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Jengish Chokusu ( ky, Жеңиш чокусу, , , ; zh, 托木尔峰; russian: Пик Победы, ''Pik Pobedy'', ) is the highest
mountain A mountain is an elevated portion of the Earth's crust, generally with steep sides that show significant exposed bedrock. A mountain differs from a plateau in having a limited summit area, and is larger than a hill, typically rising at least ...

mountain
in the
Tian Shan The Tian Shan,; dng, Тянсан, ; otk, 𐰴𐰣 𐱅𐰭𐰼𐰃, ; tr, Tanrı Dağı; mn, Тэнгэр уул, ; ug, تەڭرىتاغ, , ; kk, Тәңіртауы / Алатау, , ; ky, Теңир-Тоо / Ала-Тоо, , ; uz, Tyan ...

Tian Shan
mountain system at . It lies on the
Kyrgyzstan russian: Киргизская Республика, Kirgizskaya Respublika , image_flag = Flag of Kyrgyzstan.svg , image_coat = Emblem of Kyrgyzstan.svg , symbol_type = Emblem , motto = " ...

Kyrgyzstan
China China (), officially the People's Republic of China (PRC; ), is a country in East Asia East Asia is the eastern region of Asia Asia () is Earth's largest and most populous continent, located primarily in the Eastern Hemisphere ...

China
border between the raion of Ak-Suu, in the
Issyk-Kul Region Issyk-Kul Region ( ky, Ысык-Көл облусу, Isıq-Köl oblusu; russian: Иссык-Кульская область, Issyk-Kulskaya oblast) is one of the regions of Kyrgyzstan. Its capital is Karakol. It is surrounded by Almaty Region, Ka ...
of far Eastern Kyrgyzstan and
Wensu County Onsu County, National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency, United States National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency ( ug, ئونسۇ ناھىيىسى, lat=Onsu Nahiyisi) and from Mandarin Chinese Wensu County ( zh, s=温宿县), is a county in the Xinjiang ...
,
Xinjiang Xinjiang (),, SASM/GNC: ''Xinjang''; zh, c=, p=Xīnjiāng; alternately romanized as Sinkiang officially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region (XUAR) and formerly romanized as Sinkiang, is a landlocked autonomous region An autonomous ...

Xinjiang
, China. It is part of the Kakshaal Too, the highest part of the Tian Shan and located southeast of lake
Issyk Kul Issyk-Kul (also Ysyk-Köl, ky, Ысык-Көл, translit=Ysyk-Köl, ; russian: Иссык-Куль, ) is an endorheic An endorheic basin (; also spelled endoreic basin or endorreic basin) is a drainage basin A drainage basin is any ...

Issyk Kul
.


Names

The mountain's official name in
KyrgyzKyrgyz, Kirghiz or Kyrgyzstani may refer to: *Things related to Kyrgyzstan *Kyrgyz people *Kyrgyz language *Kyrgyz culture *Kyrgyz cuisine *Yenisei Kirghiz *The Fuyu Kyrgyz language, Fuyü Gïrgïs language in Northeastern China {{Disambig Languag ...
is ''Jengish Choqusu'', which means "Victory Peak"; its
Russian Russian refers to anything related to Russia, including: *Russians (русские, ''russkiye''), an ethnic group of the East Slavic peoples, primarily living in Russia and neighboring countries *Rossiyane (россияне), Russian language term ...
name is ''Pik Pobedy'' (or Peak Pobeda) meaning the same. In
UyghurUyghur may refer to: * Uyghurs, a Turkic ethnic group living in Eastern and Central Asia * Uyghur language, a Turkic language spoken primarily by the Uyghurs ** Uyghur alphabets, any of four systems used to write the language * Uyghur Khaganate, a T ...
, it is called ''Tömür'', which is also the official name of the mountain in China. The
Chinese Chinese can refer to: * Something related to China China (), officially the People's Republic of China (PRC; ), is a country in . It is the world's , with a of more than 1.4 billion. China spans five geographical and 14 different count ...
name ''Tuōmù'ěr Fēng'' () is a combination of the Uighur ''tomur'', meaning 'iron' and Chinese ''feng'' meaning 'peak'.


Description

Jengish Chokusu is a massif, with several summits along its lengthy ridge. Only its main summit breaks 7,000 m. It is located southwest of
Khan Tengri Khan Tengri is a mountain of the Tian Shan mountain range. It is on the China—Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan tripoint, east of lake Issyk Kul. Its geologic elevation is , but its glacial icecap rises to . For this reason, in mountaineering cir ...
(7,010 m / 22,998 ft), separated by the South
Engilchek glacier Engilchek Glacier ( ky, Эңилчек, russian: Энильчек - ''Enilchek'', also Иныльчек - ''Inylchek'') is a glacier in the Central Tian Shan Mountains of Issyk-Kul Region, northeastern Kyrgyzstan. Its snout is 50 km east of ...
, where base camps for both mountains are usually located. The massif runs at
right angles In geometry Geometry (from the grc, γεωμετρία; ' "earth", ' "measurement") is, with , one of the oldest branches of . It is concerned with properties of space that are related with distance, shape, size, and relative position ...
to the glaciers which flow from it into three alpine valleys in Kyrgyzstan on the north, all eventually running to the
Engilchek Glacier Engilchek Glacier ( ky, Эңилчек, russian: Энильчек - ''Enilchek'', also Иныльчек - ''Inylchek'') is a glacier in the Central Tian Shan Mountains of Issyk-Kul Region, northeastern Kyrgyzstan. Its snout is 50 km east of ...
, the largest in the Tian Shan. Its main summit is usually approached from the Zvozdochka (Russian for "little star") glacier, which is coloured red with rocks from Jengish Chokusu. Administratively, the Kyrgyzstan side of the mountain is in the
Ak-Suu District Ak-Suu is a raion (district) of Issyk-Kul Region in eastern Kyrgyzstan. The administrative center lies at the village Ak-Suu, Kyrgyzstan, Ak-Suu. Its area is , and its resident population was 63,686 in 2009. Geography Located in Kyrgyzstan's easte ...
of
Issyk-Kul Region Issyk-Kul Region ( ky, Ысык-Көл облусу, Isıq-Köl oblusu; russian: Иссык-Кульская область, Issyk-Kulskaya oblast) is one of the regions of Kyrgyzstan. Its capital is Karakol. It is surrounded by Almaty Region, Ka ...
and the Chinese side, in
Wensu County Onsu County, National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency, United States National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency ( ug, ئونسۇ ناھىيىسى, lat=Onsu Nahiyisi) and from Mandarin Chinese Wensu County ( zh, s=温宿县), is a county in the Xinjiang ...
of the
Aksu Prefecture Aksu PrefectureThe official spelling according to is located in mid-Western Xinjiang Xinjiang (),, SASM/GNC: ''Xinjang''; zh, c=, p=Xīnjiāng; alternately romanized as Sinkiang officially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region (XUAR) ...
of
Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region Xinjiang (),, SASM/GNC romanization, SASM/GNC: ''Xinjang''; zh, c=, p=Xīnjiāng; Chinese postal romanization, alternately romanized as Sinkiang officially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region (XUAR) and Postal romanization, formerly roman ...

Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region
.


Records

Jengish Chokusu is the highest mountain in Kyrgyzstan. Jengish Chokusu is considered the most northerly 7,000-metre mountain in the world by geologists; the actual rock summit of
Khan Tengri Khan Tengri is a mountain of the Tian Shan mountain range. It is on the China—Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan tripoint, east of lake Issyk Kul. Its geologic elevation is , but its glacial icecap rises to . For this reason, in mountaineering cir ...
, the Tian Shan's third highest peak, is 6,995m above sea level, though a thick layer of ice adds another 15m to its altitude, such that
mountaineers Mountaineering, or alpinism, is the set of outdoor activities Outdoor recreation or outdoor activity refers to recreation Recreation is an activity of leisure, leisure being discretionary time. The "need to do something for recreation" is a ...

mountaineers
classify it as 7,000m peak. The South Engilchek Glacier and its side glaciers occupy the entire north side of Peak Jengish Chokusu. This glacier, currently at 60.5 km in length, is the sixth longest outside of the world's polar regions.


History

Although Jengish Chokusu is over 400 metres higher,
Khan Tengri Khan Tengri is a mountain of the Tian Shan mountain range. It is on the China—Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan tripoint, east of lake Issyk Kul. Its geologic elevation is , but its glacial icecap rises to . For this reason, in mountaineering cir ...
was believed to be the highest peak in the range until Jengish Chokusu's survey in 1943. /sup> A Soviet expedition mounted in 1938 to mark the 20th anniversary of the founding of the Communist Youth movement
Komsomol , colorcode = red , logo = , founded = , dissolved = , headquarters = , succeeded by = Russian Communist Youth League , ideology = , mother party = Communist Party of the Soviet ...
claimed to have climbed the highest peak in the area, the summit being reached on 19 September by L. Gutman, E. Ivanov and A. Sidorenko. They measured the altitude as 6,900 metres, and named the peak ''Pik 20-ti letiya Komsomola'' (Peak of the 20th Anniversary of Komsomol). A survey by another team in 1943 found the peak to be 7,439 metres high. The peak was renamed as ''Pik Pobedy'' (Victory's Peak) in 1946 to commemorate the Soviet victory in
World War II World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a global war A world war is "a war War is an intense armed conflict between states State may refer to: Arts, entertainment, and media Literatur ...
. The significant difference in altitude led to the 1938 ascent being called into question, although the official Soviet stand was to uphold the 1938 ascent. A large-scale attempt on the peak in 1955 was disastrous, when 11 expedition members were killed in a blizzard. Jengish Chokusu's first indisputably verified ascent was in 1956 by
Vitaly Abalakov Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov (russian: Вита́лий Миха́йлович Абала́ков) ( in Krasnoyarsk – 26 May 1986 in MoscowGreat Russian Encyclopedia (2006), Moscow: Bol'shaya Rossiyskaya Enciklopediya Publisher, vol. 1, p. 9) ...
's party. A Chinese expedition climbed the peak from the Chinese side in 1977: the expedition book makes no mention of the Russian first ascent and gives the impression that the Chinese ascent was the first climb.Planting the Five-Star Flag on Mount Tomur, Foreign Languages Press, Beijing, 1979 The first winter ascent of Peak Pobeda was made by
Valery Khrichtchatyi Valery Nikolaevich Khrichtchatyi (russian: Валерий Никола́евич Хрищатый; December 23, 1951 – August 4, 1993) was a Kazakh mountaineer. He made more than forty ascents above 7,000 meters (23,000 feet), including a strin ...
(team leader), S. Ovcharenko, G. Mikhailov, and brothers G. Bogomolov and S. Bogomolov on February 2, 1990.Chris Bonington, “Great Climbs”, p.206, The first solo speed ascent was made by
Anatoli Boukreev Anatoli Nikolaevich Boukreev (russian: Анато́лий Никола́евич Букре́ев; January 16, 1958 – December 25, 1997) was a Russians in Kazakhstan, Russian Kazakhstani mountaineer who made ascents of 10 of the 14 eight-thousan ...
in August 1990.


References


Further reading

*


External links


Route maps


{{Authority control Mountains of Xinjiang Mountains of Kyrgyzstan China–Kyrgyzstan border International mountains of Asia Issyk-Kul Region Aksu Prefecture Highest points of countries Seven-thousanders of the Tian Shan