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Self Rescue (climbing)
Self-rescue (or self-extraction) is a group of techniques in climbing and mountaineering where the climber(s) – sometimes having just been severely injured – use their equipment to retreat from dangerous or difficult situations on a given climbing route without calling on third party search and rescue (SAR) or mountain rescue services for help. The reasons for a retreat can include an injured or fatigued climber(s) who can no longer continue the climb, the climber(s) having lost their way on the climbing route, a sudden severe storm/bad weather, lost/damaged climbing equipment—or food/water provisions— due to an avalanche or a dropped haul bag, or the route grade is too difficult. Self-rescue techniques can materially speed up the time taken to get injured climber(s) to safety thus saving lives, and it will also save the climber(s) from being charged for SAR services (e.g. full helicopter rescue is expensive), and avoids putting the SAR team members into harm's way an ...
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Fixed Rope
In climbing and mountaineering, a fixed-rope (or fixed-line) is the practice of installing networks of in-situ anchored Climbing rope#Static rope, static climbing ropes on climbing routes to assist any following climbers (and Porter (carrier), porters) to ascend more rapidly—and with less effort—by using mechanical aid devices called Ascender (climbing), ascenders. Fixed ropes also allow climbers (and porters) to descend rapidly using mechanical devices called Descender (climbing), descenders. Fixed ropes also help to identify the line of the climbing route in periods of low visibility (e.g. a storm or white-out). The act of ascending a fixed rope is also called jumaring, which is the name of a type of ascender device, or also called jugging in the US. Fixed ropes are put in place by the lead climbing, lead climbers, and the ropes may or may not be removed as the climbers descend after completing the route. For popular Himalayan climbing routes, extensive networks of fixed ...
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List Of Climbing Knots
There are many types of knots that are commonly used in the pursuit of rock climbing, ice climbing, and general mountaineering, the most popular of which are listed below. List References External links Rock climbing knotsKnots used in climbing and mountaineering Grog's Index of Climbing Knots
{{DEFAULTSORT:Glossary Of Knots Common In Climbing Climbing knots, Climbing and mountaineering-related lists ...
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The Freedom Of The Hills
''Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills'' is often considered the standard textbook for mountaineering and climbing in North America. The book was first published in 1960 by The Mountaineers of Seattle, Washington. The book was written by a team of over 40 experts in the field. Development The book grew out of the annual climbing course run since 1935 by the Mountaineers, for which the reading material was originally a combination of European works and lecturers' mimeo outlines. These were assembled into the ''Climber's Notebook'' and published by the Mountaineers as the hardbound ''Mountaineers Handbook'' in 1948. By 1955 the rapid postwar evolution of climbing techniques and tools had made the ''Handbook'' out of date, and the effort was begun to produce ''Freedom of the Hills''. Nearly 80 major contributors are credited in the first edition and it was organized by a committee of 8 editors. The first four editions were only available in hardcover. The title of the boo ...
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Crevasse Rescue
Crevasse rescue (or crevasse-extraction) is a set of techniques in mountaineering where climbers use their equipment to pull a climber, who has just fallen into a crevasse, to safety. Crevasse rescue is considered a core skill set in alpine climbing, but difficult to do efficiently. It is typically encountered by rope teams on glaciers. When a climber falls into a crevasse, ideally the other rope team member(s) react quickly and self-arrest using their ice axes so they are not also dragged into the crevasse. After arresting, their first major task is to transfer some or all of the weight of the fallen climber—who is hanging in the crevasse—to a snow anchor (or other fixed anchor such as a deadman anchor or a snow bollard), which they do by using prussik knots or progress capture devices (PCDs) to transfer the rope from them onto the new fixed anchor. Having transferred some or all of the weight of the fallen climber, the other team member(s) will assess the situation ...
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Glossary Of Climbing Terms
Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. ebook: The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom. A B C D E F G ...
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Self-arrest
The self-arrest is a climbing technique mostly used in mountaineering and alpine climbing where a climber who has fallen and is sliding uncontrollably down a snow or ice-covered slope 'arrests' their fall by themselves by using their ice axe and their crampons. There are many ways to self-arrest depending on the climber's body position while falling (e.g. falling head-first and/or falling on their back etc.,) but they mostly involve the climber quickly digging the pick of their ice axe into the slope (with the adze of the axe at their shoulder and the axe held at either end diagonally across their body), rolling over onto their stomach so that they can use their full body weight to push down harder on the pick, and simultaneously digging the front-points of their crampons into the slope. Practicing the 'self-arrest' is a core skill set for mountaineers in snow and ice-covered terrain. On steeper ground such as in couloirs (particularly ice-covered), and on glaciers where a ...
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Alpine Climbing
Alpine climbing () is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e.g. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpine environment. While alpine climbing began in the European Alps, it is used to refer to climbing in any remote mountainous area, including in the Himalayas and Patagonia. The derived term alpine style refers to the fashion of alpine climbing to be in small lightly equipped teams who carry their equipment (e.g. no porters), and do all of the climbing (e.g. no sherpas or reserve teams). Alpinists face a wide range of serious risks in addition to the specific risks of rock, ice, and mixed climbing. This includes the risks of rockfalls (common with rock faces in alpine environments), avalanches (especially in couloirs), seracs and crevasses, violent storms hitting climbers on exposed mountain faces, altitude effects (dehydration, edema, f ...
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Big Wall Climbing
Big wall climbing is a form of rock climbing that takes place on long and sheer multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch climbing routes, routes (of ''at least'' 6–10 pitches or 300–500 metres) that require a full day, if not several days, to ascend. Big wall routes are sustained and exposed and the climbers remain suspended from the continuously sheer and vertical rock face, even sleeping hanging from the face, with limited options to sit down or escape unless they abseil down the route—a complex and risky action. It is therefore a physically and mentally demanding form of climbing. Big wall climbing is typically done in pairs in a traditional climbing format, but with the distinction that the non-lead climber usually ascends by jumaring up a fixed rope to save time and energy. It requires an extensive range of supplies and equipment over and above that of traditional climbing that is carried in haul bags, including portaledges, aid climbing equipment, poop tubes, and food and ...
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Multi-pitch Climbing
Multi-pitch climbing is a type of climbing that typically takes place on climbing routes, routes that are more than a single rope length (circa 50 to 70 metres) in height (or distance), and thus where the lead climber cannot complete the climb as a single pitch (climbing), pitch. Where the number of pitches exceeds 6–10 (300–500 metres), it can become big wall climbing, or where the pitches are in a mixed rock and ice mountain environment, it can become alpine climbing. Multi-pitch rock climbs can come in traditional climbing, traditional, sport climbing, sport, and aid climbing, aid formats. Some have free soloed multi-pitch routes. Multi-pitch climbing is more complex and riskier than single-pitch climbing as the climbers will remain exposed on the route (e.g. a rock climbing route, an ice climbing, or a mixed climbing route) for longer, and it will often involve the use of hanging belays, long abseils, and the creation of belay anchors. Rescues from multi-pitch climbs are ...
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Crevasse
A crevasse is a deep crack that forms in a glacier or ice sheet. Crevasses form as a result of the movement and resulting stress associated with the shear stress generated when two semi-rigid pieces above a plastic substrate have different rates of movement. The resulting intensity of the shear stress causes a breakage along the faces. Description Crevasses often have vertical or near-vertical walls, which can then melt and create seracs, arches, and other ice formations. These walls sometimes expose layers that represent the glacier's stratigraphy. Crevasse size often depends upon the amount of liquid water present in the glacier. A crevasse may be as deep as and as wide as The presence of water in a crevasse can significantly increase its penetration. Water-filled crevasses may reach the bottom of glaciers or ice sheets and provide a direct hydrologic connection between the surface, where significant summer melting occurs, and the bed of the glacier, where additional wa ...
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Ascender (climbing)
An ascender is a device (usually mechanical) used for directly ascending, or for facilitating protection, with a fixed rope when climbing on steep mountain terrain. A form introduced in the 1950s became so popular it began the term "Jumar" for the device, and the verb "to jumar" to describe its use in ascending. Ascenders can also be used as braking components within a rope-hauling system, often used in rescue situations. Use Ascenders are usually used in pairs on a single rope and offer similar functionality to friction knots, but are faster, safer, and easier to use, albeit still with consequences in weight and in security (as ascenders can, even with a locking carabiner, come off the rope, and fail by shredding the rope at high loads, rather than slipping and fusing as with friction knots). A mechanical ascender employs a cam which allows the device to slide freely in the intended direction of movement, but provides a firm grip on the rope when pulled in the opposite d ...
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