Plumping, also referred to as “enhancing” or “injecting,” is the process by which some
poultry
Poultry () are domesticated birds kept by humans for the purpose of harvesting animal products such as meat, Eggs as food, eggs or feathers. The practice of animal husbandry, raising poultry is known as poultry farming. These birds are most typ ...
companies inject raw
chicken meat
The chicken (''Gallus gallus domesticus'') is a domesticated subspecies of the red junglefowl (''Gallus gallus''), originally native to Southeast Asia. It was first domesticated around 8,000 years ago and is now one of the most common and w ...
with saltwater,
chicken stock, seaweed extract, or some combination thereof. The practice is most commonly used for fresh chicken and is also used in frozen poultry products,
although other meats may also be plumped.
Poultry producers have injected chicken (and other meat) with saltwater solutions since the 1970s,
claiming it makes for tastier, juicier meat. According to Kenneth McMillin, Professor of Meat Science at the
Louisiana State University Agricultural Center in
Baton Rouge
Baton Rouge ( ; , ) is the List of capitals in the United States, capital city of the U.S. state of Louisiana. It had a population of 227,470 at the 2020 United States census, making it List of municipalities in Louisiana, Louisiana's second-m ...
, processors use multiple-needle injectors or vacuum-tumblers, that force the
sodium
Sodium is a chemical element; it has Symbol (chemistry), symbol Na (from Neo-Latin ) and atomic number 11. It is a soft, silvery-white, highly reactive metal. Sodium is an alkali metal, being in group 1 element, group 1 of the peri ...
solution into the muscle.
Binding agents in the solution prevent the added salt and water from leaching out of the meat during transport, in grocery stores and during
cooking
Cooking, also known as cookery or professionally as the culinary arts, is the art, science and craft of using heat to make food more palatable, digestible, nutritious, or Food safety, safe. Cooking techniques and ingredients vary widely, from ...
.
Controversy
Cost to consumers
Plumped chicken commonly contains 15% of its total weight in saltwater, but in some cases can contain as much as 30%.
Since the price of chicken is based on weight, opponents of the practice estimate that shoppers could be paying up to an additional $1.70 per package for added saltwater,
with the total annual cost to U.S. families estimated to be $2 billion in added weight charges.
Health effects
A serving of plumped chicken can contain between 200 mg and 500 mg of sodium per serving,
which is more than 25% of the USDA's recommended daily sodium intake.
Non-plumped chicken generally contains 45 to 70 mg per serving.
In January 2010, the American Heart Association released new guidelines calling for all Americans to reduce their sodium intake to 1,500 mg (equivalent to 3.8 g of salt) from 2,300 mg. Previously, 1,500 mg was the recommended limit for higher-risk individuals only.
In a current study, research has shown that reducing salt intake by three grams a day would decrease new cases of heart disease by one-third each year. This would reduce heart disease- related deaths by an estimated 100,000 annually,
and save up to an estimated $24 billion in annual health costs, according to a study published by the New England Journal of Medicine.
Dr. Bibbins-Domingo of UCSF, who led the study for the New England Journal of Medicine says, “Reducing salt intake could be as beneficial as quitting smoking, weight loss, and using cholesterol medication.”
Supporters of plumping cite that chicken with as much as 330 mg or less of sodium per serving is eligible for the
American Heart Association
The American Heart Association (AHA) is a nonprofit organization in the United States that funds cardiovascular medical research, educates consumers on healthy living and fosters appropriate Heart, cardiac care in an effort to reduce disability ...
’s seal of approval.
However, the
National Academy of Sciences
The National Academy of Sciences (NAS) is a United States nonprofit, NGO, non-governmental organization. NAS is part of the National Academies of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine, along with the National Academy of Engineering (NAE) and the ...
Institute of Medicine
The National Academy of Medicine (NAM), known as the Institute of Medicine (IoM) until 2015, is an American nonprofit, non-governmental organization. The National Academy of Medicine is a part of the National Academies of Sciences, Engineerin ...
recently conducted hearings exploring health risks associated with high salt intake, including testimony that addressed the practice of plumping. Health experts have weighed in on the issue. In a June 22, 2009 ''
Los Angeles Times
The ''Los Angeles Times'' is an American Newspaper#Daily, daily newspaper that began publishing in Los Angeles, California, in 1881. Based in the Greater Los Angeles city of El Segundo, California, El Segundo since 2018, it is the List of new ...
'' article,
Marion Nestle
Marion Nestle (born 1936) is an American molecular biologist, nutritionist, and public health advocate. She is the Paulette Goddard Professor of Nutrition, Food Studies, and Public Health Emerita at New York University. Her research examines ...
, Professor of Nutrition, Food Studies and Public Health at
New York University
New York University (NYU) is a private university, private research university in New York City, New York, United States. Chartered in 1831 by the New York State Legislature, NYU was founded in 1832 by Albert Gallatin as a Nondenominational ...
, noted that “the practice of saltwater plumping
ddsunnecessary salt to people’s diets,
ndit also increases the water weight of chicken.”
Labeling
Poultry producers, consumer advocacy groups and government officials are debating how plumped chicken products should be labeled. Under current USDA regulations, plumped chicken may still carry an “All-Natural” or “100% Natural” label.
Plumped chicken is commonly labeled as natural and “enhanced with up to 15% chicken broth.”
Critics of the practice argue that 70% of consumers think chicken labeled “natural” should not contain saltwater.
Proponents of plumping say that their packaging already states that the chicken has been injected and that the enhanced chicken is sold to meet consumer demand.
In
South Africa
South Africa, officially the Republic of South Africa (RSA), is the Southern Africa, southernmost country in Africa. Its Provinces of South Africa, nine provinces are bounded to the south by of coastline that stretches along the Atlantic O ...
, controversy over individually quick-frozen chicken pieces being injected with up to 50% brine content, has resulted in government regulation requiring IQF chicken to be labeled with brine content. IQF chicken is a cheap staple food and manufacturers were accused of misleading the poor.
Media coverage
A number of U.S. poultry producers have addressed the practice in advertising campaigns. In March 2009, West Coast poultry producer
Foster Farms and their advertising agency
Goodby, Silverstein & Partners
Goodby, Silverstein & Partners (also known as GSP) is an advertising agency based in San Francisco.
History
The agency was founded on April 15, 1983 as Goodby, Berlin & Silverstein by Jeff Goodby, Andy Berlin and Rich Silverstein. Andy Berlin l ...
launched a campaign centered on "Say No To Plumping." TV commercials in English and Spanish featured the long-running Foster “Imposters” discussing the effects of plumping. The "Say No To Plumping" campaign won the 2010 Gold
Effie Award in advertising.
Sanderson Farms previously ran an advertising campaign on TV and outdoor billboards drawing consumer attention to saltwater injected chicken.
Plumping gained attention from the
Wall Street Journal
''The Wall Street Journal'' (''WSJ''), also referred to simply as the ''Journal,'' is an American newspaper based in New York City. The newspaper provides extensive coverage of news, especially business and finance. It operates on a subscriptio ...
in early May 2009.
The issue has also been covered in the
Los Angeles Times
The ''Los Angeles Times'' is an American Newspaper#Daily, daily newspaper that began publishing in Los Angeles, California, in 1881. Based in the Greater Los Angeles city of El Segundo, California, El Segundo since 2018, it is the List of new ...
, the
Associated Press
The Associated Press (AP) is an American not-for-profit organization, not-for-profit news agency headquartered in New York City.
Founded in 1846, it operates as a cooperative, unincorporated association, and produces news reports that are dist ...
, the
Baton Rouge Advocate and the
Deseret News
The ''Deseret News'' () is a multi-platform newspaper based in Salt Lake City, published by Deseret News Publishing Company, a subsidiary of Deseret Management Corporation, which is owned by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS ...
in Salt Lake City, Utah.
References
{{reflist, 2
External links
Associated Press - Chicken producers debate 'natural' label
Poultry products
Consumer fraud