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Chilean colonization of the
Strait of Magellan The Strait of Magellan (), also called the Straits of Magellan, is a navigable sea route in southern Chile separating mainland South America to the north and Tierra del Fuego to the south. The strait is considered the most important natural pas ...
began in 1843 when an expedition founded
Fuerte Bulnes Fuerte Bulnes is a Chilean fort located by the Strait of Magellan, 62 km south of Punta Arenas. It was founded in 1843 on a rocky hill at Punta Santa Ana, and named after President Manuel Bulnes Prieto. The fort was built to further the ...
. In 1848 the settlement of
Punta Arenas Punta Arenas (; historically Sandy Point in English) is the capital List of cities in Chile, city of Chile's southernmost Regions of Chile, region, Magallanes Region, Magallanes and Antarctica Chilena. The city was officially renamed as Magal ...
was established further north in the strait and grew eventually to become the main settlement in the strait, a position it holds to this day. The Chilean settlement of the strait was crucial to establish its sovereignty claims in the area.
Argentina Argentina (), officially the Argentine Republic ( es, link=no, República Argentina), is a country in the southern half of South America. Argentina covers an area of , making it the second-largest country in South America after Brazil, th ...
formally recognised Chilean sovereignty in 1881. The Magallanes territory was made a regular Chilean province in 1928.


Background

In the 1540s and 1550s several maritime and land expeditions into the strait were launched from the Spanish bases in Chile. Southward expansion by Spanish
conquistador Conquistadors (, ) or conquistadores (, ; meaning 'conquerors') were the explorer-soldiers of the Spanish and Portuguese Empires of the 15th and 16th centuries. During the Age of Discovery, conquistadors sailed beyond Europe to the Americas, ...
es in Chile halted after the conquest of the
Chiloé Archipelago The Chiloé Archipelago ( es, Archipiélago de Chiloé, , ) is a group of islands lying off the coast of Chile, in the Los Lagos Region. It is separated from mainland Chile by the Chacao Channel in the north, the Sea of Chiloé in the east and ...
in 1567. The Spanish are thought to have lacked incentives for further conquests south; the indigenous populations were sparse and did not engage in the sedentary agricultural life of the Spanish. In the 1580s there was a major attempt to settle and fortify the strait organized in metropolitan Spain. The venture ended in failure with settlers dying or fleeing the strait. The last known survivor was rescued by a passing ship in 1590. Proposals to settle the strait were raised again in Spanish courts in 1671 in connection to
John Narborough Rear-Admiral Sir John Narborough (or Narbrough, c. 1640–1688) was an English naval commander. He served with distinction in the Anglo-Dutch Wars and against the pirates of the Barbary Coast. He is also known for leading a poorly understood ...
's expedition to Chile. In 1676 a rumour reached the Spanish court claiming that England was preparing an expedition to settle the Strait of Magellan. This was not the first rumour of a foreign settlement in Patagonia to reach the Spanish. A proposal to settle the strait was raised yet again in 1702 by the
Governor of Chile The Royal Governor of Chile ruled over the Spanish colonial administrative district called the Captaincy General of Chile, and as a result the Royal Governor also held the title of a Captain General. There were 66 such governors or captains du ...
Francisco Ibáñez de Peralta. In this last proposal, the
Captaincy General of Chile The Captaincy General of Chile (''Capitanía General de Chile'' ) or Governorate of Chile (known colloquially and unofficially as the Kingdom of Chile), was a territory of the Spanish Empire from 1541 to 1817 that was, for most of its existenc ...
would itself finance the settlement with the
Real Situado The royal situado ( es, real situado) was the Spanish term for revenues that the viceroyalties of Peru, New Spain, New Granada, and Rio de la Plata sent to finance colonial frontier defenses against internal and external enemies. Soon after Pedr ...
with the sole condition that these payments begin to arrive on time. However the Spanish failure to settle the Strait of Magellan in the 1580s was so notorious that its precedent ruled out any attempt to settle the strait for centuries to come.


French and British interest in the strait

In Chile, there were suspicions that the
British British may refer to: Peoples, culture, and language * British people, nationals or natives of the United Kingdom, British Overseas Territories, and Crown Dependencies. ** Britishness, the British identity and common culture * British English, ...
or French would attempt to settle the strait. The 1837 French expedition of
Dumont D'Urville Jules Sébastien César Dumont d'Urville (; 23 May 1790 – 8 May 1842) was a French explorer and naval officer who explored the south and western Pacific, Australia, New Zealand, and Antarctica. As a botanist and cartographer, he gave his nam ...
surveyed the area of
Puerto del Hambre Ciudad del Rey Don Felipe, also known as Puerto del Hambre (Port Famine), is a historic settlement site at ''Buena Bay'' (locally known as Mansa Bay) on the north shore of the Strait of Magellan approximately south of Punta Arenas in the Reg ...
and the navigational conditions in the Strait of Magellan.Michael Morris, ''The Strait of Magellan'', Martinus Nijhoff Publisher, 1989, , pages 22 and ff. In a report the expedition recommended that a
French colony The French colonial empire () comprised the overseas colonies, protectorates and mandate territories that came under French rule from the 16th century onward. A distinction is generally made between the "First French Colonial Empire", that exist ...
be established at the strait to support future traffic along the route. Chilean authorities were aware of the French interest in the strait but had no detailed information about French designs for the area. Chile never made any public complain to France. Chilean officials also suspected the British of being interested in establishing a base in the strait. This suspicion was based in on the
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(1826–1830) and
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(1831–1836) voyage of the HMS ''Beagle'' and the reports originating from them. In the opinion of
Robert FitzRoy Vice-Admiral Robert FitzRoy (5 July 1805 – 30 April 1865) was an English officer of the Royal Navy and a scientist. He achieved lasting fame as the captain of during Charles Darwin's famous voyage, FitzRoy's second expedition to Tierra de ...
a British base in strait would be benefical for the contact of the
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with Australia.


Ancud expedition

200px, Replica of the schooner ''Ancud'' used to established a permanent Chilean presence in the strait in 1843. While in exile in Peru
Bernardo O'Higgins Bernardo O'Higgins Riquelme (; August 20, 1778 – October 24, 1842) was a Chilean independence leader who freed Chile from Spanish rule in the Chilean War of Independence. He was a wealthy landowner of Basque-Spanish and Irish ancestry. Alth ...
, independent Chile's head of state from 1817 to 1823, promoted the colonization of the strait in his correspondence with authorities. Chile's decision to send an expedition to the strait appears to be unrelated to O'Higgin's suggestions and was more of a direct response to an American citizen's request to be allowed to establish a tug boat service for
steamship A steamship, often referred to as a steamer, is a type of steam-powered vessel, typically ocean-faring and seaworthy, that is propelled by one or more steam engines that typically move (turn) propellers or paddlewheels. The first steamships ca ...
s in the strait. Chilean authorities were supportive of the idea but sought first to establish a permanent Chilean outpost in the strait. As no ship of the
Chilean Navy The Chilean Navy ( es, Armada de Chile) is the naval warfare service branch of the Chilean Armed Forces. It is under the Ministry of National Defense. Its headquarters are at Edificio Armada de Chile, Valparaiso. History Origins and the W ...
was available for the expedition the schooner ''Ancud'' was built in Chiloé for the purpose. In Chiloé
Prussia Prussia, , Old Prussian: ''Prūsa'' or ''Prūsija'' was a German state on the southeast coast of the Baltic Sea. It formed the German Empire under Prussian rule when it united the German states in 1871. It was '' de facto'' dissolved by an ...
n naturalist
Bernhard Eunom Philippi Bernhard Eunom Philippi (September 19, 1811, in Charlottenburg – September 6, 1852) was a German naturalist, explorer and colonization agent for Chile. He played an important role in the Chilean colonization of the Strait of Magellan and th ...
learned about the expedition and was granted permission by the Chilean government to join it.


Repairs and incident at Puerto Americano

On its first attempt to reach the strait in the winter of 1843 ''Ancud'' was badly battered by storms reaching Puerto Americano in the fjords and channels of Patagonia on June 6. Puerto Americano was a sheltered cove where the Yates cousins had established a trading post. Being a friend of the cousins Chilean-British commander
John Williams Wilson John Williams Wilson (1798–1857), also known as Juan Guillermos, was an English- Chilean sailor and politician. Born in Bristol, he entered the newly founded Chilean navy in 1824 and rose to the rank of commander. He was appointed governor of ...
had directed ''Ancud'' there as a first stopover. The expeditionaries spent one month repairing Ancud and exploring the nearby area in a small boat they built on place. The Yates cousins provided the men with lodge, dry
sea lion Sea lions are pinnipeds characterized by external ear flaps, long foreflippers, the ability to walk on all fours, short and thick hair, and a big chest and belly. Together with the fur seals, they make up the family Otariidae, eared seals. ...
meat and dry firewood. On August 4, two week after a repaired ''Ancud'' departed for the strait, she was back in port, yet again needing repairs. When entering Puerto Americano a second time the expeditionaries found that ''
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'' had arrived to trade with the Yates cousins. Deeming ''Enterprise'' to be engaging in tobacco contraband with the Yates cousins Williams demanded it to leave by September 5. By one account his mean went as far as boarding ''Enterprise'' to force her to leave. ''Enterprise'', being a larger ship was well defended against any eviction attempt and refused to follow William's demands. Williams did threaten to report it to Chilean authorities in Chiloé if he found it again. Later Chilean authorities sanctioned the Yates cousins forcing the to provide sea lion meat and dry shellfish free of charge to Chilean supply ships sailing to or from the strait of Magellan. William's men borrowed and repaired the cousin's
chalupa A chalupa () is a specialty dish of south-central Mexico, including the states of Hidalgo, Puebla, Guerrero, and Oaxaca. Description Chalupas are made by pressing a thin layer of masa dough around the outside of a small mold, in the process c ...
and used it to send men back to Chiloé to obtain repair material for ''Ancud''. Once the Ancud was repaired a second time it sat sail for the strait again.


Ancud in the Strait of Magellan

The whole crew of ''Ancud'' went ashore in the strait on September 21, 1843, and took formal possession of the strait raising the flag of Chile in a ceremony. A few days later the crew of a French ship went ashore near the Chileans promoting William's to complain about the use of the French flag on land. The French complied with the demand and stopped using the flag. After declaring possession the ''Ancud'' and its crew went on to explore the northern shore of the strait in search of a suitable site for establishing a permanent outpost. Reaching as far as
Primera Angostura Primera Angostura is a sound of the Strait of Magellan in the Chilean region of Magallanes. It is located near Punta Delgada. It lies between the commune of San Gregorio, in Magallanes Province, to the north, and the commune of Primavera, i ...
before having to return in face of bad weather, the expeditionaries had a friendly encounter with indigenous Tehuelche at Pecket Bay and discovered fragments of mineral coal on the beaches of Catalina Bay. A decision was made to establish the outpost at the port of San Felipe given its good harbour and abundance of wood, a resource that was scarce in sites further northeast. From October 12 to November 11 the expeditionaries built the fortress-settlement
Fuerte Bulnes Fuerte Bulnes is a Chilean fort located by the Strait of Magellan, 62 km south of Punta Arenas. It was founded in 1843 on a rocky hill at Punta Santa Ana, and named after President Manuel Bulnes Prieto. The fort was built to further the ...
. The first garrison and settlers of Fuerte Bulnes was a contingent of eleven persons, eight of them soldiers, two women and a
maritime pilot A maritime pilot, marine pilot, harbor pilot, port pilot, ship pilot, or simply pilot, is a mariner who maneuvers ships through dangerous or congested waters, such as harbors or river mouths. Maritime pilots are regarded as skilled professionals ...
. Having named army officer Manuel González Hidalgo as the first governor ''Ancud'' left the nascent colony on November 13 to search for
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of the coal found on the beaches further north. The crew of Ancud failed to locate coal outcrops and sailed back to Fuerte Bulnes from where they sat sail to Chiloé on December 5. When leaving the sheltered waters of the channels and entering the
Gulf of Penas The Gulf of Penas (''Golfo de Penas'' in Spanish, meaning "gulf of distress") is a body of water located south of the Taitao Peninsula, Chile. Geography It is open to the westerly storms of the Pacific Ocean, but it affords entrance to several nat ...
''Ancud'' discovered the survivors of the wrecked French ship ''Fleuris'' whom they took on board. Unfavourable winds and the load the rescues added made progress north slower than usual. By arriving back to its point of origin in ''Ancud'''s namesake port on December 5 the expedition had come to an end.


Development of the settlement

The first resupply expedition, this time with ''Voladora'', to Fuerte Bulnes departed on January 1844 from the port of Ancud. On board ''Voladora'' came
Sergeant major Sergeant major is a senior non-commissioned rank or appointment in many militaries around the world. History In 16th century Spain, the ("sergeant major") was a general officer. He commanded an army's infantry, and ranked about third in the ...
Pedro Silva who had been appointed governor taking command of the colony from Manuel González Hidalgo. Soon however, Silva became unpopular in the garrison for his harsh
discipline Discipline refers to rule following behavior, to regulate, order, control and authority. It may also refer to punishment. Discipline is used to create habits, routines, and automatic mechanisms such as blind obedience. It may be inflicted on ot ...
. Governor Silva signed a treaty with local Tehuelche chief Santos Centurión where the latter recognised Chilean sovereignty. The treaty also declared that the Tehuelche would not be hindered to trade with the colony.Mayorga, M. (2019)
Explotación de guanacos, avestruces y lobos de mar: José Nogueira y las actividades económicas iniciales de Magallanes
Bajo la Lupa, Subdirección de Investigación, Servicio Nacional del Patrimonio Cultural
From 1845 onwards ''Ancud'' was stationed in Fuerte Bulnes contributing to the charting and exploration of the strait. The garrison of Fuerte Bulnes was relieved in late 1845 when new soldiers arrived.
Sergeant major Sergeant major is a senior non-commissioned rank or appointment in many militaries around the world. History In 16th century Spain, the ("sergeant major") was a general officer. He commanded an army's infantry, and ranked about third in the ...
José de los Santos Mardones took command of Fuerte Bulnes as governor in 1847. The winter of 1847 was harsh and the settlement's livestock was moved north to the valley of río del Carbón (lit. "River of the Coal") which provided a sheltered area with good grazing grounds. The soils of the place were more appropriate for sowing crops than those around Fuerte Bulnes and the climate less constant winds. A small outpost was established there to take care of the livestock and protect the colony from eventual Tehuelche incursions. In March 1848 half of Fuerte Bulnes was destroyed in a fire. Mardones took the occasion to move much of the settlement to the site of the small outpost further north. This move led in effect to the establishment of the modern city of
Punta Arenas Punta Arenas (; historically Sandy Point in English) is the capital List of cities in Chile, city of Chile's southernmost Regions of Chile, region, Magallanes Region, Magallanes and Antarctica Chilena. The city was officially renamed as Magal ...
. Convicts of the
penal colony A penal colony or exile colony is a settlement used to exile prisoners and separate them from the general population by placing them in a remote location, often an island or distant colonial territory. Although the term can be used to refer t ...
were left behind to care of Fuerte Bulnes. Punta Arenas developed rapidly, by mid-1849 it had reached or surpassed Fuerte Bulnes in population. Barter with ships allowed the settlers to be supplied with nails and tools necessary for the growing settlement. By October 1851 the population of Punta Arenas had grown to 436. In November of the same year the Mutiny of Cambiazo, an internal conflict involving Chilean soldiers and convicts, led to the ravaging and abandonment of the settlement. The abandoned settlement was further destroyed in January 1852 when Tehuelches sacked whatever of value that was left. To rebuild the settlement the Chilean government sent
Bernhard Eunom Philippi Bernhard Eunom Philippi (September 19, 1811, in Charlottenburg – September 6, 1852) was a German naturalist, explorer and colonization agent for Chile. He played an important role in the Chilean colonization of the Strait of Magellan and th ...
as new governor. Philippi arrived in Punta Arenas on board of ''Infatigable'' on August 18, 1852. While the settlement's relations with Tehuelches had been amicable in early October 1852 Philippi was assassinated by Tehuelches during an inland trip with his assistant and his interpreter. After this Chile appointed a new governor and changed the status of the strait from
penal colony A penal colony or exile colony is a settlement used to exile prisoners and separate them from the general population by placing them in a remote location, often an island or distant colonial territory. Although the term can be used to refer t ...
to a "territory of colonization". In an attempt to promote the economic activity of the settlement governor Diego Dublé Almeyda travelled to the
Falkland Islands The Falkland Islands (; es, Islas Malvinas, link=no ) is an archipelago in the South Atlantic Ocean on the Patagonian Shelf. The principal islands are about east of South America's southern Patagonian coast and about from Cape Dubou ...
aboard '' Chacabuco'' in 1876 bringing back sheep that were transferred to pioneer farmers. With these sheep Englishman Henry Reynard ( es, Enrique Reynard) made the first successful attempt at mass sheep farming in the Straits of Magellan in 1877 on Isabel Island. All the best sheep-herding areas along the Strait had been leased or reserved by 1884. The concentration of land ownership around the strait was denounced in various works in the late 19th and early 20th-century. Punta Arenas was the base for small-scale gold mining in
Brunswick Peninsula Brunswick Peninsula () is a large peninsula in Magallanes y la Antártica Region, Patagonia, Chile, at . Geography The Brunswick Peninsula is triangular in shape, joined to the mainland in the north by a wide isthmus. It widens to almost in t ...
and eastern
Tierra del Fuego Tierra del Fuego (, ; Spanish for "Land of the Fire", rarely also Fireland in English) is an archipelago off the southernmost tip of the South American mainland, across the Strait of Magellan. The archipelago consists of the main island, Isla ...
in the 1860s and 1870s. Martinic Beros, Mateo. ''Crónica de las Tierras del Canal Beagle''. 1973. Editorial Francisco de Aguirre S.A. pp. 55–65Bascopé Julio, Joaquín
Sentidos Coloniales I. El Oro y la Vida Salvaje en Tierra del Fuego, 1880–1914
''
Magallania ''Magallania'' is an academic journal published by the University of Magallanes. It publishes articles on social sciences and humanities regarding Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego, and Antarctica Antarctica () is Earth's southernmost and least ...
''
A proper gold rush around Punta Arenas started in 1884 and ended in the 1900s contributing to the economic growth of the settlement. The territory of Magallanes was made a regular Chilean province in 1928.


Argentine claim

The strait was also claimed by Argentina. Asperities were for a while subdued by the 1856 Argentina–Chile treaty. However, in the 1860s Argentina recruited local Tehuelche chief Casimiro Biguá in a bid to counter Chilean influence and establish an Argentine settlement in the strait. Biguá was declared
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of the
Argentine Army The Argentine Army ( es, Ejército Argentino, EA) is the land force branch of the Armed Forces of the Argentine Republic and the senior military service of Argentina. Under the Argentine Constitution, the president of Argentina is the commander- ...
and granted a salary accordingly. He was promised modern weaponry for him and his men. In July 1866 Biguá signed a treaty with Argentine authorities declaring Tehuelches Argentine nationals and "recognizing Argentine sovereignty up to the strait". The wider scheme considered the establishment of an Argentine outpost in San Gregorio Bay in the eastern part of strait. Argentines did eventually arrive by sea to San Gregorio Bay in the mid-1860s, but did so without the supplies needed to establish a settlement. In a renewed attempt in 1869 Argentines built a hut thought to serve as an Argentine–Tehuelche trading post in the San Gregorio Bay. This attempt was thwarted by Chilean governor Óscar Viel y Toro who oversaw the dismantling of the structure. With the Boundary Treaty of 1881 Argentina accepted Chilean sovereignty over the strait, not before having Chile accept Argentine rule over eastern Tierra del Fuego Island. During the negotiations Argentina also attempted to establish a prohibition against
fortification A fortification is a military construction or building designed for the defense of territories in warfare, and is also used to establish rule in a region during peacetime. The term is derived from Latin ''fortis'' ("strong") and ''facere'' ...
s in the strait. The final text established however only a prohibition against fortifications that may hinder free navigation in the strait. During negatiations there was also a Chilean proposal to give Argentina part of easternmost northern shore of the strait to Argentina in exchange for Chile keeping all of Tierra del Fuego.


Footnotes


References


Sources

* * * *{{cite book, last1=Williams, first1=Glyn, title=The desert and the dream: A study of Welsh colonization in Chubut 1865 – 1915, date=1975, publisher=University of Wales Press, location=Cardiff, isbn=978-0-7083-0579-9 1840s in Chile History of Tierra del Fuego History of Magallanes Region