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The Isle of Arran (; sco, Isle o Arran; gd, Eilean Arainn) or simply Arran is an island off the west coast of Scotland. It is the largest island in the
Firth of Clyde The Firth of Clyde is the mouth of the River Clyde. It is located on the west coast of Scotland and constitutes the deepest coastal waters in the British Isles (it is 164 metres deep at its deepest). The firth is sheltered from the Atlantic ...
and the seventh-largest Scottish island, at .
Historically History (derived ) is the systematic study and the documentation of the human activity. The time period of event before the invention of writing systems is considered prehistory. "History" is an umbrella term comprising past events as well ...
part of
Buteshire The County of Bute ( gd, Siorrachd Bhòid), also known as Buteshire, is a historic county and registration county of Scotland. The county comprises a number of islands in the Firth of Clyde, between the counties of Argyll and Ayrshire, the p ...
, it is in the
unitary council area A unitary authority is a local authority responsible for all local government functions within its area or performing additional functions that elsewhere are usually performed by a higher level of sub-national government or the national governmen ...
of
North Ayrshire North Ayrshire ( gd, Siorrachd Àir a Tuath, ) is one of 32 council areas in Scotland. The council area borders Inverclyde to the north, Renfrewshire and East Renfrewshire to the northeast, and East Ayrshire and South Ayrshire to the east a ...
. In the 2011 census it had a resident population of 4,629. Though culturally and physically similar to the
Hebrides The Hebrides (; gd, Innse Gall, ; non, Suðreyjar, "southern isles") are an archipelago off the west coast of the Scottish mainland. The islands fall into two main groups, based on their proximity to the mainland: the Inner and Outer Hebri ...
, it is separated from them by the
Kintyre peninsula Kintyre ( gd, Cinn Tìre, ) is a peninsula in western Scotland, in the southwest of Argyll and Bute. The peninsula stretches about , from the Mull of Kintyre in the south to East and West Loch Tarbert in the north. The region immediately north ...
. Often referred to as "Scotland in Miniature", the island is divided into highland and lowland areas by the Highland Boundary Fault and has been described as a "geologist's paradise".Haswell-Smith (2004) pp. 11–17. Arran has been continuously inhabited since the early
Neolithic The Neolithic period, or New Stone Age, is an Old World archaeological period and the final division of the Stone Age. It saw the Neolithic Revolution, a wide-ranging set of developments that appear to have arisen independently in several pa ...
period. Numerous prehistoric remains have been found. From the 6th century onwards, Goidelic-speaking peoples from Ireland colonised it and it became a centre of religious activity. In the troubled
Viking Age The Viking Age () was the period during the Middle Ages when Norsemen known as Vikings undertook large-scale raiding, colonizing, conquest, and trading throughout Europe and reached North America. It followed the Migration Period and the Germ ...
, Arran became the property of the Norwegian crown, until formally absorbed by the kingdom of Scotland in the 13th century. The 19th-century " clearances" led to significant depopulation and the end of the Gaelic language and way of life. The economy and population have recovered in recent years, the main industry being tourism. However, the increase in tourism and people buying holiday homes on the Island, the second highest rate of such homes in the UK, has led to a shortage of affordable homes on the island. There is a diversity of wildlife, including three
species In biology, a species is the basic unit of classification and a taxonomic rank of an organism, as well as a unit of biodiversity. A species is often defined as the largest group of organisms in which any two individuals of the appropriat ...
of tree
endemic Endemism is the state of a species being found in a single defined geographic location, such as an island, state, nation, country or other defined zone; organisms that are indigenous to a place are not endemic to it if they are also found else ...
to the area. The island includes miles of coastal pathways, numerous hills and mountains, forested areas, rivers, small lochs and beaches. Its main beaches are at Brodick, Whiting Bay, Kildonan, Sannox and Blackwaterfoot.


Etymology

Most of the islands of Scotland have been occupied consecutively by speakers of at least four languages since the
Iron Age The Iron Age is the final epoch of the three-age division of the prehistory and protohistory of humanity. It was preceded by the Stone Age ( Paleolithic, Mesolithic, Neolithic) and the Bronze Age ( Chalcolithic). The concept has been mostly ...
. Therefore, the names of many islands have more than one possible origin, including Arran. Mac an Tàilleir (2003) says the name "is said to be unrelated" to those of Arranmore or the Aran Islands in Ireland, which come from Irish ''Árainn'' meaning "
kidney The kidneys are two reddish-brown bean-shaped organs found in vertebrates. They are located on the left and right in the retroperitoneal space, and in adult humans are about in length. They receive blood from the paired renal arteries; blo ...
-shaped", though he does not rule out this derivation. Unusually for a Scottish island, Haswell-Smith (2004) and William Cook Mackenzie (1931) offer a
Brythonic Brittonic or Brythonic may refer to: *Common Brittonic, or Brythonic, the Celtic language anciently spoken in Great Britain *Brittonic languages, a branch of the Celtic languages descended from Common Brittonic *Britons (Celtic people) The Br ...
derivation and a meaning of "high place" (c.f. Middle Welsh ''aran'') which at least corresponds with the geography – Arran is significantly loftier than all the land that immediately surrounds it along the shores of the Firth of Clyde. Any other Brythonic place-names that may have existed, save perhaps for Mayish, were later replaced on Arran as the Goidelic-speaking
Gaels The Gaels ( ; ga, Na Gaeil ; gd, Na Gàidheil ; gv, Ny Gaeil ) are an ethnolinguistic group native to Ireland, Scotland and the Isle of Man in the British Isles. They are associated with the Gaelic languages: a branch of the Celtic langua ...
spread from Ireland, via their adjacent kingdom of Dál Riata. During the
Viking Age The Viking Age () was the period during the Middle Ages when Norsemen known as Vikings undertook large-scale raiding, colonizing, conquest, and trading throughout Europe and reached North America. It followed the Migration Period and the Germ ...
it became, along with most Scottish islands, the property of the Norwegian crown, at which time it may have been known as "Herrey" or "Hersey". As a result of this Norse influence, many current place-names on Arran are of Viking origin.


Geography

The island lies in the
Firth of Clyde The Firth of Clyde is the mouth of the River Clyde. It is located on the west coast of Scotland and constitutes the deepest coastal waters in the British Isles (it is 164 metres deep at its deepest). The firth is sheltered from the Atlantic ...
between
Ayr Ayr (; sco, Ayr; gd, Inbhir Àir, "Mouth of the River Ayr") is a town situated on the southwest coast of Scotland. It is the administrative centre of the South Ayrshire council area and the historic county town of Ayrshire. With a population ...
and Ardrossan, and Kintyre. The profile of the north Arran hills as seen from the Ayrshire coast is referred to as the " Sleeping Warrior", due to its resemblance to a resting human figure. The highest of these hills is Goat Fell at . There are three other Corbetts, all in the north east: Caisteal Abhail,
Cìr Mhòr Cìr Mhòr (Scottish Gaelic, usually with definite article, ''A' Chìr Mhòr'') is a Corbett known as the Matterhorn of Arran. Its name means the "big comb", referring its resemblance to a cockscomb. It is separated from the island's highest pea ...
and Beinn Tarsuinn. Beinn Bharrain is the highest peak in the north west at . The largest glen on the island is Glen Iorsa to the west, whilst narrow Glen Sannox (
Gaelic Gaelic is an adjective that means "pertaining to the Gaels". As a noun it refers to the group of languages spoken by the Gaels, or to any one of the languages individually. Gaelic languages are spoken in Ireland, Scotland, the Isle of Man, an ...
: ''Gleann Shannaig'') and Glen Rosa (
Gaelic Gaelic is an adjective that means "pertaining to the Gaels". As a noun it refers to the group of languages spoken by the Gaels, or to any one of the languages individually. Gaelic languages are spoken in Ireland, Scotland, the Isle of Man, an ...
: ''Gleann Ròsa'') to the east surround Goat Fell. The terrain to the south is less mountainous, although a considerable portion of the interior lies above , and A' Chruach reaches at its summit. There are two other Marilyns in the south,
Tighvein Tighvein is a hill above Lamlash on the Isle of Arran in western Scotland. It is a Marilyn (hill), Marilyn (a hill with topographic prominence of at least 150m) and the highest point on the south-eastern section of the island, south-east of the p ...
and Mullach Mòr (Holy Island).


Villages

Arran has several villages, mainly around the shoreline. Brodick (
Old Norse Old Norse, Old Nordic, or Old Scandinavian, is a stage of development of North Germanic dialects before their final divergence into separate Nordic languages. Old Norse was spoken by inhabitants of Scandinavia and their overseas settlement ...
: 'broad bay') is the site of the ferry terminal, several hotels, and the majority of shops.
Brodick Castle Brodick Castle is a castle situated outside the port of Brodick on the Isle of Arran, an island in the Firth of Clyde, Scotland. It was previously a seat of the Dukes of Hamilton, but is now owned by the National Trust for Scotland. The castl ...
is a seat of the
Dukes of Hamilton Duke of Hamilton is a title in the Peerage of Scotland, created in April 1643. It is the senior dukedom in that peerage (except for the Dukedom of Rothesay held by the Sovereign's eldest son), and as such its holder is the premier peer of Sco ...
.
Lamlash Lamlash ( gd, An t-Eilean Àrd) is a village on the Isle of Arran, in the Firth of Clyde, Scotland. It lies south of the island's main settlement and ferry port Brodick, in a sheltered bay on the island's east coast, facing the Holy Isle. L ...
, however, is the largest village on the island and in 2001 had a population of 1,010 compared to 621 for Brodick. Other villages include
Lochranza Lochranza ( gd, Loch Raonasa) is a village located on the Isle of Arran in the Firth of Clyde, Scotland. The population, somewhat in decline, is around 200 people. Geography Lochranza is the northernmost of Arran's villages and is located in ...
and
Catacol Catacol ( gd, Catagal) is a small village on the Isle of Arran, Scotland. Geography Catacol is located on the north west side of the island, just a few miles along the coastal road from Lochranza that continues on to Blackwaterfoot. It derives ...
in the north, Corrie in the north east, Blackwaterfoot and Kilmory in the south west, Kildonan in the south and Whiting Bay in the south east.


Surrounding islands

Arran has three smaller satellite islands:
Holy Island Sacred space, sacred ground, sacred place, sacred temple, holy ground, or holy place refers to a location which is deemed to be sacred or hallowed. The sacredness of a natural feature may accrue through tradition or be granted through a bles ...
lies to the east opposite Lamlash,
Pladda Pladda ( gd, Pladaigh) is an uninhabited island off the south coast of the Isle of Arran in the Firth of Clyde The Firth of Clyde is the mouth of the River Clyde. It is located on the west coast of Scotland and constitutes the deepest co ...
is located off Arran's south coast and tiny
Hamilton Isle Hamilton may refer to: People * Hamilton (name), a common British surname and occasional given name, usually of Scottish origin, including a list of persons with the surname ** The Duke of Hamilton, the premier peer of Scotland ** Lord Hamilto ...
lies just off Clauchlands Point north of Holy Island. Eilean na h-Àirde Bàine off the south west of Arran at Corriecravie is a skerry connected to Arran at low tide. Other islands in the
Firth of Clyde The Firth of Clyde is the mouth of the River Clyde. It is located on the west coast of Scotland and constitutes the deepest coastal waters in the British Isles (it is 164 metres deep at its deepest). The firth is sheltered from the Atlantic ...
include Bute, Great Cumbrae and
Inchmarnock Inchmarnock ( gd, Innis Mheàrnaig) is an island at the northern end of the Sound of Bute in the Firth of Clyde, on the west coast of Scotland. The island is privately owned. Geography Inchmarnock lies to the west of the Isle of Bute at the no ...
.


Geology

The division between the "Highland" and "Lowland" areas of Arran is marked by the Highland Boundary Fault which runs north east to south west across Scotland.McKirdy ''et al.'' (2007) pp. 297- 301. Arran is a popular destination for
geologist A geologist is a scientist who studies the solid, liquid, and gaseous matter that constitutes Earth and other terrestrial planets, as well as the processes that shape them. Geologists usually study geology, earth science, or geophysics, althou ...
s, who come to see intrusive igneous landforms such as
sill Sill may refer to: * Sill (dock), a weir at the low water mark retaining water within a dock * Sill (geology), a subhorizontal sheet intrusion of molten or solidified magma * Sill (geostatistics) * Sill (river), a river in Austria * Sill plate, ...
s and dykes, and
sedimentary Sedimentary rocks are types of rock that are formed by the accumulation or deposition of mineral or organic particles at Earth's surface, followed by cementation. Sedimentation is the collective name for processes that cause these particles ...
and meta-sedimentary rocks ranging in age from
Precambrian The Precambrian (or Pre-Cambrian, sometimes abbreviated pꞒ, or Cryptozoic) is the earliest part of Earth's history, set before the current Phanerozoic Eon. The Precambrian is so named because it preceded the Cambrian, the first period of th ...
to
Mesozoic The Mesozoic Era ( ), also called the Age of Reptiles, the Age of Conifers, and colloquially as the Age of the Dinosaurs is the second-to-last era of Earth's geological history, lasting from about , comprising the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretace ...
. Most of the interior of the northern half of the island is taken up by a large
granite Granite () is a coarse-grained ( phaneritic) intrusive igneous rock composed mostly of quartz, alkali feldspar, and plagioclase. It forms from magma with a high content of silica and alkali metal oxides that slowly cools and solidifies un ...
batholith A batholith () is a large mass of intrusive igneous rock (also called plutonic rock), larger than in area, that forms from cooled magma deep in Earth's crust. Batholiths are almost always made mostly of felsic or intermediate rock types, s ...
that was created by substantial magmatic activity around 58 million years ago in the
Paleogene The Paleogene ( ; also spelled Palaeogene or Palæogene; informally Lower Tertiary or Early Tertiary) is a geologic period and system that spans 43 million years from the end of the Cretaceous Period million years ago ( Mya) to the beginning o ...
period. This comprises an outer ring of coarse granite and an inner core of finer grained granite, which was intruded later. This granite was intruded into the Late
Proterozoic The Proterozoic () is a geological eon spanning the time interval from 2500 to 538.8million years ago. It is the most recent part of the Precambrian "supereon". It is also the longest eon of the Earth's geologic time scale, and it is subdivided i ...
to Cambrian metasediments of the
Dalradian The Dalradian Supergroup (informally and traditionally the Dalradian) is a stratigraphic unit (a sequence of rock strata) in the lithostratigraphy of the Grampian Highlands of Scotland and in the north and west of Ireland. The diverse assembl ...
Supergroup. Other Paleogene igneous rocks on Arran include extensive
felsic In geology, felsic is a modifier describing igneous rocks that are relatively rich in elements that form feldspar and quartz.Marshak, Stephen, 2009, ''Essentials of Geology,'' W. W. Norton & Company, 3rd ed. It is contrasted with mafic rocks, wh ...
and composite sills in the south of the island, and the central ring complex, an eroded caldera system surrounded by a near-continuous ring of granitic rocks. Sedimentary rocks dominate the southern half of the island, especially
Old Old or OLD may refer to: Places *Old, Baranya, Hungary *Old, Northamptonshire, England * Old Street station, a railway and tube station in London (station code OLD) *OLD, IATA code for Old Town Municipal Airport and Seaplane Base, Old Town, M ...
and
New Red Sandstone The New Red Sandstone, chiefly in British geology, is composed of beds of red sandstone and associated rocks laid down throughout the Permian (300  million years ago) to the end of the Triassic (about 200 million years ago), that under ...
. Some of these sandstones contain fulgurites – pitted marks that may have been created by Permian lightning strikes. Large aeolian sand dunes are preserved in
Permian The Permian ( ) is a geologic period and stratigraphic system which spans 47 million years from the end of the Carboniferous Period million years ago (Mya), to the beginning of the Triassic Period 251.9 Mya. It is the last period of the Paleo ...
sandstones near Brodick, showing the presence of an ancient desert. Within the central complex are subsided blocks of Triassic sandstone and marl,
Jurassic The Jurassic ( ) is a geologic period and stratigraphic system that spanned from the end of the Triassic Period million years ago (Mya) to the beginning of the Cretaceous Period, approximately Mya. The Jurassic constitutes the middle period of ...
shale, and even a rare example of
Cretaceous The Cretaceous ( ) is a geological period that lasted from about 145 to 66 million years ago (Mya). It is the third and final period of the Mesozoic Era, as well as the longest. At around 79 million years, it is the longest geological period of ...
chalk. During the 19th century
baryte Baryte, barite or barytes ( or ) is a mineral consisting of barium sulfate ( Ba S O4). Baryte is generally white or colorless, and is the main source of the element barium. The ''baryte group'' consists of baryte, celestine (strontium sulfate), ...
s was mined near Sannox. First discovered in 1840, nearly 5,000 tons were produced between 1853 and 1862. The mine was closed by the 11th Duke of Hamilton on the grounds that it "spoiled the solemn grandeur of the scene" but was reopened after the First World War and operated until 1938 when the vein ran out. Visiting in 1787, the geologist
James Hutton James Hutton (; 3 June O.S.172614 June 1726 New Style. – 26 March 1797) was a Scottish geologist, agriculturalist, chemical manufacturer, naturalist and physician. Often referred to as the father of modern geology, he played a key role ...
found his first example of an
unconformity An unconformity is a buried erosional or non-depositional surface separating two rock masses or strata of different ages, indicating that sediment deposition was not continuous. In general, the older layer was exposed to erosion for an interval ...
to the north of Newton Point near
Lochranza Lochranza ( gd, Loch Raonasa) is a village located on the Isle of Arran in the Firth of Clyde, Scotland. The population, somewhat in decline, is around 200 people. Geography Lochranza is the northernmost of Arran's villages and is located in ...
, which provided evidence for his Plutonist theories of uniformitarianism and about the
age of the Earth The age of Earth is estimated to be 4.54 ± 0.05 billion years This age may represent the age of Earth's accretion, or core formation, or of the material from which Earth formed. This dating is based on evidence from radiometric age-dating of ...
. This spot is one of the most famous places in the study of geology. The site was not sufficiently convincing for him to publish his find until the discovery of a second site near
Jedburgh Jedburgh (; gd, Deadard; sco, Jeddart or ) is a town and former royal burgh in the Scottish Borders and the traditional county town of the historic county of Roxburghshire, the name of which was randomly chosen for Operation Jedburgh in ...
.
The
Pleistocene The Pleistocene ( , often referred to as the ''Ice age'') is the geological Epoch (geology), epoch that lasted from about 2,580,000 to 11,700 years ago, spanning the Earth's most recent period of repeated glaciations. Before a change was fina ...
glaciations almost entirely covered Scotland in ice, and Arran's highest peaks may have been nunataks at this time. After the last retreat of the ice at the close of the
Pleistocene The Pleistocene ( , often referred to as the ''Ice age'') is the geological Epoch (geology), epoch that lasted from about 2,580,000 to 11,700 years ago, spanning the Earth's most recent period of repeated glaciations. Before a change was fina ...
epoch
sea level Mean sea level (MSL, often shortened to sea level) is an average surface level of one or more among Earth's coastal bodies of water from which heights such as elevation may be measured. The global MSL is a type of vertical datuma standardis ...
s were up to lower than at present and it is likely that circa 14,000 BP the island was connected to mainland Scotland. Sea level changes and the isostatic rise of land makes charting post-glacial coastlines a complex task, but it is evident that the island is ringed by post glacial
raised beach A raised beach, coastal terrace,Pinter, N (2010): 'Coastal Terraces, Sealevel, and Active Tectonics' (educational exercise), from 2/04/2011/ref> or perched coastline is a relatively flat, horizontal or gently inclined surface of marine origin, ...
es. King's Cave on the south west coast is an example of an emergent landform on such a raised beach. This cave, which is over long and up to high, lies well above the present day sea level. There are tall sea cliffs to the north east including large rock slides under the heights of Torr Reamhar, Torr Meadhonach and at Scriden (''An Scriodan'') at the far north end of the island. The island also, have the highest concentration of
pitchstone Pitchstone is a dark coloured, glassy volcanic rock formed when felsic lava or magma cools quickly. Since it is a volcanic glass, pitchstone may have a conchoidal fracture. Pitchstones may also contain phenocrysts, in which case it is a form of v ...
sources in the United Kingdom, with over a 100 document sources of it on the island.


Climate

The influence of the
Atlantic Ocean The Atlantic Ocean is the second-largest of the world's five oceans, with an area of about . It covers approximately 20% of Earth's surface and about 29% of its water surface area. It is known to separate the " Old World" of Africa, Europe ...
and the
Gulf Stream The Gulf Stream, together with its northern extension the North Atlantic Drift, is a warm and swift Atlantic ocean current that originates in the Gulf of Mexico and flows through the Straits of Florida and up the eastern coastline of the Unit ...
create a mild oceanic climate. Temperatures are generally cool, averaging about in January and in July at sea level."Regional mapped climate averages"
Met Office. Retrieved 4 September 2009.
The southern half of the island, being less mountainous, has a more favourable climate than the north, and the east coast is more sheltered from the prevailing winds than the west and south. Snow seldom lies at sea level and frosts are less frequent than on the mainland. As in most islands of the west coast of Scotland, annual rainfall is generally high at between in the south and west and in the north and east. The mountains are wetter still with the summits receiving over annually. May and June are the sunniest months, with upwards of 200 hours of bright sunshine being recorded on average.


History


Prehistory

Arran has a particular concentration of early
Neolithic The Neolithic period, or New Stone Age, is an Old World archaeological period and the final division of the Stone Age. It saw the Neolithic Revolution, a wide-ranging set of developments that appear to have arisen independently in several pa ...
Clyde Cairns, a form of Gallery grave. The typical style of these is a rectangular or trapezoidal stone and earth mound that encloses a chamber lined with larger stone slabs. Pottery and bone fragments found inside them suggest they were used for interment and some have forecourts, which may have been an area for public display or ritual. There are two good examples in Monamore Glen west of the village of Lamlash, and similar structures called the
Giants' Graves Giants' tomb (Italian: '' Tomba dei giganti'', Sardinian: ''Tumba de zigantes'' / ''gigantis'') is the name given by local people and archaeologists to a type of Sardinian megalithic gallery grave built during the Bronze Age by the Nuragic civil ...
above Whiting Bay. There are numerous standing stones dating from prehistoric times, including six stone circles on Machrie Moor (Gaelic: ''Am Machaire'').
Pitchstone Pitchstone is a dark coloured, glassy volcanic rock formed when felsic lava or magma cools quickly. Since it is a volcanic glass, pitchstone may have a conchoidal fracture. Pitchstones may also contain phenocrysts, in which case it is a form of v ...
deposits on the island were used locally for making various items in the
Mesolithic The Mesolithic ( Greek: μέσος, ''mesos'' 'middle' + λίθος, ''lithos'' 'stone') or Middle Stone Age is the Old World archaeological period between the Upper Paleolithic and the Neolithic. The term Epipaleolithic is often used synonymo ...
era. In the
Neolithic The Neolithic period, or New Stone Age, is an Old World archaeological period and the final division of the Stone Age. It saw the Neolithic Revolution, a wide-ranging set of developments that appear to have arisen independently in several pa ...
and the Early Bronze Age pitchstone from the Isle of Arran or items made from it were transported around Britain. It is thought to be the source of most, it not all, pitchstone artefacts found in the United Kingdom. There are more than 100 document sources of the material on the island that prehistoric people could have collected/mined from. Several
Bronze Age The Bronze Age is a historic period, lasting approximately from 3300 BC to 1200 BC, characterized by the use of bronze, the presence of writing in some areas, and other early features of urban civilization. The Bronze Age is the second pri ...
sites have been excavated, including Ossian's Mound near Clachaig and a cairn near Blackwaterfoot that produced a bronze dagger and a gold fillet. Torr a' Chaisteal Dun in the south west near Sliddery is the ruin of an
Iron Age The Iron Age is the final epoch of the three-age division of the prehistory and protohistory of humanity. It was preceded by the Stone Age ( Paleolithic, Mesolithic, Neolithic) and the Bronze Age ( Chalcolithic). The concept has been mostly ...
fortified structure dating from about AD 200. The original walls would have been or more thick and enclosed a circular area about in diameter. In 2019, a
Lidar Lidar (, also LIDAR, or LiDAR; sometimes LADAR) is a method for determining ranges (variable distance) by targeting an object or a surface with a laser and measuring the time for the reflected light to return to the receiver. It can also be ...
survey reveals 1,000 ancient sites in Arran including a
cursus 250px, Stonehenge Cursus, Wiltshire 250px, Dorset Cursus terminal on Thickthorn Down, Dorset Cursuses are monumental Neolithic structures resembling ditches or trenches in the islands of Great Britain and Ireland. Relics found within them in ...
.


Gaels, Vikings and Middle Ages

An ancient Irish poem called ''Agalllamh na Senorach'', first recorded in the 13th century, describes the attractions of the island. The monastery of ''Aileach'' founded by St. Brendan in the 6th century may have been on Arran and Molaise of Leighlin, St. Molaise was also active, with Holy Isle being a centre of Brendan's activities. The caves below Keil Point (
Gaelic Gaelic is an adjective that means "pertaining to the Gaels". As a noun it refers to the group of languages spoken by the Gaels, or to any one of the languages individually. Gaelic languages are spoken in Ireland, Scotland, the Isle of Man, an ...
: ''Rubha na Cille'') contain a slab which may have been an ancient altar. This stone has two petrosomatoglyphs on it, the prints of two right feet, said to be of Saint Columba.Beare (1996) p. 26. In the 11th century Arran became part of the Sodor (Old Norse: 'Suðr-eyjar'), or South Isles of the Kingdom of Mann and the Isles, but on the death of Godred Crovan in 1095 all the isles came under the direct rule of Magnus III of Norway. Lǫgmaðr Guðrøðarson, Lagman (1103–1104) restored local rule. After the death of Somerled in 1164, Arran and Bute were ruled by his son Angus. In 1237, the Scottish isles broke away completely from the Isle of Man and became an independent kingdom. After the indecisive Battle of Largs between the kingdoms of Norway and Scotland in 1263, Haakon IV of Norway, Haakon Haakonsson, King of Norway reclaimed Norwegian lordship over the "provinces" of the west. Arriving at Isle of Mull, Mull, he rewarded a number of his Norse-Gaelic vassals with grants of lands. Bute was given to Ruadhri of Bute, Ruadhri and Arran to Murchad MacSween. Following Haakon's death later that year Norway ceded the islands of western Scotland to the Scottish crown in 1266 by the Treaty of Perth. A substantial Viking grave has been discovered near King's Cross south of Lamlash, containing whalebone, iron rivets and nails, fragments of bronze and a 9th-century bronze coin, and another grave of similar date nearby yielded a sword and shield.Johnstone, Rev. James (1882
''The Norwegian Account of Haco's Expedition Against Scotland; A.D. MCCLXIII''
Chapter 20. William Brown, Edinburgh/Project Gutenberg. Originally printed 1782. Retrieved 15 September 2013.
Arran was also part of the medieval Bishop of Sodor and Man, Bishopric of Sodor and Man. On the opposite side of the island near Blackwaterfoot is the King's Cave (see above), where Robert the Bruce is said to have taken shelter in the 14th century. Bruce returned to the island in 1326, having earlier granted lands to Fergus MacLouis for assistance rendered during his time of concealment there. Brodick Castle played a prominent part in the island's medieval history. Probably dating from the 13th century, it was captured by English forces during the Wars of Scottish Independence, Wars of Independence before being taken back by Scottish troops in 1307. It was badly damaged by action from English ships in 1406 and sustained an attack by John of Islay, Earl of Ross, John of Islay, the Lord of the Isles in 1455. Originally a seat of the Walter Bailloch, Clan Stewart of Menteith it passed to the Clan Boyd, Boyd family in the 15th century. For a short time during the reign of King James V in the 16th century, the Isle of Arran was under the regency of Robert Maxwell, 5th Lord Maxwell.


Modern era

At the commencement of the Early modern period James Hamilton, 1st Earl of Arran, James, 2nd Lord Hamilton became a privy Council of Scotland, privy counsellor to his first cousin, James IV of Scotland and helped to arrange his marriage to Princess Margaret Tudor of England. As a reward he was created Earl of Arran in 1503. The local economy for much of this period was based on the run rig system, the basic crops being oats, barley and potatoes. The population slowly grew to about 6,500. In the early 19th century Alexander Douglas-Hamilton, 10th Duke of Hamilton, Alexander, 10th Duke of Hamilton (1767–1852) embarked on a programme of clearances that had a devastating effect on the island's population. These "improvements" typically led to land that had been rented out to as many as 27 families being converted into a single farm. In some cases, land was promised in Canada for each adult emigrant male. In April 1829, for example, 86 islanders boarded the brig ''Caledonia'' for the two-month journey, half their fares being paid for by the Duke. However, on arrival in Quebec only was made available to the heads of extended families. Whole villages were removed and the Gaelic culture of the island devastated. The writer James Hogg wrote, "Ah! Wae's [Woe is] me. I hear the Duke of Hamilton's crofters are a'gaun away, man and mother's son, frae the Isle o' Arran. Pity on us!". A memorial to this has been constructed on the shore at Lamlash, paid for by a Canadian descendant of the emigrants. Goat Fell, Goatfell was the scene of the death of English tourist Edwin Rose who was allegedly murdered by John Watson Laurie in 1889 on the mountain. Laurie was sentenced to death, later commuted to a life sentence and spent the rest of his life in prison. On 10 August 1941 a RAF Preproduction B-24, Consolidated B-24 Liberator LB-30A AM261 was flying from RAF Heathfield in Ayrshire to Gander International Airport in Newfoundland. However, the B-24 crashed into the hillside of Mullach Buidhe north of Goat Fell, killing all 22 passengers and crew. Arran's resident population was 4,629 in 2011, a decline of just over 8 per cent from the 5,045 recorded in 2001, against a background of Scottish island populations as a whole growing by 4 per cent to 103,702 over the same period.


Gaelic

Gaelic was still spoken widely on Arran at the beginning of the 20th century. The 1901 Census reported 25–49 per cent Gaelic speakers on the eastern side of the island and 50–74 per cent on the western side of the island. By 1921 the proportion for the whole island had dropped to less than 25 per cent.Mac an Tàilleir, Iain (2004
''1901–2001 Gaelic in the Census''
(PowerPoint ) Linguae Celticae. Retrieved 1 June 2008.
However, Nils Holmer quotes the Féillire (a Gaelic almanack) reporting 4,532 inhabitants on the island in 1931 with 605 Gaelic speakers, showing that Gaelic had declined to about 13 per cent of the population.Holmer (1957) p. vii. It continued to decline until the last native speakers of Arran Gaelic died in the 1990s. Current Gaelic speakers on Arran originate from other areas in Scotland. In 2011, 2.0 per cent of Arran residents aged three and over could speak Gaelic. Arran Gaelic is reasonably well documented. Holmer carried out field work on the island in 1938, reporting Gaelic being spoken by "a fair number of old inhabitants". He interviewed 53 informants from various locations and his description of ''The Gaelic of Arran'' was published in 1957 and runs to 211 pages of phonological, grammatical and lexical information. The ''Survey of the Gaelic Dialects of Scotland'', which collected Gaelic dialect data in Scotland between 1950 and 1963, also interviewed five native speakers of Arran Gaelic. The Arran dialect falls firmly into the southern group of Gaelic dialects (referred to as the "peripheral" dialects in Celtic studies) and thus shows: *a glottal stop replacing an Old Irish Hiatus (linguistics), hiatus, e.g. ''rathad'' 'road' (normally ) *the dropping of /h/ between vowels e.g. ''athair'' 'father' (normally ) *the preservation of a long l, n and r, e.g. ''fann'' 'weak' (normally with diphthongisation). The most unusual feature of Arran Gaelic is the semivowel, glide after labial consonant, labials before a front vowel, e.g. ''math'' 'good' (normally ). Mac an Tàilleir notes that the island has a poetic name ''Arainn nan Aighean Iomadh'' – "Arran of the many stags" and that a native of the island or ''Arainneach'' is also nicknamed a ''coinean mòr'' in Gaelic, meaning "big rabbit". Locally, ''Arainn'' was pronounced .


Local government

From the 17th to the late 20th century, Arran was part of the County of Bute. After the 1975 Local Government (Scotland) Act 1973, reorganisation of local government Arran became part of the district of Cunninghame in Strathclyde Region. This two-tier system of local government lasted until 1996 when the Local Government etc. (Scotland) Act 1994 came into effect, abolishing the regions and districts and replacing them with 32 subdivisions of Scotland, council areas. Arran is now in the
North Ayrshire North Ayrshire ( gd, Siorrachd Àir a Tuath, ) is one of 32 council areas in Scotland. The council area borders Inverclyde to the north, Renfrewshire and East Renfrewshire to the northeast, and East Ayrshire and South Ayrshire to the east a ...
council area, along with some of the other constituent islands of the County of Bute. For some statistical purposes Arran is within the registration county of County of Bute, Bute, and for ceremonial purposes it forms part of the Lieutenancy areas of Scotland, lieutenancy area of Ayrshire and Arran. In the House of Commons, since 2005 it has been part of North Ayrshire and Arran (UK Parliament constituency), the Ayrshire North and Arran constituency, represented since 2015 by Patricia Gibson of the Scottish National Party, SNP. It is marginal between the SNP and the Scottish Conservatives. It had been part of Cunninghame North (UK Parliament constituency), Cunninghame North from 1983 to 2005, and of Bute and North Ayrshire (UK Parliament constituency), Ayrshire North and Bute from 1918 to 1983. In the Scottish Parliament, Arran is part of the constituency of Cunninghame North (Scottish Parliament constituency), Cunninghame North, currently represented by Kenneth Gibson (Scottish politician), Kenneth Gibson of the Scottish National Party (SNP). The Labour Party (UK), Labour Party held the seat until 2007, when the SNP gained it by 48 votes, making it the most marginal seat in Holyrood until 2011, when the SNP increased its majority to 6,117 over Labour.


Health services

NHS Ayrshire and Arran is responsible for the provision of health services for the island. Arran War Memorial Hospital is a 17-bed acute hospital at Lamlash. The Arran Medical Group provides primary-care services and supports the hospital. The practice is based at Brodick Health Centre and has three base surgeries and four branch surgeries.


Transport

Arran is connected to the Scottish mainland by two ferry routes operated by Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac). The Brodick to Ardrossan service is provided by , with additional summer sailings by . A service to
Lochranza Lochranza ( gd, Loch Raonasa) is a village located on the Isle of Arran in the Firth of Clyde, Scotland. The population, somewhat in decline, is around 200 people. Geography Lochranza is the northernmost of Arran's villages and is located in ...
is provided by from Claonaig in summer and from East Loch Tarbert, Argyll, Tarbert in winter. Summer day trips are also available on board the paddle steamer , and a summer service operated by a local resident connects Lamlash to the neighbouring Holy Island. Brodick Ferry Terminal underwent £22 million of work to improve connections to the island. The new terminal includes better passenger facilities, increased passenger and freight capacity, and a new pier, all of which were set to open in August 2017 but finally opened on 20 March 2018, due to various construction issues. The island is due to be served by a new £45-million dual-fuelled ferry, , which will have capacity for 1,000 passengers. This was due in 2018 but has also been delayed due to various construction issues and is now expected to be delivered in late 2021. There are three through roads on the island. The coast road circumnavigates the island. In 2007, a stretch of this road, previously designated as A841, was de-classified as a C road. Travelling south from Whiting Bay, the C147 goes round the south coast continuing north up the west coast of the island to Lochranza. At this point the road becomes the A841 down the east coast back to Whiting Bay. At one point the coast road ventures inland to climb the pass at the Boguillie between Creag Ghlas Laggan and Caisteal Abhail, located between Sannox and Lochranza. The other two roads run across from the east to the west side of the island. The main cross-island road is the B880 from Brodick to Blackwaterfoot, called "The String", which climbs over Gleann an t-Suidhe. About from Brodick, a minor road branches off to the right to Machrie. The single-track road "The Ross" runs from Lamlash to Lagg and Sliddery via Glen Scorodale (
Gaelic Gaelic is an adjective that means "pertaining to the Gaels". As a noun it refers to the group of languages spoken by the Gaels, or to any one of the languages individually. Gaelic languages are spoken in Ireland, Scotland, the Isle of Man, an ...
: ''Gleann Sgoradail''). The island can be explored using a public bus service operated by Stagecoach West Scotland, Stagecoach. The bus service is subsidised by the Strathclyde Partnership for Transport. The main bus terminal on the island is located in Brodick at the Ferry Terminal. The newly upgraded facility offers routes to all parts of the island.


Economy


Tourism

The main industry on the island is tourism, with outdoor activities such as hiking, walking, cycling and wildlife watching being especially popular. Popular walking routes include climbing to the summit of Goat Fell, and the Arran Coastal Way, a 107 kilometre trail that goes around the coastline the island. The Arran Coastal Way was designated as one of Scotland's Great Trails by NatureScot, Scottish Natural Heritage in June 2017. One of Arran's greatest attractions for tourists is
Brodick Castle Brodick Castle is a castle situated outside the port of Brodick on the Isle of Arran, an island in the Firth of Clyde, Scotland. It was previously a seat of the Dukes of Hamilton, but is now owned by the National Trust for Scotland. The castl ...
, owned by the National Trust for Scotland. The Auchrannie Resort, which contains two hotels, three restaurants, two leisure complexes and an adventure company, is one of biggest employers on the island. Local businesses include the Arran Single Malt, Arran Distillery, which was opened in 1995 in
Lochranza Lochranza ( gd, Loch Raonasa) is a village located on the Isle of Arran in the Firth of Clyde, Scotland. The population, somewhat in decline, is around 200 people. Geography Lochranza is the northernmost of Arran's villages and is located in ...
. This is open for tours and contains a shop and cafe. A second visitor centre has been announced for the south of the island, due to open in 2019. The island has a number of golf courses including the 12 hole Shiskine Links (golf), links course which was founded in 1896. The village of Lagg, Arran, Lagg, at the southern tip of Arran, has a Naturism, nudist beach. Known as Cleat's Shore, it has been described as one of the quietest nudist facilities in the world.


Other industries

Farming and forestry are other important industries. Plans for 2008 for a large Atlantic Salmon, salmon farm holding 800,000 or more fish in Lamlash Bay have been criticised by the Community of Arran Seabed Trust. They fear the facility could jeopardise Scotland's first marine No Take Zone, which was announced in September 2008. The Arran Brewery is a microbrewery founded in March 2000 in Cladach, near Brodick. It makes eight regular cask ale, cask and filtered beer, bottled beers. The wheat beer, Arran Blonde (5.0% Alcohol by volume, abv) is the most popular; others include Arran Dark and Arran Sunset, with a seasonal Fireside Ale brewed in winter. The brewery is open for tours and tastings. The business went into liquidation in May 2008, but was then sold to Marketing Management Services International Ltd in June 2008. It is now back in production and the beers widely available in Scotland, including certain Aldi stores, yet cutting staff in 2017 and 2018. Other businesses include Arran Aromatics, which produces a range of luxury toiletries, perfumes and candles, Arran Dairies, Arran Cheese Shop, James's Chocolates, Wooleys of Arran and Arran Energy who produce biomass wood fuels from island-grown timber.


Popular Culture

The island features in ''The Scottish Chiefs''. The Scottish Gaelic dialect of Arran died out when the last speaker Donald Craig died in the 1970s. However, there is now a Gaelic House in Brodick, set up at the end of the 1990s.
Brodick Castle Brodick Castle is a castle situated outside the port of Brodick on the Isle of Arran, an island in the Firth of Clyde, Scotland. It was previously a seat of the Dukes of Hamilton, but is now owned by the National Trust for Scotland. The castl ...
features on the Royal Bank of Scotland £20 note and Lochranza Castle was used as the model for the castle in ''The Adventures of Tintin'', volume seven, ''The Black Island''. Arran has one newspaper, ''The Arran Banner''. It was listed in the ''Guinness Book of Records'' in November 1984 as the "local newspaper which achieves the closest to a saturation circulation in its area". The entry reads: "''The Arran Banner'', founded in 1974, has a readership of more than 97 per cent in Britain's seventh largest off-shore island." There is also an online monthly publication called ''Voice for Arran'', which mainly publishes articles contributed by community members. In 2010 an "Isle of Arran" version of the game Monopoly (game), Monopoly was launched. The knitting style used to create Aran sweaters is often mistakenly associated with the Isle of Arran rather than the Irish Aran Islands. Arran landscapes have been the inspiration for numerous famous artists including Craigie Aitchison (painter), Cragie Aitchison, Joan Eardley, Jessie M. King, Jessie M King , and Samuel Peploe.


Nature and conservation

Red deer are numerous on the northern hills, and there are populations of red squirrel, European badger, badger, European otter, otter, Vipera berus, adder and Viviparous lizard, common lizard. Offshore there are harbour porpoises, basking sharks and various species of dolphin."Arran Wildlife"
arranwildlife.co.uk. Retrieved 18 July 2009.


Flora

The island has three
endemic Endemism is the state of a species being found in a single defined geographic location, such as an island, state, nation, country or other defined zone; organisms that are indigenous to a place are not endemic to it if they are also found else ...
species of tree, the Arran whitebeams. These trees are the Scottish or Arran whitebeam (''Sorbus arranensis''), the bastard mountain ash or cut-leaved whitebeam (''Sorbus pseudofennica'') and the Catacol whitebeam (''Sorbus pseudomeinichii''). If rarity is measured by numbers alone they are amongst the most endangered tree species in the world. The trees grow in Glen Diomhan off Glen Catacol which was formerly a National nature reserve (Scotland), National Nature Reserve. Although this designation was removed in 2011 the area continues to form part of a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), and is monitored by staff from NatureScot. Only 236 ''Sorbus pseudofennica'' and 283 ''Sorbus arranensis'' were recorded as mature trees in 1980. They are typically trees of the mountain slopes, close to the tree line. However, they will grow at lower altitudes, and are being preserved within Brodick Country Park.


Birds

Over 250 species of bird have been recorded on Arran, including black guillemot, Common eider, eider, peregrine falcon, golden eagle, short-eared owl, red-breasted merganser and black-throated diver. In 1981 there were 28 rock ptarmigan, ptarmigan on Arran, but in 2009 it was reported that extensive surveys had been unable to record any. However, the following year a group of 5 was reported. Similarly, the red-billed chough no longer breeds on the island. 108 km2 of Arran's upland areas is designated a Special Protection Area under the Natura 2000 programme due to its importance for breeding hen harriers.


Marine conservation

The north of Lamlash Bay became a Marine Protected Area and No Take Zone under the Marine (Scotland) Act 2010, which means no fish or shellfish may be taken in the area. In 2014 the Scottish Government created Scotland's first Marine Conservation Order in order to protect delicate maerl beds off south Arran, after fishermen breached a voluntary agreement not to trawling, trawl in the vicinity. The sea surrounding the south of the island is now recognised as one of 31 of Marine Protected Areas in Scotland, Mature Conservation Marine Protected Areas in Scotland. The designation is in place to the maerl beds, as well as other features including: burrowed muds; kelp, seaweed and seagrass beds; and ocean quahog.


North Arran National Scenic Area

The northern part of the island is designated a National scenic area (Scotland), national scenic area (NSA), one of 40 such areas in Scotland which are defined so as to identify areas of exceptional scenery and to ensure its protection by restricting certain forms of development. The North Arran NSA covers 27,304 hectares, ha in total, consisting of 20,360 ha of land and a further 6,943 ha of the surrounding sea. It covers all of the island north of Brodick and Machrie Bay, as well as the main group of hills surrounding Goat Fell.


Notable residents

*Kenneth Calman, Sir Kenneth Calman (born 1941) – Chancellor of the University of Glasgow, former Scottish and UK Chief Medical Officer and author of the Calman Commission on Scottish devolution"Sir Kenneth Calman – biography"
BMA. Retrieved 20 June 2009.
*Flora Drummond (1878–1949) – suffragette *Lieut. Col. James Fullarton, C. B., K. H. (1782–1834) – fought at the Battle of Waterloo. *Daniel MacMillan, Daniel Macmillan (1813–1857) – He and his brother Alexander Macmillan (publisher), Alexander founded Macmillan Publishers in 1843. His grandson was Prime Minister of the United Kingdom, Prime Minister Harold Macmillan. *Jack McConnell (born 1960) – First Minister of Scotland (2001–2007) *Robert McLellan (1907–1985) – playwright and poet in Scots language, Scots *Alison Prince (1931–2019) – children's writer *J. M. Robertson (1856–1933) – politician and journalist *Agnes Miller Parker (1895–1980) – engraver and illustrator, Glasgow School of Art *


See also

*Fauna of Scotland *Flora of Scotland *Geology of Scotland *Hutton's Unconformity *List of islands of Scotland *Clan Douglas


References

;Notes ;Footnotes ;General references *Beare, Beryl (1996) ''Scotland. Myths & Legends''. Avonmouth. Parragon. *Coventry, Martin (2008) ''Castles of the Clans''. Musselburgh. Goblinshead. *Downie, R. Angus (1933) ''All About Arran''. Glasgow. Blackie and Son. *Hall, Ken (2001) ''The Isle of Arran''. Catrine. Stenlake Publishing. *Haswell-Smith, Hamish (2004) ''The Scottish Islands''. Edinburgh. Canongate. *Holmer, N. (1957) ''The Gaelic of Arran''. Dublin. Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies. *Johnstone, Scott; Brown, Hamish; and Bennet, Donald (1990) ''The Corbetts and Other Scottish Hills''. Edinburgh. Scottish Mountaineering Trust. *Keay, J., and Keay, J. (1994) ''Collins Encyclopaedia of Scotland''. London. HarperCollins. *McKirdy, Alan Gordon, John & Crofts, Roger (2007) ''Land of Mountain and Flood: The Geology and Landforms of Scotland''. Edinburgh. Birlinn. *W.H. Murray, Murray, W.H. (1973) ''The Islands of Western Scotland.'' London. Eyre Methuen. SBN 413303802 * Noble, Gordon (2006) ''Neolithic Scotland: Timber, Stone, Earth and Fire.'' Edinburgh University Press. *Ó Dochartaigh, C. (1997) ''Survey of the Gaelic Dialects of Scotland''. Dublin. Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies. *James Taylor (minister), Taylor, J. (1887) ''Great Historic Families of Scotland vol 2''. London. J.S. Virtue & Co.


External links


Information on the Arran Coastal Way long distance pathVisitor's guide with news, events, transport and accommodation.Arran seen from space, NASAThe Isle of Arran Heritage MuseumThe Arran Banner
Arran's local newspaper {{DEFAULTSORT:Arran, Isle of Isle of Arran, Islands of North Ayrshire Islands of the Clyde Buteshire Volcanoes of Scotland Paleocene volcanism Extinct volcanoes Highland Boundary Fault Firth of Clyde National scenic areas of Scotland Nature Conservation Marine Protected Areas of Scotland