Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional

rock climber Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are documented in guidebooks, and ...

, specializing in

competition climbing Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing, rock-climbing competition held indoor climbing, indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls (earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces). The three competition ...

(lead and boulder),

sport climbing Sport climbing (or bolted climbing) is a type of free climbing in the sport of rock climbing where the Lead climbing, lead climber clips their climbing rope, rope — via a quickdraw — into pre-drilled in-situ bolt (climbing), bolts for their ...

, and

bouldering Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...

. He is a four-time

World Champion A world championship is generally an international competition open to elite competitors from around the world, representing their nations, and winning such an event will be considered the highest or near highest achievement in the sport, game ...

(2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three-time

World Cup A world cup is a global sporting competition in which the participant entities – usually international teams or individuals representing their countries – compete for the title of world champion. The event most associated with the name is ...

winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in

lead climbing Lead climbing (or leading) is a technique in rock climbing where the 'lead climber' Glossary of climbing terms#clip in, clips their rope to the climbing protection as they ascend a pitch (climbing), pitch of the climbing route, while their 'seco ...

. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the

combined event Combined track and field events are competitions in which athletes participate in a number of track and field events, earning points for their performance in each event, which adds to a total points score. Outdoors, the most common combined events ...

(2020 and 2024). As of 2023, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history. In addition to competition climbing, Schubert was the first climber in the world to have both redpointed a graded sport climbing route and climbed a graded bouldering problem.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Schubert started

in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven World Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering. In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in

Arco Arco may refer to: Places * Arco, Trentino, a town in Trentino, Italy * Arco, Idaho, in the United States * Arco, Minnesota, a city in the United States * ARCO Arena in Sacramento, California, home of the Sacramento Kings Companies * ARCO (b ...

. The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six). In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris. In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time. In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown,

Innsbruck Innsbruck (; ) is the capital of Tyrol (federal state), Tyrol and the List of cities and towns in Austria, fifth-largest city in Austria. On the Inn (river), River Inn, at its junction with the Wipptal, Wipp Valley, which provides access to the ...

. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as

Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (; born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondr ...

(36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after

Domen Škofic Domen Škofic (born April 11, 1994 in Ljubljana) is a Slovenian rock climber who specializes in competition climbing and also outdoor sport climbing. In 2016, he won the IFSC Climbing World Cup in competition lead climbing Competition climb ...

. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup. Schubert's performance at the

2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from ...

qualified him for a place at the

2020 Summer Olympics The officially the and officially branded as were an international multi-sport event that was held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some of the preliminary sporting events beginning on 21 July 2021. Tokyo ...

Tokyo Tokyo, officially the Tokyo Metropolis, is the capital of Japan, capital and List of cities in Japan, most populous city in Japan. With a population of over 14 million in the city proper in 2023, it is List of largest cities, one of the most ...

, where he won the bronze medal in the

. Schubert won the lead event at the

2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships The 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 18th edition, was held in Bern, Switzerland from 1 to 12 August 2023. The competition climbing championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and boulder & lead combined events, along with the ...

, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport. He followed that up by winning the combined event, which qualified him to compete in the combined event at the

2024 Summer Olympics The 2024 Summer Olympics (), officially the Games of the XXXIII Olympiad () and branded as Paris 2024, were an international multi-sport event held in France from 26 July to 11 August 2024, with several events started from 24 July. P ...

Paris Paris () is the Capital city, capital and List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants, largest city of France. With an estimated population of 2,048,472 residents in January 2025 in an area of more than , Paris is the List of ci ...

. He won a second consecutive bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.

Rock climbing

In 2023, Schubert became the only person in the world to have climbed the top grade in both bouldering and sport climbing.

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Championships

Youth Adult

Climbing European Championships

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

Bouldering

Number of medals in the Olympics

Combined

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

: :* ''B.I.G.'' –

Flatanger Flatanger is a municipality in Trøndelag county, Norway. It is part of the Namdalen region. The administrative centre of the municipality is Lauvsnes. Other villages include Jøssund, Hasvåg, and Vik. The municipality is the 216th largest b ...

(

Norway Norway, officially the Kingdom of Norway, is a Nordic countries, Nordic country located on the Scandinavian Peninsula in Northern Europe. The remote Arctic island of Jan Mayen and the archipelago of Svalbard also form part of the Kingdom of ...

) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent and third-ever proposed at 9c. : :* ''Perfecto Mundo'' –

Margalef Margalef () is a village in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated on the edge of Montsant and is a popular ecotourism destination, especially among rock climbers. The rock type is conglomerate and it has more than 1500 climbing routes of differe ...

( ESP) – November 9, 2019 – Third ascent (first by

Alexander Megos Alexander "Alex" Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a graded route. He has made the first free ascen ...

). : :* ''The Flame'' -

Austria Austria, formally the Republic of Austria, is a landlocked country in Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine Federal states of Austria, states, of which the capital Vienna is the List of largest cities in Aust ...

(

AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) *Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin * Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations *Arri ...

) – 2023 – First ascent :* ''Erebor'' –

( ITA) – 2022 – Repeat ascent of

Stefano Ghisolfi Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition boulderin ...

's route. :* ''King Capella'' – Siurana ( ESP) – 2021 – Third ascent of

William Bosi William (Will) Bosi (born 27 December 1998) is a Scottish professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a graded sport climbin ...

's route. :* ''Neanderthal'' –

Santa Linya Les Avellanes i Santa Linya () is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of Noguera, in the province of Lleida, Catalonia Catalonia is an autonomous community of Spain, designated as a ''nationalities and regions of Spain, nationality'' by it ...

( ESP) – December 28, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma. :* ''El Bon Combat'' – Cova de I'Ocell ( ESP) – December 1, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma. :* ''Stoking the Fire'' –

( ESP) – January 5, 2018 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013). :* ''La Planta da Shiva'' –

Villanueva del Rosario Villanueva del Rosario is a town and municipality in the province of Málaga in the autonomous community of Andalusia in southern Spain. It is located off the motorway from Málaga to Granada and Seville. It is situated in the northeast of the pr ...

( ESP) – January 4, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra. :* ''Fight or flight'' –

Oliana Oliana () is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir. There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence ...

( ) – December 31, 2014 – Third ascent (first by

Chris Sharma Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Real ...

, 2011). :* ''

Es Pontàs Es Pontàs ("the big bridge" in the Catalan language) is a natural arch made from limestone in the southeastern part of the island of Mallorca in Spain. The arch is located on the coastline between the Cala Santanyí and Cala Llombards in the muni ...

'' –

Mallorca Mallorca, or Majorca, is the largest of the Balearic Islands, which are part of Spain, and the List of islands in the Mediterranean#By area, seventh largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. The capital of the island, Palma, Majorca, Palma, i ...

( ESP) – October, 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route. :* ''Catxasa'' –

( ESP) – January 9, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma :* ''Seleccio Anal'' –

( ESP) – January 8, 2017 :* ''Pachamama'' –

( ESP) – January 2, 2017 – Third ascent (first by

, 2009) :* ''Joe Mama'' –

( ESP) – December 27, 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma :* ''Kangroo Limb'' –

( NOR) – May 29, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra :* ''Companion of Change'' –

Zillertal The Ziller Valley () is a valley in Tyrol (state), Tyrol, Austria that is drained by the Ziller River. It is the widest valley south of the Inn (river), Inn Valley () and lends its name to the Zillertal Alps, the strongly Glacier, glaciated sectio ...

(

) – November 18, 2015 – First ascent :* ''Papichulo'' –

( ESP) – April 27, 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by

, 2008) : :* ''Kein Licht Kein Schatten'' –

Ötztal The Ötztal () is an alpine valley located in Tyrol, Austria. The Ötztaler Ache river flows through the valley in a northern direction. The Ötztal separates the Stubai Alps in the east from the Ötztal Alps in the west. The valley is long. The ...

( ) – November 8, 2016 – First ascent :* ''Kraftplatzl'' –

Berglsteiner See Berglsteiner See is a lake of Tyrol, Austria. The lake is located on 713 m height in Breitenbach am Inn in a depression of the south slope of the Voldöppberg (1,509 m), which is part of the Brandenberg Alps The Brandenberg Alps () are a sub-gro ...

(

) – October 15, 2016 – Second Ascent after

David Lama David Lama (; 4 August 1990 – 16 April 2019) was an Austrian rock climber and alpinist. He won the European Championship in competition bouldering in 2007 and the European Championship in competition lead climbing in 2006. He is known for h ...

:* ''Direct open your mind'' –

( ESP) – January 3, 2013 :* ''Fuck the System'' – Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013 :* ''Analogica Natural'' – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 2, 2013 :* ''Seleccio Natural'' – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2012 :* ''Ciudad de Dios'' – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 24, 2012 :* ''Martin Krpan'' – Misja Pec ( ) – November 21, 2011 :* ''Hades'' –

Nassereith Nassereith is a municipality and a village in the Imst district in Tyrol, Austria and is located 11 km north of Imst Imst (; Southern Bavarian: ''Imscht'') is a town in the Austrian federal state of Tyrol. It lies on the River Inn in wes ...

, Götterwand (

) – May 30, 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008 :* ''Underground'' – Massone,

( ITA) – March 30, 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

Onsight Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. ebook: The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; ...
ed routes

: :* ''Aitzol'' –

( ESP) – April 23, 2011 :

Boulder problems

:9A (V17) :* '' Alphane'' – Chironico ( CHE) – ''December 21, 2023'' :8C (V15) :*''Sierra Madre'' – Zillertal (

) – November 20, 2018 : 8B+ (V14) :*''Witness the fitness'' – Cova de Ocell ( ESP) – January 13, 2019 – flashed :*''Hide and Sick'' – Maltatal (

) – March 25, 2018 :*''Off the Wagon -'' Val Bavona ( CHE) January 10, 2020 :

References

External links

* * * * {{DEFAULTSORT:Schubert, Jakob Austrian rock climbers Living people 1990 births Sportspeople from Innsbruck World Games silver medalists for Austria World Games medalists in sport climbing Competitors at the 2009 World Games Olympic sport climbers for Austria Sport climbers at the 2020 Summer Olympics Sport climbers at the 2024 Summer Olympics Medalists at the 2020 Summer Olympics Olympic bronze medalists for Austria Olympic medalists in sport climbing IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists Boulder climbers Austrian competition climbers Medalists at the 2013 World Games

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Rock climbing

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Championships

Climbing European Championships

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

Bouldering

Number of medals in the Olympics

Combined

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

Onsight Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. ebook: The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; ...ed routes

Boulder problems

See also

References

External links

Onsight Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. ebook: The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; ...
ed routes