Charles Johnston (travel Writer)
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Charles Johnston MRCS (12 March 1812 – 16 July 1872) was a British surgeon, travel writer of Africa and founder of the
Durban Botanic Gardens The Durban Botanic Gardens is situated in the city of Durban, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. It is Durban's oldest public institution and Africa's oldest surviving botanical gardens. The gardens cover an area of in a subtropical climate. History ...
. Johnston visited the
Ethiopian Empire The Ethiopian Empire, historically known as Abyssinia or simply Ethiopia, was a sovereign state that encompassed the present-day territories of Ethiopia and Eritrea. It existed from the establishment of the Solomonic dynasty by Yekuno Amlak a ...
(then known as Abyssinia) in 1842 – 1843 and recorded his experience in a book titled ''Travels in Southern Abyssinia, Through the Country of Adal to the Kingdom of Shoa''. His book forms an important historical account of the customs and culture of the region in the 1840s. He befriended the King of the Ethiopian kingdom of
Shewa Shewa (; ; Somali: Shawa; , ), formerly romanized as Shua, Shoa, Showa, Shuwa, is a historical region of Ethiopia which was formerly an autonomous kingdom within the Ethiopian Empire. The modern Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa is located at it ...
,
Sahle Selassie Sahle Selassie (Amharic: ሣህለ ሥላሴ, 1795 – 22 October 1847) was the Negus, King of Shewa from 1813 to 1847. An important Amhara people, Amhara noble of Ethiopia, he was a younger son of Wossen Seged. Sahle Selassie was the father of ...
, publishing in his book their conversations from various meetings. After his travels in Ethiopia he returned to England where he became assistant editor of the Lady's Newspaper. Some years later Johnston returned to Africa to settle in
Durban Durban ( ; , from meaning "bay, lagoon") is the third-most populous city in South Africa, after Johannesburg and Cape Town, and the largest city in the Provinces of South Africa, province of KwaZulu-Natal. Situated on the east coast of South ...
, Colony of Natal (now part of South Africa), where he founded the Durban Botanic Gardens, which is now the oldest surviving botanic gardens in Africa. Johnston returned to England in 1861 and eventually settled in
Barnstaple Barnstaple ( or ) is a river-port town and civil parish in the North Devon district of Devon, England. The town lies at the River Taw's lowest crossing point before the Bristol Channel. From the 14th century, it was licensed to export wool from ...
, Devon.


Early life and education

Charles Johnston was the son of Thomas Johnston (1785–1866) and Elizabeth Johnston (1789–1867 née Woodiwis). Thomas Johnston was a successful silk and linen merchant who had emigrated from Scotland to England. Thomas settled for a time in Manchester where Charles Johnston was born. Thomas eventually settled in Birmingham becoming chairman of the Birmingham Water Works. Charles Johnston had nine siblings who survived into adulthood: five sisters and four brothers. Johnston was the second eldest child and the eldest son. Three of Johnston's brothers followed him into the medical profession. Johnston was apprenticed at the age of 15 to a surgeon and apothecary called Edward Moore. He later attended Samuel Cox's 'School of Medicine and Surgery'. He became a licenciate of the
Society of Apothecaries The Worshipful Society of Apothecaries of London is one of the livery companies of the City of London. It is one of the largest livery companies (with over 1,600 members in 2012) and ranks 58th in their order of precedence. The society is a me ...
in 1833 and a member of the
Royal College of Surgeons The Royal College of Surgeons is an ancient college (a form of corporation) established in England to regulate the activity of surgeons. Derivative organisations survive in many present and former members of the Commonwealth. These organisations ...
in 1835. Johnston wrote that since boyhood he had wished for a "life of novel and wild adventure".


Visit to the Ethiopian Empire (1842–1843)


Preparation and journey to the East African coast

In 1841 Johnston resigned a commission with the
East India Company The East India Company (EIC) was an English, and later British, joint-stock company that was founded in 1600 and dissolved in 1874. It was formed to Indian Ocean trade, trade in the Indian Ocean region, initially with the East Indies (South A ...
, with whom he was employed as a ship's surgeon, so that he could take an opportunity to explore East Africa. Johnston obtained letters of introduction from the British Indian government to Captain Haines the colonial administrator of
Aden Aden () is a port city located in Yemen in the southern part of the Arabian peninsula, on the north coast of the Gulf of Aden, positioned near the eastern approach to the Red Sea. It is situated approximately 170 km (110 mi) east of ...
and to Captain Harris the British ambassador to the Kingdom of
Shewa Shewa (; ; Somali: Shawa; , ), formerly romanized as Shua, Shoa, Showa, Shuwa, is a historical region of Ethiopia which was formerly an autonomous kingdom within the Ethiopian Empire. The modern Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa is located at it ...
, within the Ethiopian Empire. Johnston stayed in Aden for several weeks before he received an offer from Captain Haines to be put in charge of a mission to take supplies to the British Embassy in Shewa. Johnston began his journey into East Africa by sailing from Aden to
Tadjoura Tadjoura (; ; ) is one of the oldest towns in Djibouti and the capital of the Tadjourah Region. The town rose to prominence in the early 19th century as an alternative port to nearby Zeila. Lying on the Gulf of Tadjoura, it is home to a popula ...
in February 1842 aboard the brig-of-war ''Euphrates'' captained by John Young. From there he intended to take the supplies to the embassy in Shewa. Whilst in Tadjoura he met with the local ruler, described as a sultan. Johnston was however unable to travel further on this occasion upon the advice of Captain Young, who felt that the local inhabitants of Tadjoura were unwilling to assist the mission. He therefore returned on the ship ''Euphrates'' to Aden. Captain Haines believed that it was the presence of a war ship which had made the inhabitants of Tadjoura unwilling to assist the mission. It was therefore arranged that Johnston would approach Tadjoura on a local vessel from the city of
Berbera Berbera (; , ) is the capital of the Sahil, Somaliland, Sahil region of Somaliland and is the main sea port of the country, located approximately 160 km from the national capital, Hargeisa. Berbera is a coastal city and was the former capital of t ...
. In Berbera Johnston met with
Sharmarke Ali Saleh Sharmarke Ali Saleh (; c. 1775 – May 25, 1861) was a leading 19th century Somali statesman, captain, and merchant. He was given the nickname "African Rothschild" due to his immense wealth. He was one of the richest men living on the African con ...
, the most powerful man in the region. Saleh loaned Johnston a local vessel for his onward journey to Tadjoura. Johnston returned to Tadjoura aboard the vessel on 6 March 1842.


Journey inland to Shewa

Johnston commenced his inland journey from Tadjoura with the supplies to Shewa on 27 March travelling with a camel caravan. On 5 April 1842 Johnston reached Lake Assal. A safe passage was agreed through the territory of a local tribe Johnston called the 'Muditu' for the price of two bags of rice, date fruits and three pieces of calico. However, despite the agreement, on 10 April a slave belonging to one of the camel-owners in the caravan was murdered under cover of darkness, supposedly by the Muditu. On 17 April 1842 Johnston came within one hour's journey of
Lake Abbe Lake Abbe, also known as Lake Abhe Bad, is a salt lake (geography), salt lake, lying on the Ethiopia-Djibouti border. It is one of a chain of six connected lakes, which also includes (from north to south) lakes Lake Gargori, Gargori, Lake Laitali ...
, where the
Awash River } The Awash River (sometimes spelled Awaash; Oromo language, Oromo: ''Awaash OR Hawaas'', Amharic: ዐዋሽ, Afar language, Afar: ''Hawaash We'ayot'', Somali language, Somali: ''Webiga Dir'', Italian language, Italian: ''Auasc'') is a major river ...
terminates. He wished to visit the shores of the lake, which he believed to have never before been visited by European explorers. He offered 25 dollars for accompaniment to the lake. However, his travel companions refused because the area was controlled by a hostile tribe. Johnston then resolved to visit the lake himself, but was persuaded not to go, after being told that death would be the certain consequence. On 7 May 1842 Johnston recorded that another slave who was travelling with the camel caravan was murdered. The assailant celebrated by publicly wearing a black feather in his hair and received no punishment other than a fine of five bullocks paid by his friends collectively. Johnston was disgusted and thereafter always addressed the assailant with the biblical name of
Cain Cain is a biblical figure in the Book of Genesis within Abrahamic religions. He is the elder brother of Abel, and the firstborn son of Adam and Eve, the first couple within the Bible. He was a farmer who gave an offering of his crops to God. How ...
. On 17 May 1842 Johnston was informed that one of the men hired to protect him called Esau Ibrahim had threatened to kill him. He decided to get this man away from him, by paying him two dollars to travel ahead of the camel caravan, with a letter to Shewa announcing his arrival. On 20 May 1842 Johnston crossed the Awash River into the Kingdom of Shewa.


Political difficulties on arrival in Shewa

On 22 May 1842 Johnston reached what he described as the first frontier station of Shewa, a place he called Dinnomalee. This was a place where camel caravans were received and paid duties to the governor of the area. Johnston was provided with accommodation at a settlement called Farree, the first time Johnston had slept in a house since leaving Tadjoura in March. Johnston subsequently met with the local governor known as Walasma Mahomed, who was a hereditary governor of the Ifat province within Shewa and claimed descent from the military leader
Ahmad ibn Ibrahim al-Ghazi Ahmad ibn Ibrahim al-Ghazi (, Harari: አሕመድ ኢብራሂም አል-ጋዚ, ; 21 July 1506 – 10 February 1543) was the Imam of the Adal Sultanate from 1527 to 1543. Commonly named Ahmed ''Gragn'' in Amharic and ''Gurey'' in Somali, ...
, who had invaded Abyssinia three centuries earlier. All the diplomatic correspondence Johnston had with him for the British Embassy was confiscated. Johnston told Wallasmah Mahomed that Queen Victoria would be angry when she heard how her embassy’s correspondence was confiscated, but Wallasmah Mahomed responded by threatening to put Johnston in chains. Johnston was told that he could not travel onwards to the British Embassy in the capital
Ankober Ankober (), formerly known as Ankobar, is a town in central Ethiopia. Located in the North Shewa Zone (Amhara), North Shewa Zone of the Amhara Region, it's perched on the eastern escarpment of the Ethiopian Highlands at an elevation of about . ...
, but must remain at Farree, until the King
Sahle Selassie Sahle Selassie (Amharic: ሣህለ ሥላሴ, 1795 – 22 October 1847) was the Negus, King of Shewa from 1813 to 1847. An important Amhara people, Amhara noble of Ethiopia, he was a younger son of Wossen Seged. Sahle Selassie was the father of ...
gave orders that he could advance. Two sentinels kept watch over Johnston to ensure his compliance. Eventually members of the British Embassy became aware of Johnston’s captivity and Mr Scott, a surveying draftsman attached to the embassy, rode to meet Johnston. However, Scott was told that as he had travelled without permission, he too was now captive until the King decided he could leave. On 30 May 1842 a message arrived from the King that Johnston could proceed to a settlement called Angolalla, which was West of Ankober. On 31 May Johnston set off for Ankober, passing through a town called
Aliyu Amba Aliyu Amba (Amharic: ዐልዩ ዐምባ) is a town in central Ethiopia. Located in the Semien Shewa Zone of the Amhara Region, this town has a latitude and longitude of with an elevation of 1805 meters above sea level. It was historically part o ...
on the journey. At Ankober he dined at the recently established British Embassy, before travelling onwards the same day to Angolalla, where he met with the ambassador Captain Harris. The supplies Johnston had brought with him were taken to Angolalla and deposited in the palace yard, where the King commanded that they should be opened in his presence. After the first few were opened he gave permission for the British Embassy to take them.


Stay in Shewa

Johnston left Angolalla to return to Ankober where he stayed several days at the embassy, before travelling to more permanent accommodation in Aliyu Amba. On the first day of his arrival, he experienced a return of the fever which he had suffered from in Bombay and Aden. Ten days after leaving Ankober, Johnston was told by the local governor that the King had ordered him to leave Shewa. Johnston bribed the governor to allow him to travel to Angolalla to try and obtain an audience with the King. On 30 June 1842 the King granted him an audience. Johnston gifted the King Chinese silk velvet and a bead purse containing a ring carved from jasper. Johnston asked to be allowed to stay in Shewa until after the rainy season and then to be given the King's assistance to travel to Enarea. The King agreed to his request. The King subsequently sent a message to Johnston requiring him to take plenty of medicine and to learn
Amharic Amharic is an Ethio-Semitic language, which is a subgrouping within the Semitic branch of the Afroasiatic languages. It is spoken as a first language by the Amhara people, and also serves as a lingua franca for all other metropolitan populati ...
in preparation for their next meeting. On 4 August 1842 the King asked Johnston to manufacture gunpowder for him. The Abyssinians already manufactured gunpowder locally, but Johnston considered it to be of inferior quality. The King sent a scribe to record the proportions of each ingredient Johnston used. On 12 August Johnston travelled to see the King at a place Johnston called Myolones, where he was granted an audience with the King and presented him with a bottle of the gunpowder he had manufactured. He also gave a Spanish black lace veil for the Queen
Bezabish Woizero Bezabish Wolde (died 1870s) was the wife of Sahle Selassie, Negus of Shewa, mother of King Haile Melekot of Shewa, and grandmother of Emperor Menelik II. She held the districts of Bulga and Yifat as her personal fiefs. Bezabish would be ...
. On 13 August the King asked Johnston to inspect and give his opinion on firearms from his armoury and to choose the best firearm. Johnston selected a gun manufactured by Theophilus Richards of Birmingham, which the King remarked to be his favourite. The King indicated that he wanted Johnston to teach his servants how to make guns. In a further audience with the King in September, the King and Johnston discussed European gun technology and the manufacture of dyes. Johnston undertook to cultivate indigo for the King and teach his people how to manufacture it. The King declared this knowledge would be more useful than all the gifts he had received from the British Embassy. In 1843 Johnston left Shewa, travelling with the British diplomats on the conclusion of their stay in Shewa.


Settlement in Durban (1849–1861)

Johnston arrived in
Durban Durban ( ; , from meaning "bay, lagoon") is the third-most populous city in South Africa, after Johannesburg and Cape Town, and the largest city in the Provinces of South Africa, province of KwaZulu-Natal. Situated on the east coast of South ...
in October 1849 aboard a ship called the ''John Gibson''. In the same year as his first arrival in Durban, Johnston founded the
Durban Botanic Gardens The Durban Botanic Gardens is situated in the city of Durban, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. It is Durban's oldest public institution and Africa's oldest surviving botanical gardens. The gardens cover an area of in a subtropical climate. History ...
. However, the death of his first wife in 1850 caused him to resign his position of managing the gardens. Johnston entered local politics in Durban and became one of the first councillors in Durban to be elected in the first local election on 2 August 1854. Johnston was later elected to the Natal Legislative Council in the 1857 Natal parliamentary election. On 19 November 1851 Johnston obtained a licence to practise medicine in Natal. He was one of the earliest medical practitioners to practise in Durban. During 1857 he published by subscription his ''Observations Upon Disease in Natal'' and in 1860, towards the end of Johnston's residence in Durban, he published a book titled ''Observations on Health and Disease, and on the Physical Economy of Human Life, in Natal''. Johnston left Durban in 1861 and returned to England.


Publications


Engravings from drawings by Johnston of Ethiopia

File:Abyssinian House 1846 (engraving).png, Abyssinian House File:Guansho State Prison, Abyssinia 1846 (engraving).png, Guansho State Prison File:Gateway, King's Palace, Abyssinia 1847 (engraving).png, Gateway to the King's Palace


References


External links

* {{Commons category-inline, Charles Johnston (1812 – 1872), Charles Johnston 1812 births 1872 deaths