Goodenough Bay
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Goodenough Bay is a large bay on the northern coast of the
Papuan Peninsula The Papuan Peninsula, also known as the Bird's Tail Peninsula, is a large peninsula in Papua New Guinea, southeast of the city of Lae, that makes up the southeastern portion of the island of New Guinea. The peninsula is the easternmost extent of ...
, in the southeast of the
Papua New Guinea Papua New Guinea, officially the Independent State of Papua New Guinea, is an island country in Oceania that comprises the eastern half of the island of New Guinea and offshore islands in Melanesia, a region of the southwestern Pacific Ocean n ...
n mainland. Located in
Milne Bay Province Milne Bay is a province of Papua New Guinea. Its capital is Alotau. The province covers 14,345 km2 of land and 252,990 km2 of sea, within the province there are more than 600 islands, about 160 of which are inhabited. The province has ...
, it spans roughly by , with a coastline running from the eastern tip of Cape Vogel to a prominent headland called Cape Frere. It forms part of the
Solomon Sea The Solomon Sea is a sea located within the Pacific Ocean. It lies between Papua New Guinea and Solomon Islands. Many major battles were fought there during World War II. Extent The International Hydrographic Organization defines the limits of ...
, within the south
Pacific Ocean The Pacific Ocean is the largest and deepest of Earth's five Borders of the oceans, oceanic divisions. It extends from the Arctic Ocean in the north to the Southern Ocean, or, depending on the definition, to Antarctica in the south, and is ...
. The northern coast along Cape Vogel is hilly, while the southern coast along the main Papuan peninsula is steeper and connects inland to the
Owen Stanley Range The Owen Stanley Range is the south-eastern part of the central mountain-chain in Papua New Guinea. Its highest point is Mount Victoria at , while its most prominent peak is Mount Suckling. History Owen Stanley Range was seen in 1849 by Captai ...
. The waters of the bay are deep, with few areas ships can easily anchor, although coastal areas contain a few
coral reef A coral reef is an underwater ecosystem characterized by reef-building corals. Reefs are formed of colonies of coral polyps held together by calcium carbonate. Most coral reefs are built from stony corals, whose polyps cluster in group ...
s. The bay lies along an active fault line, and likely formed during the
Pliocene The Pliocene ( ; also Pleiocene) is the epoch (geology), epoch in the geologic time scale that extends from 5.33 to 2.58D'Entrecasteaux Islands D'Entrecasteaux Islands () are situated near the eastern tip of New Guinea in the Solomon Sea in Milne Bay Province of Papua New Guinea. The group spans a distance of , has a total land area of approximately and is separated from the Papua New G ...
were pushed apart from mainland
New Guinea New Guinea (; Hiri Motu: ''Niu Gini''; , fossilized , also known as Papua or historically ) is the List of islands by area, world's second-largest island, with an area of . Located in Melanesia in the southwestern Pacific Ocean, the island is ...
. The area remains tectonically active. The local communities living around the bay speak a variety of different and sometimes largely unrelated
Austronesian languages The Austronesian languages ( ) are a language family widely spoken throughout Maritime Southeast Asia, parts of Mainland Southeast Asia, Madagascar, the islands of the Pacific Ocean and Taiwan (by Taiwanese indigenous peoples). They are spoken ...
. The first European to survey the area was
John Moresby Rear Admiral John Moresby (15 March 1830 – 12 July 1922) was a British naval officer who explored the coast of New Guinea and was the first European to discover the site of Port Moresby. Life and career Moresby was born in Allerford, Somerset ...
, who named the bay after
James Graham Goodenough Commodore James Graham Goodenough (3 December 1830 – 20 August 1875) was an officer in the Royal Navy who went on to become Commander-in-Chief, Australia Station. Early life and family He was born at Stoke Hill near Guildford in Surrey, ...
. An Anglican mission was established at Dogura in 1891. In the
Second World War World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
the bay saw conflict during the
New Guinea campaign The New Guinea campaign of the Pacific War lasted from January 1942 until the end of the war in August 1945. During the initial phase in early 1942, the Empire of Japan invaded the Territory of New Guinea on 23 January and Territory of Papua on ...
, particularly around the
Battle of Milne Bay The Battle of Milne Bay (25 August – 7 September 1942), also known as Operation RE or the Battle of Rabi (ラビの戦い) by the Japanese, was a battle of the Pacific campaign of World War II. Japanese naval infantry, known as ''Kaigun ...
.


Geography

Goodenough Bay is one of a series of bays along the northern coast of the
Papuan Peninsula The Papuan Peninsula, also known as the Bird's Tail Peninsula, is a large peninsula in Papua New Guinea, southeast of the city of Lae, that makes up the southeastern portion of the island of New Guinea. The peninsula is the easternmost extent of ...
, with the
Huon Gulf Huon Gulf is a large gulf in eastern Papua New Guinea. It is bordered by Huon Peninsula in the north. Both are named after French explorer Jean-Michel Huon de Kermadec. Huon Gulf is a part of the Solomon Sea. Its northern boundary is marke ...
,
Oro Bay Oro Bay is a bay in Oro Province, Papua New Guinea, located southeast of Buna. The bay is located within the larger Dyke Ackland Bay. A port is operated by PNG Ports Corporation Limited with limited wharf facilities, located at . History Du ...
, and Collingwood Bay to its west and
Milne Bay Milne Bay is a large bay in Milne Bay Province, south-eastern Papua New Guinea. More than long and over wide, Milne Bay is a sheltered deep-water harbor accessible via Ward Hunt Strait. It is surrounded by the heavily wooded Stirling Range (Papu ...
to its east. Goodenough Bay itself is about from east to west and from north to south. The northern coast is a relatively low-lying stretch of land that forms part of Cape Vogel. The low and flat coastal hills on the western stretch of this coastline are around high. Towards the end of the cape, they approach . These hills are densely forested. The northeastern end of this peninsula and the northwest boundary of Goodenough Bay is the high Glen Islet. This islet lies on a coral reef extending about from the mainland which has a sandbank on its eastern side. The mainland closest to Glen Islet is known as Sibiribiri Point (9°43'S., 150°03'E.). Rawdon Bay lies along the northern coast (9°47'S., 149°53'E.). Within it lie two small coral islets known as the Mosquito islets. The larger islet is named Baniara. The water in this bay and around the islands contains
coral reef A coral reef is an underwater ecosystem characterized by reef-building corals. Reefs are formed of colonies of coral polyps held together by calcium carbonate. Most coral reefs are built from stony corals, whose polyps cluster in group ...
s. Less than east (9°46'S., 149°56'E.) of Rawdon Bay is Menapi Bay, which also contains a reef. There are no notable coral reefs elsewhere in the bay. There are no large rivers on the northern coast. Near the head of the bay, the Ruaba River flows from the Gwoira Range. The head of the bay sees a marked change in coastal topography as Cape Vogel is replaced by the main Papuan peninsula. While mostly mountainous,
alluvial plain An alluvial plain is a plain (an essentially flat landform) created by the deposition of sediment over a long period by one or more rivers coming from highland regions, from which alluvial soil forms. A ''floodplain'' is part of the process, bei ...
s have formed in some areas where rivers flowing down from the mountains enter the bay. Much of the southern coast is a series of headlands separated by heavily sedimented smaller bays. The sediment inhibits coral settling in the bays, although some coral fringes the headlands. Smaller bays along the southern coast include Rebuda Bay, Dogura Bay, and Bartle Bay. Bartle Bay is about wide, and has inputs from two navigable rivers and a stream. It is deep at its head. Inland the southern coast has a series of small plateaus around high. Behind them lies the
Owen Stanley Range The Owen Stanley Range is the south-eastern part of the central mountain-chain in Papua New Guinea. Its highest point is Mount Victoria at , while its most prominent peak is Mount Suckling. History Owen Stanley Range was seen in 1849 by Captai ...
, which include areas of limited forest cover and peaks reaching . This coastline is quite dry, and instead of forest much of the southern coast is instead covered in grasses. Just east of Bartle Bay is Cape Frere, the eastern end of the bay (10°06'S., 150°10'E.). This cape is over high, with ravines leading down to the coast. This seafloor near Cape Frere is steep with no reef. In general, the bay is quite deep, reaching . The only suitable anchorages are in Rawdon Bay and Menapi Bay. The bay's depth likely results from geologic activity that has created a number of deep ocean chasms in the region. The Owen-Stanley fault runs from the head of the bay along the southern coast, separating the Trobriand plate/ Solomon Sea plate which contains Cape Vogel and most of the bay from the main Indo-Australian plate on which lies the southern coast. This fault means the bay sometimes experiences earthquakes. Smaller faultlines occur elsewhere in the bay. Historical earthquakes are thought to have uplifted the southern coast. Goodenough Bay likely formed in the
Pliocene The Pliocene ( ; also Pleiocene) is the epoch (geology), epoch in the geologic time scale that extends from 5.33 to 2.58D'Entrecasteaux Islands D'Entrecasteaux Islands () are situated near the eastern tip of New Guinea in the Solomon Sea in Milne Bay Province of Papua New Guinea. The group spans a distance of , has a total land area of approximately and is separated from the Papua New G ...
became separated from the mainland. The channel between these islands and Goodenough Bay is
Ward Hunt Strait The Ward Hunt Strait is a 30 km wide stretch of water in Milne Bay, separating Papua New Guinea from Goodenough Island in the D'Entrecasteaux Islands. The Dart Reefs and Keast Reef are located in the centre of the channel. The entire bay proper is classified as
internal waters According to the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea, a nation's internal waters include waters on the side of the baseline of a nation's territorial waters that is facing toward the land, except in archipelagic states. It includes wa ...
of Papua New Guinea. The area around the bay is part of
Alotau Urban LLG Alotau Rural LLG is a local-level government (LLG) of Milne Bay Province, Papua New Guinea Papua New Guinea, officially the Independent State of Papua New Guinea, is an island country in Oceania that comprises the eastern half of the island ...
, part of
Milne Bay Province Milne Bay is a province of Papua New Guinea. Its capital is Alotau. The province covers 14,345 km2 of land and 252,990 km2 of sea, within the province there are more than 600 islands, about 160 of which are inhabited. The province has ...
. Occasionally, wider definitions of the bay include the water stretching further east towards
East Cape East Cape is the easternmost point of the main islands of New Zealand. It is at the northern end of the Gisborne District of the North Island. East Cape was originally named "Cape East" by British explorer James Cook during his 1769–1779 voy ...
, and occasionally also the water stretching north to the D'Entrecasteaux Islands. The northern Papuan Peninsula coastline, including Goodenough Bay, is considered part of the
Solomon Sea The Solomon Sea is a sea located within the Pacific Ocean. It lies between Papua New Guinea and Solomon Islands. Many major battles were fought there during World War II. Extent The International Hydrographic Organization defines the limits of ...
region of the south
Pacific Ocean The Pacific Ocean is the largest and deepest of Earth's five Borders of the oceans, oceanic divisions. It extends from the Arctic Ocean in the north to the Southern Ocean, or, depending on the definition, to Antarctica in the south, and is ...
. The area has a dry season and a wet season, although temperatures remain roughly the same throughout the year, between and . Rainfall differences between the seasons shift rivers between dry beds and flows up to high. The April to December dry season of the southern coast is longer than in most other areas of the country. Wind direction changes throughout the year, coming from all four main compass points at different times.


Demographics

On the southern coast, villages are often situated on the alluvial plains between the mountains and the sea.
Taro Taro (; ''Colocasia esculenta'') is a root vegetable. It is the most widely cultivated species of several plants in the family Araceae that are used as vegetables for their corms, leaves, stems and Petiole (botany), petioles. Taro corms are a ...
cultivation in these areas relies on irrigation systems which bring water from the mountains above through dams and canals. There are social links between these villages, some of which have historical rivalries. The mission at Dogura is the headquarters of the
Anglican Church of Papua New Guinea The Anglican Church of Papua New Guinea is a province of the Anglican Communion. It was created in 1977 when the Province of Papua New Guinea became independent from the Province of Queensland in the Church of England in Australia (officially ren ...
. The Ss Peter and Paul Cathedral was built in 1936, and the mission station also contains a bank, post office, hospital, primary school, high school, and a small
airstrip An aerodrome, airfield, or airstrip is a location from which aircraft flight operations take place, regardless of whether they involve air cargo, passengers, or neither, and regardless of whether it is for public or private use. Aerodromes in ...
. The people at the eastern tip of Cape Vogel speak
Are Are commonly refers to: * Are (unit), a unit of area equal to 100 m2 Are, ARE or Åre may also refer to: Places * Åre, a locality in Sweden * Åre Municipality, a municipality in Sweden **Åre ski resort in Sweden * Are Parish, a municip ...
. The people living along the southern coast of Cape Vogel speak Gapapaiwa. Other languages spoken around the bay include Umanakaina, Yakaikeke, Kanasi, Dawawa, Ghayavi, and Ginuman. Four coastal villages in the southern part of the bay near Cape Frere speak
Wedau The Wedau Regatta Course is an artificial rowing/canoeing lake in Duisburg, Germany. The Course was built in 1935 and has hosted numerous international watersports events since its construction. Including the 1983 World Rowing Championships. It ...
, with each village having a slightly different dialect. In the Owen Stanely Range inland from these villages, Kakabai is spoken. These languages are all
Austronesian Austronesian may refer to: *The Austronesian languages *The historical Austronesian peoples The Austronesian people, sometimes referred to as Austronesian-speaking peoples, are a large group of peoples who have settled in Taiwan, maritime Sout ...
, but come from multiple mutually unintelligible subfamilies. Wedau was the local language in what became the Dogura mission. It was consequently adopted by Anglican missionaries, later becoming, to some extent, a ''
lingua franca A lingua franca (; ; for plurals see ), also known as a bridge language, common language, trade language, auxiliary language, link language or language of wider communication (LWC), is a Natural language, language systematically used to make co ...
'' for the local area. For the village of Wamira on the southern coast, population growth has been counteracted by migration to towns and cities, leaving the population in the village at roughly 400 since records began in 1896. Wamira residents have been competitive in local labour markets due to their easier access to education at the nearby Dogura mission. The people of Wamira are divided into two communities, each of which has developed its own cultural practices and has its own traditional leaders. The village as a whole elects one councillor to local government, usually chosen due to their familiarity with outsiders and formal politics than due to status within the village.


History

Archeological finds show that there have long been links between the people in Goodenough Bay and those elsewhere in Southeast New Guinea, such as people from Collingwood Bay to the northwest and
Milne Bay Milne Bay is a large bay in Milne Bay Province, south-eastern Papua New Guinea. More than long and over wide, Milne Bay is a sheltered deep-water harbor accessible via Ward Hunt Strait. It is surrounded by the heavily wooded Stirling Range (Papu ...
and offshore islands to the southeast. Stone art from Goodenough Bay is similar to that of Normanby Island. Numerous
obsidian Obsidian ( ) is a naturally occurring volcanic glass formed when lava extrusive rock, extruded from a volcano cools rapidly with minimal crystal growth. It is an igneous rock. Produced from felsic lava, obsidian is rich in the lighter element ...
artefacts have also been found.
Petroglyph A petroglyph is an image created by removing part of a rock surface by incising, picking, carving, or abrading, as a form of rock art. Outside North America, scholars often use terms such as "carving", "engraving", or other descriptions ...
s have been found near a number of villages in the area. The way stones were used may also indicate links with the
Trobriand Islands The Trobriand Islands are a archipelago of coral atolls off the east coast of New Guinea. They are part of the nation of Papua New Guinea and are in Milne Bay Province. Most of the population of 60,000 (2016) indigenous inhabitants live on the m ...
. Goodenough Bay rock art shows similar motifs to those made near the
Sepik The Sepik () is the longest river on the island of New Guinea, and the third largest in Oceania by discharge volume after the Fly River, Fly and Mamberamo River, Mamberamo. The majority of the river flows through the Papua New Guinea (PNG) provi ...
river, near
Yos Sudarso Bay Yos Sudarso Bay (), known as Humboldt Bay from 1827 to 1968, is a small bay on the north coast of New Guinea, about 50 kilometers west of the border between Indonesia's province of Papua (Indonesian province), Papua and the country of Papua New Gu ...
, on
New Hanover Island New Hanover Island, (), also called Lavongai, is a large volcanic island in the New Ireland Province of Papua New Guinea. This region is part of the Bismarck Archipelago and lies at . Measuring some , it had a population of 5,000 in 1960, which ...
, and in
New Caledonia New Caledonia ( ; ) is a group of islands in the southwest Pacific Ocean, southwest of Vanuatu and east of Australia. Located from Metropolitan France, it forms a Overseas France#Sui generis collectivity, ''sui generis'' collectivity of t ...
. F. E. Williams began an excavation of a stone circle at Boianai, slightly inland from the coast, in February 1926. This was one of the earliest excavations in the country. Boianai has large carvings and pavements. These artworks are associated with mythical beings, most prominently Wakeke, who is said to be the village founder. The excavation by Williams was viewed poorly by those in Boianai, who at least until 1970 viewed it as a spiritual place. Some myths are known from the area, and motifs such as a snake which has a human child also occur in other areas such as the
New Hebrides New Hebrides, officially the New Hebrides Condominium () and named after the Hebrides in Scotland, was the colonial name for the island group in the South Pacific Ocean that is now Vanuatu. Native people had inhabited the islands for three th ...
and the
Solomon Islands Solomon Islands, also known simply as the Solomons,John Prados, ''Islands of Destiny'', Dutton Caliber, 2012, p,20 and passim is an island country consisting of six major islands and over 1000 smaller islands in Melanesia, part of Oceania, t ...
. The first European to explore the coast was British Captain
John Moresby Rear Admiral John Moresby (15 March 1830 – 12 July 1922) was a British naval officer who explored the coast of New Guinea and was the first European to discover the site of Port Moresby. Life and career Moresby was born in Allerford, Somerset ...
, who surveyed the area from 1873 to 1874 onboard HMS ''Basilisk''. He named Goodenough Bay after another navy officer, Commodore
James Graham Goodenough Commodore James Graham Goodenough (3 December 1830 – 20 August 1875) was an officer in the Royal Navy who went on to become Commander-in-Chief, Australia Station. Early life and family He was born at Stoke Hill near Guildford in Surrey, ...
. Missionaries working in the southeast of Papua divided the area between them, with Goodenough Bay falling under the Anglican area. The headquarters of this Anglican mission was established in Dogura Bay in 1891 by Albert Alexander Maclaren and Copland King. Maclaren died from fever within the year. King became the head of the mission, which undertook not only missionary work but sought to reduce tribal violence. Over time, the decrease in violence allowed those in local communities to travel further. Baptisms of Papuans began from around 1896. Around that time, Bartle Bay also became a waystation for miners from the
Louisiade Archipelago The Louisiade Archipelago is a string of ten larger volcanic islands frequently fringed by coral reefs, and 90 smaller coral islands in Papua New Guinea. It is located 200 km southeast of New Guinea, stretching over more than and spread o ...
and Queensland seeking gold in the Owen Stanley Range. These miners depended on local guides, who would take them within the territory of their community. Some visitors collecting items from Goodenough Bay often found that it was rare to encounter women. Some observed
cannibalism Cannibalism is the act of consuming another individual of the same species as food. Cannibalism is a common ecological interaction in the animal kingdom and has been recorded in more than 1,500 species. Human cannibalism is also well document ...
. There was one coconut plantation on the northern coast in 1940. In the
New Guinea campaign The New Guinea campaign of the Pacific War lasted from January 1942 until the end of the war in August 1945. During the initial phase in early 1942, the Empire of Japan invaded the Territory of New Guinea on 23 January and Territory of Papua on ...
of the
Second World War World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
, Goodenough Bay formed part of the strategic area between the Allied-held
Milne Bay Milne Bay is a large bay in Milne Bay Province, south-eastern Papua New Guinea. More than long and over wide, Milne Bay is a sheltered deep-water harbor accessible via Ward Hunt Strait. It is surrounded by the heavily wooded Stirling Range (Papu ...
and the Japanese beachheads at Buna and
Gona Gona may refer to: People * Gona Budda Reddy * Gona Ganna Reddy * Marigona Dragusha, Kosovar model Places * Gona, Ethiopia * Gona, Papua New Guinea * Gona Barracks, Australia {{dab ...
. Japanese forces planned to attack Milne Bay in part through a landing at Goodenough Bay, and later retreated through Goodenough Bay following the
Battle of Milne Bay The Battle of Milne Bay (25 August – 7 September 1942), also known as Operation RE or the Battle of Rabi (ラビの戦い) by the Japanese, was a battle of the Pacific campaign of World War II. Japanese naval infantry, known as ''Kaigun ...
. Some retreating Japanese fighters were shot down over the bay. Later, Goodenough Bay served as a practice area for allied naval forces operating out of
Goodenough Island Goodenough Island in the Solomon Sea, also known as Nidula Island, is the westernmost of the three large islands of the D'Entrecasteaux Islands in Milne Bay Province of Papua New Guinea. It lies to the east of mainland New Guinea and southwest ...
.


References


Further reading

* * * * {{cite book , author=William Churchill , orig-year=1916 , year=2006 , title=Sissano: Movements of Migration Within and Through Melanesia , edition=illustrated , publisher=Carnegie Institution of Washington , isbn=9780608110158 , issn=0099-4936 , pages=165–166 , url=https://books.google.com/books?id=p98DAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA165 Bays of Papua New Guinea Geography of Milne Bay Province