Jugging is the process of
stewing whole animals, mainly
game
A game is a structured type of play usually undertaken for entertainment or fun, and sometimes used as an educational tool. Many games are also considered to be work (such as professional players of spectator sports or video games) or art ...
or fish, for an extended period in a tightly covered container such as a
casserole
A casserole (French language, French: diminutive of , from Provençal dialect, Provençal , meaning 'saucepan') is a kind of large, deep cookware and bakeware, pan or bowl used for cooking a variety of dishes in the oven; it is also a categor ...
or an earthenware jug.
In France a similar stew of a game animal (historically thickened with the animal's blood) is known as a .
Jugged hare

Jugged hare (a similar stew is known as in France), a common dish involving jugging, is a whole
hare
Hares and jackrabbits are mammals belonging to the genus ''Lepus''. They are herbivores and live Solitary animal, solitarily or in pairs. They nest in slight depressions called forms, and their young are precociality, able to fend for themselves ...
, cut into pieces, marinated and cooked with red wine and
juniper berries
A juniper berry is the female seed cone produced by the various species of junipers. It is not a true berry but a cone with unusually fleshy and merged scales called a galbulus, which gives it a berry-like appearance. The cones from a handful of ...
in a tall jug that stands in a pan of water. It is traditionally served with the hare's blood, or the blood is added at the end of the cooking process, and
port wine
Port wine (, ; ), or simply port, is a Portuguese wine, Portuguese fortified wine produced in the Douro, Douro Valley of Norte, Portugal, northern Portugal. It is typically a sweetness of wine, sweet red wine, often served with dessert wine, ...
.

Jugged hare is described in the influential 18th-century cookbook ''
The Art of Cookery'', by
Hannah Glasse. Beginning in the nineteenth century, Glasse has been widely credited with having started the recipe with the words "First, catch your hare".
This attribution is apocryphal. Her actual directions are, "Take your Hare when it is cas'd, and make a pudding ..." To 'case' means to take off the skin
ot "to catch" Both the ''
Oxford English Dictionary
The ''Oxford English Dictionary'' (''OED'') is the principal historical dictionary of the English language, published by Oxford University Press (OUP), a University of Oxford publishing house. The dictionary, which published its first editio ...
'' and ''
The Dictionary of National Biography'' discuss the attribution.
However, having a freshly caught, or shot, hare enables one to obtain its blood. A freshly killed hare is prepared for jugging by removing its
entrails and then hanging it in a
larder
A larder is a cool area for storing food prior to use. Originally, it was where raw meat was larded—covered in fat—to be preserved. This method slowed spoilage by sealing out air, bacteria, and moisture. In colder larders (4°C/40°F or lower) ...
by its hind legs, which causes the blood to accumulate in the chest cavity. One method of preserving the blood after draining it from the hare (since the hare itself is usually hung for a week or more) is to mix it with red wine vinegar in order to prevent it
coagulating
Coagulation, also known as clotting, is the process by which blood changes from a liquid to a gel, forming a thrombus, blood clot. It results in hemostasis, the cessation of blood loss from a damaged vessel, followed by repair. The process of co ...
, and then to store it in a freezer.
Many other British cookbooks from before the middle of the 20th century have recipes for jugged hare. Merle and Reitch have this to say about jugged hare, for example:
In 2006, a survey of 2021 people for the television channel
UKTV Food found that only 1.6% of the people aged under 25 recognized jugged hare by name. 7 out of 10 of those people stated that they would refuse to eat jugged hare if it were served at the house of a friend or a relative.
Civet de lapin
Civet de lapin (
rabbit stew) is an alternative to ''civet de lièvre''. It is considered a speciality of the cuisine of
Martinique
Martinique ( ; or ; Kalinago language, Kalinago: or ) is an island in the Lesser Antilles of the West Indies, in the eastern Caribbean Sea. It was previously known as Iguanacaera which translates to iguana island in Carib language, Kariʼn ...
.
Jugged kippers
Another jugged dish, also traditional in the
United Kingdom
The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, commonly known as the United Kingdom (UK) or Britain, is a country in Northwestern Europe, off the coast of European mainland, the continental mainland. It comprises England, Scotlan ...
, is jugged kippers, which is
kippers (with the heads and tails removed) in a covered jug, cooked in boiling water. Recipe books recommend jugging kippers as one way of avoiding the strong smell that kippers have.
See also
*
List of cooking techniques
This is a list of cooking techniques commonly used in cooking and food preparation.
Cooking is the practice of preparing food for ingestion, commonly with the application of differentiated heating. Cooking techniques and ingredients vary widely ...
*
List of meat dishes
References
Further reading
*
Mrs Beeton's recipe for Jugged Hare
* Another detailed recipe, with alternatives
* Bishop's recipe includes a note that "in some parts of the country" the hare is cooked in ale with bacon.
* A recipe for Jugged Steak
* A modern French recipe for civet de lièvre, using a
pressure cooker
* Two recipes for jugging
pigeon
Columbidae is a bird family consisting of doves and pigeons. It is the only family in the order Columbiformes. These are stout-bodied birds with small heads, relatively short necks and slender bills that in some species feature fleshy ceres. ...
s
{{English cuisine
Blood dishes
Cooking techniques
Meat dishes
Stews