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A (, literally "ball-hat") is a formal headdress with distinctive woollen pompoms worn since by Protestant women as part of their folk costume or in the three adjoining
Black Forest The Black Forest (german: Schwarzwald ) is a large forested mountain range in the state of Baden-Württemberg in southwest Germany, bounded by the Rhine Valley to the west and south and close to the borders with France and Switzerland. It is ...
villages of Gutach, Kirnbach and Hornberg-Reichenbach. The picturesque-looking red has become a symbol of the
Black Forest The Black Forest (german: Schwarzwald ) is a large forested mountain range in the state of Baden-Württemberg in southwest Germany, bounded by the Rhine Valley to the west and south and close to the borders with France and Switzerland. It is ...
as a whole, despite its rather local origins. The red pom-poms and white brim of the also is said to have inspired the top layer of the
Black Forest Cake Black Forest gâteau or Black Forest cake (American English) is a chocolate sponge cake with a rich cherry filling based on the German dessert (), literally "Black Forest Cherry-torte". Typically, Black Forest gateau consists of several layer ...
.


Bollenhut as part of folk costume

The broad-brimmed, whitewashed straw hat bears 14 prominent woolen pompoms arranged in the shape of a cross. Only eleven pompoms are visible, however, because three are covered by those on top. Unmarried women wear red pompoms, married women wear black, old women and widows wear only the mob cap. The ''Bollenhut'' can weigh up to and is manufactured by female
milliner Hat-making or millinery is the design, manufacture and sale of hats and other headwear. A person engaged in this trade is called a milliner or hatter. Historically, milliners, typically women shopkeepers, produced or imported an inventory of ...
s. The red ''Bollenhut'' may first be worn by girls at their
confirmation In Christian denominations that practice infant baptism, confirmation is seen as the sealing of the covenant created in baptism. Those being confirmed are known as confirmands. For adults, it is an affirmation of belief. It involves laying on ...
. A silk
mob cap A mobcap (or mob cap or mob-cap) is a round, gathered or pleated cloth (usually linen) bonnet consisting of a caul to cover the hair, a frilled or ruffled brim, and (often) a ribbon band, worn by married women in the 18th and early 19th centuri ...
is worn underneath the ''Bollenhut'', tied under the chin. Young girls before
confirmation In Christian denominations that practice infant baptism, confirmation is seen as the sealing of the covenant created in baptism. Those being confirmed are known as confirmands. For adults, it is an affirmation of belief. It involves laying on ...
(Gutach and other parishes in vicinage were part of
Württemberg Württemberg ( ; ) is a historical German territory roughly corresponding to the cultural and linguistic region of Swabia. The main town of the region is Stuttgart. Together with Baden and Hohenzollern, two other historical territories, Württ ...
until 1804 and were
Protestant Protestantism is a Christian denomination, branch of Christianity that follows the theological tenets of the Reformation, Protestant Reformation, a movement that began seeking to reform the Catholic Church from within in the 16th century agai ...
, unlike the majority of the Black Forest) and old women only wore the mob cap. Today the ''Bollenhut'' and associated ''Tracht'' are still worn on holidays and for traditional events. The ''Bollenhut'' and local costumes may be seen all year round e.g. in the Black Forest Costume Museum in
Haslach im Kinzigtal Haslach im Kinzigtal (literally ''Haslach in the Kinzig (Rhine), Kinzig valley''; gsw, label=Low Alemannic German, Low Alemannic, Haaslä) is a small city in the Black Forest in the district Ortenaukreis, Baden-Württemberg in south-western Germa ...
.


Development as a Black Forest symbol

In the late 18th century, apart from several mob caps, the '' Schühut'' and '' Gupfhut'', which were customary in the County of Hauenstein, were associated with the folk costume of the Black Forest. These types of hats which were known throughout Europe gradually fell out of use by the middle of the 19th century. In 1841 following a study trip through the Black Forest, Théodore Valerio published, through the Fréres Gihaut in Paris, a
lithograph Lithography () is a planographic method of printing originally based on the immiscibility of oil and water. The printing is from a stone (lithographic limestone) or a metal plate with a smooth surface. It was invented in 1796 by the German a ...
of a couple from Hornberg wearing their local costume, which showed an early version of the ''Bollenhut'' for the first time in France. After Gutach was connected to the Baden Black Forest Railway in 1873, artists like
Wilhelm Hasemann Wilhelm Hasemann (16 September 1850, Mühlberg - 28 November 1913, Gutach) was a German genre painter and illustrator. Life and career Hasemann was the only son of a mechanic and left school at the age of fifteen to work in his father's sh ...
, Curt Liebich and Fritz Reiss settled there, forming the "Gutach artists' colony". They portrayed the Gutach costume as an artistic subject, their works were widely distributed and shaped the image of the Black Forest. Like local author,
Heinrich Hansjakob Heinrich Hansjakob (1837- 1916, pseudonym: Hans am See) was a German Catholic priest and Baden historian and politician who was especially well known as a writer. In addition to scientific works, political writings and travel reports, he also publis ...
, they were part of a movement of Baden folk costume. At the turn of the 20th century, particularly Hasemann's painting, ''After Going To Church'' which showed ''Bollenhut'' wearers, was widely publicized in illustrated magazines and picture postcards.Brigitte Heck: ''Ein Hut macht Karriere.''. In: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe (publ.): ''Baden! 900 Jahre – Geschichten eines Landes.'' Info-Verlag, Karlsruhe, 2012, , p. 256 (Katalog zur Großen Landesausstellung) The fame of the ''Bollenhut'' as (wrongly) generally typical of the Black Forest rose as a result of films of local life (''Heimatfilme'') in the 1950s and 1960s, particularly the 1950 film, '' The Black Forest Girl'' (''Schwarzwaldmädel''), with
Sonja Ziemann Sonja Alice Selma Toni Ziemann (; 8 February 1926 – 17 February 2020) was a German film and television actress. In the 1950s, she was among Germany's most prominent actresses, awarded the 1950 Bambi for appearing, together with Rudolf Prack, i ...
. This first German
color film Color photography is photography that uses media capable of capturing and reproducing colors. By contrast, black-and-white or gray- monochrome photography records only a single channel of luminance (brightness) and uses media capable only of ...
of the
postwar period In Western usage, the phrase post-war era (or postwar era) usually refers to the time since the end of World War II. More broadly, a post-war period (or postwar period) is the interval immediately following the end of a war. A post-war period ...
is one of the most successful German films of all time with an estimated 15 million viewers.


See also

*
Black Forest The Black Forest (german: Schwarzwald ) is a large forested mountain range in the state of Baden-Württemberg in southwest Germany, bounded by the Rhine Valley to the west and south and close to the borders with France and Switzerland. It is ...
*
Tracht ''Tracht'' () refers to traditional garments in German-speaking countries and regions. Although the word is most often associated with Bavarian, Austrian, South Tyrolian and Trentino garments, including lederhosen and dirndls, many other German- ...


References


External links

{{Wiktionary, Bollenhut
Haslach Trachten MuseumReichenbach Music and Trachten Club with organized Bollenhut Tracht wearing
Hats Folk costumes Ortenaukreis Black Forest German clothing