Charmeuse (; ; ) is a lightweight

fabric Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, and different types of fabric. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is no ...

woven with a

satin weave A satin weave is a type of fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back; it is not durable, as it tends to snag. It is one of three fundamental types ...

. These float threads give the front of the fabric a smooth, shiny finish, whereas the back has a dull finish. Charmeuse differs from plain

satin A satin weave is a type of Textile, fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back; it is not durable, as it tends to snag. It is one of three fundamen ...

in that charmeuse has a different ratio of float (face) threads, and is of a lighter weight. Charmeuse may be made of

silk Silk is a natural fiber, natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be weaving, woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is most commonly produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoon (silk), c ...

polyester Polyester is a category of polymers that contain one or two ester linkages in every repeat unit of their main chain. As a specific material, it most commonly refers to a type called polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Polyesters include some natura ...

, or

rayon Rayon, also called viscose and commercialised in some countries as sabra silk or cactus silk, is a semi-synthetic fiber made from natural sources of regenerated cellulose fiber, cellulose, such as wood and related agricultural products. It has t ...

. Charmeuse woven from blended fibers has also become more common. It is used in women's clothing such as

lingerie Lingerie (, , ) is a category of primarily women's clothing including undergarments (mainly brassieres), sleepwear, and lightweight robes. The choice of the word is often motivated by an intention to imply that the garments are alluring, fashio ...

, evening gowns, and blouses, especially garments with a

bias Bias is a disproportionate weight ''in favor of'' or ''against'' an idea or thing, usually in a way that is inaccurate, closed-minded, prejudicial, or unfair. Biases can be innate or learned. People may develop biases for or against an individ ...

cut. It is occasionally used in menswear.

Characteristics

Charmeuse is lightweight and drapes easily. It has a satin side, which is shiny, and a matte side, which is dull. It can be made of silk or a synthetic lookalike such as polyester. Silk charmeuse is more expensive and delicate but is softer and a better insulator. Polyester charmeuse has characteristics that are undesirable for sewing, including a tendency to pucker at the

seams Seam may refer to: Science and technology * Seam (geology), a stratum of coal or mineral that is economically viable; a bed or a distinct layer of vein of rock in other layers of rock * Seam (metallurgy), a metalworking process the joins the ends ...

and fraying during cutting and handling. Polyester charmeuse is cheaper and can often withstand machine washing. It can be a challenging fabric to sew; it tends to be slippery and may be difficult to control through the

presser foot A presser foot is an attachment used with sewing machines to hold fabric flat as it is fed through the machine and stitched. Sewing machines have feed dogs in the bed of the machine to provide traction and move the fabric as it is fed through the ...

of a

sewing machine Diagram of a modern sewing machine Animation of a modern sewing machine as it stitches A sewing machine is a machine used to sew fabric and materials together with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolutio ...

Pins A pin is a device, typically pointed, used for fastening objects or fabrics together. Pins can have the following sorts of body: *a shaft of a rigid inflexible material meant to be inserted in a slot, groove, or hole (as with pivots, hinges, an ...

can make holes and marks in polyester charmeuse, so sharp dressmaker's pins, with a smooth taper to the point, are used when sewing charmeuse garments. A

sizing Sizing or size is a substance that is applied to, or incorporated into, other materials—especially papers and textiles—to act as a protective filler or glaze. Sizing is used in papermaking and textile manufacturing to change the absorption ...

product may be sprayed on charmeuse before cutting.

History

A rudimentary charmeuse was first found to be made in China, dating back to 3630 BCE. It was originally made of silk and reserved for the upper class, but charmeuse eventually made its way to Europe and remained popular through the Middle Ages and the Renaissance period. The modern fabric that is associated with the name charmeuse, however, was further developed in France by tailors and dressmakers.

Uses

The luster and delicate hand make charmeuse suited to

, flowing evening gowns, and draped blouses. Bridal gowns sometimes use charmeuse. Because the fabric does not hold a shape well and tends to cling and hang against the body, it is not used for full, flared skirts. It is best suited to a more fluid, slinky bias cut. Its uses in menswear include the lining of

jacket A jacket is a garment for the upper body, usually extending below the hips. A jacket typically has sleeves and fastens in the front or slightly on the side. Jackets without sleeves are vests. A jacket is generally lighter, tighter-fitting, and ...

s and slacks,

handkerchief A handkerchief (; also called a hankie or, historically, a handkercher or a ) is a form of a kerchief or bandanna, typically a hemmed square of thin fabric which can be carried in the pocket or handbag for personal hygiene purposes such as w ...

ties TIES may refer to: * TIES, Teacher Institute for Evolutionary Science * TIES, The Interactive Encyclopedia System * TIES, Time Independent Escape Sequence * Theoretical Issues in Ergonomics Science * The International Ecotourism Society {{disambig ...

, and underwear, such as charmeuse

boxer shorts Boxer shorts (also commonly known as simply boxers) are a type of undergarment typically worn by men. The term has been used in English since 1944 for all-around-elastic shorts, so named after the shorts worn by Boxing, boxers, for whom unhindered ...

. The look of charmeuse is prized for dressy garments, especially when cut on the bias, a technique used to create garments that flow well on the body. Charmeuse is also the required material for the outer layer of Olympic competition ski jumper suits.

References

6. Sewport Support Team (2021, Oct. 10). What is Charmeuse Fabric: Properties, How its Made and Where. Sewport. Retrieved on Oct. 21, 2021 from https://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/charmeuse-fabric {{Fabric Woven fabrics Satin