. Nicknamed "Da Bull" by Phil Edwards in reference to his physique and way of charging down the face of a w ...
at Mākaha in 1969. Hawaii's surf proved to be a daunting challenge for Tomson, but he continued to mature and train in South Africa's hollow waves, such as Cave Rock, the
Bay of Plenty The Bay of Plenty () is a large bight (geography), bight along the northern coast of New Zealand's North Island. It stretches from the Coromandel Peninsula in the west to Cape Runaway in the east. Called ''Te Moana-a-Toitehuatahi'' (the Ocean ...
, and
Jeffrey's Bay Jeffreys Bay (, nicknamed J-bay) is a town of 27,107 inhabitants as of the 2011 census in the Eastern Cape province of South Africa. It is the seat of the Kouga municipality and is famous amongst surfers as a surf capital due to the right-han ...
. Tomson won 19 major professional surf events, has been listed as one of the 25 most influential surfers of the century and as one of the 10 greatest surfers of all time. During his career he was both the youngest and oldest surfer to win a pro event, and is considered to be one of the architects of professional surfing.


Surfing and the Free Ride generation

In 1975, Tomson was an integral part of the "Free Ride" generation. Along with Australians
Wayne Bartholomew Wayne "Rabbit" Bartholomew (born; 30 November 1954) is an Australian world champion surfer, surf sports innovator, community advocate and politician. Bartholomew is the former CEO and president of the Association of Surfing Professionals an ...
, Mark Richards, Ian Cairns, Peter Townend, and Mark Warren, they rode the infamous waves along Oahu's legendary North Shore with a style, aggression, and raw courage unseen prior to their arrival. Collectively, these surfers changed the face of surfing and were the first to really apply themselves as serious professional surfers. With his good looks, eloquence, and undeniable athleticism, Tomson served by default as the face and voice of this movement and he is still viewed as the prototype blueprint for today's pro surfer, with legions of fans throughout the world. Tomson won the highly coveted International Professional Surfers World Championship in 1977. On a performance level, Tomson completely changed the way the tube section of the wave was ridden, using a unique style of pumping and weaving through and around collapsing sections of the barrel. Even today, his electrifying performances at Off the Wall and Backdoor Pipeline stand the test of time. A memorable quote of his from the period was, "Time is expanded inside the tube." A very underrated aspect of Tomson's inventiveness was his in the tube punch throughs where he escaped unscathed from hideous closeout sections over a shallow reef.


Accolades

In 2014 Tomson was inducted into the
Southern California Jewish Sports Hall of Fame The Southern California Jewish Sports Hall of Fame, in Beverly Hills, California, is a hall of fame dedicated to honoring American Jews, American Jewish athletes, other sports personalities, and teams from Southern California who have distingui ...
. He has also been inducted into the Huntington Beach Surfing Walk of Fame (1997), the
International Jewish Sports Hall of Fame The International Jewish Sports Hall of Fame (IJSHOF) () is the international hall of fame for Jewish athletes and special contributors to the world of sport. The purpose of the IJSHOF is to honor Jewish individuals, worldwide, who have accompli ...
(1998), the South African Sports Hall of Fame (1977), and received the SIMA Environmentalist of the Year Award (2002) and the Surfrider Lifetime Achievement Award (2009).


Other ventures

Tomson founded, managed, and sold two multi-million market-leading clothing brands, with the Surf focused Instinct in the 1980s, and Solitude in the 1990s. He is currently an inspirational speaker for some of the world's largest companies and talks about the influence of positive values on success in life and business based on his own experiences of overcoming seemingly insurmountable challenges, in and out of the surf. An attitude of Commitment and Positivity is the basis for Tomson's empowering business philosophy based on his "Surfer's Code – 12 Simple Lessons for Riding through Life". He has spoken internationally and inspired and touched the hearts of audiences as large as 3,000 people, has shared the stage with well-known personalities, including Sir
Richard Branson Sir Richard Charles Nicholas Branson (born 18 July 1950) is an English business magnate who co-founded the Virgin Group in 1970, and controlled 5 companies remaining of once more than 400. Branson expressed his desire to become an entrepreneu ...
and
Malcolm Gladwell Malcolm Timothy Gladwell (born 3 September 1963) is a Canadian journalist, author, and public speaker. He has been a staff writer for ''The New Yorker'' since 1996. He has published eight books. He is also the host of the podcast ''Revisionist ...
, and inspired corporations such as General Motors, Cisco, Price Waterhouse, Toys R Us, Sasol, Disney, Google, Primedia, MTN and Adcock Ingram. In October 2024, he announced that he was relaunching his brand, Instinct. Tomson explained: “In our divided and fractured world, Instinct what I'm intending to inspire, and unite people through the values in the Surfer's Code.” Tomson is also the author of the best-selling ''Surfer's Code – 12 Simple lessons for riding through life'' and the #1 Amazon teen bestseller: The Code - The Power of ''I Will''. He also authored ''Bustin' Down the Door – Revolution of '75'', a companion to the film of the same name and ''Krazy Kreatures – Under my Surfboard!'', a collection of illustrated rhymes for children. In 2022, he released The Surfer and the Sage with Familius Publishing. Tomson has released 3 iPhone/iPad applications – ''Surfboards, a reference guide for surfboards''; ''Surfer – a digital form of Surfer's Code'' and ''Surf Creatures, animated rhymes for children''.


Personal life


Family

In 1980, Tomson relocated to
California California () is a U.S. state, state in the Western United States that lies on the West Coast of the United States, Pacific Coast. It borders Oregon to the north, Nevada and Arizona to the east, and shares Mexico–United States border, an ...
. He was joined by his mother Marie, sister Tracy and brother, Paul. In 1983, Tomson began dating Carla Winnick. The pair married four years later at his familial shul, Temple David in
Durban Durban ( ; , from meaning "bay, lagoon") is the third-most populous city in South Africa, after Johannesburg and Cape Town, and the largest city in the Provinces of South Africa, province of KwaZulu-Natal. Situated on the east coast of South ...
. The Tomsons' son Mathew died at 15 years of age on 24 April 2006 in Durban, South Africa, from an accidental death caused by playing the "
choking game The choking game, or fainting game, also sometimes referred to as Space Monkeys, is the act of intentionally cutting off oxygen to the brain with the goal of inducing temporary Syncope (medicine), loss of consciousness and euphoria. A related inte ...
."In his autobiography, published in 2022, Tomson wrote about reconnecting with his Jewish faith in the wake of the tragedy of his son's death and returning to Temple David. Tomson lives with his wife and adopted son, Luke in
Montecito, California Montecito (archaic use of Spanish for woodland or countryside) is an unincorporated town in Santa Barbara County, California, United States.McCormack, Don (1999). ''McCormack's Guides Santa Barbara and Ventura 2000''. Mccormacks Guides. p. 58. ...
, in
Santa Barbara, California Santa Barbara (, meaning ) is a coastal city in Santa Barbara County, California, of which it is also the county seat. Situated on a south-facing section of coastline, the longest such section on the West Coast of the United States excepting A ...
, and surfs daily.


Identity

In 1985 he spoke to ''
The Los Angeles Times The ''Los Angeles Times'' is an American daily newspaper that began publishing in Los Angeles, California, in 1881. Based in the Greater Los Angeles city of El Segundo since 2018, it is the sixth-largest newspaper in the U.S. and the larges ...
'' about his South African identity: "I didn't leave South Africa for moral reasons. California was the place for me in terms of my future. I know there are a lot of things inherently wrong in South Africa. But I've never denied I'm from there." He continued: "I feel South Africa has potential to be a great country. But there has to be a form of power share. The black man has no say in the government at the moment, and you can't get away with it, it's an unfair situation. I've come out publicly that I do not like the policy of
apartheid Apartheid ( , especially South African English:  , ; , ) was a system of institutionalised racial segregation that existed in South Africa and South West Africa (now Namibia) from 1948 to the early 1990s. It was characterised by an ...
and am opposed to the kind of system of government in South Africa. But I'm also opposed to violent change.” Amid the
7 October Hamas-led attack on Israel On October 7, 2023, Hamas and several other Palestinian militant groups launched coordinated armed incursions from the Gaza Strip into the Gaza envelope of southern Israel, the first invasion of Israeli territory since the 1948 Arab–Israeli ...
and rising levels of
antisemitism Antisemitism or Jew-hatred is hostility to, prejudice towards, or discrimination against Jews. A person who harbours it is called an antisemite. Whether antisemitism is considered a form of racism depends on the school of thought. Antisemi ...
, Tomson has spoken about his Jewish identity: “So my relationship with my religion and Israel has changed…I am now no longer Jewish. I am a Jew...” Tomson travelled to
Israel Israel, officially the State of Israel, is a country in West Asia. It Borders of Israel, shares borders with Lebanon to the north, Syria to the north-east, Jordan to the east, Egypt to the south-west, and the Mediterranean Sea to the west. Isr ...
at the invitation of Omer Levy of Shabbat Surf Club, where he participated in a memorial paddle for the twenty-six surfers killed in the terrorist attacks.


Environmentalism

Tomson is a board member and ambassador for
Surfrider Foundation The Surfrider Foundation is a U.S. 501(c)(3) non-profit environmental organization that works to protect and preserve the world's oceans, waves and beaches. It focuses on plastic reduction, water quality, beach access, beach and surf spot preser ...
, the world's largest environmental group dedicated to protecting the world's oceans, waves, and beaches. In 1984 he was the first professional surfer to become a member of the foundation and was chairman of the advisory board. In 2002 he received the Surf Industry Manufacturer Association Environmentalist of the Year Award for his environmental efforts. Tomson also co-founded and remains affiliated with the environmentally active celebrity surfer organization Project Save Our Surf.


Filmography

Tomson has appeared in many films, including ''Free Ride'', ''Fantasea'', ''Many Classic Moments'', and '' In God's Hands''. Tomson also co-produced an award-winning full-length feature film about the benchmark mid-1970s surfing era called ''
Bustin' Down the Door ''Bustin' Down The Door'' is a 2008 documentary film chronicling the rise of professional surfing in the early 1970s. The film follows a group of young surfers from Australia and South Africa, including Shaun Tomson, Wayne Bartholomew, Wayne 'Rabb ...
'', which premiered in early 2008. He also wrote and narrated a documentary about
Jeffreys Bay Jeffreys Bay (, nicknamed J-bay) is a town of 27,107 inhabitants as of the 2011 census in the Eastern Cape province of South Africa. It is the seat of the Kouga municipality and is famous amongst surfers as a surf capital due to the right-han ...
called ''A Pure Line''.


See also

* List of Jewish surfers


References


External links

* * *
Surfline.com biography



Surfrider Foundation

Tomson on Channel24

learnfrommylife feature




{{DEFAULTSORT:Tomson, Shaun 1955 births International Jewish Sports Hall of Fame inductees Living people Sportspeople from Durban South African surfers South African writers White South African people World Surf League surfers South African Jews South African people of Russian-Jewish descent South African people of Latvian-Jewish descent Jewish South African sportspeople Jewish American sportspeople University of Natal alumni Northeastern University alumni People from Montecito, California Sportspeople from Santa Barbara County, California