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Dorothea Towles Church (born Dorthy Mae Towles; July 26, 1922 – July 7, 2006) was the first successful black fashion model in
Paris Paris () is the capital and most populous city of France, with an estimated population of 2,165,423 residents in 2019 in an area of more than 105 km² (41 sq mi), making it the 30th most densely populated city in the world in 2020. Si ...
.Mary Rourke
"Dorothea Church, 83; First Black Model to Work for French Designers"
''The Los Angeles Times'', July 26, 2006.


Early life

Dorthy Mae Towles, as her name is spelled on her birth certificate, was born in
Texarkana, Texas Texarkana is a city in Bowie County, Texas, United States, in the Ark-La-Tex region. Located approximately from Dallas, Texarkana is a twin city with neighboring Texarkana, Arkansas. The Texas city's population was 36,193 at the 2020 censu ...
. She was a daughter of Thomas Elsworth Towles, then a mechanic, and his wife, the former Anabella Clark. Her siblings were: Thomas, Henry,
Lois Lois is a common English name from the New Testament. Paul the Apostle mentions Lois, the pious grandmother of Saint Timothy in the Second Epistle to Timothy (commending her for her faith in 2 Timothy 1:5). The name was first used by English Chri ...
(who became an internationally renowned concert pianist), Verna, Golden, and Marian.


Education

She attended Paul Laurence Dunbar High School in Texarkana, and then Wiley College in
Marshall Marshall may refer to: Places Australia * Marshall, Victoria, a suburb of Geelong, Victoria Canada * Marshall, Saskatchewan * The Marshall, a mountain in British Columbia Liberia * Marshall, Liberia Marshall Islands * Marshall Islands, an i ...
, Texas, where she received a bachelor's degree in
biology Biology is the scientific study of life. It is a natural science with a broad scope but has several unifying themes that tie it together as a single, coherent field. For instance, all organisms are made up of cells that process hereditary ...
and
pre-med Pre-medical (often referred to as pre-med) is an educational track that undergraduate students in the United States pursue prior to becoming medical students. It involves activities that prepare a student for medical school, such as pre-med course ...
, graduating cum laude. In 1943, following the death of her mother, she moved to
Los Angeles, California Los Angeles ( ; es, Los Ángeles, link=no , ), often referred to by its initials L.A., is the List of municipalities in California, largest city in the U.S. state, state of California and the List of United States cities by population, sec ...
, to live with Dr. Henry H. Towles (1888–1965), a prominent physician and real-estate investor, and his wife Ruth. There she worked as a clerk, secretary, and cashier, until 1945, when she began teaching biology and drama at Jefferson High School in Los Angeles; she also taught, in 1946, at the Holmes Avenue School. In the summer of 1945, she enrolled in the
University of Southern California , mottoeng = "Let whoever earns the palm bear it" , religious_affiliation = Nonsectarian—historically Methodist , established = , accreditation = WSCUC , type = Private research university , academic_affiliations = , endowment = $8.1 ...
, studying drama and speech under William DeMille. She also began attending the Dorothy Farrier Charm and Modeling School and was the first black student there. In 1948 she began studying for her Masters of Science degree at the University of Southern California, where she was a member of the black women's sorority
Alpha Kappa Alpha Alpha Kappa Alpha Sorority, Inc. () is the first intercollegiate historically African American sorority. The sorority was founded on January 15, 1908, at the historically black Howard University in Washington, D.C., by a group of sixteen s ...
.


Modeling career

In addition to her work as a teacher in the 1940s, Church began appearing in charity fashion shows on the West Coast, for which she also trained models. Her sister Lois Towles, later a well-known concert pianist, sang in the
Fisk University Fisk University is a private historically black liberal arts college in Nashville, Tennessee. It was founded in 1866 and its campus is a historic district listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In 1930, Fisk was the first Africa ...
concert choir during its European tour in 1949, and Church, accompanied by her husband Dr. Nathaniel Fearonce, followed her on a two-month vacation. While in Paris, Church decided to try out for some modeling assignments.
Christian Dior Christian Ernest Dior (; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, Christian Dior SE, which is now owned by parent company LVMH. His fashion houses ...
hired her to replace one of his regular models who was out on vacation. Her assignment with Dior led to her spending the next five years in France, modeling for Jacques Fath,
Elsa Schiaparelli Elsa Schiaparelli ( , also , ; 10 September 1890 – 13 November 1973) was a fashion designer from an Italian nobility, Italian aristocratic background. She created the Schiaparelli (fashion house), house of Schiaparelli in Paris in 1927, w ...
,
Pierre Balmain Pierre Alexandre Claudius Balmain (; 18 May 1914 – 29 June 1982) was a French fashion designer and founder of leading post-war fashion house Balmain. Known for sophistication and elegance, he described the art of dressmaking as "the archite ...
, and
Robert Piguet Robert Piguet (1898 – 1953) was a Swiss-born, Paris-based fashion designer who is mainly remembered for training Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy. The Piguet fashion house ran from 1933 to 1951; since then, the brand Robert Piguet has been ...
.David Park
"Church, Dorothea Towles"
Texas State Historical Association, June 18, 2013 (modified August 15, 2013).
In April 1953, she was on the cover of '' Jet,'' an African-American magazine. In 1954 she returned to the
United States The United States of America (U.S.A. or USA), commonly known as the United States (U.S. or US) or America, is a country Continental United States, primarily located in North America. It consists of 50 U.S. state, states, a Washington, D.C., ...
. Despite her success in Europe, she struggled to find work in America as designers were reluctant to hire a black model. She began a tour of black colleges, showcasing her collection of Paris haute couture. Her fashion shows served as fund-raisers for the sorority to which she belonged, Alpha Kappa Alpha. She later signed as a model with the Grace del Marco agency in
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and worked as a fashion commentator for radio station WOV."Mr. and Mrs.: Model Dorothea Towles Engaged to Law Student", ''Jet'', February 25, 1953, p. 25.


Racial barriers

Church recalled her experience in Paris of the early 1950s in a 2004 interview for ''
Women's Wear Daily ''Women's Wear Daily'' (also known as ''WWD'') is a fashion-industry trade journal often referred to as the "Bible of fashion". Horyn, Cathy"Breaking Fashion News With a Provocative Edge" ''The New York Times''. (August 20, 1999). It provides inf ...
'': "For once I was not considered black, African American or Negro. I was just an American." The French fashion establishment "treated you like a queen," she said. In her 1998 book ''Black and Beautiful'', author Barbara Summers quotes Church about her celebrity status in Paris at the beginning of the 1950s: "I got invited out all the time. I was the only black model in Europe and I just thought I was an international person." That being said, when Church returned to the United States,
Pierre Balmain Pierre Alexandre Claudius Balmain (; 18 May 1914 – 29 June 1982) was a French fashion designer and founder of leading post-war fashion house Balmain. Known for sophistication and elegance, he described the art of dressmaking as "the archite ...
would not allow her to borrow his designs for an ''
Ebony Magazine ''Ebony'' is a monthly magazine that focuses on news, culture, and entertainment. Its target audience is the African-American community, and its coverage includes the lifestyles and accomplishments of influential black people, fashion, beauty, an ...
'' shoot out of concern that his white clientele would be offended and that the magazine's readership would not be interested in purchasing Balmain's creations. She therefore felt more accepted in Parisian culture and the modelling industry compared to that in the US. Dorothea was a successful black model in an industry, and era, which represented beauty through the predominant use of white models. Norma Jean Darden recounted the success of Dorothea, and her ability to break the racial barriers down in the modelling industry at that time.


Marriages

Church was married twice, her husbands being: *Dr. Nathaniel Alfonso Fearonce (1903–1966), a prominent dentist, as his second wife. They were married at her uncle's home in Los Angeles, California, on August 24, 1947. By this marriage, she had one stepson, Nathaniel Alfonso Fearonce, Jr. Her husband sued for divorce in 1950. *Thomas Ayres Church (died 2000), a Justice Department lawyer specializing in Chinese immigration; he was a nephew of activist
Mary Church Terrell Mary Church Terrell (born Mary Eliza Church; September 23, 1863 – July 24, 1954) was one of the first African-American women to earn a college degree, and became known as a national activist for civil rights and suffrage. She taught in the Lati ...
. They were married a civil ceremony in New York City, New York, on July 5, 1962, and a religious ceremony in Paris, France, on December 10, 1962. They had one child, Thomas Ayres Church Jr. In 1953, her engagement to a
Detroit Detroit ( , ; , ) is the largest city in the U.S. state of Michigan. It is also the largest U.S. city on the United States–Canada border, and the seat of government of Wayne County. The City of Detroit had a population of 639,111 at t ...
law student, Edward Bell, was announced. The engagement was called off several months later when, a report in '' Jet'' magazine noted, "she would not agree to drop her modeling career after the wedding to stay home and do the things a wife should do".


Death

Church died aged 83 at
St. Luke's-Roosevelt Hospital Center Mount Sinai Morningside, formerly known as Mount Sinai St. Luke's, is a teaching hospital located in the Morningside Heights neighborhood of Manhattan in New York City. It is affiliated with the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai and the M ...
in
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. Her death was attributed to heart and kidney disease.


Legacy

She was featured in the ''Black Style Now'' exhibition, which opened September 9, 2006, at the
Museum of the City of New York A museum ( ; plural museums or, rarely, musea) is a building or institution that cares for and displays a collection of artifacts and other objects of artistic, cultural, historical, or scientific importance. Many public museums make these ...
. Thomas Church and Dorothea's son, Thomas, survives them.


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Church, Dorothea 1922 births 2006 deaths People from Texarkana, Texas African-American female models American female models African-American models Female models from Texas University of Southern California alumni Wiley College alumni 20th-century African-American women 20th-century African-American people 20th-century American people American expatriates in France 21st-century African-American people 21st-century African-American women