New Guinea

New Guinea (; Hiri Motu: ''Niu Gini''; id, Papua, historically ) is the world's second-largest island, and with an area of , the largest island in the

Southern Hemisphere

. Located in

Oceania

in the southwestern

Pacific Ocean

, it is separated by the wide

Torres Strait

from

Australia

. Numerous smaller islands are located to the west and east. The eastern half of the island is the major land mass of the independent state of

Papua New Guinea

. The western half, known as Western New Guinea, forms a part of

Indonesia

and is organized as the provinces of Papua and West Papua. The largest cities on the island are Jayapura (capital of Papua, Indonesia) and

Port Moresby

(capital of Papua New Guinea).

Names

The island has been known by various names:

The name ''Papua'' was used to refer to parts of the island before contact with the West. Its etymology is unclear; one theory states that it derived from Tidore, the language used by the Sultanate of Tidore, which controlled parts of the island's coastal region. The name appears to come from the words ''papo'' (to unite) and ''ua'' (negation), which means "not united" or, "territory that geographically is far away (and thus not united)".

Anton Ploeg reports that the word ''papua'' is often said to be derived from the Malay word ''papua'' or ''pua-pua'', meaning "frizzly-haired", referring to the very curly hair of the inhabitants of these areas. Another possibility, put forward by Sollewijn Gelpke in 1993, is that it comes from the Biak phrase ''sup i papwa'', which means 'the land below he sunset, and refers to the islands west of the Bird's Head, as far as

Halmahera

. The name ''Papua'' came to be associated with this area, and more especially with Halmahera, which was known to the Portuguese by this name during the era of their colonization in this part of the world.

When Portuguese and Spanish explorers arrived in the island via the

Spice Islands

, they also referred to the island as ''Papua''. However, Westerners, beginning with Spanish explorer Yñigo Ortiz de Retez in 1545, used the name ''New Guinea'', referring to the similarities of the features of the indigenous peoples to those of native Africans of the Guinea region of the continent. The name is one of several toponyms sharing similar etymologies, ultimately meaning "land of the blacks" or similar meanings, in reference to the dark skin of the inhabitants.

The Dutch, who arrived later under Jacob Le Maire and Willem Schouten, called it ''Schouten island''. They later used this name only to refer to islands off the north coast of Papua proper, the Schouten Islands or Biak Island. When the Dutch colonized this island as part of the Dutch East Indies, they called it ''Nieuw Guinea''.

The name ''Irian'' was used in the Indonesian language to refer to the island and Indonesian province, as ''Irian Barat'' (West Irian) Province and later ''Irian Jaya'' Province. The name was promoted in 1945 by Marcus Kaisiepo, brother of the future governor Frans Kaisiepo. It is taken from the Biak language of Biak Island, and means "to rise", or "rising spirit". ''Irian'' is the name used in the Biak language and other languages such as Serui, Merauke and Waropen. The name was used until 2001, when ''Papua'' was again used for the island and the province. The name ''Irian'', which was originally favored by natives, is now considered to be a name imposed by the authority of

Jakarta

.

Geography

New Guinea is an island to the north of the

Australian mainland

, south of the equator. It is isolated by the Arafura Sea to the west, and the

Torres Strait

and

Coral Sea

to the east. Sometimes considered to be the easternmost island of the Indonesian archipelago, it lies north of Australia's Top End, the Gulf of Carpentaria and Cape York Peninsula, and west of the Bismarck Archipelago and the Solomon Islands archipelago.

Politically, the western half of the island comprises two provinces of Indonesia: Papua and West Papua. The eastern half forms the mainland of the country of

Papua New Guinea

.

The shape of New Guinea is often compared to that of a bird-of-paradise (indigenous to the island), and this results in the usual names for the two extremes of the island: the Bird's Head Peninsula in the northwest (''Vogelkop'' in Dutch, ''Kepala Burung'' in Indonesian; also known as the Doberai Peninsula), and the Bird's Tail Peninsula in the southeast (also known as the

Papuan Peninsula

).

A spine of east–west mountains, the New Guinea Highlands, dominates the geography of New Guinea, stretching over across the island, with many mountains over . The western half of the island contains the highest mountains in

Oceania

, with its highest point, Puncak Jaya, reaching an elevation of 4,884 m (16,023 ft). The

tree line

is around elevation, and the tallest peaks contain equatorial

glacier

s—which have been retreating since at least 1936. Various other smaller mountain ranges occur both north and west of the central ranges. Except in high elevations, most areas possess a warm humid climate throughout the year, with some seasonal variation associated with the northeast monsoon season.

Another major habitat feature is the vast southern and northern lowlands. Stretching for hundreds of kilometres, these include lowland rainforests, extensive wetlands, savanna grasslands, and some of the largest expanses of mangrove forest in the world. The southern lowlands are the site of Lorentz National Park, a

UNESCO

World Heritage Site. The northern lowlands are drained principally by the Mamberamo River and its tributaries on the western side, and by the Sepik on the eastern side. The more extensive southern lowlands are drained by a larger number of rivers, principally the

Digul

in the west and the Fly in the east. The largest island offshore, Dolak, lies near the Digul estuary, separated by a strait so narrow it has been named a "creek".

New Guinea contains many of the world's ecosystem types: glacial,

alpine tundra

,

savanna

, montane and lowland rainforest,

mangrove

s,

wetland

s, lake and river ecosystems,

seagrass

es, and some of the richest

coral reef

s on the planet.

Relation to surroundings

The island of New Guinea lies to the east of the

Malay Archipelago

, with which it is sometimes included as part of a greater Indo-Australian Archipelago. Geologically it is a part of the same tectonic plate as Australia. When world sea levels were low, the two shared shorelines (which now lie 100 to 140 metres below sea level), and combined with lands now inundated into the tectonic continent of Sahul, also known as Greater Australia. The two landmasses became separated when the area now known as the Torres Strait flooded after the end of the last glacial period.

Anthropologically, New Guinea is considered part of

Melanesia

.

New Guinea is differentiated from its drier, flatter, and less fertile southern counterpart, Australia, by its much higher rainfall and its active volcanic geology. Yet the two land masses share a similar animal fauna, with marsupials, including

wallabies

and

possums

, and the egg-laying monotreme, the

echidna

. Other than bats and some two dozen indigenous rodent genera, there are no pre-human indigenous

placental mammals

. Pigs, several additional species of rats, and the ancestor of the New Guinea singing dog were introduced with human colonization.

Prior to the 1970s, archaeologists called the single Pleistocene landmass by the name ''Australasia'', although this word is most often used for a wider region that includes lands, such as

New Zealand

, which are not on the same continental shelf. In the early 1970s, they introduced the term ''Greater Australia'' for the Pleistocene continent. Then, at a 1975 conference and consequent publication, they extended the name ''Sahul'' from its previous use for just the Sahul Shelf to cover the continent.

Political divisions

The island of New Guinea is divided politically into roughly equal halves across a north–south line:

* The western portion of the island located west of 141°E longitude (except for a small section of territory to the east of the Fly River which belongs to Papua New Guinea) was formerly a Dutch colony, part of the Dutch East Indies. After the West New Guinea dispute it is now two

Indonesia

n provinces:
** West Papua with

Manokwari

as its capital.
** Papua with the city of Jayapura as its capital.
* The eastern part forms the mainland of

Papua New Guinea

, which has been an independent country since 1975. It was formerly the Territory of Papua and New Guinea governed by Australia, consisting of the Trust Territory of New Guinea (northeastern quarter, formerly

German New Guinea

), and the

Territory of Papua

(southeastern quarter). The Papua New Guinea part encompasses three of four regions:
** Southern, consisting of Western, Gulf, Central, Oro (Northern) and Milne Bay provinces.
** Highlands, consisting of Southern Highlands, Hela Province, Jiwaka Province, Enga Province, Western Highlands, Simbu and Eastern Highlands provinces.
** Momase, consisting of Morobe, Madang, East Sepik and Sandaun (West Sepik) provinces.

People

The current population of the island of New Guinea is about eleven million. Many believe human habitation on the island dates to as early as 50,000 BC, and first settlement possibly dating back to 60,000 years ago has been proposed. The island is presently populated by almost a thousand different tribal groups and a near-equivalent number of separate languages, which makes New Guinea the most linguistically diverse area in the world. Ethnologue's 14th edition lists 826 languages of

Papua New Guinea

and 257 languages of Western New Guinea, total 1073 languages, with 12 languages overlapping. They can be divided into two groups, the Austronesian languages, and all the others, called Papuan languages for convenience. The term ''Papuan languages'' refers to an areal grouping, rather than a linguistic one, since so-called Papuan languages comprise hundreds of different languages, most of which are not related.

The separation is not merely linguistic; warfare among societies was a factor in the evolution of the ''men's house'': separate housing of groups of adult men, from the single-family houses of the women and children, for mutual protection from other tribal groups. Pig-based trade between the groups and pig-based feasts are a common theme with the other peoples of southeast Asia and Oceania. Most societies practice agriculture, supplemented by hunting and gathering.

Current evidence indicates that the Papuans (who constitute the majority of the island's peoples) are descended from the earliest human inhabitants of New Guinea. These original inhabitants first arrived in New Guinea at a time (either side of the Last Glacial Maximum, approx 21,000 years ago) when the island was connected to the Australian continent via a land bridge, forming the landmass of Sahul. These peoples had made the (shortened) sea-crossing from the islands of

Wallacea

and Sundaland (the present

Malay Archipelago

) by at least 40,000 years ago.

The ancestral Austronesian peoples are believed to have arrived considerably later, approximately 3,500 years ago, as part of a gradual seafaring migration from

Southeast Asia

, possibly originating in Taiwan. Austronesian-speaking peoples colonized many of the offshore islands to the north and east of New Guinea, such as New Ireland and

New Britain

, with settlements also on the coastal fringes of the main island in places. Human habitation of New Guinea over tens of thousands of years has led to a great deal of diversity, which was further increased by the later arrival of the Austronesians and the more recent history of European and Asian settlement through events like transmigration.

Large areas of New Guinea are yet to be explored by scientists and anthropologists. The Indonesian province of West Papua is home to an estimated 44

uncontacted tribal groups

.

Biodiversity and ecology

With some 786,000 km² of tropical land—less than one-half of one percent (0.5%) of the Earth's surface—New Guinea has an immense

biodiversity

, containing between 5 and 10 percent of the total species on the planet. This percentage is about the same amount as that found in the United States or Australia. A high percentage of New Guinea's species are endemic, and thousands are still unknown to science: probably well over 200,000 species of insect, between 11,000 and 20,000 plant species, and over 650 resident bird species. Most of these species are shared, at least in their origin, with the continent of Australia, which was until fairly recent geological times part of the same landmass (see Australia-New Guinea for an overview). The island is so large that it is considered 'nearly a continent' in terms of its biological distinctiveness.

In the period from 1998 to 2008, conservationists identified 1,060 new species in New Guinea, including 218 plants, 43 reptiles, 12 mammals, 580 invertebrates, 134 amphibians, 2 birds and 71 fish. Between 2011 and 2017, researchers described 465 previously undocumented plant species in New Guinea. As of 2019, the Indonesian portion of New Guinea and the Maluku Islands is estimated to have 9,518 species of vascular plants, of which 4,380 are endemic. In 2020, an international study conducted by a team of 99 experts cataloged 13,634 species representing 1,742 genera and 264 families of vascular plants for New Guinea and its associated islands ( Aru Is., Bismarck Arch., D'Entrecasteaux Is., Louisiade Arch.), making it the world's most floristically diverse island, surpassing

Madagascar

(11,488),

Borneo

(11,165),

Java

(4,598), and

the Philippines

(9,432).

Biogeographically

, New Guinea is part of

Australasia

rather than the

Indomalaya

n realm, although New Guinea's flora has many more affinities with Asia than its fauna, which is overwhelmingly Australian. Botanically, New Guinea is considered part of

Malesia

, a floristic region that extends from the Malay Peninsula across Indonesia to New Guinea and the East Melanesian Islands. The flora of New Guinea is a mixture of many

tropical rainforest

species with origins in Asia, together with typically Australasian flora. Typical Southern Hemisphere flora include the conifers ''Podocarpus'' and the rainforest emergents ''

Araucaria

'' and ''Agathis,'' as well as

tree fern

s and several species of ''

Eucalyptus

''.

New Guinea has 284 species and six orders of mammals: monotremes, three orders of

marsupials

,

rodent

s and

bat

s; 195 of the mammal species (69%) are endemic. New Guinea has 578 species of breeding birds, of which 324 species are endemic. The island's frogs are one of the most poorly known vertebrate groups, totalling 282 species, but this number is expected to double or even triple when all species have been documented. New Guinea has a rich diversity of coral life and 1,200 species of fish have been found. Also about 600 species of reef-building coral—the latter equal to 75 percent of the world's known total. The entire coral area covers 18 million hectares off a peninsula in northwest New Guinea.

As of 2020, the Western portion of New Guinea, Papua and West Papua, accounts for 54% of the island's primary forest and about 51% of the island's total tree cover, according to satellite data.

Ecoregions

Terrestrial

According to the WWF, New Guinea can be divided into twelve terrestrial ecoregions:

* Central Range montane rain forests
* Central Range sub-alpine grasslands
* Huon Peninsula montane rain forests
* New Guinea mangroves
* Northern New Guinea lowland rain and freshwater swamp forests
* Northern New Guinea montane rain forests
* Southeastern Papuan rain forests
* Southern New Guinea freshwater swamp forests
* Southern New Guinea lowland rain forests
* Trans-Fly savanna and grasslands
* Vogelkop montane rain forests
* Vogelkop-Aru lowland rain forests

Freshwater

The WWF and Nature Conservancy divide New Guinea into five freshwater ecoregions:

* Vogelkop–Bomberai
* New Guinea North Coast
* New Guinea Central Mountains
* Southwest New Guinea–Trans-Fly Lowland
*

Papuan Peninsula

Marine

The WWF and Nature Conservancy identify several marine ecoregions in the seas bordering New Guinea:

* Papua
* Bismarck Sea
* Solomon Sea
* Southeast Papua New Guinea
* Gulf of Papua
* Arafura Sea

History

Early history

The first inhabitants, from whom the Papuan people are probably descended, adapted to the range of ecologies and, in time, developed one of the earliest known agricultures. Remains of this agricultural system, in the form of ancient irrigation systems in the highlands of Papua New Guinea, are being studied by archaeologists. Research indicates that the highlands were an early and independent center of agriculture, with evidence of irrigation going back at least 10,000 years.

Sugarcane

was cultivated for the first time in New Guinea around 6000 BC.

The gardens of the New Guinea Highlands are ancient, intensive permacultures, adapted to high population densities, very high rainfalls (as high as 10,000 mm per year (400 in/yr)), earthquakes, hilly land, and occasional frost. Complex mulches, crop rotations and tillages are used in rotation on terraces with complex irrigation systems. Western agronomists still do not understand all of the practices, and it has been noted that native gardeners are as, or even more, successful than most scientific farmers in raising certain crops. There is evidence that New Guinea gardeners invented crop rotation well before western Europeans. A unique feature of New Guinea permaculture is the silviculture of ''Casuarina oligodon'', a tall, sturdy native

ironwood

tree, suited to use for timber and fuel, with root nodules that fix nitrogen. Pollen studies show that it was adopted during an ancient period of extreme deforestation.

In more recent millennia, another wave of people arrived on the shores of New Guinea. These were the Austronesian people, who had spread down from

Taiwan

, through the South-east Asian archipelago, colonising many of the islands on the way. The Austronesian people had technology and skills extremely well adapted to ocean voyaging and Austronesian language speaking people are present along much of the coastal areas and islands of New Guinea. These Austronesian migrants are considered the ancestors of most people in insular Southeast Asia, from

Sumatra

and

Java

to

Borneo

and

Sulawesi

, as well as coastal new Guinea.

Precolonial history

The western part of the island was in contact with kingdoms in other parts of modern-day Indonesia. The ''Negarakertagama'' mentioned the region of Wanin in eastern Nusantara as part of

Majapahit

's tributary. This has been identified with the Onin Peninsula, part of the Bomberai Peninsula near the city of Fakfak. The sultans of

Tidore

, in the

Maluku Islands

, claimed sovereignty over various coastal parts of the island. During Tidore's rule, the main exports of the island during this period were resins, spices, slaves and the highly priced feathers of the bird-of-paradise.

Sultan Nuku

, one of the most famous Tidore sultans who rebelled against Dutch colonization, called himself "Sultan of Tidore and Papua", during his revolt in 1780s. He commanded loyalty from both Moluccan and Papuan chiefs, especially those of

Raja Ampat

Islands. Following Tidore's defeat, much of the territory it claimed in western part of New Guinea came under Dutch rule as part of Dutch East Indies.

European contact

The first European contact with New Guinea was by Portuguese and Spanish sailors in the 16th century. In 1526–27, Portuguese explorer Jorge de Meneses saw the western tip of New Guinea and named it ''ilhas dos Papuas''. In 1528, the Spanish navigator Álvaro de Saavedra also recorded its sighting when trying to return from

Tidore

to

New Spain

. In 1545, Spaniard Íñigo Ortíz de Retes sailed along the north coast of New Guinea as far as the Mamberamo River, near which he landed on 20 June, naming the island 'Nueva Guinea'. The first map showing the whole island (as an island) was published in 1600 and shows it as 'Nova Guinea'. In 1606, Luís Vaz de Torres explored the southern coast of New Guinea from

Milne Bay

to the Gulf of Papua including Orangerie Bay, which he named ''Bahía de San Lorenzo''. His expedition also discovered Basilaki Island naming it ''Tierra de San Buenaventura'', which he claimed for Spain in July 1606.Translation of Torres’ report to the king in Collingridge, G. (1895) ''Discovery of Australia'' p.229-237. Golden Press Edition 1983, Gladesville, NSW. On 18 October, his expedition reached the western part of the island in present-day Indonesia, and also claimed the territory for the King of Spain.

A successive European claim occurred in 1828, when the Netherlands formally claimed the western half of the island as Netherlands New Guinea. In 1883, following a short-lived French annexation of New Ireland, the British colony of

Queensland

annexed south-eastern New Guinea. However, the Queensland government's superiors in the

United Kingdom

revoked the claim, and (formally) assumed direct responsibility in 1884, when Germany claimed north-eastern New Guinea as the protectorate of

German New Guinea

(also called Kaiser-Wilhelmsland).

The first Dutch government posts were established in 1898 and in 1902: Manokwari on the north coast, Fak-Fak in the west and Merauke in the south at the border with

British New Guinea

. The German, Dutch and British colonial administrators each attempted to suppress the still-widespread practices of inter-village warfare and headhunting within their respective territories.

In 1905, the British government transferred some administrative responsibility over southeast New Guinea to Australia (which renamed the area "

Territory of Papua

"); and, in 1906, transferred all remaining responsibility to Australia. During

World War I

, Australian forces seized German New Guinea, which in 1920 became the Territory of New Guinea, to be administered by Australia under a League of Nations mandate. The territories under Australian administration became collectively known as The Territories of Papua and New Guinea (until February 1942).

Before about 1930, European maps showed the highlands as uninhabited forests. When first flown over by aircraft, numerous settlements with agricultural terraces and stockades were observed. The most startling discovery took place on 4 August 1938, when Richard Archbold discovered the Grand Valley of the Baliem River, which had 50,000 yet-undiscovered Stone Age farmers living in orderly villages. The people, known as the Dani, were the last society of its size to make first contact with the rest of the world. A 1930 expedition led by the prospector Michael Lehay also encountered an indigenous group in the highlands. The inhabitants, believing themselves to be the only people in the world and, having never seen Europeans before, initially believed the explorers to be spirits of the dead due to the local belief that a person's skin turned white when they died and crossed into the land of the dead.

World War II

Netherlands New Guinea and the Australian territories were invaded in 1942 by the

Japanese

. The Australian territories were put under military administration and were known simply as New Guinea. The highlands, northern and eastern parts of the island became key battlefields in the South West Pacific Theatre of World War II. Papuans often gave vital assistance to the Allies, fighting alongside Australian troops, and carrying equipment and injured men across New Guinea. Approximately 216,000 Japanese, Australian and U.S. soldiers, sailors and airmen died during the New Guinea Campaign.

Since World War II

Following the return to civil administration after World War II, the Australian section was known as the Territory of Papua-New Guinea from 1945 to 1949 and then as Territory of Papua and New Guinea. Although the rest of the Dutch East Indies achieved independence as Indonesia on 27 December 1949, the Netherlands regained control of western New Guinea.

During the 1950s, the Dutch government began to prepare Netherlands New Guinea for full independence and allowed elections in 1959; the elected New Guinea Council took office on 5 April 1961. The Council decided on the name of West Papua (''Papua Barat'') for the territory, along with an emblem,

flag

, and anthem to complement those of the Netherlands. On 1 October 1962, after some military interventions and negotiations, the Dutch handed over the territory to the United Nations Temporary Executive Authority, until 1 May 1963, when Indonesia took control. The territory was renamed West Irian (''Irian Barat'') and then Irian Jaya. In 1969, Indonesia, under the 1962 New York Agreement, organised a referendum named the Act of Free Choice, in which hand picked Papuan tribal elders reached a consensus to continue the union with Indonesia.

There has been some resistance to Indonesian integration and occupation,Philippe Pataud Celerier
Autonomy isn’t independence; Indonesian democracy stops in Papua

Le Monde Diplomatique

, June 2010 both through civil disobedience (such as Morning Star flag raising ceremonies) and via the formation of the

Organisasi Papua Merdeka

(OPM, or Free Papua Movement) in 1965.

Amnesty International

has estimated more than 100,000 Papuans, one-sixth of the population, have died as a result of government-sponsored violence against West Papuans.

From 1971, the name Papua New Guinea was used for the Australian territory. On 16 September 1975, Australia granted full independence to Papua New Guinea. In 2000, Irian Jaya was formally renamed "The Province of Papua" and a Law on Special Autonomy was passed in 2001. The Law established a Papuan People's Assembly (MRP) with representatives of the different indigenous cultures of Papua. The MRP was empowered to protect the rights of Papuans, raise the status of women in Papua, and to ease religious tensions in Papua; block grants were given for the implementation of the Law as much as $266 million in 2004. The Indonesian courts' enforcement of the Law on Special Autonomy blocked further creation of subdivisions of Papua: although President

Megawati Sukarnoputri

was able to create a separate West Papua province in 2003 as a fait accompli, plans for a third province on western New Guinea were blocked by the courts. Critics argue that the Indonesian government has been reluctant to establish or issue various government implementing regulations so that the legal provisions of special autonomy could be put into practice, and as a result special autonomy in Papua has "failed".

The culture of inter-tribal warfare and animosity between the neighboring tribes are still present in New Guinea.

See also

*West New Guinea dispute

Notes and references

Bibliography

*

Jared Diamond

, '' Guns, Germs and Steel: A Short History of Everybody for the last 13,000 Years'', 1997.

External links

Facsimile of material from "The Discovery of New Guinea" by George Collingridge

Scientists hail discovery of hundreds of new species in remote New Guinea

PapuaWeb official website


*

{{Authority control

Islands of the Pacific Ocean
Divided regions
International islands
Melanesia
Islands of Indonesia
Islands of Papua New Guinea
Former Spanish colonies