Groote Eylandt
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Groote Eylandt ( Anindilyakwa: ''Ayangkidarrba''; meaning "island" ) is the largest island in the
Gulf of Carpentaria The Gulf of Carpentaria is a sea off the northern coast of Australia. It is enclosed on three sides by northern Australia and bounded on the north by the eastern Arafura Sea, which separates Australia and New Guinea. The northern boundary ...
and the fourth largest island in Australia. It was named by the explorer
Abel Tasman Abel Janszoon Tasman (; 160310 October 1659) was a Dutch sea explorer, seafarer and exploration, explorer, best known for his voyages of 1642 and 1644 in the service of the Dutch East India Company (VOC). He was the first European to reach New ...
in 1644 and is Dutch for "large island" in archaic spelling. The modern Dutch spelling is ''Groot Eiland''. The original inhabitants of Groote Eylandt are the Anindilyakwa people (also known as Warnindhilyagwa), an Aboriginal Australian people, who speak the Anindilyakwa language (also known as Amamalya Ayakwa). They consist of 14 clan groups which make up the two moieties on the island. The clans maintain their traditions and have strong ties with the people in the community of Numbulwar and on Bickerton Island. The island's population was 2,811 in the 2016 census. There are four communities on Groote Eylandt. The mining company GEMCO established the township of Alyangula for its workers. The three main Aboriginal communities are Angurugu and Umbakumba, and Milyakburra on Bickerton Island. There are also a number of outstations on the island. The Anindilyakwa Land Council is one of four land councils in the Northern Territory. It is a representative body with statutory authority under the '' Aboriginal Land Rights (Northern Territory) Act 1976'' and has responsibilities under the '' Native Title Act 1993'' and the ''Pastoral Land Act 1992''.


Geography

Groote Eylandt lies about offshore from the
Northern Territory The Northern Territory (abbreviated as NT; known formally as the Northern Territory of Australia and informally as the Territory) is an states and territories of Australia, Australian internal territory in the central and central-northern regi ...
mainland (i.e. the east coast of
Arnhem Land Arnhem Land is a historical region of the Northern Territory of Australia. It is located in the north-eastern corner of the territory and is around from the territorial capital, Darwin, Northern Territory, Darwin. In 1623, Dutch East India Compa ...
), about from Darwin, opposite Blue Mud Bay. The island measures about from east to west and from north to south; its area is . It is generally quite low-lying, with an average height above sea level of , although Central Hill reaches an elevation of .


Politics and administration


Electorates

Groote Eylandt is part of the federal electorate of Lingiari, for which the current member is Marion Scrymgour, who replaced the inaugural member Warren Snowdon at the 2022 Australian federal election. The island is within the Northern Territory electoral division of Arnhem. The current member for Arnhem is Labor Party member Selena Uibo, whose mother is a Nunggubuyu and Anindilyakwa woman.


Local government

With Bickerton Island and a few smaller satellite islands, Groote Eylandt forms Anindilyakwa Ward of East Arnhem Region. It contains the communities of Angurugu, Alyangula, Umbakumba, Yadagba District, Uburamudja District and Sandy Hill (Groote Eylandt) and Milyakburra District ( Bickerton Island). Outside the local government, subdivision is the mining company GEMCO town of Alyangula, an unincorporated territory within the Northern Region of Northern Territory.


Environment

The whole of Groote Eylandt and its surrounding waters lie within the Anindilyakwa Indigenous Protected Area. BirdLife International has classified an unnamed islet off the north-eastern coast as an important bird area because of its global importance as a roseate tern breeding site. Groote Eylandt has a variety of habitats: dense stands on monsoon forests rising behind coastal sand dunes, alternating with
mangrove A mangrove is a shrub or tree that grows mainly in coastal saline water, saline or brackish water. Mangroves grow in an equatorial climate, typically along coastlines and tidal rivers. They have particular adaptations to take in extra oxygen a ...
and mudflats. Sandstone outcrops and laterite provide excellent niches for shellfish.


Fauna

The island hosts 27 species of native mammal, making it the third most mammal diverse Australian island after Melville Island and
Tasmania Tasmania (; palawa kani: ''Lutruwita'') is an island States and territories of Australia, state of Australia. It is located to the south of the Mainland Australia, Australian mainland, and is separated from it by the Bass Strait. The sta ...
.


Fishing

Until recently, the island had been open to the public only with permission, and the local Aboriginal Land Council did not encourage tourism. There is now a resort-style hotel on the island, and visitors are welcome. The island is becoming renowned for its fine Aboriginal rock art sites, arts and crafts and outstanding sport-fishing, including sailfish, marlin, tuna,
Spanish mackerel Scomberomorini is a tribe of ray-finned, saltwater, bony fishes that is commonly known as Spanish mackerels, seerfishes, or seer fish. This tribe is a subset of the mackerel family (Scombridae), which it shares with four sister tribes, the tu ...
,
giant trevally The giant trevally (''Caranx ignobilis''), also known as the lowly trevally, barrier trevally, ronin jack, giant kingfish, or ''ulua'', is a species of large ocean, marine fish classified in the jack Family (biology), family, Carangidae. The gian ...
, queenfish, and coral trout.


History


Traditional owners

The traditional owners of Groote Eylandt, the Anindilyakwa people, have 14 clan groups, which make up the two moieties on Groote Eylandt. The Anindilyakwa people have inhabited the island for thousands of years. The clans maintain their traditions and have strong ties with the people in the community of Numbulwar and on Bickerton Island. In 1856, the Jurambunga tribe, a local aboriginal conglomerate would regularly pass the island.


Macassan traders

There had been regular contact between local Aboriginal people and Macassan traders who would visit the area searching for trepang from around the early to mid-1700s. They introduced culinary delights such as tamarinds, chilli and beer. The trade continued until the Australian Government introduced the White Australia Policy in 1906. There is still evidence of the Macassans, such as the wild tamarind trees, which the traders introduced to the area. Some Groote Eylandt settlements, such as Umbakumba, can trace their names back to Macassan origin.Van Egmond, M-E. (2012). "Enindhilyakwa phonology, morphosyntax and genetic position." Doctoral thesis. University of Sydney. pp. 314–70.


Machado-Joseph Disease (MJD)

The first recorded European sighting of Groote Eylandt was in 1623, by the Dutch ship ''Arnhem'', under Willem van Coolsteerdt. However, the relative prevalence of the hereditary Machado-Joseph Disease (MJD) in the Groote Eylandt community (a condition otherwise mainly found in the
Azores The Azores ( , , ; , ), officially the Autonomous Region of the Azores (), is one of the two autonomous regions of Portugal (along with Madeira). It is an archipelago composed of nine volcanic islands in the Macaronesia region of the North Atl ...
) was previously suggested as evidence of early contact with Portuguese sailors. (Contact with Chinese traders has also been suggested as a cause.) Recent genetic studies showed that the Groote Eylandt families with MJD shared a haplogroup with some families from Taiwanese, Indian, and Japanese families.


European Colonisation


Church Mission Society

The first European settlement on the island was a Christian mission established by the Church Missionary Society at Emerald River in 1921. In 1943, after a cyclone swept through the mission, CMS decided to move the settlement south of the Angurugu River. The local Anindilyakwa people called the chosen location "Mungwardinamanja". However, as it was difficult for the European missionaries to pronounce, the local Anindilyakwa men guiding them chose the name of the Angurugu River mouth "Angurrkwa", which was later Anglicised to Angurugu.


Umbakumba

Mr Fred H. Gray, a
pearl A pearl is a hard, glistening object produced within the soft tissue (specifically the mantle (mollusc), mantle) of a living Exoskeleton, shelled mollusk or another animal, such as fossil conulariids. Just like the shell of a mollusk, a pear ...
and trepang trader, established the Umbakumba Native Settlement on an old Macassan trading post in 1938. The place-name itself ''Umbakumba'' comes from the Malay word ''ombak-ombak'', which means ‘lapping of waves’. He used the settlement as a base for trepanging and employed many of the Aboriginal locals during the 20s and 30s.


World War II

During
World War II World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
, in 1943, the mission moved to Angurugu, as the
Royal Australian Air Force The Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) is the principal Air force, aerial warfare force of Australia, a part of the Australian Defence Force (ADF) along with the Royal Australian Navy and the Australian Army. Constitutionally the Governor-Gener ...
(RAAF) required the use of the mission's airstrip: the ruins of the RAAF base are still evident today.
Qantas Qantas ( ), formally Qantas Airways Limited, is the flag carrier of Australia, and the largest airline by fleet size, international flights, and international destinations in Australia and List of largest airlines in Oceania, Oceania. A foundi ...
used the island as a flying boat base. Following the Aboriginal Land Rights (Northern Territory) Act 1976, Groote Eylandt was converted to Aboriginal freehold title land. In 1979, control of the island was transferred to the local Aboriginal Town Council.


Manganese mining


Groote Eylandt Mining Company

The majority of Australia's
manganese Manganese is a chemical element; it has Symbol (chemistry), symbol Mn and atomic number 25. It is a hard, brittle, silvery metal, often found in minerals in combination with iron. Manganese was first isolated in the 1770s. It is a transition m ...
reserves are located on the western side of Groote Eylandt and the deposits there comprise oolitic and pisolitic sedimentary manganese and sit within the Cretaceous Carpentaria Basin. Special mining leases were granted to the Groote Eylandt Mining Company (GEMCO) and it has been in operation since 25 July 1964 near the community of Angurugu and, as a part of its establishment, the town of Alyangula was built as a residence for mine workers in the late 1960s. GEMCO it is a wholly-owned subsidiary of BHP but has become a part of South32 since 18 May 2015. The mine produces more than annuallyabout a quarter of the world's total and, , it has produced more than of manganese ore and concentrate. Concerns have been raised by many community members that this mining, and the resulting dust, posed a significant risk to their health and monitoring has been in place since 2017; South32 does not dispute these readings or provide its own monitoring data. The
World Health Organization The World Health Organization (WHO) is a list of specialized agencies of the United Nations, specialized agency of the United Nations which coordinates responses to international public health issues and emergencies. It is headquartered in Gen ...
advised that breathing even low levels of manganese can damage brain functions relating to dexterity and also damage respiratory and reproductive systems. To investigate the possible impacts on humans studies are being undertaken at the
University of Queensland The University of Queensland is a Public university, public research university located primarily in Brisbane, the capital city of the Australian state of Queensland. Founded in 1909 by the Queensland parliament, UQ is one of the six sandstone ...
. Sylvia Tkac, an Anindilyakwa woman, who used to work at the mine said of it: Studies have also taken place looking at the impacts on the ecosystem; this includes specific studies looking at the impact of northern quolls (Dasyurus hallucatus) living in the area. Mining rights are renewed every 21 years, with operations expected to continue until at least 2027. In March 2024 a carrier of the manganese ore, MV Anikitos, caused significant damage to the mines port during Cyclone Megan; this did not lead to a fuel leak but did, temporarily, halt production.


Winchelsea Mining

In 2019 Wichelsea Mining was granted an exploration license covering part of Winchelsea Island (Akwamburrkba), which is off the northwestern coast of Groote Eylandt. This company is a joint venture between the Anindilyakwa Advancement Aboriginal Corporation (AAAC) and AUS China International Mining and, in December 2020, they applied for a stage open cut mine plan and in 2024 they completed works on accommodation at the site. This mine is part of a strategy to make the residents of Groote Eylandt economically independent and Anindilyakwa Land Council chair, Tony Wurramarrba, says of it:


Present-day

On 20 May 2008, the federal government signed a deal with local Aboriginal people from Groote Eylandt to lease land to the government for 40 years. In return, the government will spend money in the community to improve housing, education, and health in the area.


Notable people

* Kaye Aldenhoven, a poet who lived and taught on the island. * Tia Gostelow (1999-), singer-songwriter who moved to Groote Eylandt as a child. * Nick Kenny (1982–), former
Brisbane Broncos The Brisbane Broncos are an Australian professional rugby league football club based in Red Hill, a suburb of Brisbane, Queensland. Founded in April 1987, the Broncos compete in the National Rugby League (NRL) and play their home games at ...
rugby league player who moved to Groote Eylandt. * Donald Thomson (1901–1970), Australian anthropologist and biologist. * Norman Tindale (1900–1993), Australian anthropologist, archaeologist, entomologist and ethnologist. * David Warren (1925–2010), inventor of the flight data recorder, born on Groote Eylandt. * Emily Wurramara, singer-songwriter, born on the island.


See also

* Groote Eylandt Airport * List of islands of Australia


References


Works cited

* *


External links


Alyangula Area SchoolAlyangula Area SchoolAngurugu Community Government Council siteEast Arnhem Regional CouncilEylandt Echo

GEMCO – The Groote Eylandt mining companyGEMCO publication with mapGroote Eylandt
{{Authority control Islands of the Northern Territory Australian Aboriginal freehold title Maritime history of the Dutch East India Company Unincorporated areas of the Northern Territory Arnhem Land tropical savanna IBRA subregions