Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner
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The Rolex Submariner is a line of sports
watches A watch is a Clock, timepiece carried or worn by a person. It is designed to maintain a consistent movement despite the motions caused by the person's activities. A wristwatch is worn around the wrist, attached by a watch strap or another typ ...
designed for
diving Diving most often refers to: * Diving (sport), the sport of jumping into deep water * Underwater diving, human activity underwater for recreational or occupational purposes Diving or Dive may also refer to: Sports * Dive (American football), ...
and manufactured by
Rolex Rolex () is a Swiss watch brand and manufacturer based in Geneva, Switzerland. Founded in 1905 as ''Wilsdorf and Davis'' by German businessman Hans Wilsdorf and his eventual brother-in-law Alfred Davis in London, the company registered ''Rolex ...
, resistant to water and corrosion. The first Submariner was introduced to the public in 1954 at the Basel Watch Fair. It was the first watch to be waterproof up to . The Rolex Submariner is considered "a classic among wristwatches",GQ magazine
GQ: How to Buy a Watch The Classics Buy any one of these signature watches and you can't go wrong 1. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner ''Unveiled in 1953, the Submariner was the first watch water-resistant to 330 feet. Its "combination of unparalleled elegance and spy-friendly versatility" appealed to Sean Connery's James Bond and none other than Che Guevara.''
manufactured by one of the world's most widely recognized luxury brands.
Quote: ''That explains why big recognizable brands like Cartier, Patek Philippe and Rolex rule. They can be thought of, in fact, as portable status symbols, owing to their tradition of quality workmanship.''

quote: ''...became as much a status symbol as a silver Porsche or a gold-faced Rolex watch.''
Guardian UK: What is it with men and their watches?
quote: ''It used to be so simple – rich men adorned themselves with that ultimate macho status symbol the Rolex, while the less well-to-do strapped on Timex or Casio.''
Due to its huge popularity, there are many homage watches by well-established watchmakers, as well as illegal counterfeits. The Rolex Submariner is part of Rolex's Professional line. Today, the Submariner and Submariner Date models are equipped with Rolex Calibres 3230 and 3235, respectively, and feature luminescent hour markers, a unidirectional rotatable bezel with Cerachrom ceramic insert, and a solid-link Oyster bracelet. The models underwater diving depth rating is .


Early models

The Submariner model went into production in 1953 and was showcased at the Basel Watch Fair in 1954. This first Submariner's assigned case reference number was either 6204 or 6205. It is unclear which model came first; in any event, the two watches are nearly identical. Neither the distinctive "cathedral" or "Mercedes" hands are now so strongly associated with the Submariner line. Rather, both of these early submariners have straight "pencil" style hands. Both the 6204 and 6205 were fitted with the A260 movement. Neither model displayed a depth rating on the dial. The 6204 was originally rated to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet), but by 1954, Rolex certified the watch as waterproof to 200 meters (660 feet) in the accompanying catalog. The 6205 was depth rated to 100 meters (330 feet). Some 6204 models have the Submariner logo printed below the center pinion, while others have the logo blacked out. Few, if any, of the 6205 watches bear the name "Submariner" on the dial, a major distinction of modern Submariners. It is believed that there were unexpected trademark issues connected with the name "Submariner" at the time the 6204 and 6205 were released, accounting for the inconsistent use of the Submariner mark on these early Submariners. Trademark irregularities notwithstanding, both the 6204 and 6205 are designated Submariner models in Rolex product literature. In 1954, Rolex also produced a small number of ref. 6200 Submariners. This was the first Submariner (although not the first Rolex) to make use of the Mercedes hand set, a feature of all subsequent Submariners. The 6200 also featured an oversized winding crown compared to the 6204 and 6205 models. Within a few years, Rolex revised its Submariner line, producing the 6536 (small crown) and 6538 (oversized crown) models. These watches had "improved" movements (the cal. 1030), including a chronometer version in some 6536 models (designated 6536/1), the now-familiar Mercedes hands, and the Submariner logo and depth rating printed on the dial. By the early 1960s, these models had given way to the 5508 (small crown) and 5510 (large crown) models. All of these early Submariners used either gilt (6200, 6204, 6205) or gilt/silver gilt (6536, 6538) printing on glossy black dials.
Radium Radium is a chemical element; it has chemical symbol, symbol Ra and atomic number 88. It is the sixth element in alkaline earth metal, group 2 of the periodic table, also known as the alkaline earth metals. Pure radium is silvery-white, ...
paint was used for the luminous indices. The next wave of Submariners, the 5512 (chronometer version) and 5513 (non-chronometer), marked a significant change in the appearance of the popular Rolex design. "Shoulders" were added to the case's crown side to protect the winding/setting mechanism. In early watches—until 1964, these shoulders were pyramid-shaped and ended in points. Later watches were manufactured with rounded shoulders. The 5512 and 5513 were both fitted with the oversized crown, which thereafter became a standard feature of the Submariner line. In the early 1960s, Rolex discontinued the use of radium paint for the luminous indices, switching to safer
tritium Tritium () or hydrogen-3 (symbol T or H) is a rare and radioactive isotope of hydrogen with a half-life of ~12.33 years. The tritium nucleus (t, sometimes called a ''triton'') contains one proton and two neutrons, whereas the nucleus of the ...
-infused paint. In 1965–1966, Rolex discontinued using gilt/silver gilt dials on the Submariner watches, switching to white printing. A final important change came with the introduction of the 1680 model in the late 1960s: the 1680 was the first Submariner to be equipped with a date function, marking the completion of the transition of the Submariner line from specialist no-frills utilitarian tool watch for
scuba divers Scuba diving is a mode of underwater diving whereby divers use breathing equipment that is completely independent of a surface breathing gas supply, and therefore has a limited but variable endurance. The word ''scuba'' is an acronym for ...
to mass market fashion accessory. While many professional and military divers used—and continue to use—Submariners in the most demanding underwater environments, by the late 1960s, the watch had undeniably become a mass-market product as well.


Later models

Throughout the next 40 years, the Submariner was updated with improved water resistance, new movements, and numerous small cosmetic changes. In 2003, Rolex celebrated the Submariner's 50th anniversary by launching the Rolex Submariner-Date anniversary edition (16610 LV), with distinguishing features such as the green bezel and Maxi dial; its production ended in 2010 with the final watches being issued with the new "random" serial number. A new Submariner-Date, model 116613 (not to be confused with model 16613), based on the "Super Case" used in the GMT Master II, was presented at the 2008 Basel show. It featured heavier lugs and crown guards, a Cerachrom ceramic bezel, and a quick-adjust function "Glidelock" clasp. The first Submariner-Date models offered were a yellow gold with a blue face and bezel and a new white gold with a blue face and bezel. The stainless steel case model was presented at the 2010 Basel show. Its reference is 116610. An anti-reflective coating was applied to the inner side of the sapphire crystal. The steel 14060M did not have these modifications. At the 2012 BaselWorld watch show, an updated steel Submariner ref 114060 was introduced. It replaced the 14060M, with the newer "Super Case" with wider lug end shoulders, enlarged crown guards, enlarged "Chromalight" hour markers and broader hands for increased visibility, ceramic bezel inlay, blue Parachrom hairspring and bracelet with solely solid links featuring ceramic axle sleeves to prevent premature wear or bracelet stretch and a "Glidelock" extension system allowing for up to of total adjustment in increments without the use of any tools. The Rolex Submariner watch case has a diameter of and a thickness of (crystal thickness ), and the case and bracelet weigh . At the year 2020 Rolex retired the chunky looking "Super Case" by introducing a slightly enlarged watch case styled more to pre-"Super Case" slimmer looking Submariner models which has a depending on the source a diameter, a thickness of and an anti-reflective coating applied on the inner side of the crystal. Like the watch case, the lug width has also been enlarged to . The No-Date model features a caliber 3230 movement and the Date model features a caliber 3235 movement. Both are
COSC The Contrôle officiel suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, is the institute responsible for certifying the accuracy and precision of Swiss watches. Background Founded in its current form in 1973, t ...
certified.


Usage of special version

From 1970 onwards, the French diving company COMEX received a special version of Rolex Submariner 5513 featuring a
helium release valve A helium release valve, helium escape valve or gas escape valve is a feature found on some diving watches intended for saturation diving using helium based breathing gas. Gas ingress problem When saturation divers operate at great depths, they li ...
for their saturation divers. This version of the Submariner was based on the Sea Dweller designed for the needs of professional divers working at great depths and not the other way around as often claimed. In 1974, the first double-signed dials featuring the Comex logo were introduced followed by changing the reference number to 5514, thus creating an exclusive reference for Comex. These watches were never available to the public.


Production and market value

Rolex has disclosed that approximately 4 million Submariner watches were produced between 1953 and 2020. Based on current market prices, this equates to an estimated value of $46 billion for this period. Including production from 2020 onwards, Submariner watches' total value could exceed $50 billion. While the luxury watch market has experienced significant growth and volatility, precise figures for annual Rolex production have yet to be discovered. However, it is generally estimated that Rolex produces around one million timepieces annually.


Current models

All models feature 300-meter (1000 feet) water resistance.


Discontinued models


Submariner spinoff

The Rolex Sea-Dweller, developed in 1967 but introduced to the general public in 1971, is a heavier-duty steel version of the Submariner, with a thicker case and crystal, as well as a date feature, minus the date magnifying lens ("cyclops"). The Sea-Dweller incorporates a helium escape valve for use when decompressing and helium is in the gas mixture of a pressurized habitat; this model (ref 16600) has a guaranteed waterproof depth of . The Sea-Dweller was superseded by the DeepSea Sea-Dweller in late 2008, with the last 16600 Sea-Dwellers produced running into the V-series (late 2008). The DeepSea features a 44 mm case that guarantees a depth of (ref. 116660). In late 2022 Rolex introduced the Deepsea Challenge, a commercial full ocean depth capable watch featuring a 50 mm titanium alloy case. The Deepsea Challenge model does not feature a date complication unlike the Deepsea and Sea-Dweller models, which were designed for
saturation diving Saturation diving is an ambient pressure diving technique which allows a diver to remain at working depth for extended periods during which the body tissues become solubility, saturated with metabolically inert gas from the breathing gas mixture ...
where people have to spend multiple days in pressurized environments. The DeepSea Challenge features a 50 mm case that guarantees a depth of ..


Model information and characteristics

* Waterproof to a maximum depth of 300 metres (1000 ft). Earlier models were thinner and resistant to . * Triplock system waterproof crown, featuring a triple gasket system, identified by three dots on the crown. Screws down tightly onto the case tube and against the Oyster case to provide extra waterproof protection for underwater diving. * Case made from solid block of 904L stainless steel since the 1980s, a corrosion-resistant alloy, or gold. The golds (white or yellow) are made in Rolex's foundry. * Unidirectional bezel that enables a diver to memorize and follow immersion time. As the bezel only rotates counterclockwise, the dive time can only become "longer" in case of accidental bezel movement, averting the danger of spending too much time underwater. * Perpetual rotor in the self-winding wristwatch mechanism, allowing the watch to run continuously, as every slight movement of the wrist winds the movement. The energy generated is stored in the mainspring, allowing the watch to continue to function with no movement for several days. Each movement is a Swiss chronometer officially certified by the
COSC The Contrôle officiel suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, is the institute responsible for certifying the accuracy and precision of Swiss watches. Background Founded in its current form in 1973, t ...
. * Rolex calendar mechanism that advances to the next date at midnight in a single short rotation. * Removable hologram on the caseback, featured until 2007. * Recent models of the Submariner and Submariner-Date (late 2008) feature a distinctive "ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX" and serial number engraved on the "inner bezel", also known as the "Rehaut" (French) or "
Flange A flange is a protruded ridge, lip or rim (wheel), rim, either external or internal, that serves to increase shear strength, strength (as the flange of a steel beam (structure), beam such as an I-beam or a T-beam); for easy attachment/transfer o ...
" (English). It also contains a minuscule laser-etched Rolex Crown at the bottom of the crystal in line with 6 o'clock mark.


James Bond

The Rolex Submariner has appeared in a number of
James Bond The ''James Bond'' franchise focuses on James Bond (literary character), the titular character, a fictional Secret Intelligence Service, British Secret Service agent created in 1953 by writer Ian Fleming, who featured him in twelve novels ...
movies A film, also known as a movie or motion picture, is a work of visual art that simulates experiences and otherwise communicates ideas, stories, perceptions, emotions, or atmosphere through the use of moving images that are generally, since ...
.
Sean Connery Sir Thomas Sean Connery (25 August 1930 – 31 October 2020) was a Scottish actor. He was the first actor to Portrayal of James Bond in film, portray the fictional British secret agent James Bond (literary character), James Bond in motion pic ...
wore a reference 6538 in his first four movies. In '' Dr. No'' and '' From Russia with Love'', the watch was worn with a leather strap. In '' Goldfinger'' and '' Thunderball'' the strap had been swapped for an undersized NATO type nylon
band Band or BAND may refer to: Places *Bánd, a village in Hungary * Band, Iran, a village in Urmia County, West Azerbaijan Province, Iran * Band, Mureș, a commune in Romania * Band-e Majid Khan, a village in Bukan County, West Azerbaijan Province, ...
. (The Ministry of Defence "G10" strap was not commissioned until 1973, and then only in admiralty grey without stripes.) George Lazenby wore a reference 5513 with an oyster bracelet in parts of '' On Her Majesty's Secret Service'';
Roger Moore Sir Roger George Moore (14 October 192723 May 2017) was an English actor. He was the actor to portray Ian Fleming's fictional secret agent James Bond (literary character), James Bond in the Eon Productions/MGM Studios film series, playing the ...
wore reference 5513 with a 7206 riveted bracelet in his first two Bond movies, '' Live and Let Die'' and '' The Man with the Golden Gun''.
Timothy Dalton Timothy Leonard Dalton Leggett (; born 21 March 1946) is a British actor. He gained international prominence as the fourth actor to portray fictional secret agent James Bond in the Eon Productions film series, starring in '' The Living Dayli ...
is so far the last Bond actor to wear a Rolex in the Bond franchise; he wore a Submariner with a date window in his last Bond film, ''
Licence to Kill ''Licence to Kill'' is a 1989 spy film, the sixteenth in the List of James Bond films, ''James Bond'' series produced by Eon Productions, and the second and final film to star Timothy Dalton as the MI6 agent James Bond (literary character), J ...
''. The watch may have been a 16800 or 168000, as the movie was shot in the summer of 1988. From ''
GoldenEye ''GoldenEye'' is a 1995 spy film, the seventeenth in the List of James Bond films, ''James Bond'' series produced by Eon Productions, and the first to star Pierce Brosnan as the fictional Secret Intelligence Service, MI6 agent James Bond (lit ...
'' onwards, James Bond wears different versions of the
Omega Seamaster The Omega Seamaster is a line of automatic winding mechanical diving watches from Omega with a history that can be traced back to the original water-resistant dress-style watch released in 1948. The Seamaster collection is perhaps best known to ...
.


See also

*
Dive watch A diving watch, also commonly referred to as a diver's or dive watch, is a watch designed for underwater diving that features, as a minimum, a water resistance greater than , the equivalent of . The typical diver's watch will have a water resis ...
*
Omega Seamaster The Omega Seamaster is a line of automatic winding mechanical diving watches from Omega with a history that can be traced back to the original water-resistant dress-style watch released in 1948. The Seamaster collection is perhaps best known to ...
*
Rolex Daytona The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is a mechanical chronograph wristwatch designed to meet the needs of racing drivers by measuring elapsed time and calculating average speed. Its name refers to Daytona Beach, Florida, where racing flourished in the ea ...
*
Rolex Day-Date The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date is a COSC certified, Automatic watch, self-winding Chronometer watch, chronometer manufactured by Rolex. Initially presented in 1956, the Day-Date was the first watch to display the date as well as the day, s ...
* Rolex Datejust *
Rolex GMT Master II The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date GMT Master is part of the Rolex Professional Watch Collection. Designed in collaboration with the now defunct U.S.-based Pan Am airline for use by their pilots and navigators, it was launched in 1954. History The ...
* Rolex Milgauss * Rolex Sea-Dweller * Rolex Yacht-Master *
Rolex Explorer II Rolex Explorer II is a self-winding Swiss made wristwatch introduced by Rolex in 1971.Rolex:Submariner

Rolex Submariner Ref. 114060 Review

Rolex Submariner

Discover Iconic Pre-Owned Luxury Watches: Rolex, Omega, Cartier & More
– Vintage Vault Trader blog about luxury watches, including Rolex, Omega, and Cartier. Rolex watches Products introduced in 1953