
Attar, also known as ittar, is an
essential oil
An essential oil is a concentrated hydrophobic liquid containing volatile (easily evaporated at normal temperatures) chemical compounds from plants. Essential oils are also known as volatile oils, ethereal oils, aetheroleum, or simply as the ...
derived from botanical or other natural sources. Most commonly these oils are extracted via
hydrodistillation or steam distillation. Attar can also be expressed by chemical means but generally natural perfumes which qualify as attars are distilled with water. The oils are generally distilled into a wood base such as sandalwood and then aged. The aging period can last from one to ten years depending on the botanicals used and the results desired. Technically attars are distillates of flowers, herbs, spices and other natural materials such as baked soil over sandalwood oil/liquid paraffins using hydrodistillation technique involving a still () and receiving vessel (). These techniques are still in use at
Kannauj
Kannauj (Hindustani language, Hindustani pronunciation: ) is an ancient city, administrative headquarters and a municipal board or Nagar palika, Nagar Palika Parishad in Kannauj district in the Indian States and territories of India, state of Ut ...
in India.
History
The word 'attar' is believed to have been derived from the
Persian word .
The Persian physician
Ibn Sina
Ibn Sina ( – 22 June 1037), commonly known in the West as Avicenna ( ), was a preeminent philosopher and physician of the Muslim world, flourishing during the Islamic Golden Age, serving in the courts of various Iranian peoples, Iranian ...
was the first to derive the attar of flowers and used distillation to do so.
The earliest recorded mention of the techniques and methods used to produce essential oils is believed to be that of
Ibn al-Baitar
Diyāʾ al-Dīn Abū Muḥammad ʿAbd Allāh ibn Aḥmad al-Mālaqī, commonly known as Ibn al-Bayṭār () (1197–1248 AD) was an Al-Andalus, Andalusian Arabs, Arab physician, botanist, pharmacist and scientist. His main contribution was to sys ...
(1188–1248), an
Al-Andalus
Al-Andalus () was the Muslim-ruled area of the Iberian Peninsula. The name refers to the different Muslim states that controlled these territories at various times between 711 and 1492. At its greatest geographical extent, it occupied most o ...
ian (Muslim Iberia)
physician
A physician, medical practitioner (British English), medical doctor, or simply doctor is a health professional who practices medicine, which is concerned with promoting, maintaining or restoring health through the Medical education, study, Med ...
,
pharmacist
A pharmacist, also known as a chemist in English in the Commonwealth of Nations, Commonwealth English, is a healthcare professional who is knowledgeable about preparation, mechanism of action, clinical usage and legislation of medications in ...
and
chemist
A chemist (from Greek ''chēm(ía)'' alchemy; replacing ''chymist'' from Medieval Latin ''alchemist'') is a graduated scientist trained in the study of chemistry, or an officially enrolled student in the field. Chemists study the composition of ...
.
The
Egyptians
Egyptians (, ; , ; ) are an ethnic group native to the Nile, Nile Valley in Egypt. Egyptian identity is closely tied to Geography of Egypt, geography. The population is concentrated in the Nile Valley, a small strip of cultivable land stretchi ...
were famous for producing
perfumes
Perfume (, ) is a mixture of fragrance, fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), Fixative (perfumery), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agre ...
throughout the ancient world. They were formulated from plants and flowers before they could be added to other oils. It was later refined and developed by al-Shaykh al-Rais, a renowned physician who made a distinctive type of aromatic product. He was referred to as
Abu Ali Sina. He was among the first people to come with the technique of distillation of roses and other plant fragrances.
Liquid perfumes used to be a mixture of oil and crushed herbs until his discovery where he first experimented with roses.
In
Yemen
Yemen, officially the Republic of Yemen, is a country in West Asia. Located in South Arabia, southern Arabia, it borders Saudi Arabia to Saudi Arabia–Yemen border, the north, Oman to Oman–Yemen border, the northeast, the south-eastern part ...
, a special variety of attar was introduced by
Arwa al-Sulayhi
Arwa al-Sulayhi (), () was a long-reigning ruler of Yemen, firstly as the co-ruler of her first two husbands and then as sole ruler, from 1067 until her death in 1138. She was the last of the rulers of the Sulayhid dynasty, Sulayhid Dynasty and ...
, the Yemeni Queen. This type of attar was prepared from mountainous
flowers
Flowers, also known as blooms and blossoms, are the reproductive structures of flowering plants ( angiosperms). Typically, they are structured in four circular levels, called whorls, around the end of a stalk. These whorls include: calyx, m ...
and given as a gift to the monarchs of Arabia.
Abul Fazal Faizee gives another verdict of how Attar was used to making the Mabkhara-incense-burner. The
barks that were used in Akbar's time, according to
Faizee, were
aloe
''Aloe'' (; also written ''Aloë'') is a genus containing over 650 species of flowering plant, flowering succulent plant, succulent plants.WFO (2022): Aloe L. Published on the Internet;http://www.worldfloraonline.org/taxon/wfo-4000001341. Acc ...
,
sandalwood
Sandalwood is a class of woods from trees in the genus ''Santalum''. The woods are heavy, yellow, and fine-grained, and, unlike many other aromatic woods, they retain their fragrance for decades. Sandalwood oil is extracted from the woods. Sanda ...
, and
cinnamon
Cinnamon is a spice obtained from the inner bark of several tree species from the genus ''Cinnamomum''. Cinnamon is used mainly as an aromatic condiment and flavouring additive in a wide variety of cuisines, sweet and savoury dishes, biscuits, b ...
. Resins such as myrrh and frankincense, animal substances such as musk and anbar, were used along with roots of special trees and a few other spices. The ruler of Awadh,
Ghazi-ud-Din Haidar Shah
Ghazi-ud-Din Haidar Shah (c. 1769 – 19 October 1827) was the last nawab wazir of Oudh from 11 July 1814 to 19 October 1818, and first Nawab of Awadh, King of Oudh (Oudh State) from 19 October 1818 to 19 October 1827.
Life
He was the third son ...
used to prepare fountains of attar around his bedroom. These fountains would create a very pleasant fragrant and romantic atmosphere by functioning continuously.
Uses and types
Attars are generally classified based on their perceived effect on the body. 'Warm' attars, such as musk, amber and kesar (saffron), are used in winter, as they are believed to increase body temperature. Likewise, 'cool' attars, such as rose, jasmine, khus,
kewra
Kewra, keora or kewda (, , , ਕੇਵੜਾ ) is an essential oil distilled from the male flower of the fragrant screwpine. The plant is native to Tropical Asia, Southeast Asia and Australasia, and the oil is used as a flavoring agent throug ...
and mogra, are used in summers for their perceived cooling effect on the body.
Although attars are mostly used as a perfume, they are also used for medicinal and aphrodisiacal purposes.
Musk
Musk is a class of aromatic compound produced by a male
Siberian musk deer
The Siberian musk deer (''Moschus moschiferus'') is a musk deer found in the mountain forests of Northeast Asia. It is most common in the taiga of southern Siberia, but is also found in parts of Mongolia, Inner Mongolia, Manchuria and the Korean ...
, a rare species deer found in the
Himalayas
The Himalayas, or Himalaya ( ), is a mountain range in Asia, separating the plains of the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau. The range has some of the Earth's highest peaks, including the highest, Mount Everest. More than list of h ...
. The substance used in creating musk can be produced only by a mature male musk deer, and the process of acquiring it involves killing the deer. As such, its demand has led to the endangerment of most musk deer species, which in turn has aided the rise of synthetic musk, known as 'white musk'.
Natural musk is commonly mixed with medicines and confectionary. Purported medicinal benefits range from working as an antivenom and strengthening organs.
Ambergris
Ambergris, also known as Anbar, is a waxy substance excreted from
sperm whale
The sperm whale or cachalot (''Physeter macrocephalus'') is the largest of the toothed whales and the largest toothed predator. It is the only living member of the Genus (biology), genus ''Physeter'' and one of three extant species in the s ...
s and retrieved from beaches and the sea. It is thought to have been used by humans for at least 1,000 years, and has a musky aroma.
Ambrein, an alcohol used as a scent preservative, is extracted from ambergris.
Attar of roses
Spirituality and religion
For hundreds of years, attars were considered in some societies, mainly in Islamic cultural folk to be something that attracted angels and warded off evil spirits. Sufi saints and spiritual aspirants would adorn themselves with these scents to assist them in their journey towards enlightenment.
The different sects of Hinduism worship deities through household and temple offerings and Sufis in Islamic shrines and sacred khanqah's. Attars are commonly used within the incense and food used as offerings.
See also
*
Bṛhat Saṃhitā
*
Charaka Samhita
The ''Charaka Samhita'' () is a Sanskrit text on Ayurveda (Indian traditional medicine). Along with the '' Sushruta Samhita'', it is one of the two foundational texts of this field that have survived from ancient India. It is one of the three w ...
*
Essential oil
An essential oil is a concentrated hydrophobic liquid containing volatile (easily evaporated at normal temperatures) chemical compounds from plants. Essential oils are also known as volatile oils, ethereal oils, aetheroleum, or simply as the ...
*
Kannauj Perfume
*
List of essential oils
*
Varahamihira
References
Further reading
*Chemical Industries in India by ''H. E. Watson'' Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Volume 18, Issue 7, Year 1926, Pages 748 - 752.
*Buchanan's account of the manufacture of rose-water and other perfumes at Patna in A.D. 1811 and its bearing on the history of Indian perfumery industry, by ''P. K. Gode'', New Indian Antiquary 7, 181–185; also in: SICH I (1961), 36–42, Year 1946.
*Studies in the history of Indian cosmetics and perfumery: Notes on the history of the rose, rose-water and attar of roses—Between B.C. 500 and A.D. 1850 by ''P. K. Gode'', New Indian Antiquary 8, 107–119; also in: SICH I (1961), 15–35 Year 1946.
*Studies in Indian Cultural History, by ''P.K.Gode'', Vol. I, Year 1961, Hoshiarpur.
*A useful pathological condition of wood by ''M. Jalaluddin'' Economic Botany, Volume 31, Issue 2, April 1977, Pages 222–224.
*Perfumery in ancient India by ''Krishnamurthy R'' Indian J Hist Sci., Volume 22, Issue 1, Jan 1987, Pages 71–79.
*Attars of India – A Unique Aroma by ''J. N. Kapoor'' Perfumer & Flavorist Jan/Feb 1991, Pages 21–24.
*Indian attars by ''Christopher Mcmohan'' International Journal of Aromatherapy, Volume 7, Issue 4, Year 1996, Pages 10–13.
*India Where Attars Originated by ''Omprakash Yemul'' India Perspectives, March 2004 Page 40.
*Traditional system for the production of kewda essential oil and attar by ''D K Mohapatra & S Sahoo'' Indian Journal of traditional Knowledge, Vol 6(3), July 2007 Pages 399–402.
*Traditional method of Chuli oil extraction in Ladakh by ''Deepa H Dwivedi & Sanjai K Dwivedi'' Indian Journal of traditional Knowledge, Vol 6(3), July 2007, Pages 403–405.
*Ecology and traditional technology of screw pine perfume industry in coastal Orissa by ''Deenabandhu Sahu & Malaya Kumar Misra'' Indian Journal of traditional Knowledge, Vol 6(3), July 2007.
*Kewda Perfume Industry in India 1 by ''P. K. Dutta, H. O. Saxena and M. Brahmam'' Economic Botany, Vol 41(3), July 1987, Pages 403–410.
*Rose cultivation for Attar production in Bulgaria
anufacturing of Scentby ''Rai B.'' Indian Horticulture (India) Vol 29(4), Mar 1985, Pages 13–18.
*Material that is old and new (No.28). Present and past of perfumeby ''OE HIDEFUSA'' Expected Materials for the Future Volume 3, No 5, Year 2003, Pages 66–71.
*Parisrut the earliest distilled liquor of Vedic times or of about 1500 B.C. by ''Mahdihassan S.'' Indian J Hist Sci. volume 16 Issue 2, Nov 1981, Pages 223–229.
*A brief history of Indian alchemy covering pre-Vedic to Vedic and Ayurvedic period (circa 400 B.C.-800 A.D.). by ''Ali M.'' Bull Indian Inst Hist Med Hyderabad Volume 23, Issue 2, Jul 1993, Pages 151 - 166.
*Indian Alchemy: its Origin and Ramifications. In Chemistry and Chemical Techniques in India (Ed.) Subbarayappa, B.V., Delhi: Centre for Studies in Civilizations Year 1999.
*History of Chemistry and Alchemy in India from Pre-historic to Pre- Modern Times. In History of Indian Science and Technology an Culture AD 1000–1800 (Ed) A. Rahman. Year 1998. Oxford.
*Preparation and Testing of Perfume as described in Brhatsamhita Sachin A Mandavgane, P P Holey and J Y Deopujari ''Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge'' Vol 8(2), April 2009 Page 275–277.
*Dragoco Report. Dr Paolo Rovesti. Year 1975.
{{refend
Culture of India
Desi culture
Perfumes